12'x16' Deck build

[isuhunter]

Greetings everyone! We are in the process of starting to plan out a new deck. Currently we have a huge deck (4 levels) that is rotting away and we really don't use it. It is built around an ash tree and the ash borer has moved into our area.

Our plans for a new deck are 12x16' single level and a stair case to get down. 16' Will put us at the edge of the kitchen sink window you see in the photo. Not exactly sure how to run the stairs yet. I've been looking through the AWC Design for Code 6 document to determine my build/design.

So far I have drawn out the attachment. I'd like to minimize the number of posts and I like the idea of 45* braces on the posts to the beam. Beams and Joists are all 2x10'. The current walk/step out of the house is 8'2" above the concrete. We will likely deck it with a trex product.

Open to all thoughts and have you looked ats. Sketchup is such a fun app.

- Where would you place the steps?
- Would you use 12" centered 2x8 or 16" centered 2x10"?

 

[bassJAM]

I know it was common practice forever, but I'd recommend against notching your posts to support the beam (if that's what you've shown, kind of hard to tell). The cut weakens the post, and creates a pocket of sorts to hold moisture. I've used Simpson Strong tie post-to-beam connectors on a couple decks and really like them.

There's a nice series on youtube from Fine Homebuilding on decks if you haven't already seen it.

 

[nafterclifen]

Here is the Trex install guide - https://documents.trex.com/is/content/Trex/full-trex-installation-guide-2019pdf.pdf

Lots of info and detail in there. You'll have to read it to confirm but as far as I know, joists should be 16" OC when decking is perpendicular to joists and 12" OC when decking is NOT perpendicular (e.g. chevron pattern).

 

[nafterclifen]

Also, checkout Lowe's Deck Designer web software if you want to mess around with designs and see something visually. Trex is one of the brands in their system so you can choose from all of the colors. You have to register for an account but it's free. Only thing is - it's going away on June 30th and is being replaced by Lowe’s Deck Designer Pro.

 

[isuhunter]

I know it was common practice forever, but I'd recommend against notching your posts to support the beam (if that's what you've shown, kind of hard to tell). The cut weakens the post, and creates a pocket of sorts to hold moisture. I've used Simpson Strong tie post-to-beam connectors on a couple decks and really like them.

There's a nice series on youtube from Fine Homebuilding on decks if you haven't already seen it.

I watched a couple yesterday and plan to watch some more!

 

[Falcon67]

I just spent 5 minutes with the Lowes thing - fail. I'll be looking at this one later: https://www.timbertech.com/design/deck-designer/

 

[isuhunter]

I just spent 5 minutes with the Lowes thing - fail. I'll be looking at this one later: https://www.timbertech.com/design/deck-designer/

Thats how I felt with all the different tools. I went back to sketchup

 

[isuhunter]

Need some recommendations on a couple things as I near my build:

Best blade for mitre saw blade Trex material? - Diablo? Makita?

I have a makita mitre saw and I need a stand for it. The ryobi stand leaves the saw tilted to the rear.

 

[Jackfre]

Are you taking the trees down? What is the N/S orientation of the deck

 

[ItsNemo]

I used the branded trex blade from freud, worked very well, clean cuts.

Just do 12" OC for any composite decking, even if perpendicular allows for 16" OC. The lumber cost for a few extra 2x10's is nothing but the decking will feel far better.

Also, I don't like your beam design, this is the way to do it:

 

[isuhunter]

I used the branded trex blade from freud, worked very well, clean cuts.

Just do 12" OC for any composite decking, even if perpendicular allows for 16" OC. The lumber cost for a few extra 2x10's is nothing but the decking will feel far better.

Also, I don't like your beam design, this is the way to do it:

ItsNemo- appreciate the reply. On your post to beam connections do the outside "strap" pieces remain in place? I like the look of it!

I'm laying out a new design in sketchup now. I'll build it with 12" OC

 

[ItsNemo]

ItsNemo- appreciate the reply. On your post to beam connections do the outside "strap" pieces remain in place? I like the look of it!

I'm laying out a new design in sketchup now. I'll build it with 12" OC

Yes, those outside pieces of the post/beam connection remained in place. They are bolted through with several 1/2" galvanized carriage bolts each, 4 for most, but 6 in the middle two posts where the two pieces of beam meet. The beams are three 2x10's with 1/2" plywood sandwiched between the layers to get it out to 5.5 inches thick like the posts. All the layers are glued with PL Premium and nailed on 12" centers. You'll notice a gap in the plywood in each beam in the pic below when they're sitting on the ground...once hoisted in place, I slotted in additional chunks of plywood and using extra long nails, nailed them in to "join" the beams together a bit better.

The structure is as solid as can be, it's a bit overkill even (e.g. I used hurricane ties on all the joists and doubled up a couple joists that didn't need to be), but there's no bounce or wobbliness whatsoever. The neighbours had the builder do theirs and most complained that they felt a little sway in it, so I made sure to build mine better. The inspectors were quite impressed with the construction and had zero deficiencies

Couple more pics:

I also did trex decking:

 

[nadogail]

The pictures are attractive. Have the plans been approved by the local authority having jurisdiction?

 

[oldcarpenter]

The sandwiched plywood in your beams will rot away pretty fast.


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[manwithtools]

The sandwiched plywood in your beams will rot away pretty fast.


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I suspect it's treated. With the rest of the workmanship, I doubt he missed that little detail...

 

[manwithtools]

Yes, those outside pieces of the post/beam connection remained in place. They are bolted through with several 1/2" galvanized carriage bolts each, 4 for most, but 6 in the middle two posts where the two pieces of beam meet. The beams are three 2x10's with 1/2" plywood sandwiched between the layers to get it out to 5.5 inches thick like the posts. All the layers are glued with PL Premium and nailed on 12" centers. You'll notice a gap in the plywood in each beam in the pic below when they're sitting on the ground...once hoisted in place, I slotted in additional chunks of plywood and using extra long nails, nailed them in to "join" the beams together a bit better.

The structure is as solid as can be, it's a bit overkill even (e.g. I used hurricane ties on all the joists and doubled up a couple joists that didn't need to be), but there's no bounce or wobbliness whatsoever. The neighbours had the builder do theirs and most complained that they felt a little sway in it, so I made sure to build mine better. The inspectors were quite impressed with the construction and had zero deficiencies

Nice work, I'm curious how you connected the pergola posts to the deck framing to prevent the pergola from racking?

 

[ItsNemo]

The sandwiched plywood in your beams will rot away pretty fast.


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It is pressure treated plywood, there's self sealing joist tape on the top of the beam to keep water out from between the layers, and I treated with end cut preservative all the cut ends.

Nice work, I'm curious how you connected the pergola posts to the deck framing to prevent the pergola from racking?

Just blocking between the joists to give me multiple angles to screw from and big carriage bolts to secure it to the joists. It's also part of the railing which helped a lot. It is surprisingly solid and doesn't sway whatsoever.

And you were right, I didn't miss that detail on the plywood in the beam

 

[isuhunter]

Yes, those outside pieces of the post/beam connection remained in place. They are bolted through with several 1/2" galvanized carriage bolts each, 4 for most, but 6 in the middle two posts where the two pieces of beam meet. The beams are three 2x10's with 1/2" plywood sandwiched between the layers to get it out to 5.5 inches thick like the posts. All the layers are glued with PL Premium and nailed on 12" centers. You'll notice a gap in the plywood in each beam in the pic below when they're sitting on the ground...once hoisted in place, I slotted in additional chunks of plywood and using extra long nails, nailed them in to "join" the beams together a bit better.

The structure is as solid as can be, it's a bit overkill even (e.g. I used hurricane ties on all the joists and doubled up a couple joists that didn't need to be), but there's no bounce or wobbliness whatsoever. The neighbours had the builder do theirs and most complained that they felt a little sway in it, so I made sure to build mine better. The inspectors were quite impressed with the construction and had zero deficiencies

ItsNemo - thanks for your inspiration

Did you use Cedartone treated?

Here are my thoughts. I cant push my posts in any further because of the lay of the landscape. There will be a retaining wall on the "inside" of the deck posts. Also there will be stairs coming down along the main deck. This sketchup is at 16" centers, I'll redo it tomorrow at 12" centers

 

[isuhunter]

Here is the updated drawing

 

[ludakris04]

I used a cheap Avanti 24t ripping blade and had zero problems.

 

[isuhunter]

Things finally started happening...due to a sick child we stayed home for Easter and poured footings.











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