$1000 Budget… Woodworking from Scrap…

[LeonardY]

After my initial list for you, I started to think about when I was much younger. I lived and worked in SF. I didn't have a shop. I worked out of a tool box I had made in my apartment. When you live in a large building people really don't want to hear a table saw next door or any power tool for that matter. I was fortunate to be brought up and trained in woodworking using hand tools.

I built full size furniture and even a boat in my apartment. All I had was this.

Two Japanese saws. One for fast cutting. One for fine cutting.
Six Japanese chisels
A wooden mallet.
A drill.
Assorted clamps.
Screwdrivers
A hammer
Layout tools
4 Japanese planes
Sanding blocks

But most importantly I had time.

Over the years I have gotten by on a lot less. You can do a lot with a little.

Best of luck to you.

 

[csp]

I'm more than happy with my Wen track saw and a quality blade swapped onto it. It's no Festool (mainly because dust collection isn't good), but the cut quality is miles above any circular saw with a cutting guide.

I don't think this saw is sold by Wen any longer, but it's the exact same saw as a model sold by Grizzly and Shop Fox.

 

[tarbellb]

I imagine that you can order online HD from Hawaii?

Grab yourself the
_ Makita BO6050J (aka rotex killer)
_ Makita LS1019 (aka kapex killer)
_ Makita track saw system
_ Bosch dust collector
_ Empire levels
_ Laser line level
_ Estwing hammers
_ Makita big bore compressor or the Estwing E5GCOMP
_ Bosch palm sander
_ Dewalt jobsite table saw
_ Ridgid outfeed tables
_ Bora Centipede expanding table
_ any brand nailer set, seriously, any brand will shoot all day
_ and Makita 18v for any cordless


oh..... $1000

yikes

_ Makita 5007 corded circ saw
_ 72" level + 24" level + torpedo Empire
_ Dewalt TS
_ Ridgid vac
_ best deal in cordless at the time
_ best deal compressor and nailer set
_ cheapest miter saw that can be tuned
_ Estwing hammer
_ string line
_ build a work table

good luck

 

[jives]

After reading through all the responses, and thinking about what I would purchase, it it clear that experience plays a key role here. My TS -- Craftsman 113.*** model from the 90s -- does all the work, save for cutting down sheet goods and long stock, which is the realm of the Makita cordless CC and straight edge. The TS rips, cross cuts, dados, rabbets, trims edges well enough for edge glue jointing. And the set up can repeat multiple cuts with precision.

Making cabinets? Cut down the sheet goods with a CC and straight edge, set TS fence to rip and cross-cut multiple panels to the exact sizes, cut multiple face frames to exact size, cut exact miters, cut dado and rabbet joints. Assemble. Glue, Screw. Clamp. Done. Here is the tool list:
--Table saw (good jobsite or contractor) $500-800 new
--Makita cordless tool set (CC, drill, impact, oscillating, recip). Okay, choose your own brand. $400 new
--Corded sander. Other power tools would be router and jigsaw.
--Collection of squares, levels, clamps
--Collection of typical hand tools -- hammer, pliers, screwdrivers, chisels, etc.

All for about $1000-1500

Alternately, the track saw, sliding compound miter saw, and router could do the same thing. But consider the set up to repeat the same cuts over and over again. Jigs, clamps. . .ugggh. Are you making drawers? Inset door panels? Table saw, or table saw with router table extension would do the trick.

 

[mike93lx]

After reading through all the responses, and thinking about what I would purchase, it it clear that experience plays a key role here. My TS -- Craftsman 113.*** model from the 90s -- does all the work, save for cutting down sheet goods and long stock, which is the realm of the Makita cordless CC and straight edge. The TS rips, cross cuts, dados, rabbets, trims edges well enough for edge glue jointing. And the set up can repeat multiple cuts with precision.

Making cabinets? Cut down the sheet goods with a CC and straight edge, set TS fence to rip and cross-cut multiple panels to the exact sizes, cut multiple face frames to exact size, cut exact miters, cut dado and rabbet joints. Assemble. Glue, Screw. Clamp. Done. Here is the tool list:
--Table saw (good jobsite or contractor) $500-800 new
--Makita cordless tool set (CC, drill, impact, oscillating, recip). Okay, choose your own brand. $400 new
--Corded sander. Other power tools would be router and jigsaw.
--Collection of squares, levels, clamps
--Collection of typical hand tools -- hammer, pliers, screwdrivers, chisels, etc.

All for about $1000-1500

Alternately, the track saw, sliding compound miter saw, and router could do the same thing. But consider the set up to repeat the same cuts over and over again. Jigs, clamps. . .ugggh. Are you making drawers? Inset door panels? Table saw, or table saw with router table extension would do the trick.

Have you used a track saw? There is no setup. Measure, lay the track and cut. It is plenty easy to make the cuts repeatable.

Sure if I have a ton of the same cut to make, it's a table saw, but that isn't all that common for me

 

[Jswain]

Have you used a track saw? There is no setup. Measure, lay the track and cut. It is plenty easy to make the cuts repeatable.

Sure if I have a ton of the same cut to make, it's a table saw, but that isn't all that common for me

Well if you have 15 sides to cut and they are all 18" deep you're not going to get that all in one sheet. Table saw you set to rip 18" and you're good for the sides, bottoms, tops. If the doors are all the same width you set the fence once.

 

[mike93lx]

Well if you have 15 sides to cut and they are all 18" deep you're not going to get that all in one sheet. Table saw you set to rip 18" and you're good for the sides, bottoms, tops. If the doors are all the same width you set the fence once.

I get that. But acting like that can't easily be done with a track saw is silly.

If you can't measure, mark and align a track, building cabinets shouldn't be on the table.

 

[Jswain]

You said it yourself if you have a tonne of the same cuts to make you'd choose a table saw. Building cabinets would be a prime example of a tonne of the same cuts

And I am not acting like it can't be done easily with a track saw. Simply saying on a table saw it can be done easier.

Would you want a Mitre saw that returns to 90 degrees for every cut, or one that you have to very precisely set for 90 every cut? Same thing

 

[mike93lx]

You said it yourself if you have a tonne of the same cuts to make you'd choose a table saw. Building cabinets would be a prime example of a tonne of the same cuts

I disagree.

Drawers might be different, but also use much smaller pieces. Most of the pieces for a cabinet are much larger and I prefer to not handle full sheets on a table saw when I can avoid it.

But you do you, I'll do me. Ryan knows how to use woodworking tools in a way that works for him too

 

[Ryan]

In an Perfect world, I use a track saw for breaking down sheets and a table saw for final sizing and repeatability.

The way I work, track saws aren’t as accurate or convenient for accuracy and repeatability, but I think I could make it work…

 

[Ryan]

Add the bf/mft table… and that’s where a track saw really shines for me. Accurate, repeatable, etc…

 

[mike93lx]

Add the bf/mft table… and that’s where a track saw really shines for me. Accurate, repeatable, etc…

I'd love to get a mft. I scoffed, until I saw the light with a tracksaw. Might need to pull the trigger

 

[Ryan]

I'd love to get a mft. I scoffed, until I saw the light with a tracksaw. Might need to pull the trigger

Don't buy one... Build your own... cheaper, more versatile, and it's a ton of fun.

 

[mike93lx]

Don't buy one... Build your own... cheaper, more versatile, and it's a ton of fun.

Good point

 

[y'sguy]

mft? sorry? multi-function table or?

 

[Ryan]

mft? sorry? multi-function table or?

 

[jar944]

Frameless or face frame cabinets? Are the cabinets the primary purpose or is it a general house renovation with a bit of cabinet construction sprinkled in as well?

 

[Ryan]

Frameless or face frame cabinets? Are the cabinets the primary purpose or is it a general house renovation with a bit of cabinet construction sprinkled in as well?

Basically, with my limited woodworking skills... I've found that if I can build a square box, I can build/fix most of the stuff I run across... That was my thinking anyhow...

 

[jar944]

Basically, with my limited woodworking skills... I've found that if I can build a square box, I can build/fix most of the stuff I run across... That was my thinking anyhow...

I mean thats basically true, but a tool setup designed for frameless cabinets doesn't translate to faceframes or trim/millwork. (I wouldn't suggest a multi-tool just to build cabinets, but I would always suggest one for generic house remodeling.

That said.
Mitersaw
Jobsite tablesaw
Pocket hole jig
78" & 48" level
Drills/impact
Clamps
Small and med routers
6"/150mm ro sander with 5mm or 3/16 orbit

That is over the price limit already but I'd add the makita tracksaw assuming you can get the track shipped.. or pony up for the mafell with the spring steel track that rolls up $$$ its more than your entire budget but its compact.

 

[Los_Control]

Something we all need to remember is the location.
Was a recent post with a member from Hawaii building a work area ... consisted of 2 shipping containers with a roof over them for a carport type area.
Do not get me wrong, was first class construction ... I would use cheaper osb for roof plywood ... It was made of real plywood.
In the middle section was no concrete floor .... I imagine getting concrete in Hawaii is not easy.
Then we have the daily rain and the jungle, construction is done different in different parts of the world.

I understand moving to Belize, new homes do not have hvac because is steady 70 degree year around.

So trying to tell the original poster what tools to bring to Hawaii ... maybe a chainsaw is more important then a chop saw.

 

[Krang]

Too bad you are on a different island, I would say you can just borrow my woodworking stuff!

1) Portable jobsite table saw (Dewalt is terrific), make an outfeed table and set it up.

2) Skillsaw or the like (cordless, or corded, whatever)

3) Fastening tools (Screws or a nailgun, but you are only allowed to use STAINLESS nails and at least the epoxy coated screws, but stainless is preferred)

I once had a carpenter, 50+ years experience, say to me that he could build a house with a skillsaw and his hammer + tape. I believe that.

The way single wall construction works here you won't need to miter anything. All the window frames fit together with pockets, the doors are all joined with pockets, the siding is all flat overhangs... everything is a square - no compound cuts. To put this in perspective, when they were developing the majority of the areas here in the 50's and 60's they would construct an entire house in 2-3 days, so it needed to be as simple as possible.

That said, look out for a few things: Rot in the post and pier members of the house, rot in the facia (it supports more of the roof than you might think), and especially look out for multiple layers of roofing. I've seen homes that have had 4+ layers of 3tab shingle put down, that's 1000's of lbs the roof wasn't supposed to support, its dangerous.

 

[Krang]

Something we all need to remember is the location.
Was a recent post with a member from Hawaii building a work area ... consisted of 2 shipping containers with a roof over them for a carport type area.
Do not get me wrong, was first class construction ... I would use cheaper osb for roof plywood ... It was made of real plywood.
In the middle section was no concrete floor .... I imagine getting concrete in Hawaii is not easy.
Then we have the daily rain and the jungle, construction is done different in different parts of the world.

I understand moving to Belize, new homes do not have hvac because is steady 70 degree year around.

So trying to tell the original poster what tools to bring to Hawaii ... maybe a chainsaw is more important then a chop saw.

Sort of ironic that I would find this post right after you!

Regarding the OSB comment, think of Hawaii like this... If it looks like a sponge its going to absorb humidity and disintegrate. OSB will last 4 years... TOPS. Particle board lasts 1-2 years depending on thickness. Unsupported MDF will last a few months before it sags. Its beautiful, but its really a harsh environment for construction due to the constant humidity and heat.

 

[y'sguy]

okay, what I thought. I remember now your build.

 

[matt_i]

I saw quick clamps mentioned. I'm a fan of Jorgensen clamps, up to to the I-bar versions.

I'm no cabinetmaker but modified a few of existing to support a taller fridge.

I had to cut some rabbets so a dado blade was important.

I also found the Grex pinner very useful in certain situations although that would require an air compressor....

The GRK "cabinet screws" were very useful for hanging the cabinets, stud finder would be good.

 

[Los_Control]

Sort of ironic that I would find this post right after you!

Regarding the OSB comment, think of Hawaii like this... If it looks like a sponge its going to absorb humidity and disintegrate. OSB will last 4 years... TOPS. Particle board lasts 1-2 years depending on thickness. Unsupported MDF will last a few months before it sags. Its beautiful, but its really a harsh environment for construction due to the constant humidity and heat.

And I said ...
" I imagine getting concrete in Hawaii is not easy.
Then we have the daily rain and the jungle, construction is done different in different parts of the world."

While my construction experience is here on the main land, Amazing how much it differs from state to state ... I was born in Tacoma WA and we bury water lines & foundations 32"
I then had a habit of running off to Las Vegas for work if Tacoma was dry on jobs. Vegas the water lines were just under the dirt ... sometimes less then 12"

We get into the tornado belt, most all new houses have a safe room to withstand a tornado.
Go to North Dakota ... a whole new deal.

So when going to Hawaii to build, How many here really have experience building in that atmosphere and what tools needed

 

[tjpavlov]

I have a Festool track saw and love it. But I've also built a lot of cabinets with just a circular saw and a Kreg Rip-Cut. The track saw may be more accurate, but the Rip-Cut is more repeatable. I'm not worried if all my cabinets are a 1/16 of an inch too deep so long as the entire run is the same.

 

[tarbellb]

Festool track saw x $1000 budget = no chance

 

[Ryan]

If I go track saw, I’ll be going with makita.

 

[Ryan]

So I bought the ****** M18 drill/driver set at HD for $260… then, got a deal on a reconditioned Makita track saw saw for $200 shipped to the island. I was able to bring my Bosch colt router plus a router sled for festool/makita tracks that I 3D printed. I think I’m gonna add a ****** miter saw to that and then just get to work.

 

[Krang]

All that sounds nicely rounded. You are going to need a compressor and a finish gun at the very least, in addition to what you already listed.

After that you should be set!

 

[GirchyGirchy]

Someone needs their member title changed to "****** Tool."

 

[quadrcr87]

If you are doing any kind of trim I would definitely go for a miter saw. That combined with a track saw or circular saw and guide can take care of most house projects.

 

[hilld]

I think that’s what makes these posts so interesting. Some guys don’t see the value in a track saw and others, like me, can’t imagine working without one. Neither of us is wrong.

If I had to pick a track or table saw, the track saw wins out. So much less storage space and more versatile in my mind. It was painful buying the 9' Festool track, but makes ripping that plywood so much easier.

Ryan, you said you have to ship everything, don't any of the Festool dealers ship to HI at no additional charge?

 

[jar944]

So I bought the ****** M18 drill/driver set at HD for $260… then, got a deal on a reconditioned Makita track saw saw for $200 shipped to the island. I was able to bring my Bosch colt router plus a router sled for festool/makita tracks that I 3D printed. I think I’m gonna add a ****** miter saw to that and then just get to work.

Go a step above ******. A ****** miter saw is worse than not having a saw. Trying to miter trim with a saw that can't make a accurate cut will make you pull your hair out and eventually

If you are using it for a deck or framing a house then ****** is fine

 

[Ryan]

Go a step above ******. A ****** miter saw is worse than not having a saw. Trying to miter trim with a saw that can't make a accurate cut will make you pull your hair out and eventually

If you are using it for a deck or framing a house then ****** is fine

Any suggestions? Due to the track saw, I don't need a sliding miter saw... so that should help in the accuracy department.

Because of my BF/MFT at home, I've never had a need for a miter saw... and so I have very little experience with them.

 

[tjpavlov]

I agree on the miter saw. I have a Sears Craftsman that is a hateful thing. No matter how much I work at it, it will never be dead on square. As you tighten the saw down it actually moves the miter two or three degrees. I think that I would look for a Metabo for a cheap saw.

Can you share some details on the 3d printed router sled?

Have you thought about some sort of dust extractor? Sometimes you can find good deals on a Flex or a Fein-branded one. Even a shop vac would be better than nothing.

 

[jar944]

Any suggestions? Due to the track saw, I don't need a sliding miter saw... so that should help in the accuracy department.

Because of my BF/MFT at home, I've never had a need for a miter saw... and so I have very little experience with them.

The dewalt dw716 is the gold standard for 12" contractor chop saws.

I've had really good luck with the hitachi's as well.
The c12fdh specifically. They seem to have increased in price as they were sub $200 before.

 

[Ryan]

Well… got a deal on island… Father’s Day sale! $173 for the miter saw and $79 for a pair of pretty decent saw horses…

 

[tyyost]

Well done, those DeWalt single bevel saws are good ones, as accurate as needed and simple enough to do most jobs with limited fiddling. The sawhorses look beefy too, I have a set of folding Kobalt ones, while not my favorite, they are tough and sturdy.

 

[Ryan]

Well done, those DeWalt single bevel saws are good ones, as accurate as needed and simple enough to do most jobs with limited fiddling. The sawhorses look beefy too, I have a set of folding Kobalt ones, while not my favorite, they are tough and sturdy.

The ones I got are too heavy… but for the price and compact size, I can’t complain.

The saw is fantastic so far.