sberry
Banned
I have a walk in cooler most don't have but I cant think of another thing I own besides a dryer and range has 4 wire feed to it.
120/240 appliances
- Thread starter sberry
- Start date
canbug
Well-known member
A/C unit, hot tub, if you are in the country your water well pump. Most loads that are over 20 amps are possibility using 240Volt. That would be your 4 wire.
Tim.
Tim.
Stuart in MN
Well-known member
The hot tub may require 120/240vac, but an A/C and a well pump are going to be 240vac only.
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
With all of the electronic controls now a days, the only thing that actually runs on 120V AC on those appliances is the LIGHT BULB !
How do you figure? lol
Brian_WK
Well-known member
Most walk-in coolers now have a 120v gfci circuit ran to the inside and a 240v circuit ran to the condensing unit.
Some commercial reach in freezers do as well, others have a transformer for the electronics. Same goes for alot of commercial equipment that requires large heat or cooling loads if you are lucky enough to have it in your home. I once saw a water heater that had a digital lcd screen on it im assuming that had a neutral but never tore into it.
My old dryer was the same way was a 3 wire cord no electronics just buttons and a timer never bothered to look at how they did the light bulb. New drier needed a 4 wire. Checked it out in the wiring diagram only the light bulb and the control board needed 120v (which was again reduced lower and to dc) I removed the light bulb (it was bright enough for me in my laundry room anyways)and put in a transformer to reduce from 240v to 120v.
Problem solved only needed a 3 prong plug then.
Brian
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Brian_WK
Well-known member
My oven has a fan for the convection side that runs on 120v must have been a deal on them instead of the 240v when they were manufacturing them.
Brian
nh_yota
Well-known member
Submersible well pumps run on 240 and they don't use a neutral but they still require 3 conductor (or 4 conductor with ground) cable from the control box out to the pump. The start capacitor is in the controller and not the pump, so the cable has 3 conductors for start/run/common.
wyliesdiesels
Well-known member
Only the hot tub will need a neutral.
Have u ever taken apart a dryer? The motor in many of them is 120v.
My dryer is less than 10yrs old and has that setup.
Beat me to it!
Yes from the control box for a well but that's a different animal than a common feed, The one I forgot about was the hot tub, I knew there was something else but couldn't remember. No garage tools though? I got a lot of stuff but cant think of a single place a guy would benefit from capping an extra wire.
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In my own shop the only machine that could use a neutral is a 1976 Rockwell 20" wood/ metal bandsaw, because a extra blade welder is 120 volts. In my opinion, this is a rare situation, because a control transformer takes care of 120 volt power for the starter & light, existing welder is 240V it just does not work...
Other then hot tubs, clothes dryers, ranges/ cooking equipment it's wasting money to run a unneeded neutral.
Other then hot tubs, clothes dryers, ranges/ cooking equipment it's wasting money to run a unneeded neutral.
Alchymist
Well-known member
My wood shaper has either 120 or 240 motor option, and I run it on 240. Unfortunately the power feeder is 120 volts. Only options are to convert back to 120 on the main motor, add a step down transformer for the feeder, or run feeder from a separate 120 outlet.
wyliesdiesels
Well-known member
Whats the FLC?
Alchymist
Well-known member
Spec sheet says 12.5 @120V for shaper, and 1.2 for feeder. Would be almost 14 on 120 volts, doable on a 20 amp circuit I guess. However, a transformer for the feeder would bring the 240 Volt draw to just under 7 amps. Have some transformers salted away, just never got around to doing anything about it.
