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2003 Toyota Avalon A/F Sensor Replacement

signcrafter

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May 9, 2012
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12,359
I totally get it. I learned a long time ago (I'm 66) that sometimes you got to let your pride go. My pride has cost me $$$ in the past and California cars don't have too many issues with rust.
I'm the exact opposite. I just keep going and learn the hard way. Buy more tools. If it breaks you deal with it and learn how to drill and tap or whatever it takes. Eventually you run into enough situations where you accumulate enough tools and skills to do almost any thing you run into.
 
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cherrybomb

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Oct 18, 2016
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890
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Near Madison Wi.
Maui, it looks like you have an idea that will work.I.M.O it needs more steel for more beef.When you slice an opening for the wires,it will get considerably weaker.Post #73 by Jonesg shows Tekton's answer.If you beef yours up,cut the slot and weld a nut on as a drive mechanism, try it,its only time,what the heck?
 
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Maui

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Sep 16, 2012
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Upstate NY
Maui, it looks like you have an idea that will work.I.M.O it needs more steel for more beef.When you slice an opening for the wires,it will get considerably weaker.Post #73 by Jonesg shows Tekton's answer.If you beef yours up,cut the slot and weld a nut on as a drive mechanism, try it,its only time,what the heck?
I won't be slicing an opening for the wires. There isn't any need to. The wiring harness connector fits easily through the hole right now. All I have to do is pull the connector through it and get the tool onto the hex nut on the A/F sensor to loosen it up. The MAJOR problems with the tools made for removing these oxygen sensors is that their fit on the sensor is pretty sloppy and the tool flexes way too much. I machined it so the fit is excellent. And since I will not slot it, it won't flex.
 

2ndGearRubber

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Mar 24, 2014
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Pittsburgh
I won't be slicing an opening for the wires. There isn't any need to. The wiring harness connector fits easily through the hole right now. All I have to do is pull the connector through it and get the tool onto the hex nut on the A/F sensor to loosen it up. The MAJOR problems with the tools made for removing these oxygen sensors is that their fit on the sensor is pretty sloppy and the tool flexes way too much. I machined it so the fit is excellent. And since I will not slot it, it won't flex.

Not all connectors are small enough to pull through the hex. That's why the cut is there. Sometimes you need to remove, but aren't replacing, such as replacing an exhaust pipe.
 

cherrybomb

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Oct 18, 2016
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Near Madison Wi.
Maui ,I'm happy and convinced you have got this problem figured out.If you don't have to slice it,that is a real positve.Now how do you plan on the drive part.You've made this an interesting thread by your perseverance to solving a problem,the make it in my own workshop way
 
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Maui

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Sep 16, 2012
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2,864
Location
Upstate NY
Thanks cherrybomb. I plan on machining down the socket head quite a bit from what you see in the photo I provided. On the end where you can see the V slot I plan to machine it out so that it has a U slot there instead (a little remnant of the "V" shape taper will still remain at the outside far end of the opening). On the handle I'll machine the mating piece so it fits well into the U slot and then drill one hole crosswise through the 3/4" thickness on both the socket head and the handle section inserted into the U slot and join them together with a hardened pin (or maybe bolt). That way the handle can pivot in and out and still torque the head directly. I may put a bend into the handle for leverage and clearance purposes - not sure about that yet. Does what I described make sense?
 
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captmoto

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Apr 29, 2007
Messages
364
I'm the exact opposite. I just keep going and learn the hard way. Buy more tools. If it breaks you deal with it and learn how to drill and tap or whatever it takes. Eventually you run into enough situations where you accumulate enough tools and skills to do almost any thing you run into.
Yeah, I get it, it's rare that I give up, I've got tools I forgot why I even bought them. There are people out there that know way more than I do so I try to learn from them.
 

Steve_P

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Sep 15, 2010
Messages
5,184
I'm like others and rarely give up- buy more tools (typically in advance, as a just in case), break out the welder, OA torch, etc. But it depends on your workspace, abilities, whether you have a spare vehicle to use when something goes wrong, etc. If you're a semi beginner with nothing but a propane torch, basic hand tools, working in the driveway, it's 15F, or raining, or.... and you need the car Monday morning to get to work, then yeah, $100 is a bargain for this job. Know your limitations, pick your battles wisely, and move on to other things.

As far as a home-made tool for this job, heat treated alloy steel may be necessary instead of ~A36 mild steel.
 
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Maui

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Joined
Sep 16, 2012
Messages
2,864
Location
Upstate NY
I'm like others and rarely give up- buy more tools (typically in advance, as a just in case), break out the welder, OA torch, etc. But it depends on your workspace, abilities, whether you have a spare vehicle to use when something goes wrong, etc. If you're a semi beginner with nothing but a propane torch, basic hand tools, working in the driveway, it's 15F, or raining, or.... and you need the car Monday morning to get to work, then yeah, $100 is a bargain for this job. Know your limitations, pick your battles wisely, and move on to other things.

As far as a home-made tool for this job, heat treated alloy steel may be necessary instead of ~A36 mild steel.
I will be case hardening this wrench head. And it’s not A36.
 
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Dakotadadv8

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May 30, 2021
Messages
1,483
Different vehicle 16 year old PU truck in rust country replaced all 4 02 sensors with OEM. 2 came off easily with Snap on 02 sensor tool. The other 2 removed tire, liner, cut the wires, PB Blaster for 3 days, heat with shield/aluminum foil, repeat, 1/2 drive universal joint, 7/8 deep socket, 24 inch breaker bar. Patience is the key all hand tools, may need to remove stuff for access.
 
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