Good eye. Yes it's a HF cart I bought many years ago. At the time is was the best I could afford and cheap on sale. The only complaint I could have is the casters they provided are not the best and it tends to roll hard when weighted down. I should really just replace the casters but have not taken the time yet. Otherwise it has done the job.
2 Sluggo's Garage
- Thread starter rmalkow2
- Start date
Good eye. Yes it's a HF cart I bought many years ago. At the time is was the best I could afford and cheap on sale. The only complaint I could have is the casters they provided are not the best and it tends to roll hard when weighted down. I should really just replace the casters but have not taken the time yet. Otherwise it has done the job.
With all the new trailers around the house and yard now I finally broke down and picked up one of these dollies from HF.
I had thought a long time about making my own from scrap steel or making one of those add on pieces for a moving dolly. But in the end they had theirs on sale and I had just received one of those 25% off coupons to boot. So it just turned out easier to buy one. I was sold the first time using it to move my 6 x 12 trailer around the driveway and my back thanked me for not having to lift the trailer tongue weight.
Sometimes just making your life a little easier around the garage, while not an exciting project is worth it in the long run
I had thought a long time about making my own from scrap steel or making one of those add on pieces for a moving dolly. But in the end they had theirs on sale and I had just received one of those 25% off coupons to boot. So it just turned out easier to buy one. I was sold the first time using it to move my 6 x 12 trailer around the driveway and my back thanked me for not having to lift the trailer tongue weight.
Sometimes just making your life a little easier around the garage, while not an exciting project is worth it in the long run
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I always end up storing various parts and lesser used items in plastic tubs around the garage and basement. I try to keep them to a minimum inside the garage but it seems inevitable to have a few around. But when heavily loaded the challenge is always to find the corner that is least used because it's a pain to lift and move them. Right now I only have 4 total in the garage but with a timely HF coupon I decided to save my back some pain. Got a coupon for the small wooden 11" x 14" movers dollies @ $7.99 each and bought the limit for use in the garage and basement. Now if I ever need to quickly move storage tubs out of a specific area it's only rock and roll, and I do like it!
Simple, cheap and does the trick.
Simple, cheap and does the trick.
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I got this latest idea from the Homemade Tools Thread reading about one member making a vertical shop light stand. I realized I had all the parts required for a simple version of that idea sitting in the garage and with just 30 minutes of time I could have a very functional shop tool.
I bought this nicely painted display rack at auction some months ago for $5 and had intended to make a steel rack or something out of it but did not have the right feeling about cutting it up just yet so it has sat in the garage waiting for the right purpose.
The horizontal hanger pieces will be saved for some future purpose as all I need is the upright back and floor legs.
The first job was to permanently fix the floor legs to the upright so a couple drilled holes and self tapping screws through both tubing walls did the trick.
The other piece of this project that has been lying around the garage is an old 2 bulb overhead 4 foot light. I've sort of propped it up in various spots to plug in when some extra light was needed but it was never stable. So I laid the new stand on the back of the light housing and using some existing mounting tabs on the light I double tie wrapped the light housing to the stand at all four corners.
Now I have a free standing large light source that can provide good horizontal light and is very portable. It will be nice to position this anywhere inside our outside the garage space without looking for something to lean the light fixture against.
Let there be light!!!
Thanks once again to good ideas from the GJ!
I bought this nicely painted display rack at auction some months ago for $5 and had intended to make a steel rack or something out of it but did not have the right feeling about cutting it up just yet so it has sat in the garage waiting for the right purpose.
The horizontal hanger pieces will be saved for some future purpose as all I need is the upright back and floor legs.
The first job was to permanently fix the floor legs to the upright so a couple drilled holes and self tapping screws through both tubing walls did the trick.
The other piece of this project that has been lying around the garage is an old 2 bulb overhead 4 foot light. I've sort of propped it up in various spots to plug in when some extra light was needed but it was never stable. So I laid the new stand on the back of the light housing and using some existing mounting tabs on the light I double tie wrapped the light housing to the stand at all four corners.
Now I have a free standing large light source that can provide good horizontal light and is very portable. It will be nice to position this anywhere inside our outside the garage space without looking for something to lean the light fixture against.
Let there be light!!!
Thanks once again to good ideas from the GJ!
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1/2 Cup
Member Emeritus
Wow, now that's a neat idea with the light stand, funnily enough I have just taken two down when I demolished my carport so I they will now have a new purpose in life thanks for sharing.
Great progress to date on the garage rearrangement and storage solutions, they feel a much nicer place to work in when things are in their place. I am not sure wether its my OCD manifesting it self but I find myself forever looking a new ways to arrange stuff to make it wok better.
I am a big fan of having things mobile like you have done with your dollies.
How have you found your draw liners? as I am looking at ideas for my fabrication bench, I hope to finish my draws this week.
Regards
Great progress to date on the garage rearrangement and storage solutions, they feel a much nicer place to work in when things are in their place. I am not sure wether its my OCD manifesting it self but I find myself forever looking a new ways to arrange stuff to make it wok better.
I am a big fan of having things mobile like you have done with your dollies.
How have you found your draw liners? as I am looking at ideas for my fabrication bench, I hope to finish my draws this week.
Regards
Thanks for the compliment 1/2 Cup but I take no real credit for the light as I saw the idea on GJ from another person and then it clicked in my brain that I had the necessary components to build it. That's what I like so much about this forum is the launchpad ideas I get.
For draw liners I ended up re-purposing some rubber yoga mats that I had acquired some time ago and no one in the family ever used for yoga. But they were basically the same thing you buy at the tool store for drawer liners. Look back on page #6.
For draw liners I ended up re-purposing some rubber yoga mats that I had acquired some time ago and no one in the family ever used for yoga. But they were basically the same thing you buy at the tool store for drawer liners. Look back on page #6.
With all the hand tools I seem to acquire from garage sales and auctions I like to clean up any of them and restore them to former glory. I realize some antiques should be left with the patina they have from years of use but, some tools are just plain neglected and become dirt or rusty. To me, that condition does nothing to enhance value or use, so with many tools I like to clean them up better than new if possible.
My favorite with rusty hand tools is to soak them in Evapo-Rust and then after rinsing off and drying I take them to the wire wheel for a final polish, For most steel tools the Evapo-Rust leaves a dark gray oxide coating that polishes up pretty nice with a wire wheel. Here are a couple recent examples. An old Ford DBE wrench that will polish up to a nice satin/shiny appearance and a K-D auto door trim pliers tool that was pretty full of surface rust but buffs up nicely. In the pics you can see the old versus new appearance as I did half of each tool.
My favorite with rusty hand tools is to soak them in Evapo-Rust and then after rinsing off and drying I take them to the wire wheel for a final polish, For most steel tools the Evapo-Rust leaves a dark gray oxide coating that polishes up pretty nice with a wire wheel. Here are a couple recent examples. An old Ford DBE wrench that will polish up to a nice satin/shiny appearance and a K-D auto door trim pliers tool that was pretty full of surface rust but buffs up nicely. In the pics you can see the old versus new appearance as I did half of each tool.
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1/2 Cup
Member Emeritus
What sort of wire wheel do you use? I struggle to get a finish like that on stuff that is in similar condition.
They have come up nicely, well done.
They have come up nicely, well done.
1/2 Cup, Up till now I've just been using a coarse 5 inch plain wheel which you can see from the picture is finally worn out to end of life. I just purchased a replacement that is coarse steel but with a bronze coating so I'll see if that make any difference. In reality I attribute the fairly shiny result to the oxide coating formed by the Evapo-Rust chemical. It seems to leave this dark gray to almost black coating on rusty steel and then polishes up nicely with the wire wheel. I have not yet tried to polish by hand further than this as I like the finished appearance. But I have had tools setting out in my house for some weeks now with no other coating on them and don't see signs of rust re-appearing.
Evapo-rust is not cheap but does a great job, is water soluble, bio-degradable and has no toxic smell so I can let items soak in my basement work room when the outside temps are cold. So far I've been willing to pay for these side benefits.
Old wheel ready for replacement:
New wheel yet to be installed:
Evapo-rust is not cheap but does a great job, is water soluble, bio-degradable and has no toxic smell so I can let items soak in my basement work room when the outside temps are cold. So far I've been willing to pay for these side benefits.
Old wheel ready for replacement:
New wheel yet to be installed:
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1/2 Cup
Member Emeritus
Thanks for the reply, your old 5 inch looks like mine so I will be replacing it in due course. It will be interesting to see how your bronze coated one goes?
I must try Evapo-Rust at some point.
I have also been pretty keen to try an electrolysis set up as well, I have access to some redundant 40 watt solar panels that would be just ideal for that application.
Regards
I must try Evapo-Rust at some point.
I have also been pretty keen to try an electrolysis set up as well, I have access to some redundant 40 watt solar panels that would be just ideal for that application.
Regards
taumac
Well-known member
I was waiting your reply also cause I had same question as 1/2 cup. Ever think of doing a comparison of same wrench with and without evaporust? Ive use this wheel
not sure if its considered a fine or course wheel and I knotted wire wheel but never got the shine you got. I also wonder if a brass wire wheel would polish it up? I know Herb used a brass on chrome and steel on stuff the wasn't. Interesting stuff for sure. Oh btw what rpm is that wheel turning? I wonder if rpm makes a difference in polishing effect?
Taumac, Very good questions all and now you've got my interest peaked for a little experimentation. The final result and level of shine seems to be somewhat affected by the original steel type I think. At least this is my best guess as I do see a difference in the oxide color from tool to tool after soaking for a couple days. That tells me possibly the age of the tool and type of steel used may react differently to the Evapo-Rust. Some older wrenches seem to shine a bit more after the wire wheel. You will see in the next picture a sampling of other tools. The three wrenches (Old Ford, a Bonney and Vlcek) all ended up with a slightly brighter matte silver shine. Hard to see in the pic maybe but you get the general color and gloss idea. The two screwdrivers were done differently. The top one was pretty rusty so I soaked it in Evapo-Rust. The bottom one had only select areas of pitting so I just cleaned it on the wire wheel, no pre-soak. To me they ended up with the same coloration and level of shine.
So I've really been using the Evapo-Rust just on tools that had a fair amount of rust to contend with as it is not cheap. I do like the result however so I consider that a benefit paid for. But I think there are still questions to be answered so I will look for a couple wrenches that are the same vintage and do one without soaking and one with soaking to see how they come out.
Also, I will have to figure out my wire wheel rpm as I'm not sure to be honest except to say "pretty fast". This is an old motor/arbor/pulley size my dad cobbled together many years ago and I inherited it and have used it ever since. I never questioned what he made I just used it.
The final factor I think effects the end result is wire wheel condition. As my wheel continued to wear and get shorter and shorter bristles I think the level of shine was affected. It seemed to me a little harder to get the same end result I'm used to. So I'm anxious to change to the new brush and see of the bronze coated/steel bristles have any effect.
So I've really been using the Evapo-Rust just on tools that had a fair amount of rust to contend with as it is not cheap. I do like the result however so I consider that a benefit paid for. But I think there are still questions to be answered so I will look for a couple wrenches that are the same vintage and do one without soaking and one with soaking to see how they come out.
Also, I will have to figure out my wire wheel rpm as I'm not sure to be honest except to say "pretty fast". This is an old motor/arbor/pulley size my dad cobbled together many years ago and I inherited it and have used it ever since. I never questioned what he made I just used it.
The final factor I think effects the end result is wire wheel condition. As my wheel continued to wear and get shorter and shorter bristles I think the level of shine was affected. It seemed to me a little harder to get the same end result I'm used to. So I'm anxious to change to the new brush and see of the bronze coated/steel bristles have any effect.
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taumac
Well-known member
I suggest that best method to answer some of these questions is to dip only half the wrench in the solution and leave other as is. Then wire wheel it cause it would be same metal type. Could also do the same with E-tank setup. That point it could be same wheel, same steel and see if a difference occurred.
On the machine you use see if the motor plate has any rpm info on it. If so measure the dia of drive pullie and arbor pullie if same then the wire wheel is spinning at same rpm as motor. If arbor pullie is larger then its slower and if smaller than spinning faster. Like a ex I have a old compressor. Motor turns at 1725 and has a 4in pullie. The compressor head has a 13 in flywheel.
13 divide by 4= 3.25 this is my ratio. I then divide 1725 by the 3.25 and come up with 530. This is rpm of compressor head. Sorry if you already know that but as long as you know the motor rpm the math is the same. Good luck and look foward to this experiment.
On the machine you use see if the motor plate has any rpm info on it. If so measure the dia of drive pullie and arbor pullie if same then the wire wheel is spinning at same rpm as motor. If arbor pullie is larger then its slower and if smaller than spinning faster. Like a ex I have a old compressor. Motor turns at 1725 and has a 4in pullie. The compressor head has a 13 in flywheel.
13 divide by 4= 3.25 this is my ratio. I then divide 1725 by the 3.25 and come up with 530. This is rpm of compressor head. Sorry if you already know that but as long as you know the motor rpm the math is the same. Good luck and look foward to this experiment.
1/2 Cup
Member Emeritus
The big issue I have when you get a new wire wheel is breakage of the bristles and the finish is all marred with brush lines, it looks like ****.
I am using an 8" grinder that would run, I am guessing at 1440 rpm.
View media item 38849
I do have another unit that I built 30 years ago that is mainly used for polishing but I can still fit a wire wheel to it.
It has a 1/3 hp 2 speed washing machine motor 1440/2880 rpm which I can also change the pulleys and belt on to rev it up so to speak.
View media item 38943
The trouble with using wire wheels at those speeds is that you need to be real careful and use full PPE as the bristles break and you tend to get showered so its not used a lot for that application.
I am interested to see how your new wheel goes.
Apologies for hijacking your thread.
I am using an 8" grinder that would run, I am guessing at 1440 rpm.
View media item 38849
I do have another unit that I built 30 years ago that is mainly used for polishing but I can still fit a wire wheel to it.
It has a 1/3 hp 2 speed washing machine motor 1440/2880 rpm which I can also change the pulleys and belt on to rev it up so to speak.
View media item 38943
The trouble with using wire wheels at those speeds is that you need to be real careful and use full PPE as the bristles break and you tend to get showered so its not used a lot for that application.
I am interested to see how your new wheel goes.
Apologies for hijacking your thread.
taumac
Well-known member
1/2 cup Those some wierd rpm numbers. Typically, the norms over here are 1725 and 3450. The wire I showed is on grinder spinning at 3450 I wanted to make a set up to spin something slower like 1725 and see what happens. Very true with any wire wheel you have to wear glasses or full shield.
1/2 Cup
Member Emeritus
Those RPMs are standard stuff out here, bear in mind we are at 240 vac and 50 htz.
Cheers.
taumac
Well-known member
Yep, I totally forgot about that.
Taumac,
Don't apologize for giving out good info or good math. I know I should remember all that stuff but don't always. I've become a product of my environment I guess and rely more on the web and less on memory. Anyway that's where I ended up with this simple calculator and a result of 3450 RPM.
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The big issue I have when you get a new wire wheel is breakage of the bristles and the finish is all marred with brush lines, it looks like ****.
I am using an 8" grinder that would run, I am guessing at 1440 rpm.
With a good 8 inch size wheel I suspect the surface speed is still up there pretty good.
I do have another unit that I built 30 years ago that is mainly used for polishing but I can still fit a wire wheel to it.
It has a 1/3 hp 2 speed washing machine motor 1440/2880 rpm which I can also change the pulleys and belt on to rev it up so to speak.
Wow! A double wide wheel. You definitely want your protection on with all those bristles spinning in front of you.
The trouble with using wire wheels at those speeds is that you need to be real careful and use full PPE as the bristles break and you tend to get showered so its not used a lot for that application.
I definitely wear a full face shield and glasses when using this wheel. You can feel the bristles occasionally flying out and I generally also have an extra coat on as well. But eye protection is the first concern for sure.
I am interested to see how your new wheel goes.
Apologies for hijacking your thread.
I hope to get the new wheel put on this week yet between family get togethers and bowl games and eating more goodies. No hijack here. I appreciate the combined learned knowledge.
Good suggestion. I will try that half-n-half soak idea. I have used the E-Tank method on larger parts before and need to do the same for wrenches and tools. I have an extra battery charger and need to rig up a smaller size tank someday. I also want to try the vinegar method too.
Thanks much, bcos. It's definitely a process!
HaHa, ok that's where I stop with the math. I can only keep track of my side of the world.
Martin XJ
Well-known member
Hi just read your thread, like it, I too do a similar thing with old rusty tools, well anything rusty really, but instead of using expensive Evapo Rust I use a mixture of 1 part molasses to 9 parts water does the same thing but takes a little longer, look it up on the net.
Martin
My thread http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=271477
I too do a similar thing with old rusty tools, well anything rusty really, but instead of using expensive Evapo Rust I use a mixture of 1 part molasses to 9 parts water does the same thing but takes a little longer, look it up on the net. Martin
My thread http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=271477
taumac
Well-known member
Happy New Year. Best in 2015.
Hi just read your thread, like it,
Martin
Thanks for this reminder. You know I've heard about using molasses before but forgot that idea. It's another one I will have to try out someday.
Trailer Wheel Resto
My recent purchase of a 6x14 enclosed trailer needs some new tires and currently has a set of mis-matched wheels and tires. But the PO had given me an extra set he was using as spares. The tires were shot and the wheels were very rusty but matched in styling so I was hoping to save them and reuse. My first stop was to take them to my local media blast guy but he said given the original finish was power coat he would spend too much time per wheel and charge me more than they were worth. He recommended scrapping them and buying new ones. Well that automatically goes against my nature. Even though they had a lot of rust pitting they seemed solid and after getting the old tires removed the bead sealing area was clean and smooth. So rather than scrap them I thought it a worthy project to try and save them myself. I'm using Rustoleum and Krylon paints and they may not last forever but I hope to get quite a few years use yet.
I currently have one completed and here were the steps used.
Wheel #1 with tire previously removed and rusty areas partially cleaned with a cup style wire brush on my new Bosch compact 4" grinder. I scraped the large chunks off and then wire brushed the wheel on both sides. And yes the inside of the wheel was worse than this.
Next was to coat all rusted areas with a couple good coats of Permatex rust treatment which turns rust to a black oxide coating and does a pretty effective job of slowing down or preventing rust from forming again.
Letting that treatment dry for a day the next coat was a couple coats of Krylon gray primer. To keep with the low budget theme here the primer was a previous GS purchase. Full can for $1 rather than $4-5 new. Again the inside of the wheel was painted the same.
After letting the primer coat dry completely next came 3 coats of Rustoleum gloss white. Also another $1/can GS purchase last summer. Since I'm not in any big hurry and do not have a way to bake or speed up drying I just gave this final coat a few days to thoroughly dry.
Just for fun I thought I'd use this opportunity to brush up (so to speak) on any pin striping skills I used to have. I love the art of pin striping but have not done anything even simple for many years. I still had some blue Painters One Shot that was usable and with the help of an old lazy susan from a TV stand I was able to get a fairly consistent stripe on the wheel. Letting the little finger run in the inner groove of the wheel as a guide and slowly spinning the lazy susan. It's a little shaky in spots but I made it all the way around without varying the stroke width too much. It was fun to try this again but I definitely need lots more practice.
Now on to the second wheel and repeat the whole process so I can get new tires mounted. They won't be as pretty and smooth as new wheels but I'll have some satisfaction of knowing I did my own work rather than just buying new.
My recent purchase of a 6x14 enclosed trailer needs some new tires and currently has a set of mis-matched wheels and tires. But the PO had given me an extra set he was using as spares. The tires were shot and the wheels were very rusty but matched in styling so I was hoping to save them and reuse. My first stop was to take them to my local media blast guy but he said given the original finish was power coat he would spend too much time per wheel and charge me more than they were worth. He recommended scrapping them and buying new ones. Well that automatically goes against my nature. Even though they had a lot of rust pitting they seemed solid and after getting the old tires removed the bead sealing area was clean and smooth. So rather than scrap them I thought it a worthy project to try and save them myself. I'm using Rustoleum and Krylon paints and they may not last forever but I hope to get quite a few years use yet.
I currently have one completed and here were the steps used.
Wheel #1 with tire previously removed and rusty areas partially cleaned with a cup style wire brush on my new Bosch compact 4" grinder. I scraped the large chunks off and then wire brushed the wheel on both sides. And yes the inside of the wheel was worse than this.
Next was to coat all rusted areas with a couple good coats of Permatex rust treatment which turns rust to a black oxide coating and does a pretty effective job of slowing down or preventing rust from forming again.
Letting that treatment dry for a day the next coat was a couple coats of Krylon gray primer. To keep with the low budget theme here the primer was a previous GS purchase. Full can for $1 rather than $4-5 new. Again the inside of the wheel was painted the same.
After letting the primer coat dry completely next came 3 coats of Rustoleum gloss white. Also another $1/can GS purchase last summer. Since I'm not in any big hurry and do not have a way to bake or speed up drying I just gave this final coat a few days to thoroughly dry.
Just for fun I thought I'd use this opportunity to brush up (so to speak) on any pin striping skills I used to have. I love the art of pin striping but have not done anything even simple for many years. I still had some blue Painters One Shot that was usable and with the help of an old lazy susan from a TV stand I was able to get a fairly consistent stripe on the wheel. Letting the little finger run in the inner groove of the wheel as a guide and slowly spinning the lazy susan. It's a little shaky in spots but I made it all the way around without varying the stroke width too much. It was fun to try this again but I definitely need lots more practice.
Now on to the second wheel and repeat the whole process so I can get new tires mounted. They won't be as pretty and smooth as new wheels but I'll have some satisfaction of knowing I did my own work rather than just buying new.
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1/2 Cup
Member Emeritus
The wheels have come up a treat, nice to see stuff reused like that. Well done.
One of our our big box stores is now stocking Rustoleum products out here, looking forward to using it.
My other secret desire is to master the art of pin stripping, you have done well.
Regards
One of our our big box stores is now stocking Rustoleum products out here, looking forward to using it.
My other secret desire is to master the art of pin stripping, you have done well.
Regards
xtremek
Well-known member
The engineer in me loves to see things reused instead of chucked in a landfill or even recycled (better than a landfill). Nice job and considering the roughness of the finished surface, a nice job on the pinstripe. Very well done. I can send you 4 more wheels if your bored. lol
Thanks 1/2 cup. I'm a long way from mastering the pin striping but if we don't start somewhere we will never make any progress. I love the art of it and would like to get better so I guess practice on my own junk is a good way.
xtremek, I appreciate the offer but I'm not bored yet.
I still have one more to do myself for the trailer and then there are 5 more wheels for the next project in line after this one. 1940's vintage Ford steel wheels destined for my hot rod project.
xtremek, I appreciate the offer but I'm not bored yet.
I still have one more to do myself for the trailer and then there are 5 more wheels for the next project in line after this one. 1940's vintage Ford steel wheels destined for my hot rod project.HSpencer
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Great job on the wheels. I like to see these type of things restored. Too much good stuff goes to the land fills. Thanks for posting this.
Best Regards
Herb
Best Regards
Herb
taumac
Well-known member
It's great you got to reuse the rims.
It's been a long time since posting mainly because the cold of January, February and March have just left me un-inspired to work in the garage. Did a few things in the basement shop that I'll have to catch up on here. Now that we finally have weather in the 40's and 50's on certain days I'm starting to revive the garage and get outdoors.
Winter also took its toll on the garage space. Because if you can't work in the garage you might as well buy more project stuff and fill it up, right? More on that later too.
I have enjoyed living vicariously through everyone else on GJ that has stayed busy all winter. Now to get my **** in gear.
Winter also took its toll on the garage space. Because if you can't work in the garage you might as well buy more project stuff and fill it up, right? More on that later too.
I have enjoyed living vicariously through everyone else on GJ that has stayed busy all winter. Now to get my **** in gear.
1/2 Cup
Member Emeritus
Boy am I glad that spring is finally trying to break out around here. Winter (Feb and March) was brutal with the cold and snow. I really did not get any garage projects done during the last few months. And every time my garage door opened the snow blew in and somehow magically transformed into cabinets, steel tubing, tools, a drill press, sets of Mustang tires and assorted other things that could be useful in the long run or re-sold for some profit. But the result was a filled up garage again. For now I've been able to move most of it outside and out of site until I can tackle individual restorations. So technically I could get one car in there if necessary.
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taumac
Well-known member
That doesn't look too bad at all I'm so looking forward to doing some of my restorations too. I been doing the building of garage, putting things in final place and figuring usage for each. Hopefully you can use some instead of resale. I can't say I've ever did that. I usually buy for personal use. I can say I don't have the patience to sale on CL to make few bucks. I know many do well at it.
Some I definitely plan to use as part of the master plan. I've been watching for some old metal automotive style cabinets for a long time. So when CL sale came up this winter I had to grab them at a good price. But they will need body work and paint to be usable again. They will eventually replace some old kitchen cabinets I now have on one wall. I will also use the steel tubing for other projects and plan to restore the old Delta DP to either keep or give to a family member. The "good" deals just caught up to me this winter and stuff accumulated faster than I could work through it. I guess that means plenty of summer projects ahead.
I agree selling on CL is sometimes a PITA but I take my time with it and usually find a buyer eventually. Sometimes its educational to get the pricing right.
Truck Brakes Rebuild
My poor old friend, 1995 Ford F150, has been sidelined since last fall with a bad case of rusty brake lines. First the rear brakes were lost due to a line section near the rear axle rusting through. I was able to seal off the leak along the frame rail and continued to use it locally just on front disc brakes. Until last fall when the left front brake line rusted through. So home it came to sit all winter and get snowed in next to my garage.
Finally the snow has melted enough for me to get the truck out of its resting place.
And park it in front of the garage opening where it waited for warm enough days to get worked on.
This past Easter weekend I finally got started with a goal of completing the front system and restoring the front brakes. Getting the old lines out turned out pretty easy since they were so rusty they just broke off at the different junctions. The only one that came off with a wrench was at the master cylinder.
In the beginning I had hoped to keep the old calipers but they were pretty bad too and I could not get the bleeder fittings loose so off they came.
It was a good thing I think because when I drained the old fluid out of them it came out dark and dirty and looking pretty nasty.
That just left the rotors with only some minor surface rust that cleaned up with the wire brush and brake cleaner. The pads were like new as well and just needed cleaning.
New parts coming next!
My poor old friend, 1995 Ford F150, has been sidelined since last fall with a bad case of rusty brake lines. First the rear brakes were lost due to a line section near the rear axle rusting through. I was able to seal off the leak along the frame rail and continued to use it locally just on front disc brakes. Until last fall when the left front brake line rusted through. So home it came to sit all winter and get snowed in next to my garage.
Finally the snow has melted enough for me to get the truck out of its resting place.
And park it in front of the garage opening where it waited for warm enough days to get worked on.
This past Easter weekend I finally got started with a goal of completing the front system and restoring the front brakes. Getting the old lines out turned out pretty easy since they were so rusty they just broke off at the different junctions. The only one that came off with a wrench was at the master cylinder.
In the beginning I had hoped to keep the old calipers but they were pretty bad too and I could not get the bleeder fittings loose so off they came.
It was a good thing I think because when I drained the old fluid out of them it came out dark and dirty and looking pretty nasty.
That just left the rotors with only some minor surface rust that cleaned up with the wire brush and brake cleaner. The pads were like new as well and just needed cleaning.
New parts coming next!
Attachments
Truck Brakes Rebuild
Over the winter I had ordered a complete pre-bent hard line kit and then purchased the flex lines and calipers at the local O'Reilly. The brake line kit was made very well and almost identical to factory original. The bends in the master cylinder line and the one that crosses under the engine were basically perfect. I only had minor tweaking by hand to get them to fit the frame.
Rotor surface cleaned and new calipers on with all lines installed. I almost felt like a real shop getting to use all new parts from top to bottom.
To complete the job before putting the wheels back on. All the touch points between the steel wheel and the rotor/hub surface got the wire brush and then a coating of anti-seize paste. After sitting all winter I had a dickens of a time getting the wheels to break free from the hubs so that problem should not happen again.
It's a great feeling to once again be productive out of my little garage space and complete part of a badly needed repair. The next free warm weekend will be to tackle replacing all the brake lines for the rear wheels.
Over the winter I had ordered a complete pre-bent hard line kit and then purchased the flex lines and calipers at the local O'Reilly. The brake line kit was made very well and almost identical to factory original. The bends in the master cylinder line and the one that crosses under the engine were basically perfect. I only had minor tweaking by hand to get them to fit the frame.
Rotor surface cleaned and new calipers on with all lines installed. I almost felt like a real shop getting to use all new parts from top to bottom.
To complete the job before putting the wheels back on. All the touch points between the steel wheel and the rotor/hub surface got the wire brush and then a coating of anti-seize paste. After sitting all winter I had a dickens of a time getting the wheels to break free from the hubs so that problem should not happen again.
It's a great feeling to once again be productive out of my little garage space and complete part of a badly needed repair. The next free warm weekend will be to tackle replacing all the brake lines for the rear wheels.
Attachments
Warmer day yesterday so after work I was able to spend some time in the garage doing a bit more organizing. One of the much needed jobs was to sort out a bin of nuts and washers that had become to deep to be useful when looking for a particular size. I had picked up these two Klein parts trays at auction awhile back and began sorting and a little organizing. I think I like this presentation better making it easier to find what I need.
They will both get filled before I'm done.
They will both get filled before I'm done.
