



The estate sale gods were smiling on me today. My wife and I went to a sale in Danville, CA this morning. I wanted to be there at the very beginning because I had seen a couple of likely looking boxes in the sale photos. We were a little late but fortunately didn't miss out on the treasures. The attached pictures show the lightly used and complete Plomb 3/8" and S-K 1/4" drive sets.
More pictures to follow.
-Don







That TL-29 is a govt issue electricians knife. First thing I always filed the blade dull on the side of the screwdriver.Finally able to post pics of yesterday's gathering.
3x Armstrong 21-505 1.5" Impact sockets, 3/4" dr
Nicholson (partial) needle file set
Camco TL-29 (has bakelite or plastic scales, so not too old)
Phillips No. 2 stubby 1-1/8" blade
4.5" flat tip
Unmarked (Irwin or Federal) heavy duty screwdriver. Grips held on w/tape, so will likely remove and attempt to replace the nail heads
WHB CHROM-VANADIUM Pat. Germany water pump pliers. OOPS!
Looked up the patents on the stubby 2046837 and 2046840. Nothing terribly exciting, but I don't remember seeing patents on a screwdriver shank before. Guess the driver is older than I first thought, since the MFR took time to mark the shank:
http://www.datamp.org/patents/displayPatent.php?number=2046837&typeCode=0
http://www.datamp.org/patents/displayPatent.php?id=12384

hi all, looks like everybody is picking up some nice stuff. i had a sale i was going to look into but was going to get there a little late and it was in an area that i had to figure out how to get there and avoid the big march this morning. after all that, i drove up and there were still 20 guys standing out front! f-that. checked a sale that i seen yesterday and it was close to the freeway so decided to stop in. 2nd day half off, slim pickens. did find a few pliers, i'd never heard of "red devil" and these railroad lights, don't think they'll work.
pliers today too! https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6973616#post6973616It's not the wrench I expected to see, Outlaw, but I am still going with BHM. They are the only mfgr that was using that composition as a branding nomenclature, and the style that I am used to seeing (with an art deco X shank) did not have the BHM name on them either.Lugz, Here are some closeups
Woke up this morning and saw a pair of Lista cabinets. Seller was asking $450. I offered $300 and he countered with $350 which I accepted.
It was about an hour each way. He helped me load them up (these are impossible for one man to load)
All drawers work perfectly. One has a dent in the side that I’ll push out. I had to remove all the drawers so my son and I could unload and while it’s apart I’ll clean and lubricate everything.
One cabinet has a mechanism to prevent more than o e drawer to be open at a time. Once I figured that out it was easy to remove all the drawers.
He also threw on a set of anti slip liners. Most are already cut to size.
These came out of a commercial print shop maintenance Dept and have a smell of grease which should go away once I wipe everything down.
Then on the way back I passed a ReStore and picked up a Bell System brace for $1. There is a white crust that formed on the handles that scraped off easily. It’s a no 210 made by Yankee.
I made a small detour coming home and stopped at an estate sale and picked up a pile of stuff for another $40.
Dunlap 5176 vise
4 conductor cross connect cable
Box of wasp spray
IKEA lamp base
Self adjusting wrench
Two sprinklers
Lenox saw
Glass white spray paint
40,000 staples (8 boxes of 5000)
7 solder spools
Red Phone
Bunch of solvent wipes
Lubriplate
Triplett 310d meter with leads
3 sesamee locks with combos
Wb lock
Klein linesman pliers
Punch down tool
Wire stripper knife and scissors
It's not the wrench I expected to see, Outlaw, but I am still going with BHM. They are the only mfgr that was using that composition as a branding nomenclature, and the style that I am used to seeing (with an art deco X shank) did not have the BHM name on them either.


...
When you're using Google Books to search for digitized historical documents (books, journals, magazines, etc) and you find one that is locked, showing you a Snippets View only, with snippets that contain your search terms, you can request the Google Books team unlock the book, by following these steps...
(1) Copy the URL of the book from your browser. You will need to paste it later.
(2) Underneath the snippet(s), click on the Where is the rest of this book? link.
(2) That will take you to a How to Use Google Books page. Scroll down to the Fix Common Problems section. Click on the You can't see the full book link.
(3) That will expand into a list of bullets. Click on the last part of the bullet that reads, “If you think the book is available in the public domain in your country, ask us to review it.”
(4) That will open a Your Google Books Inquiry page with a form on it. Fill out the form. First name, email address, URL of the book, and page number or range (of the snippets your search terms are showing up in…). For the ‘Categorize your issue’ options section, you can check the I’d like to see the entire book, and I believe the book is in the public domain or Other.
I have better results with Other and filling in the How can we help you? line with something like “I’d like to see page 89, 219 and 320.”
More times than not, even when I request certain pages, I get the whole book. Note that I get plenty of rejections, too, though. It's hit and miss.
In a week or so, sometimes several weeks, you'll get a very formal email making you feel like an important researcher informing you if it has been unlocked or not. If so, they will provide a link to the unlocked book in the body of the email.
I was thinking same thing. Economy line. Cool marking with the italic font.
Matt I just noticed the wrench in a re-post.
I'm assuming it is a Masterench by Heller Brothers? I have five in 8 & 10 inch and a couple of 14's with pipe jaws.
I like em! I keep a couple in my camp gear as you are not likely to round anything over with these! the harder you pull the harder they grip!
I would like more sizes if I can find them. I wonder if they made a 4"?![]()

ALL: it's hard keeping up with all of you, but great to see all the activity. don't you guys know its JANUARY?
i picked these up maybe last year and i can't recall posting them cause i just shoved them into my storage unit waiting till I found a spot for them. I've got a gap to fill, but i'm sure that won't be an issue.
metal cabinet tetris at it's best and these old Shaw Walker cabinets are built to last too.
i'll start buying tools again as soon as I get ORGANIZED. in fact for the next few months I'll be picking at Drivesitfar's storage for some stuff i forgot i bought. not that any of you ever do that. or do you?![]()
Forget?? Me? Never!! I remember every single item. Now, where did I put my wallet........
That happened to me today! I had layered shirts on and I thought I'd put in in the vest pocket of the in er shirt. I went for it and NO WALLET! Momentary panic
before I realized it was in the outer shirt pocket! MARTY: thanks and i knew i like the cabinets and just needed a place to use them. the bench is made out of Liberty Ship WWII hatch that i found sitting on a cart i bought a few years ago.
it's only a 3/4 3600 RPM, but it can take your arm off. i'm going to put a deburring wheel on one end and use my plethora of Craftsman blocks for wire wheels and other wheels so i don't have to change wheels when doing a project.
Swing and Outlaw: yep i can relate, but haven't had a lot of just SENIOR MOMENTS LATELY.
CF: nice story and i've maybe owned 5 of these and i've had to let a few go. I usually see them made up as a coffee table, but in case you never saw the picture of one on the Liberty I think this is one. also few more better pics of my Ship hatch.
here's the story i found in case you've got a few minutes
HISTORY OF LIBERTY WWII SHIP HATCHES
With a little work this would be a great piece of furniture or collector’s item.
Ever wonder where the term "batten down the hatches" came from? Or wondered what one of these "hatches" looked like? Well, here you will see and possibly have for your very own the last true wooden hatch covers made specifically for the World War II Liberty Ships. These wooden hatch covers covered the cargo holds of the war materiel being sent both to Europe and the Far East and as fighting cargo ships they were instrumental in supplying our troops and were found in all of the naval invasions and battles in both theaters of the war.
To "batten down the hatches", there was first a long sheet of thick waterproof canvas stretched tight across the open cargo hold. Then these wooden hatch covers were placed tightly side by side across top of the canvas. Lastly a "batten" which is a long heavy pole made of wood or steel, was then laid across the top of the hatch covers. Each end of the batten was then tightly secured to prevent it from moving off of the hatch covers.
This was the only thing preventing the heavy seas from gaining entry into the cargo holds and sinking the Liberty Ship!
In general, all of these hatches are approximately 59.5" long x 29" wide x 2.5" thick, weighing 90lbs and consists of 3 rough cut pine boards. Though rare sometimes only 2 pine boards were used, and sometimes the dimensions varied such as some hatch covers measured 26.5" wide.
Each hatch cover has 2 thick metal bands wrapped around the ends of each hatch and secured with rivets. If you ever wondered what "Rosie the Riveter" did this is a perfect example of WWII riveting. Sometimes instead of rivets large counter-sunk flat-head industrial wood screws were used. These hatch covers actually had a patent associated with them which is recorded at the US Patent and Trademark Office. Though rare, the patent no. is sometimes found on these securing metal bands.
Each Liberty Ship Hatch Cover also has a securing metal rod located in the center of the hatch going through all three pine boards and riveted. This was to stabilize and help keep the heavy boards from warping. The boards themselves were separated from each other by a .25 to .50" wide gap which allowed for expansion swelling when wet due to salt water.
Each hatch cover also has a 4.5" x 2.75" handle scoop cut out of each opposite end with a 7.5" x 1" metal handle secured across the top of the scoop with rivets. These grips allowed the sailors and deck hands to either manually lift them off or onto the ship's hatches, or in most cases they used hooks from a crane to do the lifting.
All of the metal used on Liberty Ship Hatch Covers was some sort of zinc-based or galvanized steel since you will never see them really getting rusted at all. We have seen brass used for the handles, but this is exceptionally rare and quite handsome after restoration as the golden brass really sets off the weather pine.
Swing and Outlaw: yep i can relate, but haven't had a lot of just SENIOR MOMENTS LATELY. [emoji3]
.

CF: i still have another one, but my bride has her eyes on it for me to make her something out of it.
now you know what to look for i bet you'll find one. if you want go in your GJ profile you can put in your location city/state or area like i did so some of the guys might know if they could offer trades without shipping costs if that interests you.
also while you are in there click on AVATAR and you can download a picture to show up under your CF name like my Bison made out of old scraps and tools does.
i've seen a few of these ship hatches just sitting outside in the rain and there is barely any wood left that isn't missing or rotten which is a little sad.
I think it was a j75281pThe Proto LA is interesting: completely round socket and holes for a pit so I'm thinking the pin is missing and its a drive socket for something?![]()
Ive got a few where the date seems interrupted by some of the other lettering.MattBlast, NICE score on those Listas!
fowldarr, how old is your Kennedy box? Seems to be nice condition.
I hit the local flea today, and pulled out these items:
- PLVMB 15/16" 12pt socket (C code). When was this made?
I've looked around for production dates on the PLVMB, but the 1942 production was 2-letter date codes, and 1948 was when they started marking as Proto, so....not sure what to make of it.
This might help, I'd look for something out of place and before the COutlaw, thanks for posting those. It's not the same as any of those, though it's probably closest to the 1942. Only the C, no other code alpha-numerics; my understanding was that the '42 required a 2 digit code; I'm still learning my way around, so may well be wrong about that.
Thanks again,
Steve