first off its 120/240 in the US
I am NOT dis-agreeing ... I find it interesting that up until the 80s (?), it was common for electric dryer to have a 3 prong cord and a 120V timer and light bulb. Same with electric stoves. 120V light bulbs, timers and convience outlets.
Up until the adoption of the 1996 NEC it was permitted to ground the frame of clothes dryers, & cooking equipment, to the neutral of that equipment, it is still permitted in existing installations, thankfully that went away, but should have happened 40 years prior.
Good luck with that ! Old dryer, new outlet ... New cord !
Most common way to screw things up is when someone brings the high leg off a 240V 3 phase service, which on a straight 240V load is fine, but a appliance where a neutral is required it will cause nothing but grief since the high leg is a nominal 208V, sending 120V into the neutral will cause similar problems, there used to be a lot of people asking how to use American dryers in the 50 HZ world where 220/230/240 volts (depending on the country) is a line to neutral voltage & the only way it could be run is with a transformer, by center tapping it to get 120/240V which makes the low price paid for the dryer evaporate real quick & still does not take care of the frequency issues. Things are easy to screw up everywhere.
its pretty simple actually. the appliance frame was grounded through the neutral. there was no ground wire. which can be potentially dangerous....
you can feel the capacitance when you run your hand along the paint while it's running, too. can feel this on a lot of old things, actually.
GFCI protection is required, and 2 pole GCFI circuit breakers are not cheap, The 2020 NEC as it is adopted more & more will make the use of 2 pole GFCI's more common, though.
You would still need (2) hots with a neutral and a ground to wire that receptacle correctly
Not sure what the point was in leaving this here. Did you wire it with a 4-wire circuit? If not, then you wired it incorrectly.
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