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110' x 26' Forclosure

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CreteCoater

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I did however with no heat and high moisture it was beginning to surface rust so I gave it the wire brush to be painted again.

I am having someone bend me up a furnace surround (I have the original as a template) so I can run a duct the length of the shop.
 
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CreteCoater

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Found some future wall art in the one upstairs room. I haven't thoroughly explored that room yet so it's hard to tell what else is in there. Mostly car manuals and bookkeeping records from Dunlaps.
 

sanatarium

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I have been following this thread for a while now, just wanted to say, my uncle who lives in Clearfield, PA recognized your project, and was thrilled to take a look at this build log! Keep up the great work! You really scored.
 
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CreteCoater

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I have been following this thread for a while now, just wanted to say, my uncle who lives in Clearfield, PA recognized your project, and was thrilled to take a look at this build log! Keep up the great work! You really scored.
That's pretty cool, glad he enjoyed it. Perhaps I know him?
 

YJ4000

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PULASKI NY
Looking good. I like the look of the metal ceiling. That should make nice and bright. I'm thinking of using the same.

Ryan
 
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CreteCoater

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Looking good. I like the look of the metal ceiling. That should make nice and bright. I'm thinking of using the same.

Ryan
I'm liking the look of it too. It's not for everyone but I think it is a good fit for this building.

The guys ran a few pieces of J shy and will be wrapped up tomorrow. I picked up 2 more LED high bays for the lower ceiling. 4 should give me enough general lighting and I can add on in areas I need more.

I got the motion sensors because I'm too lazy to flip a switch.

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CreteCoater

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Just curious - how are you going to handle the top floor access at the top of the steps? It looks like the top quarter of the door is cut off.
That is a good question and one that I'm not sure on the answer yet. Complicating things more is the fact that underneath that stairwell (accessed on the right) is the door and stairs to the basement.

A spiral staircase is one idea, going through the floor of the upstairs, but limits the size of things I can take up there.

I need someone smarter than I am to take a look at it ;)
 

Charles (in GA)

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Whats going to happen with the eaves? going to rent a manlift and finish them off/close them in? Really needs to happen I'm sure.

Also wondering why on the angled end it was't bricked up to match the elevation (other than the cost involved) Might that happen in the future?

Great work and hope to see it continue to improve.
 
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CreteCoater

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Whats going to happen with the eaves? going to rent a manlift and finish them off/close them in? Really needs to happen I'm sure.

Also wondering why on the angled end it was't bricked up to match the elevation (other than the cost involved) Might that happen in the future?

Great work and hope to see it continue to improve.
Eaves will be done when time and weather permits. Hopefully sooner than later as the pigeons are making a hotel out of them.

The angled wall still may be bricked at some point in time as budget permits.
 
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CreteCoater

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Ceiling is complete and I mounted the 4 LEDs. I hooked one up temporarily to a cord and I am pretty happy with it so far. I can't wait to see all 4 lit.

The neighbor is an electrician and will be running the permanent wiring in metal conduit...along with my clock ;)
 

CNGsaves

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Just curious - how are you going to handle the top floor access at the top of the steps? It looks like the top quarter of the door is cut off.

That is a good question and one that I'm not sure on the answer yet. Complicating things more is the fact that underneath that stairwell (accessed on the right) is the door and stairs to the basement.

A spiral staircase is one idea, going through the floor of the upstairs, but limits the size of things I can take up there.

I need someone smarter than I am to take a look at it.

Could those last couple trusses be modified to go up and over a doorway "headroom" cut-a-way opening?? Maybe run a steel square post vertically up the edge of upper stairs to ceiling as an anchor point??

Worst case, cut 2 trusses, and build steel frame that would hug roof (maybe 6 inch clearance) with wall on left and vertical post on right as structure?? Spray foam insulation directly on steel roof just for that little section??

/ .02 idea for top of stairs problem
 
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CreteCoater

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Could those last couple trusses be modified to go up and over a doorway "headroom" cut-a-way opening?? Maybe run a steel square post vertically up the edge of upper stairs to ceiling as an anchor point??

Worst case, cut 2 trusses, and build steel frame that would hug roof (maybe 6 inch clearance) with wall on left and vertical post on right as structure?? Spray foam insulation directly on steel roof just for that little section??

/ .02 idea for top of stairs problem
That idea has crossed my mind and is similar to the way the old roof was framed. Since I'm working from back to front I have 95 feet yet to go to figure something out haha.
 
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CreteCoater

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How long does a ton of heat last after you get it to the bin? Are we talking take ing the edge off the cold or shorts and tee shirt attire?
That's what we are about to find out. Without the ceiling I was firing it mainly just to stand next to it to keep warm.

The coal I was burning was junk left from the previous owner in the basement. It's more fines than anything and is a bear to burn. I got some good screened nut deep mine coal that should get er rippin.
 
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CreteCoater

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Just waiting on the sparky to do the permanent wiring of lights & clock. The LED's will be on a motion sensor for general lighting (they are pretty dang bright by themselves). I will be adding some T-5s to a switch for areas over benches or work areas.

In other news......the new Pittsburgh coal is burning nicely.....

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Heating guys are coming Friday to measure for a furnace surround & blower and calculate a duct run. Once we actually get this hot air moving it should help quite a bit......once I get rid of some of the drafts.

I picked up 11 5' × 2' windows made of 12" glass block in aluminum frames. They are heavy bastards but only paid $100 for the lot. That will be the next project.
 

NUTTSGT

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Heating guys are coming Friday to measure for a furnace surround & blower and calculate a duct run. Once we actually get this hot air moving it should help quite a bit......once I get rid of some of the drafts.

Can you take a bunch pics of that ? I'd really be interested in what/how they do it. Although, I think mine might be coming to it's end of life.
 
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CreteCoater

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Can you take a bunch pics of that ? I'd really be interested in what/how they do it. Although, I think mine might be coming to it's end of life.
Sure will. When I bought it it came with the sheet metal surround and control for the auto draft but was quite rusty and ratty looking.

The guys told me that they can put a sensor in the bonnet to turn on and blow heat at a certain temperature. I'm not too concerned with an actual thermostat but the blower coming on and off by itself would be nice.

What is wrong with yours? It looks like a tank like mine. The new ones are **** compared to ours.
 

NUTTSGT

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Sure will. When I bought it it came with the sheet metal surround and control for the auto draft but was quite rusty and ratty looking.

The guys told me that they can put a sensor in the bonnet to turn on and blow heat at a certain temperature. I'm not too concerned with an actual thermostat but the blower coming on and off by itself would be nice.

What is wrong with yours? It looks like a tank like mine. The new ones are **** compared to ours.

I only have fire brick up so far and it appears that at one time, it got to hot and I do have some warped onthe backside.

It's also leaking a little bit when cold between the stove and heat tank where they bolt together. That could probably be taken apart and sealed up.

When you look inside, the piece that bolts for the piece mentioned above, it appears to be coming apart, like expanding rot. As I have tried to tighten up a few of the bolts, they seem to spin. The problem with this is the heads are square and they are inset into that piece.

There's also a crack in the face piece which doesn't appear to create a problem, I think it's more of a decorative piece.

Then there is a cover (looks like a outlet blank cover) which has been on it for for who knows how long (before me) that is warped. It used to let a little smoke out ocassionaly but a put a bead of copper rtv around it. It's not in contact with the flames, just heat. That I think is an easy fix, I'll just weld it shut in the off season.

I just need to get it apart and cleaned up and see what I can do. I need to do it in the off season when I don't need it but when that time comes, I tend to forget about it.
 

almac

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Kelowna, BC CANADA
while new garage builds are great, the restoration of an old shop is FANTASTIC! :thumbup: :bounce:
that brick wall just screams for a Texaco sign! :D

I can't believe I didn't see this thread before.
nice job! :thumbup:
 

Norcal

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For lack of anything productive today, unless you want pics of windows I hung plastic over, here is the completed service awaiting inspection.

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk

Your inspectors are quite lenient to allow so much exposed SE cable inside the building, there is no overcurrent protection between the PoCo transformer secondary & the panel main.
 
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