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1935 Gas Station Resurrection

ambenz

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Man I just can't believe those tiles haven't gotten cheaper.
I have been waiting 10 years for the price to drop...at $2+ a tile, it just isn't feasible for me to do 660 squares.
I have to ask about your plans for the outside, doing anything to even "hint" it was a service station or are you going stealth on the outside?
 
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ShumanSS6.0

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Truly incredible build - just lost the last two hours of my life stumbling into this thread but well worth it! Your drive and attention to detail is top notch. Nice collection of period correct items you are adding as well. I was just in Des Moines this past week for the first time, I can see how that area is losing some of the vintage look for lofts and modern amenities. Keep up the great work!
 
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HD FLHX

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Man I just can't believe those tiles haven't gotten cheaper.
I have been waiting 10 years for the price to drop...at $2+ a tile, it just isn't feasible for me to do 660 squares.
I have to ask about your plans for the outside, doing anything to even "hint" it was a service station or are you going stealth on the outside?

Stay tuned...its coming

I have an original 42" Sinclair HC sign to hang on the building and 2 Wayne 505 gas pumps I'm going to restore in period correct Sinclair HC and PowerX colors.

I photoshopped a pic to show the sign placement. There will be a concrete island poured in the stoned area between the doors for the pumps, It will be pretty close to where the pumps were placed originally.





I forgot to post a few of my flea market finds from Saturday morning

 

rmalkow2

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Yeah they came from Menards. To be perfectly honest price and local availability were the biggest factors. These were on sale during one of Menards 11% sales so that knocked about 10 bucks off each bundle. I did have to go to 2 different stores to get enough to do the room.

Thanks for the info. I forgot about the monthly 11% sale, that would definitely help. It looks great all installed. I will be interested in your opinion after giving to some typical use.
 

Homebody

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Place just keeps getting better and better!!
Do those tiles flex at all where I could put them on a floor that has a slope towards a drain?
 

shortykorte

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Looking good. Surface lights definitely sheds more light. Seeing the stacked light bases, I'm thinking a 1935 structure needs some nice Art Deco style light bases. Think layered, stylized, geometric shapes.
 

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csp

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Crazy think that sign had been up in the attic for at least 36yrs untouched.

The best thing about that sign is you know the story behind it. Anyone can display signs that they buy, but that Dodge sign is a find you can never buy.
 

BUGTHUG

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The DINO SOAP is cool. Would that be something that they would sell at the station, or is it maybe free with a fill up?
 
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HD FLHX

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The DINO SOAP is cool. Would that be something that they would sell at the station, or is it maybe free with a fill up?


It says on the box "complimnets of your Sinclair dealer" so it must have been some sort of a give away.
 
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HD FLHX

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I'm to the point now its just as bunch of little things that aren't really pic worthy. Hung a few more signs in the front. The pile of wood is going to be a work bench.



Finally had a really nice weekend in the 70's so I worked on a few outside projects. The first was redoing the the wood on the filled in windows on the backside of the rear addition. On two of the windows the inner 2x4s were still in good enough condition to reuse. I did add 2x4s in the middle on both the top and bottom for what ever reason when they filled the windows originally they only had 2x4s on the sides. After the 2x4s were in I filled the center with 1" foam board and put a piece of plastic on.




The third window was in really bad shape so other than a little bit of framing at the top everything else had to be redone.





I didn't get a pic, but all the windows are filled back in with 1/2" plywood. I primed them before they were installed. I haven't made my mind up yet, but I may cover the plywood with metal pro-rib panel. It would definitely be a longer lasting repair and probably look better too.

Another thing I finished up was the outside trim around the last overhead door. This opening will never match the others exactly because this door opening isn't original to the building. I think it looks alright though. Its just in primer for now, hopefully within the next month or so I'll get all the outside paint work done on the door opening.



I enjoy finding remnants from the buildings past garage life like this little Kendall sticker that was still intact on one of the shop windows.

 
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PugetDude

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Another thing I finished up was the outside trim around the last overhead door. This opening will never match the others exactly because this door isn't original to the building.


It's really looking good, HD.

Just a thought; it looks like you could trim out the other doors to match this one... White 1x trim around the top and sides, T-111 between the top trim and the door. The 1x side trim would be a little narrower on the original doors, but the 1x 4 trim across the top would visually tie them all together...

Love the build, one of the first threads I check when I log onto the GJ threads.:thumbup:
 

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HD FLHX

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It's really looking good, HD.

Just a thought; it looks like you could trim out the other doors to match this one... White 1x trim around the top and sides, T-111 between the top trim and the door. The 1x side trim would be a little narrower on the original doors, but the 1x 4 trim across the top would visually tie them all together...

Love the build, one of the first threads I check when I log onto the GJ threads.:thumbup:

The problem with that and it really doesn't show as much in the other pic is the depth the other 4 doors are recessed. You would have to build out the jamb another probably 3" inches maybe more to be able to trim out the faces with 1x6. On the last door the opening jamb is flush with the face of the brick and the 1x6 hides where the brick was cut to install the door. (Side note the upper trim work above the 4th door hasn't been done yet.)


 
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C_F

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20170408_162406_zpsantw99q5.jpg

Uh-oh, someone tagged your back wall!:mad: Time to install motion sensor cameras, along with a motion activated gatling gun that shoots tranquilizer darts. The little bastages wake up in jail the next morning with about 30 dart holes in them. :D
 

shortykorte

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Looking good as usual. Looks like you need some Olds signs. ;)

I love the stove pipe through the window. To bad you couldn't keep that. I do have an idea for that window. We had the same windows in our gas station so they're nostalgic to me. My idea is to put a poster (wood or steel backer) of a garage scene in window opening then restore the window. Maybe you could dress in a vintage Sinclair uniform and use that. Definitely a conversation piece.
 

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HD FLHX

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Looking good as usual. Looks like you need some Olds signs. ;)

I love the stove pipe through the window. To bad you couldn't keep that. I do have an idea for that window. We had the same windows in our gas station so they're nostalgic to me. My idea is to put a poster (wood or steel backer) of a garage scene in window opening then restore the window. Maybe you could dress in a vintage Sinclair uniform and use that. Definitely a conversation piece.

Its a neat idea and I have the same nostalgia for those windows. The old Ford garage I grew up in had them as did the body shop I worked in for 8 years. The thing is that the only people that would ever see it are the half dozen people that live in the upstairs apartments along 2nd street. That part of the building is far enough back from the street out front it would go unnoticed. Thats also the reason why I left all the back windows covered up...keeps wondering eyes out.
 
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HD FLHX

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Some more little things. Here is a pic of the finished filled in back windows, At the moment the plywood is just primed and caulked to get them weather tight. I am going to paint the openings something close to the brick color.



Sometimes its better to be lucky than good. I needed something to cap the bottom of the siding on the 5th overhead door opening. I picked up a piece of pre primed pine corner molding. Just so happens it was a perfect fit. Flush with the face trim and same thickness as the siding panels.




I unloaded the last full trailer load of debris that came out of this building at the landfill on Monday. It ended up being 7 loads all together at a little over 24,000lbs :eek:



I was pretty stoked to get this mid 80's NOS Napa sign with bracket for cheap off of ebay this week. Still in all the original packaging.




Slowly moving equipment in from the other shop. Taking time to clean off the last 5 years of bodywork dust as I go. My Millers haven't looked that good for a long time






Lastly ordered the lift yesterday, it will be in on Tuesday. I bought an 8000lb 4 post lift from Greg Smith Equipment with the optional center jack


 
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C_F

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Judging from the size of the items you've moved in, I imagine you have a bunch more elbow room at your home shop now. :)

It looks good in there!:thumbup:
 
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HD FLHX

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Judging from the size of the items you've moved in, I imagine you have a bunch more elbow room at your home shop now. :)

It looks good in there!:thumbup:

Funny how that works isn't it:dunno: One place gets instantly bigger while the other gets smaller
 
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HD FLHX

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Joe,

There's some Sinclair and other signage at this auction in Wisconsin:

https://www.proxibid.com/asp/Catalog.asp?aid=125026

Thanks. I'm friends with Yvette on facebook and had seen the auction flyer with some of the cars, but hadn't paid much attention to the memorabilia. There's a couple nice Auto-Lite pieces too.

Wow OP, I spent the last few hours reading this whole thread; it's amazing!

Thanks for stopping by and taking up that much of your time.
 
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HD FLHX

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Few more thing checked off the list. Smoothed out some of the pot holes left by the old lift. Not looking for perfection just to be able to roll a jack or a creeper around smoothly. Side note you can see some of the carpet glue residue left. I've scraped the floor probably 4 times with a 4" blade scraper and finally have most of it cut off and it is smooth to the touch. The rest is just going to have to wear off. Just part of the character of an old building.





I made a trip down to our Northern Tool store in Des Moines and picked up a new Quincy air compressor while they were still on sale Friday. Its the same compressor that I have at the shop at home. 60 gallon 2 stage one of the best on the market for the money IMO.




Organizing stuff as it gets moved and put away.






When you have old pin style letters and badges laying around with no use for them. but you don't want to throw them away.



Started to plumb the air line last night till I realized I was 1 90` fitting short and every place was closed. I mentioned it a while back, but I will be using Rapidair's Maxline kit for the air lines. 3 drops for now (one in each section of the shop.) A future drop will be added to the very front bay at some point.



From the regulator it will turn 90 degrees up and at that point I will connect the Maxline to it and run it up to the ceiling.



The old country sedan stopped by yesterday to check the place out.

 

BUGTHUG

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What kind of mix is that on the cracks? Does it set up real hard to run things over? I was looking for the stuff that SAM's (Wal Mart) use to fill in there cracks and the expansion joints. I think its some kind of 2 part epoxy, turns dark gray, and seems to be very hard.
I have the same air line you have, but I'm almost ashamed to admit that its still in the box going on a year now. I'm going to watch how and what you use from the tank out. So if you don't mind a small tutorial on installing it, I'm sure myself and others would enjoy it, and would be helpful. Thanks
 
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HD FLHX

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What kind of mix is that on the cracks? Does it set up real hard to run things over? I was looking for the stuff that SAM's (Wal Mart) use to fill in there cracks and the expansion joints. I think its some kind of 2 part epoxy, turns dark gray, and seems to be very hard.
I have the same air line you have, but I'm almost ashamed to admit that its still in the box going on a year now. I'm going to watch how and what you use from the tank out. So if you don't mind a small tutorial on installing it, I'm sure myself and others would enjoy it, and would be helpful. Thanks

The patch material is the same stuff I used to level an area in the front bay. Post #507 shows a pic of the bag. It seems to set up pretty hard. I guess time will tell on how well it holds up, but for 10 bucks a bag I figured it was worth a shot. They use the epoxy you mentioned at work and its biggest downfall is it is expensive. Will do on the maxline install :thumbup:
 
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HD FLHX

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Took advantage of a dry 70 degree afternoon and got the area above each of the overhead doors painted yesterday.



Between coats I ran home and loaded up the F100 and brought it to the new shop. I left it on the trailer while I finished up the painting and by the amount of attention it drew I'm know I'm on the right track with that truck. Literally breaking necks :)


 

C_F

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Between coats I ran home and loaded up the F100 and brought it to the new shop. I left it on the trailer while I finished up the painting and by the amount of attention it drew I'm know I'm on the right track with that truck. Literally breaking necks :)
That's great!:lol:

With the painting finished above the doors, they all match each other much nicer now. The place is sure looking good!:beer:
 

GGB

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And it just keeps getting better! Thanks again for sharing.

GGB
 

rmalkow2

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Glad to see you moving in after a lot of hard work on the new shop. The decorating as you go is cool and adding that right flavor to the place.
 

tym

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But where's the kitchen and bed? :confused:

You're living there, aren't you (I would)?




:drool::)
 
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HD FLHX

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Picked up the lift from Greg Smith Tuesday afternoon. Looks like Sunday will be put the lift together day.




F100 settling into its new home




Shop fridge stocked..the beer to water ratio will likely change as the temperature increases.



Finished up the air lines today. The Maxline system is very easy to put together and provides a tight leaked free system. I've had this system in the home shop for over 4 years now with zero issues. The worst part is trying to get the line uncoiled and somewhat straight. I was lucky in this installation because the furnace ducting hides the air line so it didn't have to be perfect. I just got the drops as straight as I could. The kit comes with a pair cutters to cut the pipe (which they do with ease) and a special tool to prep the ends for the compression fitting.




Once the tool is inserted make at least 3 complete turns then remove. It cuts a taper on the inside of the tube.



After that its just a matter of installing the ends and tightening them up.



On the manifolds I add a piece of 3/8ths pipe 6 inches long to the bottom for the drain. I figured it would be better to get any moisture that collects further down a way from air supply fitting. The hole size on the manifold is 1/2 npt so you have to reduce it down to 1/4 npt for the air hose coupler.




The assembled manifold. The kit comes with 3 of these.



Electrical ran from the disconnect box to the pressure switch.



Clips that secure the tubing to the wall.



This my finished system for now. 3 drops total. I put a regulator/water trap right off the compressor. I'll use it for a while and see how it does. If moisture is an issue I'll put traps on each drop. I really don't think it will be though. One thing I do a bit different is I bought 2 90 degree fitting to make the corners at the ceiling. I just think it looks cleaner and is easier to install.







A few more pics/signs going up. The dealer plates are from dealers I worked for before I went to work for Deere. I found them stuffed away in the bottom of my toolbox when I was cleaning it out.

 
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Loose Ctrl

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Thanks for showing how those lines connect. I have wondered exactly how those compression fittings work. I never thought that the softer tubing would get an internal bevel to make the connection.

I like the way you C-notched the Ford's rear frame for the axle. Will you be raising the bed floor, or cutting it out and building a box over the C-notches?
 
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HD FLHX

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Thanks for showing how those lines connect. I have wondered exactly how those compression fittings work. I never thought that the softer tubing would get an internal bevel to make the connection.

I like the way you C-notched the Ford's rear frame for the axle. Will you be raising the bed floor, or cutting it out and building a box over the C-notches?

I made a tunnel to cover the notches. I showed it in my projects thread in the Fab section found here

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=268066&page=28



 

BUGTHUG

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Thanks for showing how those lines connect. I have wondered exactly how those compression fittings work. I never thought that the softer tubing would get an internal bevel to make the connection.

I like the way you C-notched the Ford's rear frame for the axle. Will you be raising the bed floor, or cutting it out and building a box over the C-notches?

yes, thanks on the maxi lines.:thumbup:
 
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