1000Sq Ft Home- Bathrm

[karoc]

Well I been making some progress on bathrm itself. I was thinking about knee wall but decided to just go up 8’ and about 30” out. I’m hoping this will keep water inside shower so won’t need glass door. Using all GRK screws and some Timber screws to help keep this wall level, plum and where won’t flex much if any. I believe once get Durock on both sides using panel adhesive and screws will make it stronger. I went ahead and use 3/8 anchors on bottom plate which I already had, no Tapcons this time. After that I started on Schluter drain flange which I’m now at 3/4-1” mark above slab. And I be able to level it once I get ready to do that. Ive decided to tackle the drain myself building bed just around flange with help of latex admix. (guys special thanks to yall for putting up will all my questions, providing pics, I now have good game plan)

I also started painting oil base primer on T1-11 siding doing grooves first. Dang it absorbs paint. Bathrm has 10’ ceilings which means I had to add about 12” pieces at top. As suggested by GJ I put 1x4 blocking between studs to help hold seams together instead of using Z flashing.Can’t tell there’s a seam unless you look hard at it. On each edge of siding I put thick coat paint to help hold edges together kinda like glue. Next trip going try float out edges on ceiling so that get it as flat as possible. Maybe just be able prime/paint without any texture.
I confess, I never realize that bathrooms can be so expensiveGood grief it’s only about 5’x11’
Tks so much for y’all’s input

 

[dcg9381]

Looks like you're doing a good job and saving yourself some money. Two suggestions:
1) You need to slope that plate, I assume it's going to get tile or some other surface on it eventually, you want 2 degrees or so of slope to make sure that any water splashed on it is routed back to the pan area. I see what appears to be shims, so you might already be doing that.



Not a lot of room to do insets that hold soap and bottles, etc. I handed this by building shelves in the corner. Same deal, slope them 2 degrees, I glassed them in... My shower builds are with a fiberglass hand-laid pan, then I leak test it for a few days.

 

[Danno1]

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Not sure I would put T1-11 in a bathroom...

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[karoc]

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Not sure I would put T1-11 in a bathroom...

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It’s what I wanted, but no one else thinks like me If I had do over I should have went with smooth texture
Like your thinking, thanks for reminder dcg9381. Love that tile and size, looking good.

 

[dcg9381]

Not sure I would put T1-11 in a bathroom...

To each his or her own, but sure looks like you can make it work to me... If it's a moisture thing, drywall seems to survive in baths...

Like your thinking, thanks for reminder dcg9381. Love that tile and size, looking good.

If you think I'm capable of picking out the aesthetics, you're sorely mistaken.. The wall tile was actually pretty inexpensive.

One thing I did right: Epoxy grout. Do it once and be done...


What floor pan / membrane system are you going to use?

 

[duneslider]

I'm not saying there is anything wrong with epoxy grout but if the grout in your shower is getting stained you have bigger problems...
Epoxy grout won't last any longer than any other grout.

T1-11 is exterior rated, should last fine, the rough surface isn't easy to clean.

You will be fine not sloping the wood under your curb. I assume you are doing the whole kerdi install. It will all be waterproof and just have a slight slope on the tile when you install that and you will be fine. You could shim the drywall when you install that on top of the curb.

Unless you have very poor water pressure you will get water spray going out that door. May or may not be enough to be an issue but maybe plan on a rug or towel out there to catch it then hang it to dry when you are done. I also find open showers to be significantly colder, I like that but my wife very much doesn't like that. I could shower outside in the winter.