12x24 lawn shed

[CWCW]

New here guys so forgive me if I am in the wrong area for this question.
Building a 12x24 Lawn shed/wood working shed soon. Shed will sit on 5 4x4 wood skids at 24ft long set 3ft apart across the width of the shed. Each skid will sit on 5 concrete blocks set at 6ft apart.

with that being said, can I affectively use a 2x4 floor frame/joists on 12 inch centers and it be structurally secure? I am going to use 3/4 inch ply for floor sheathing.

I was hoping to use PT 2x4s instead of PT 2x6's for three reasons.
-extra cost of PT 2x6's
-it will just add that much more height so my lawn mower ramp will be even bigger
-it will make my walls 2 more inches shorter. I want to be able to take a 8ft sheet of siding and go from under the overhang down to cover most of the 4x4 skids and just leave concrete blocks showing.

No code, I live in the sticks. Am I unrealistic for wanting to use 2x4s on 12 centers if I have a base of wood skids and blocks like that? I would think it would have way more than enough points of support but I could be wrong.

 

[Jlbc212]

You don't list in your profile where you live. A 12 x 24 shed is a good size structure, more like a single car garage than a shed. If you live in an area that gets cold and there's a potential for frost in the ground, you could have problems with the frost racking the shed. But, to answer your question, 2x4's are not usually used as floor joists. You have the advantage of living out in the sticks so you can do whatever you want. If you want to keep the structure low, you might want to consider constructing it as a pole building and use the ground as your floor.

 

[tx_mike]

cant say one way or the other, but i am planning out a 8x12 with 2x4 floor framing on 12" centers. will have 2 skids under it and on blocks.

 

[Catadj78]

Frame 2x6 pt on 16" centers.

Bring the sheathing 1.5" below floor elevation.

 

[Catadj78]

 

[bobemmerich]

I built my last "garage" as you describe, sort-of...16x20
I used a 4x4 frame 30" o.c. on a combination of blocks, cinder blocks and dug piers(where I thought it would be necessary for weight load) and laid 2x6 flat across them @18" o.c.then covered it in 3/4 plywood. It's been 12 years and my 65 Mustang hasn't fallen through yet. I actually think I over engineered it.
I think you'll be fine. I would suggest if using 2x4 for floor, set the 4x4's closer together.

 

[Vegaman_Dan]

Foundations and floors are an area you never want to skimp on. Nobody ever said, "Gee, I wish I had used smaller lumber for the floor." Much more often you'll be deal with a sagging or soft floor and wish you had gone bigger.

2x6's, 16" center. There's a reason why this is code in many areas.

 

[pattenp]

I think the 6ft span on the 4X4 skids is too much. I'd do 7 blocks to get the span down to 4ft.

 

[CWCW]

thanks for the input guys, maybe I will go 2x6x12s on 16 centers, and I can always use more concrete blocks as someone stated. That is a very inexpensive addition of support.

To answer a few of your points:
I didn't want to use the ground as my floor so the pole barn method wont work for me. This will be a beginner "shed/ garage" until I can get the money saved for a 30x40 concrete floor metal building. This is just a starter that will become mainly a lawn mower and lawn tool shed some day. Just built a new house and need the space to keep all my tools and use them so I am not building projects on my back porch. Tired of looking at circular saws and drills laying out on the work table on the back porch from working on building storage attic boxes, lol.

I live in North Texas about 20 min south of Fort Worth so the ground freezing isn't an issue around here.

 

[CWCW]

Frame 2x6 pt on 16" centers.

Bring the sheathing 1.5" below floor elevation.

When you say bring the sheathing 1.5" below floor elevation, what do you mean by floor elevation?

 

[Catadj78]

When you say bring the sheathing 1.5" below floor elevation, what do you mean by floor elevation?

The picture I posted is mine I finished the other day. Look at the bottom metal trim in relationto bottom of door. It is 1 1/2" below top of floor plywood

You do this so that the water drains away ffrom the floor.

If I had to do it over again I would have used 4x4s to anchor it down vs sitting on blocks. I thought about it before hand thinking I may need to move it in the future. Afterwards I figuredk could have still mmoved it if I wanted. I was in a hurry to start and finish it as it was talking away from my shop build time.

I can post more pictures of the framing and the progress if it will help you out. I built the entire thing by myself in about 30hrs I think. We had a lot of rain and other life things that kept me from working on it everyday. About a 2 week span though. I figured I got about 1800 in it

 

[Doug B]

Frame 2x6 pt on 16" centers.

Bring the sheathing 1.5" below floor elevation.

I saw your pic,and that's a nice looking building,but I'm curious why you didn't run the siding to the bottom of the wood framing? I think that's what the OP is looking to do.

 

[captain14]

The picture I posted is mine I finished the other day. Look at the bottom metal trim in relationto bottom of door. It is 1 1/2" below top of floor plywood

You do this so that the water drains away ffrom the floor.

If I had to do it over again I would have used 4x4s to anchor it down vs sitting on blocks. I thought about it before hand thinking I may need to move it in the future. Afterwards I figuredk could have still mmoved it if I wanted. I was in a hurry to start and finish it as it was talking away from my shop build time.

I can post more pictures of the framing and the progress if it will help you out. I built the entire thing by myself in about 30hrs I think. We had a lot of rain and other life things that kept me from working on it everyday. About a 2 week span though. I figured I got about 1800 in it

If you have enough photos for build thread, it might help the above members out. There are a couple Of other shed build threads here so CWCW can search for those others Also.

 

[Catadj78]

I saw your pic,and that's a nice looking building,but I'm curious why you didn't run the siding to the bottom of the wood framing? I think that's what the OP is looking to do.

My 40x40 pole building will look the same way. Portion of the grade board will be exposed. I plan on just painting to match and using the bottom of the exposed wood to attach painted lattice on the shed once all the final grade is done in that area. Shed is 50' or so from the shop.

 

[Catadj78]

If you have enough photos for build thread, it might help the above members out. There are a couple Of other shed build threads here so CWCW can search for those others Also.

If you think it will help I can do a shed build thread showing all the steps and just link it to here.

 

[Doug B]

My 40x40 pole building will look the same way. Portion of the grade board will be exposed. I plan on just painting to match and using the bottom of the exposed wood to attach painted lattice on the shed once all the final grade is done in that area. Shed is 50' or so from the shop.

 

[Catadj78]

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4714504#post4714504

Hope this helps

 

[CWCW]

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4714504#post4714504

Hope this helps

Awesome! Those pics will help out! Got another question though, how did u level your blocks on the ground? Did u have a laser level to use? I don't have one and after looking at prices I don't think I wanna spend the kind of cash I have seen some cost unless there is a cheaper design or method out there.

 

[Catadj78]

Depending on how out of level where the building will set.

I set the first block at the lowest point and used a 4' level from one block to the next. I think where I put mine was only a couple inches out of level across the 16'. I chose a place that had fall to it to keep water out from under the building and blocks.

Be sure to get the floor as level as possible as it will make the rest easier.

 

[Jlbc212]

Awesome! Those pics will help out! Got another question though, how did u level your blocks on the ground? Did u have a laser level to use? I don't have one and after looking at prices I don't think I wanna spend the kind of cash I have seen some cost unless there is a cheaper design or method out there.

You can make a water level with clear plastic tubing.

 

[bgarrett]

I live in North Texas about 20 min south of Fort Worth so the ground freezing isn't an issue around here.

When did south of Ft Worth become 'north' Texas???????
North Texas is the panhandle.
Dallas has always been considered as East Texas

 

[MScott]

I live in North Texas about 20 min south of Fort Worth so the ground freezing isn't an issue around here.

You can put your location in your profile so readers don't have to look for this particular post to find out where you are.

At the top of the page, click on User CP
Click Your Profile
Click Edit your Details
Then Additional Information
Put your location in Location

I wish everyone would do this.

 

[CWCW]

When did south of Ft Worth become 'north' Texas???????
North Texas is the panhandle.
Dallas has always been considered as East Texas

The panhandle has always been called the "panhandle" and everywhere in the surounding DFW area is called "North Texas". All local news stations and institutions refer to this area as north texas as crazy as it may sound. There is even a university in Denton (just north of DFW) called the University of North Texas.

Anything east of Dallas is called East Texas. Tyler is East Texas

 

[xplodn]

I did the same thing more or less here in Phoenix. 2x4 12" on center. Outside was doubled up and built the side walls to fit a full 8' sheet of siding to the top. 3/4" plywood on the base has seen serious weight without issue at all. I even have shelving in there that is resting 1000lbs on 4 corner pieces and its fine. I love the height, definately build it tall and larger than you think you want.