There seem to be 2 main kinds.
The digital one seems to test CCA, etc.
The other kind has heat vents and does a load test.
Do you need both kinds?
Any tips on using a tool like this?
At what % do you replace a car battery ?
12v car battery tester vs. load tester?
- Thread starter Jacobson
- Start date
There seem to be 2 main kinds.
The digital one seems to test CCA, etc.
The other kind has heat vents and does a load test.
Do you need both kinds?
Any tips on using a tool like this?
At what % do you replace a car battery ?
kelpaso1
MEMBER EMERITUS
The old fashion load tester with coils in it is what I use. Those digital testers do not put a proper load on the batt and IMO are inaccurate.
When it comes to load testing, get your self a gold old fashion tester. the digital are not going to give the best accuracy as these
Many of the older batt load tester designs had/have a maximum load test rating of only 500 cca. This is nowhere near high enough for most vehicles of the last 20-25 years. The best thing is to go with a minimum of 750 cca or, better yet, 1000 cca. Unfortunately, such testers are not at all cheap. This is why the algorithm load testers are gaining popularity.
engineer2
Well-known member
My cheap one will call a good battery good, and a bad battery bad. In between is where it is iffy.
Best to check the water levels, put on a slow charger, and re-test.
Best to check the water levels, put on a slow charger, and re-test.
You should to do the above before you do any load testing.
A tester that will handle 1000cca is about $70.
engineer2
Well-known member
Very true. Basic maintenance first. But in reality I grab the tester first.
Anything other than good gets a maintenance check.
If in doubt, I use my load tester.
I'm talking carbon pile testers.
So am I.
Wrench97
Well-known member
The electronic ones with printers allow you to sell more batteries........................................
Used correctly the ones with the heat vents are all you need, the electronic ones are often inaccurate and call failing batteries good.
Used correctly the ones with the heat vents are all you need, the electronic ones are often inaccurate and call failing batteries good.
engineer2
Well-known member
I use my $250 (used) load tester.
mrjaw14
Well-known member
the newer ones don't load test. They are a conductance tester. I have heard that for starting batteries some are ok, but for deep cycle or marine batteries they don't work well. I'm looking for a good battery tester myself and am having a hard time deciding what to get.
ptgarcia
Well-known member
$38 for Schumacher BT-100. Is this a decent tester?
engineer2
Well-known member
People seem to like the Midtronics Testers, but I have no experience with them.
What the devil? Check water levels?
Batteries have been sealed for decades!
Tally ho lads!
Wrench97
Well-known member
Yes it a decent tester in that style the only weak part is the switch if held on too long but all of them have pretty much gone to that style rocker switch.
Wrench97
Well-known member
They can still go low from a overcharge condition, refilling will buy some more time.
Post a link. A cheap 1,000 amp is $150, better ones are $500, good ones are $1,000+ for the ones I find.
See a repeat in the near future of the sealed vs “serviceable” vs AGM battery thread.
5ubtle
Well-known member
$50 on clearance.
https://www.harborfreight.com/500-amp-carbon-pile-load-tester-91129.html
A battery rated at 1000cca is tested at 500 amps.
ddawg16
Well-known member
Really guys?
There is no need for a 'tester'.
With the battery in the car....hook up a decent volt meter....measure the voltage.
While measuring the voltage....have someone crank the engine.
If the voltage drops below 10 volts or so...it's ether not proper charged or the battery is shot.
How F'ing hard can that be?
There is no need for a 'tester'.
With the battery in the car....hook up a decent volt meter....measure the voltage.
While measuring the voltage....have someone crank the engine.
If the voltage drops below 10 volts or so...it's ether not proper charged or the battery is shot.
How F'ing hard can that be?
5ubtle
Well-known member
Why even measure the voltage? If the engine doesn't start ... it's either not proper charged or the battery is shot.
I often work on setups that have 2 or 3 batteries and usually don't have a helper available.
Tester is handy to see which battery is bad.
Or it's bad cables, bad connection, weak starter, etc.
Just bought one a couple weeks ago. Was ~$70
Brand and model? Internet link? Someone else might want to get in on the good deal!
I just bought a Ferrari the other day for $100, but I can't prove it!
engineer2
Well-known member
Correct on both! It all still works, but parts are unobtanium.
The built-in battery load test works great.
Still useful on today's cars for starter, battery, alternator tests, DVOM, oscilloscope, 4 gas emissions analyzer, and maybe a few other tests. Not much need for 'big box' analyzers after OBDII came out. Perfect for old muscle cars though.
Wrench97
Well-known member
Or the starter is bad.....................................
Wrench97
Well-known member
I still remember the Snappy salesman trying to sell us one the hook line was how many more batteries and alternators we could sell if we had a print out on paper to give the
engineer2
Well-known member
The guy who I bought mine from said he made good money off of it. The printout would sell stuff.