16" or 24" centers?

[bullnerd]

I went with zero studs.

 

[Marctrees]

bullnerd - Tht is a very neatly done instl.

Please explain what you did... confused cause I see no seams in insul.

Unless you ran 24" rolls hoirizontal and your seams are hiding very neatly tucked behind your inside 2x4 ?2x6? ??

Are the batts held in place only by friction fit... or did you use any of those various hangers sold that stab into the backside kinda like how carpet tack strip works ??

Good looking job... give me details what you did please.

I like it.

Marc

 

[Bert_]

bullnerd - Tht is a very neatly done instl.

Please explain what you did... confused cause I see no seams in insul.

Unless you ran 24" rolls hoirizontal and your seams are hiding very neatly tucked behind your inside 2x4 ?2x6? ??

Are the batts held in place only by friction fit... or did you use any of those various hangers sold that stab into the backside kinda like how carpet tack strip works ??

Good looking job... give me details what you did please.

I like it.

Marc

Most pole building manufactures sell insulation that's wide enough to fit between the poles. Guessing that's what he did, one big piece of insulation.

 

[Marctrees]

Bert - Yes... and no.

Usually the wide insul is faced w a Lamtec facing, AND is made 72" wide or less.

Yes, it can be ordered unfaced but that is very rarely done.

His stuff is naked, and sure looks like the seams are hiding.

But ya.. I am very familiar w the metal and pole building wide rolls.

Thank you.. we will see what Bullnerd says.

Marc

 

[acer66]

Technically correct, due to less heat conduction by fewer through wall framing members.

But, negligible difference.

Marc

I framed over an old roof, removed the shingles first, filled with insulation and on frosty days I can see where the 2x are because it thaws there first.
While that might be negligible to some I would always go 24’ oc and my 1901 house was framed 24” oc so that is no new technique.

 

[HoosierMark]

I know you ask about 16" or 24" studs but let me tell you what I did. I put 1.5 inches of foam against the purloins, then I bought 55 foot rolls of four inch thick by 4 and 5 foot wide rolls of fiberglass insulation from a pole barn supplier. My posts were 9 and 10 foot apart in places. Then I attached purloins on the inside of my 5 1/2 inch thick posts. To these, I am going to attach my plywood for wall up 8 feet and metal up the rest of the 6 foot. Doing it this way gave me an easy place to run my wiring, air lines and water lines. The inside purloins give me a wide place to nail, there are no gaps in the insulation either. The 4 x 8 sheets of foam are butted tight also. I plan to put a 1 x 6 on the joint between the metal and the plywood which will allow me to have a nice access if I want to run any additional wire, etc. I plan to paint it a different color as an accent. I was concerned that the purloins might have some flex but after the insulation was in, they are stiff. The pole barn supplier said I could get 5 foot wide roll insulation if I wanted. We simply pushed the insulation up between the top chord the trusses sit on and it trapped it for us while we nailed the new horizontal purloins. Another benefit of pushing the insulation up is that when you blow insulation you have a stop so the air can flow up from the overhangs and you do not blow it on the overhang.

 

[bullnerd]

Yes, I used blanket rolls from Morton buildings.

Cut to length vertically and hanging from the top.

Very easy to install. There are a few seams, But only because the rolls varied slightly. Heres a seam.

If you go to the first page in my build (link in sig) you can see how I did all the insulation.

 

[johnnyradiant]

Damp like a bathroom shower? Low horizontal ceiling? Need show room flat?

Yes to these three then 16" Or if you take 3 hours per stud then you might realize some labour savings with 24"