Your lift setup will definitely test the anchors and slab. Did you drill the holes in the slab? At what depth did the drill drop through? If the slab is the right thickness, a repair would be an anchor epoxied in. Once you find the offending column with a plumb bob, I'd unbolt it and remove to inspect for cracks before repairing anchors that won't torque.
2 post lift
- Thread starter midas
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Only one bolt won't torque. I did have to use shims under the post...no more than a 1/4 inch though. It's kind of like the base plate is bowed, not in the floor. I drilled down at least 7" and it was all concrete. The columns are still plumb.
Install plumb bob on face perpendicular to the car door, mark lift unloaded, loaded and then observe while jumping up and down. The plumb needs to be on a face parallel to the car door when rocking the car back and forth. If it doesn't change, the flex is elsewhere- like the carriage.
All the pictures seem to be the column towards the center of the building. Concrete guys had a bad day out there. The entire inner (towards the car) needs to be shimmed, none of that steel is helping prevent the hobby horse syndrome. The concrete appears to be crowned right at the column. Or maybe move the lift 3 inches or so along its existing center line to get the entire column pad on flat concrete.
Forever Fixin
Well-known member
I agree with the above post. Your second pic, there is gap between the column and the floor, that needs to be shimmed all the way across. If you think your concrete is questionable Greg Smith carries those baseplate extension kits and I would consider one in your situation. You shouldn't have to be worried about working under your lift.
The Crack is about 8"away. I did put the supplied shims under the post to get them plumb. I was told to possibly full the void with some leveling concrete.,not sure if that would help calm down the post wobble. It actually seems like it's the metal that is flimsy, because it is not moving at all at the base. Here is the best location I can get for the truck...
I really wish others that have this lift could comment on the post wobble. I can't believe i am the only one with this style.
I really wish others that have this lift could comment on the post wobble. I can't believe i am the only one with this style.
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WhiffySpark
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Everyone of my 7 lifts shake. Yours being wider is going to be worse. You have a small foot plate as well
WhiffySpark
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You don't want the arms at 90. Greater than 90 is better. The wider the better
If you have a tall adaptor you can put the rear on the leaf spring mount and the front on the frame by the trans cross member. But where you have it now should be ok
If you have a tall adaptor you can put the rear on the leaf spring mount and the front on the frame by the trans cross member. But where you have it now should be ok
WhiffySpark
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WhiffySpark
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493 scamp
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I have worked under lifts since 1978 at 3 dealerships and 3 independents,they all have flex in the arms,the columns should not move enough to be visible. I once raised my race car too far to the rear because I needed the door to open further to have access to the steering column floor bolts. I was pulling the engine/trans/kframe as an assembly. I was on a creeper under the car and removed the last k frame bolt and watched the car stand up on its back bumper with grille 8 feet in air. I had to use ratchet straps to pull car back down to front arms and chain it on,then change underwear. The center of gravity is very important .The round peg adapters wobble some as well especially stacked. Tall screw jack stands help and always set lift on safety stops. Consider how much weight removed parts will make. I even used an old lift that had long baseplate angle iron that was not even bolted down!
493 scamp
Well-known member
l also have one of these at work. Park on for most cars and just past for trucks.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FREE-SHIPPING-ROTARY-LIFT-AUTOMOTIVE-METAL-WHEEL-SPOTTING-DISH-FF729-free-ship-/281734117959?hash=item4198a97a47&item=281734117959&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FREE-SHIPPING-ROTARY-LIFT-AUTOMOTIVE-METAL-WHEEL-SPOTTING-DISH-FF729-free-ship-/281734117959?hash=item4198a97a47&item=281734117959&vxp=mtr
493 scamp
Well-known member
I can't see ours move looking up at the top when running it. To be safe have it checked. I don't like the looks of the shims they send either. The solid base spreads the load better than 6 little u shaped shims. Go to several shops and tell them what you have and ask to see their lifts in action. Small shops would probably let you if you explained the situation. And you tube wouldn't let me watch your video without password.
493 scamp
Well-known member
Ok I was wrong,I never noticed it before but if you look straight up at the top bar as you jog the lift by repeatedly running it a second or two then stopping,or release it an inch at a time it does visibly move but what looks like less than an 1/8 of an inch. The base cant be seen moving. I assume the columns flex over the length that much. This is a rotary asymmetric with rusty anchor bolts that is over 15 years old. I am installing an Atlas 9ohsc-ss lift in my garage and hope the concrete and anchors hold. Let us know what happens!
Light duty 2 post lifts flex and wobble. It's just the way it is. I've never used a lift under 10-12,000 lbs that doesn't flex the arms and wobble around going up. When I put super duty trucks on a 10k lift the arms visibly flex down an inch. The only 2 post lift I've ever use that is entirely stable is a huge 20k truck lift that won't move if you put a small car on it. It still flexes and wobbles with F450 and F550s on it.
If the posts aren't pulling out of the floor and you put it together right don't worry about it too much. They all seep a bit too, from the bleeders and fittings. You'll go nuts trying to get it perfectly sealed. If you don't have a puddle on the floor, don't worry.
The lift I use daily at work, the columns visibly wobble when it tops out. I had an adjuster out yesterday and it freaked him out when I put a truck up. It's been like that forever and hasn't gotten any worse or failed.
If the posts aren't pulling out of the floor and you put it together right don't worry about it too much. They all seep a bit too, from the bleeders and fittings. You'll go nuts trying to get it perfectly sealed. If you don't have a puddle on the floor, don't worry.
The lift I use daily at work, the columns visibly wobble when it tops out. I had an adjuster out yesterday and it freaked him out when I put a truck up. It's been like that forever and hasn't gotten any worse or failed.
My advice is don't keep torquing the bolts. I worked next to a guy who was constantly tightening the bolts because he thought they were loose and he ended up pulling them out of the floor. I had the same lift, same concrete and never messed with mine, no issues. They aren't designed to be continually tightened. If it makes you feel better, be sure they aren't loose by hand. That lift ended up needing steel plates added as outriggers because he pulled the bolts out.
NoSloCoupes
Well-known member
With my Rotary, i use a spotting dish also thats located to the specs in the manual. Also it has a wheelbase measurements showing placement in relation to the dish...just forward,on, and just past.
@midas another piece of data to ease your mind I raised my carriages (with no load) to the top last lock and when i grab both arms and move the carriage back/forth with in the column I can see the columns move a bit near the top, the base is firm but there is some flex there (Atlas BP 8000) - So confirmed its not just you, also tried this at a local shop on one of their lifts, same thing.. There is some flex in these things, I do agree when something is holding thousands of pounds above, you would expect them to be firm, rigid and not move at all.
Regarding 2 post lift issue or any more information, you can visit here http://www.autoequipmentdepot.com/2-post-lifts.html