200 amp. ?

[700jfm]

Is the cable you pulled in marked RHH, XHHW, etc? URD(Sweetbriar) is sort of a common trade name around here. The power co. uses one type of URD(definitely not allowed in homes), but what we use is dual rated as RHH also.

I would be very surprised if yours wasn't also the dual rated type as I can't see an electrical supply house selling the power co. version to electricians wiring homes.

It's not the dual rated. The manufacturer said that they make the cable that can run in contuit in the attic. But mine is not it. He also said that the insultion on any of their burial cable is more mils. then any house ran wire or cable. But that won't stop anyone from cutting it or driving a nail in it. So that's a good reason to me to do it right.

 

[mrb]

It's not the dual rated. The manufacturer said that they make the cable that can run in contuit in the attic. But mine is not it. He also said that the insultion on any of their burial cable is more mils. then any house ran wire or cable. But that won't stop anyone from cutting it or driving a nail in it. So that's a good reason to me to do it right.

The big reason for the different types of cable is flame spread. Some of the underground only cable, the insulation will burn like a fuse. That is why its not allowed to enter the structure.

You need to go have words with the people at the electrical supply counters who told you this was all ok.

If you want to post in detail here what you plan to do before you do it, we would be happy to take a look at it first.

Glad to hear you will be re doing it.

 

[walrus]

Re: 200 amp. Update ?

Ok Cable update: After researching, and calling the manufacturer (who did not have a problem with it in the attic as long as the terminations were outside) I have decided to pull the cable and put it in the ground where it belongs. I just could not take the chance that someone could possibly cut into the cable or some other mishap after I am gone, most likely my own family, since I plan to live here until I die. So the new plan is to mount the boxes I have at the corner of the garage and put a junction box where the meter is now to keep the termination of the aluminum cable outside(something to do with arching), bury the cable, and add a ground wire to bond the boxes. I have not told my son yet as I figure he will quit on me. I guess I will buy him a free steak dinner and break the news in public while he is eating.

Good for you

 

[700jfm]

The supplier did not recommend the cable, he at first just sold me what I asked for. I used the material list I got from the electrician. That's what I get for cheating. When I later had concerns is when he said it would work. (I can't blame him) But I would been mad if I payed the $2,600 to the electrician and then found this out. So with a little labor and $100.00 bucks for the ditchwitch I think it will be all good.

 

[mrb]

make sure the conductor you add for the ground is rated for direct burial. And remember, all the conductors have to be together. You cant run this cable, then run a thwn ground in a pipe for example

 

[700jfm]

I"m going to run the cable in 2" cpvc conduit. Are you saying not to put the ground wire in the conduit?

 

[Charles (in GA)]

I"m going to run the cable in 2" cpvc conduit. Are you saying not to put the ground wire in the conduit?

No, he just means they all have to be together, whether in the pipe or not, keep them together, if you bury three, you have to bury all four, if you pipe one, you have to pipe all four. Required by code.

Charles

 

[mrb]

if you direct bury the cable, make sure you get a wire type that is rated for direct burial for your ground.

dont forget, you cant enter the structure with this type of cable, so you need to come out of the ground into a box, then transition to something else to enter the house.

 

[walrus]

if you direct bury the cable, make sure you get a wire type that is rated for direct burial for your ground.
.

They make cable for different soil types? I'd back fill around the cable with sand if it was me.

At least you can do this today, at my house you'd be shoveling a couple of feet of snow off the ground before trying to dig frozen dirt

 

[700jfm]

if you direct bury the cable, make sure you get a wire type that is rated for direct burial for your ground.

dont forget, you cant enter the structure with this type of cable, so you need to come out of the ground into a box, then transition to something else to enter the house.

I was going to get a direct bury ground and some kind of transition box to keep the termination outside. I will put it on the wall where the old meter is now, and I'll use the copper cable that's going from the old meter to the inside house breaker box ( I think it should be long enough) to connect the new transition box. What size ground do you think I suould use?

 

[700jfm]

They make cable for different soil types? I'd back fill around the cable with sand if it was me.

At least you can do this today, at my house you'd be shoveling a couple of feet of snow off the ground before trying to dig frozen dirt

We had 1" of snow this year, the last time was 2003 and it was 1/2"

 

[mrb]

They make cable for different soil types? I'd back fill around the cable with sand if it was me.

At least you can do this today, at my house you'd be shoveling a couple of feet of snow off the ground before trying to dig frozen dirt

HA! i meant for the grounding conductor- make sure its rated for direct burial -dont throw thhn in the trench

 

[700jfm]

What do I do with the ground wire from the new 200 amp. service box? Do I just bond it to the ground bar and that's it. Can I put a ground lug at the bottom of the grounding bar? this box will be the sub. It is a 200 amp. box also. before I bury the cable. is the 4/0 4/0 2/0 AL with #6 or #8 (I still have to buy the ground) going to work with the load my house is pulling?

 

[mrb]

You need to make sure you dont have a neutral-ground bond in this panel once it becomes a sub panel. The grounds need to be on a busbar that is bonded to the can, and the neutrals need to be on a busbar that is isolated from the can. This is very important.

Also, only one neutral wire per screw.

 

[700jfm]

Re: 200 amp. ? update

Ok we got the cable and the ground wire in 2" conduit. (It's 18" deep) I rented a ditch-witch it worked great I ended up diging about 400' of trench. 135' for the cable, and 265' for a water line to a pasture. $107.00 for 4 hours. I had it back in 3 hours. Now before I go any further I have a question. After doing a search and adding up amperage I'm not sure that the feed through breaker box is going to be enough. My home is all electric, It 2,800sf. I have a heat pump A/C system, 220v water well, 120v aerobic septic system (with a small air pump that runs 24/7) 220v hot water heater, And all the outher things that a home has. I know that it would be rare that all these thing would be on at one time. But will I have enough for the garage? Now for the new meter box. I plan to use two 2/0cu and one 1/0cu for neutral. Would 3/0 be overkill? I have 2/0 and 1/0 already but I want to do it right.
Now for a personal note, I like to thank eveyone for their help. I know that I my be in a little over my head, but if I had to do it all over again I would.
I may start off on the worng foot sometimes, but in the end I get the steps down.

 

[dipper]

IMHO 200A might be enough just for the house, adding on a shop with welders and such might force you to 400A then split it to 200a for the house and 200a for the barn.
I have a 200A service in my basement then feed 100A to the garage. House is pretty much all gas appliances too.