2 Sluggo's Garage
- Thread starter rmalkow2
- Start date
Thanks for checking in. I've not had much meaningful to post lately but have just been busy with work and chores and not working out in the heat too long. Two weekends ago I actually spent a Saturday selling a lot of extra car parts and a few tool items at a local swap meet. It was good to get rid of stuff I do not need, gain back some garage space and bring home cash. Last weekend was mostly unpacking from that event and house chores.
I keep looking at that cabinet every time I walk past and thinking about the top. While it would be nice to do something fancy like stainless steel, I think I will probably go with a wood top which I think will be more practical in the future and even let me mount a vise to it etc. I just have not taken time yet to measure up my available pieces of plywood before having to go buy something.
I keep looking at that cabinet every time I walk past and thinking about the top. While it would be nice to do something fancy like stainless steel, I think I will probably go with a wood top which I think will be more practical in the future and even let me mount a vise to it etc. I just have not taken time yet to measure up my available pieces of plywood before having to go buy something.
1/2 Cup
Member Emeritus
rmalkow,
My guess would be a bench top???
Or a nice laser cut sign???
Regards
My guess would be a bench top???
Or a nice laser cut sign???
Regards
Yep, a beautiful new 3/4" thick hard maple top for my Lyon cabinet. My friend "Woz" saw the discussion and called to say he had a large amount of maple boards 3/4" thick and was going to make me a top. And it's a beauty. When I first opened the wrapping paper I was thinking (and still am) it was too nice for a simple work surface. It definitely classes up the place.
I drilled 5 holes in the cabinet top, placed the wood top and marked the holes and then predrilled for wood screws since this is pretty hard stuff to screw into.
All screwed in place and ready for work. It's going to be a handy work surface and is just the right height for me when I'm standing. It also has his own magic special home brew finish which looks great.
Thanks Woz!!!
I owe you for this one.
I drilled 5 holes in the cabinet top, placed the wood top and marked the holes and then predrilled for wood screws since this is pretty hard stuff to screw into.
All screwed in place and ready for work. It's going to be a handy work surface and is just the right height for me when I'm standing. It also has his own magic special home brew finish which looks great.
Thanks Woz!!!
I owe you for this one.Attachments
1/2 Cup
Member Emeritus
rmalkow, now that is sweet, great score.............
Regards
Regards
taumac
Well-known member
rmalkow, now that is sweet, great score.............
Regards
I couldn't agree more. That's really really nice.
jon72vega
Well-known member
The maple top looks nice!
Grumblebum
Well-known member
Nice score on the bench top RM.
Woz
Well-known member
I appreciate the good friend comment but I am not a lurker. I have 30 posts in seven years of membership. I think of myself as a selective poster.
The top looks good on the cabinet and I am glad the wood is being used rather than just setting my basement. The maple is from the Upper Peninsula of Michigan. It does look nice when finished but it can be difficult cut and shape if you are not using carbide saw blades and router bits.
The top looks good on the cabinet and I am glad the wood is being used rather than just setting my basement. The maple is from the Upper Peninsula of Michigan. It does look nice when finished but it can be difficult cut and shape if you are not using carbide saw blades and router bits.
Woz,
I stand corrected on the lurker status. And I feel complete now that I finally got you to post on my thread.
When I unwrapped that top my jaw hit the floor. I thought maybe I should make a table for inside the house from it. But it fits perfect and the rounded top edge you put on is perfect for a work surface I think.
Hey only 70 more posts and you make it to senior member!!! :thumb:
Thanks again for taking the time to make this for me.
Finally a more productive day in the garage. The heat has dropped and the humidity is lower as well. Got oil changes done on my old 1984 GMC truck and the old minivan and got the minivan vacuumed and wiped down inside so hopefully it will better impress a buyer. Took a bunch of old oil to be recycled and even had time to help a neighbor haul a trailer load of tree branches away for disposal.
It feels nice to be able to get out and be a bit productive.
It feels nice to be able to get out and be a bit productive.
1/2 Cup
Member Emeritus
rmalkow, I couldn't agree more, you feel half human again when the temperature has dropped.
I don't do the heat all that well.
Regards
I don't do the heat all that well.
Regards
AV - Welding Cart 2.0 Upgrade
After converting the last AV cart I brought home to a welding cart I really liked the idea a lot and after using it a couple times it worked well. The first cart was a little big for my small garage and could have used an extra shelf.
So I had the chance to pick up another one at auction a couple weeks ago for a whopping $5. And got to looking at it and decided it was an definite upgrade. Three shelves, slightly smaller footprint and, made of stronger angle iron construction than the previous model.
So far I've just done a quick transfer of welding items but will definitely add some tool styled hanger brackets for welder cables and clamp storage.
Until I find yet the next cart upgrade this one will do nicely.
After converting the last AV cart I brought home to a welding cart I really liked the idea a lot and after using it a couple times it worked well. The first cart was a little big for my small garage and could have used an extra shelf.
So I had the chance to pick up another one at auction a couple weeks ago for a whopping $5. And got to looking at it and decided it was an definite upgrade. Three shelves, slightly smaller footprint and, made of stronger angle iron construction than the previous model.
So far I've just done a quick transfer of welding items but will definitely add some tool styled hanger brackets for welder cables and clamp storage.
Until I find yet the next cart upgrade this one will do nicely.
Attachments
Mustang Brake Job - Simple right?
Last week while driving to work I suddenly started hearing that dreadful metal on metal noise typical of a brake pad that has worn down to the steel backing plate. I had to limp it home at the end of the day and vowed to put some new pads on the rear brakes over the weekend. It was specifically on the right rear. While it did strike me as odd this would happen I thought it could be a quick easy fix. I only bought this car late last summer and have not driven it too many miles and I remember the previous owner saying that the brakes and tires were really new to the car so it seemed odd this would happen so soon. That should have been my first clue this would be a bigger job than normal.
First issue arises, getting the wheel off. I remove the center cap from the wheel and SURPRISE! The car has wheel locks. A little fact the prior owner never told me about and did not give me a lug key for. Of course I went straight to You Tube for a solution and saw various references to using a 12 point socket hammered onto the outside of the special lug to then turn it free. A search through all my regular and spare sockets and just my luck that I had nothing close to fitting this locking nut. Internet idea number 2 is to buy some special reverse thread generic removal sockets, so off to the parts store and picked up a set of two sockets they had. Get home and yep, neither socket in the package fits this particular locking nut diameter. Out comes the air grinder and I start shaving that stupid nut down until I could just start to get an old impact socket on and beat it into place with a hammer. At this point I was willing to sacrifice a socket since I'm spending over an hour just trying to get the wheel off. But it worked and finally that dang lock nut came off with some help from the impact.
Next is to unbolt the caliper which was easy enough with a little help from PB Blaster and that revealed the offending old pads. Sure enough the inboard pad was worn down to the metal plate and the outboard one looked almost new.
Now I'm checking the slide pins and they are both stuck and not sliding at all. So that was the problem causing abnormal pad wear. the slide pins were all gunked up and stuck in place preventing the caliper from relaxing away from the rotor. I cleaned up the slide pins and cleaned out the holes in the mounting bracket the slide into. Put on a little lube and they slide in and out like new.
So in order to fit the new pads on rear discs you have to compress the piston back into the caliper and with integral parking brake the piston has to be compressed while also being turned. Thus far when doing this job I have resorted to various red neck methods of compressing the piston with a c clamp while turning it with some channel locks. On this car that became extremely awkward and by this time I'm ready for a better solution so a quick printing of a 20% off HF coupon and run down to the local Harbor Freight to buy one of their caliper service tool kits. It's surprisingly well made for HF stuff.
Finally something that made the job easier and I'll use it many times in the future without the old struggle factor mixed in because I was too cheap in the past to buy the right tool for the job.
After many hours on what should have been a 1 hour job I finally got the right rear done. Next will be the task of working on the left rear.
Now you may wonder about rotor damage and to my surprise it was not that bad and this is really a temporary fix for the short time left this summer that I will use this car. I plan to install a performance brake upgrade before next summer with new rotors and hi performance pads. This fix will get be by until that happens.
Last week while driving to work I suddenly started hearing that dreadful metal on metal noise typical of a brake pad that has worn down to the steel backing plate. I had to limp it home at the end of the day and vowed to put some new pads on the rear brakes over the weekend. It was specifically on the right rear. While it did strike me as odd this would happen I thought it could be a quick easy fix. I only bought this car late last summer and have not driven it too many miles and I remember the previous owner saying that the brakes and tires were really new to the car so it seemed odd this would happen so soon. That should have been my first clue this would be a bigger job than normal.
First issue arises, getting the wheel off. I remove the center cap from the wheel and SURPRISE! The car has wheel locks. A little fact the prior owner never told me about and did not give me a lug key for. Of course I went straight to You Tube for a solution and saw various references to using a 12 point socket hammered onto the outside of the special lug to then turn it free. A search through all my regular and spare sockets and just my luck that I had nothing close to fitting this locking nut. Internet idea number 2 is to buy some special reverse thread generic removal sockets, so off to the parts store and picked up a set of two sockets they had. Get home and yep, neither socket in the package fits this particular locking nut diameter. Out comes the air grinder and I start shaving that stupid nut down until I could just start to get an old impact socket on and beat it into place with a hammer. At this point I was willing to sacrifice a socket since I'm spending over an hour just trying to get the wheel off. But it worked and finally that dang lock nut came off with some help from the impact.
Next is to unbolt the caliper which was easy enough with a little help from PB Blaster and that revealed the offending old pads. Sure enough the inboard pad was worn down to the metal plate and the outboard one looked almost new.
Now I'm checking the slide pins and they are both stuck and not sliding at all. So that was the problem causing abnormal pad wear. the slide pins were all gunked up and stuck in place preventing the caliper from relaxing away from the rotor. I cleaned up the slide pins and cleaned out the holes in the mounting bracket the slide into. Put on a little lube and they slide in and out like new.
So in order to fit the new pads on rear discs you have to compress the piston back into the caliper and with integral parking brake the piston has to be compressed while also being turned. Thus far when doing this job I have resorted to various red neck methods of compressing the piston with a c clamp while turning it with some channel locks. On this car that became extremely awkward and by this time I'm ready for a better solution so a quick printing of a 20% off HF coupon and run down to the local Harbor Freight to buy one of their caliper service tool kits. It's surprisingly well made for HF stuff.
Finally something that made the job easier and I'll use it many times in the future without the old struggle factor mixed in because I was too cheap in the past to buy the right tool for the job.
After many hours on what should have been a 1 hour job I finally got the right rear done. Next will be the task of working on the left rear.
Now you may wonder about rotor damage and to my surprise it was not that bad and this is really a temporary fix for the short time left this summer that I will use this car. I plan to install a performance brake upgrade before next summer with new rotors and hi performance pads. This fix will get be by until that happens.
Attachments
1/2 Cup
Member Emeritus
AV - Welding Cart 2.0 Upgrade
After converting the last AV cart I brought home to a welding cart I really liked the idea a lot and after using it a couple times it worked well. The first cart was a little big for my small garage and could have used an extra shelf.
So I had the chance to pick up another one at auction a couple weeks ago for a whopping $5. And got to looking at it and decided it was an definite upgrade. Three shelves, slightly smaller footprint and, made of stronger angle iron construction than the previous model.
So far I've just done a quick transfer of welding items but will definitely add some tool styled hanger brackets for welder cables and clamp storage.
Until I find yet the next cart upgrade this one will do nicely.
rmalkow, the cart looks the goods
At five dollars thats a steal
Regards
1/2 Cup
Member Emeritus
rmalkow
rmalkow you took the words out of my mouth, new rotors and pads are the way to go.
Mustang Brake Job - Simple right?
Last week while driving to work I suddenly started hearing that dreadful metal on metal noise typical of a brake pad that has worn down to the steel backing plate. I had to limp it home at the end of the day and vowed to put some new pads on the rear brakes over the weekend. It was specifically on the right rear. While it did strike me as odd this would happen I thought it could be a quick easy fix. I only bought this car late last summer and have not driven it too many miles and I remember the previous owner saying that the brakes and tires were really new to the car so it seemed odd this would happen so soon. That should have been my first clue this would be a bigger job than normal.
First issue arises, getting the wheel off. I remove the center cap from the wheel and SURPRISE! The car has wheel locks. A little fact the prior owner never told me about and did not give me a lug key for. Of course I went straight to You Tube for a solution and saw various references to using a 12 point socket hammered onto the outside of the special lug to then turn it free. A search through all my regular and spare sockets and just my luck that I had nothing close to fitting this locking nut. Internet idea number 2 is to buy some special reverse thread generic removal sockets, so off to the parts store and picked up a set of two sockets they had. Get home and yep, neither socket in the package fits this particular locking nut diameter. Out comes the air grinder and I start shaving that stupid nut down until I could just start to get an old impact socket on and beat it into place with a hammer. At this point I was willing to sacrifice a socket since I'm spending over an hour just trying to get the wheel off. But it worked and finally that dang lock nut came off with some help from the impact.
Next is to unbolt the caliper which was easy enough with a little help from PB Blaster and that revealed the offending old pads. Sure enough the inboard pad was worn down to the metal plate and the outboard one looked almost new.
Now I'm checking the slide pins and they are both stuck and not sliding at all. So that was the problem causing abnormal pad wear. the slide pins were all gunked up and stuck in place preventing the caliper from relaxing away from the rotor. I cleaned up the slide pins and cleaned out the holes in the mounting bracket the slide into. Put on a little lube and they slide in and out like new.
So in order to fit the new pads on rear discs you have to compress the piston back into the caliper and with integral parking brake the piston has to be compressed while also being turned. Thus far when doing this job I have resorted to various red neck methods of compressing the piston with a c clamp while turning it with some channel locks. On this car that became extremely awkward and by this time I'm ready for a better solution so a quick printing of a 20% off HF coupon and run down to the local Harbor Freight to buy one of their caliper service tool kits. It's surprisingly well made for HF stuff.
Finally something that made the job easier and I'll use it many times in the future without the old struggle factor mixed in because I was too cheap in the past to buy the right tool for the job.
After many hours on what should have been a 1 hour job I finally got the right rear done. Next will be the task of working on the left rear.
Now you may wonder about rotor damage and to my surprise it was not that bad and this is really a temporary fix for the short time left this summer that I will use this car. I plan to install a performance brake upgrade before next summer with new rotors and hi performance pads. This fix will get be by until that happens.
rmalkow you took the words out of my mouth, new rotors and pads are the way to go.
jon72vega
Well-known member
Way to go on the welding cart, and great price!
rmalkow
rmalkow you took the words out of my mouth, new rotors and pads are the way to go.
Possibly new calipers too. I want to upgrade all the brakes but am still doing a bit of internet research and shopping before plunking down the cold hard plastic to make an order. Looking at various makers of drilled and slotted performance rotors.
Anyone got specific suggestions?
1/2 Cup
Member Emeritus
rmalkow, I am sorry I cant really help much there, as you say some research before you buy won't hurt.
Regards
taumac
Well-known member
Nice job on the AV cart. That is same construction I think as my and I really like mine just as much as you will like yours.
Seems like Murphy came to visit you on that brake job. You know that we all many many times didn't but the right tool for the job but we also gotten smarter over the years than wasted time and frustration isn't worth it. I done the rear brake thing also and ended up going to AutoZone and using the loan a tool and said to myself HEY ******* why didn't you do that the first time. LOL
As far as the brakes are you on any Mustang forums? I would guess those would be the guys to talk to. How crazy you plan to get with the upgrade? What's your plans for the car. It's it going to be daily driver or do you have other plans?[emoji6]
Seems like Murphy came to visit you on that brake job. You know that we all many many times didn't but the right tool for the job but we also gotten smarter over the years than wasted time and frustration isn't worth it. I done the rear brake thing also and ended up going to AutoZone and using the loan a tool and said to myself HEY ******* why didn't you do that the first time. LOL
As far as the brakes are you on any Mustang forums? I would guess those would be the guys to talk to. How crazy you plan to get with the upgrade? What's your plans for the car. It's it going to be daily driver or do you have other plans?[emoji6]
Oh ya, I asked myself the "HEY *******" questions at least a couple times during that job. The older I get the more I finally realize the value of spending a little to have the right tool, save time, prevent unwanted damage to parts or myself. I thought of the borrow/rent a tool as well but the HF price was not too bad and I have this car and then my truck to do yet so I will use it multiple times.
I have read some threads on Mustang forums and other testimonials of different brands. The upgrade will not be too crazy or expensive. I can't afford Wilwood but there are various brands that are better than stock and won't require a second mortgage. The car is my summertime daily driver and I just want to give it a little better braking performance than stock.
Grumblebum
Well-known member
That looks like a nice solid little cart RM. Great price tag too
I've got no idea about the mustang calipers and rotors but I'm sure there is a performance kit available to suit ? Is there a pic of the car ? I'll have to flick back a few pages I case I've missed it.
GB.
I've got no idea about the mustang calipers and rotors but I'm sure there is a performance kit available to suit ? Is there a pic of the car ? I'll have to flick back a few pages I case I've missed it.
GB.
That looks like a nice solid little cart RM. Great price tag too
I've got no idea about the mustang calipers and rotors but I'm sure there is a performance kit available to suit ? Is there a pic of the car ? I'll have to flick back a few pages I case I've missed it.
GB.
Thanks GB. The Mustang is on page 10, post 189. Bought it last year and this is my first full summer driving it.
There are a lot of performance choices available so my task now is picking one that is good quality and fits the budget. Good study material for the snowy winter ahead I guess.
Here's the latest addition to the garage which better fulfills the Hot Rod part of my motto. I brought this home this past Monday evening. It's a 1929 Ford Roadster project that I've been watching advertised for quite some time now and finally went to look at in person. I realized it is almost exactly what I had in my head for my own project when finished. But, the big difference is this one is 90% complete and my project is t least 2 years away from completion. Through a partial trade for another vehicle I had for sale I was able to bring this baby home. It runs and drives fine, All the big stuff is done, brakes work, etc. It just needs finishing of exterior lights wiring, fitting of doors with proper latches and a trunk latch. A few other minor tweaks and it will be road ready for next spring.
This has been a life long dream and I am very excited about it.
It's an all steel original 1929 Roadster body built on a new manufactured kit frame and suspension. 350 Chevy Small Block engine with Turbo 350 transmission and Ford 8 inch rear end.
Here's some photos starting with a couple general shots.
Engine view.
Original style steel wheels, powder coated red with new trim rings and caps.
The grille is a reproduction 1932 shell with a new aluminum radiator.
The interior is very simple which is to my taste. I will add some door trim panels eventually. The first upgrade is already started to replace the ugly GM steering wheel with a vintage Ford wheel I had previously purchased for my project.
And a view of the rear trunk lid which has the original inner piece with a new metal skin that has been louvered. Nice vintage hot rod touch.
All in all it's put together in the old school style I was going for and I will enhance that look over time with some smaller additions that keep with the period correct appearance while offering modern function.
This has been a life long dream and I am very excited about it.
It's an all steel original 1929 Roadster body built on a new manufactured kit frame and suspension. 350 Chevy Small Block engine with Turbo 350 transmission and Ford 8 inch rear end.
Here's some photos starting with a couple general shots.
Engine view.
Original style steel wheels, powder coated red with new trim rings and caps.
The grille is a reproduction 1932 shell with a new aluminum radiator.
The interior is very simple which is to my taste. I will add some door trim panels eventually. The first upgrade is already started to replace the ugly GM steering wheel with a vintage Ford wheel I had previously purchased for my project.
And a view of the rear trunk lid which has the original inner piece with a new metal skin that has been louvered. Nice vintage hot rod touch.
All in all it's put together in the old school style I was going for and I will enhance that look over time with some smaller additions that keep with the period correct appearance while offering modern function.
Attachments
taumac
Well-known member
Wow, that's awesome. One question and gonna put on my flame suit for this... your gonna put a Ford motor and trans in there?
1/2 Cup
Member Emeritus
rmalkow what a jaw dropper.
Just awesome..
Just awesome..
jon72vega
Well-known member
Here's the latest addition to the garage which better fulfills the Hot Rod part of my motto. I brought this home this past Monday evening. It's a 1929 Ford Roadster project that I've been watching advertised for quite some time now and finally went to look at in person. I realized it is almost exactly what I had in my head for my own project when finished. But, the big difference is this one is 90% complete and my project is t least 2 years away from completion. Through a partial trade for another vehicle I had for sale I was able to bring this baby home. It runs and drives fine, All the big stuff is done, brakes work, etc. It just needs finishing of exterior lights wiring, fitting of doors with proper latches and a trunk latch. A few other minor tweaks and it will be road ready for next spring.
This has been a life long dream and I am very excited about it.
It's an all steel original 1929 Roadster body built on a new manufactured kit frame and suspension. 350 Chevy Small Block engine with Turbo 350 transmission and Ford 8 inch rear end.
Here's some photos starting with a couple general shots.
Engine view.
Original style steel wheels, powder coated red with new trim rings and caps.
The grille is a reproduction 1932 shell with a new aluminum radiator.
The interior is very simple which is to my taste. I will add some door trim panels eventually. The first upgrade is already started to replace the ugly GM steering wheel with a vintage Ford wheel I had previously purchased for my project.
And a view of the rear trunk lid which has the original inner piece with a new metal skin that has been louvered. Nice vintage hot rod touch.
All in all it's put together in the old school style I was going for and I will enhance that look over time with some smaller additions that keep with the period correct appearance while offering modern function.
rmalkow2,
Your new Hot Rod is SWEET!
Boy would I ever like to do that. The engine/trans combo was a big trade off I had to make from my original plans. I have the Ford small block and 4 speed set aside but it would be a big tear up to this car to change the out. So for now I'm just going to enjoy it with the existing drive train. The two big benefits here were saving years of build time and $$$ of future cost so I had to make some concessions. I will be doing a few tricks to this to make it more "old school" even with the chevy engine.
rmalkow what a jaw dropper.
Just awesome..
rmalkow2,
Your new Hot Rod is SWEET!
Thanks all for the compliments guys. I will now be very anxious for next spring to come so I can get this on the road.
Grumblebum
Well-known member
Beautiful mate, congratulations
GB.
GB.
taumac
Well-known member
Well finish it up and at some point you change it later. I agree have some fun and enjoy it. That is a kick *** ride even with the chevy engine.
Winter Is Coming
Well it's that time of year when the mostly open garage floor gets filled with those items that need inside storage for the winter. Every year it takes a new perspective on what is most important to fit the available space. The Mustang for sure and now the new Hot Rod plus tool boxes and important tools that cannot be outside. And there has to be one small space near the main garage door that is reserved for the snow blower.
So I've been playing garage tetris the past two weekends. Putting parts and tools away in their proper place and making tough decisions about what can stay in this garage. I do have a picture in my head how this will work, now the work is required to make that a reality.
First step was to move out my folding cherry picker that will go in shed storage and created space for the new Lyon tool cabinet to fit along the back wall.
Next was to change out my main grinder stand. For years I've had my 1/2 hp Craftsman block grinder on this heavy cast iron stand that was the base of a cream separator from my grandpa's farm. A bit overkill for a block grinder but it served the purpose. Earlier this year I picked up a good stand from a local picker and it makes a better grinder stand. Solid enough to do the job but light enough that I can move it around to use. The cast iron cream separator will go into winter storage and next year will become the new stand for my recently purchased English Wheel. It should be a good marriage.
Now at least I have that spot created by the main door for the snow blower to live for winter duties. Plus a little more organization and improvement of tool use.
Oh ya, the Harley definitely gets priority for inside storage too.
Well it's that time of year when the mostly open garage floor gets filled with those items that need inside storage for the winter. Every year it takes a new perspective on what is most important to fit the available space. The Mustang for sure and now the new Hot Rod plus tool boxes and important tools that cannot be outside. And there has to be one small space near the main garage door that is reserved for the snow blower.
So I've been playing garage tetris the past two weekends. Putting parts and tools away in their proper place and making tough decisions about what can stay in this garage. I do have a picture in my head how this will work, now the work is required to make that a reality.
First step was to move out my folding cherry picker that will go in shed storage and created space for the new Lyon tool cabinet to fit along the back wall.
Next was to change out my main grinder stand. For years I've had my 1/2 hp Craftsman block grinder on this heavy cast iron stand that was the base of a cream separator from my grandpa's farm. A bit overkill for a block grinder but it served the purpose. Earlier this year I picked up a good stand from a local picker and it makes a better grinder stand. Solid enough to do the job but light enough that I can move it around to use. The cast iron cream separator will go into winter storage and next year will become the new stand for my recently purchased English Wheel. It should be a good marriage.
Now at least I have that spot created by the main door for the snow blower to live for winter duties. Plus a little more organization and improvement of tool use.
Oh ya, the Harley definitely gets priority for inside storage too.
Attachments
don long
Well-known member
If you need more room, why don't I lend a helping hand and come and get that old half breed ford and store it in my garage I know that I could find a corner to shove it into lol
Very nice grab
Very nice grab
Karl's Garage
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 13, 2016
- Messages
- 100
Very nice!
taumac
Well-known member
Don, that real generous of you. I really think that you should let me store in down here if FL for the winter. Weather is going to great to drive and enjoy it down here. You can come down and visit it at the big FC gathering at end of January. At that point Dan and yourself could use some warm FL weather.