1940's Companion drill press help

[cmandp]

I have a Companion 101.03520 table top drill press in need of some work.

It is very similar to this one I found on vintage machinery...
http://vintagemachinery.org/photoind....aspx?id=11200

The problem is that the spindle (and maybe the quill in the head too) has noticeable movement when you grab the chuck and push it back and forth. I can see one bearing just above the chuck arbor that I assume to be at least partly at fault.


My questions are...

What parts can cause this play in the spindle?

Also could someone either describe or point me toward a thread that shows how to take this thing apart? I have an idea, I just don't want any surprises.

Am I correct in thinking the quill has a No.1 Morse taper for the chuck arbor? I ordered some Jacobs chuck removal wedges which I presume are about the only way to separate the taper. As far as I can tell this press does not have the original chuck, on it now is a #33B Jacobs chuck and what looks to be a self made arbor. I can get pictures if it helps you guys.

Any help appreciated.

 

[amguttin]

its most likely bad bearings or there might be a bushing missing in between the quill and sleeve

 

[RCStocker]

As a part time machinery dealer I would not mess with it unless you really rer into restoring old machinery. You might need to have bushings truned to match the quill. If you don't have a lathe it will cost a bundle. I am sure you will be able to find a berring.
Drill presses are so cheap I would scrap it out and move on. It will never be worth what you will put into the press.

Every time I go buy out a shop or machine I take my indicators and volt meter. I chedk everthing for runout and voltage. If things are not tight I pass it up unless it is dirt cheap and I can use the parts.

 

[cmandp]

Thanks for the input so far. I do want to try and fix the play or at least make it less severe. I do want to get a heavier duty drill press with more speeds that would be more conducive to drilling metals and larger holes. This press was passed down in the family so I don't think my dad and I can just get rid of it.

Here are some pictures.
The press

The chuck

The arbor and spindle

Any thoughts on separating the chuck arbor taper? Also you can see the chuck says "THD 5/8 - 16", does that mean the arbor is threaded into the chuck?

 

[Outlawmws]

your press appears to be 1939 +-.

These appear to be the specs for that press, and it is supposed to have one roller bearing at the spindle, and bronze bushings elsewhere.

It should not be that difficult to get a bearing to replace the one on the spindle. the bushings may or may not need replacing as they don't get the punishment that the main lower bearing gets.

That's not a bad little press, and certainly better than an import once any bearing wear issues are resolved.

Is he model No. on it, and does it have a 101 prefix? If so, it's an Atlas built Press.

 

[WWIIjeep]

This press was passed down in the family so I don't think my dad and I can just get rid of it.

Absolutely the best reason for restoring and using it.

Restored, that old Companion will drill circles around most of the similarly-sized Asian import drill presses available today.

Any thoughts on separating the chuck arbor taper? Also you can see the chuck says "THD 5/8 - 16", does that mean the arbor is threaded into the chuck?

Yes. The Jacobs 33B is a threaded-arbor chuck. The chuck should probably thread on at the bottom of the part where you have the arrow on top of it in your photos.

 

[cmandp]

Is he model No. on it, and does it have a 101 prefix? If so, it's an Atlas built Press.

Yes the model number is 101.03520. This is only a four speed press, unlike the specs you posted.


Thank you Outlawmws and WWIIjeep for the info.

 

[Outlawmws]

Yes the model number is 101.03520. This is only a four speed press, unlike the specs you posted.


Thank you Outlawmws and WWIIjeep for the info.

It's only a "7 speed" technically; you have to mess with the motor up and down, or run the belt out of line to get to the 7 speeds, it has 4 pulley sheaves at each end...

 

[thebeekeeper1]

I bought one of those a couple of years ago at a pawn shop ($39 OTD). The only thing about mine is a third pulley was added in between the original two which slows it down enough to be useful for drilling in metal. As cobbled as it is, it was well done, and works well.

 

[Outlawmws]

I bought one of those a couple of years ago at a pawn shop ($39 OTD). The only thing about mine is a third pulley was added in between the original two which slows it down enough to be useful for drilling in metal. As cobbled as it is, it was well done, and works well.

Post a pic of your third pulley setup That was a separate factory option for these.

 

[cmandp]

It's only a "7 speed" technically; you have to mess with the motor up and down, or run the belt out of line to get to the 7 speeds, it has 4 pulley sheaves at each end...

Interesting, I didn't know that. Although practically I'd imagine adjusting the motor height and getting the pulleys lined up would be a pain.

I bought one of those a couple of years ago at a pawn shop ($39 OTD). The only thing about mine is a third pulley was added in between the original two which slows it down enough to be useful for drilling in metal. As cobbled as it is, it was well done, and works well.

Yes, please post a picture of your pulleys.

 

[thebeekeeper1]

I found a pic I had posted when I bought it on another site:

 

[Outlawmws]

Yep that appears to be the factory third pulley setup, or a close facsimile.

Its' basically a pulley on a post attached to an eccentric hub that fits inside the column tube, there should be a set screw that expands the hub to keep it in place once the spindle belt is adjusted the the motor belt is adjusted.

Here is the ad from '39 for the part:

 

[thebeekeeper1]

Ah, thanks. I'm glad to know it is factory original. It needs a new chuck, but other than that is in amazingly good shape. I've drilled a few holes in steel with it and it does run nicely, so I am pleased for $40.

Edit: In case anyone notices, I did adjust the motor mount to align the rear belt properly after that pic was taken.

 

[Cabbie]

I just got the 101.03521 free at a swap meet cause no one would pay $10 for it. I wanted the cabinet that it was mounted to, and the guy left it for garbage at the end of the swap meet. I got it home, and found that someone scabbed a power cord to it, and thats why it didnt work. After looking at some pictures it looks like some one made a drill stop attachement, which I will keep as it looks to be a great addition. It seems that Im missing the the third pulley set up, and the spindle condom. I am in the middle of tearing it down and restoring it to sell for a few bucks. I will post pictures when I get done putting it back together.

The chuck is threaded on the spindle, and I have a fiber washer between the bearing and main housing. It does have 2 brass bushings in the top and bottom part of the housing, which seem to be tight on mine. It seems that new bushings could easily be pressed in to take up the slack.

Thanks,
Dan

 

[jtbinvalrico]

OP, where are you at on the DP? I'm hoping to read about some restored-been-in-the-family-for-a-while iron.

 

[cmandp]

OP, where are you at on the DP? I'm hoping to read about some restored-been-in-the-family-for-a-while iron.

I took the quill out and cleaned all the old gunk off of it and where it rides in the head, then relubed it. I was able to adjust the collar on the upper part of the quill that (I assume) holds a bushing. Doing that removed some play in the quill, but I confirmed that most of the play is between the head and the quill.

I was wondering how I could match up a new bearing? This one has the number 4956 on it. Some quick google searches seem to bring up all types and sizes of bearings with that number.

 

[Cabbie]

When you pulled the spindle out, did you have 2 drill stops on there? I pulled mine apart for paint, and now cant remember where those two stops go. Anyone have a drawing for assembly?

 

[Cabbie]

Here are a few shots of my 99% finished DP. I am afraid of killing the original motor by taking it apart, so it will stay in the rough state. I still need to get a new belt, and paint the letters on the head piece. The last picture shows the 1940's Walker Turner DP that I restored a few years back. Now the question is which one should I get rid of, and how much?

 

[Outlawmws]

Which one is the better DP?

Quill stroke, chuck size, distance from center of the chuck of the post, # of speeds...

Walker made a good DP, but if the Craftsman beats it in areas that matter to you...

 

[justanengineer]

I was wondering how I could match up a new bearing? This one has the number 4956 on it. Some quick google searches seem to bring up all types and sizes of bearings with that number.

Not sure if its too late to help, but just in case you still need it - Not to put it down, but these DPs are not built to be super precise due to their size and target market. The original bearings therefore were likely simple automotive grade bearings, which makes them easily sourced and replaced. Not sure if they have them in your part of the world, but Kaman specializes in, among other things, bearings and should be able to help square you away. You could either measure them yourself with a pair of calipers and pass along the measurements, or simply take the DP into their store and let them do so for you.

If youve never been to one, getting to know your local industrial supply houses and specialty stores is well worth it in times like these. Good work thus far btw.