28x40 3 Car Barn/Garage Build Thread

[Hondaracer2oo4]

I am going to post all of the pics I have so far. I will go back and edit each set later.

 

[bikesandcars]

Is this a combo footer / stem wall?

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[Hondaracer2oo4]

You can see one of the small stem walls between the doors broke off. The foundation guy didn't run rebar up into each of these small sections from the rest of the frost wall which I think he should have. He came back and drilled 6 holes into the frost wall below. Ran to u shaped pieces of rebar into the holes and then ran two one inch threaded rods into the two other holes and extended them out the top of where the top would be. Formed around it and repoured it. Ultimately it is probably stronger than the other one now. Wish he had just done it right. Water under the bridge now.

 

[bikesandcars]

Just curious, Why no rebar footer to stem walls? I thought that was required

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[Hondaracer2oo4]

Walls

 

[jpcjguy]

Thanks for starting the thread. I am looking at a similar size 36x30 with 12ft walls for a lift and debating a second floor - somewhere around 8/12 or 9/12 pitch. How tall is yours?

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

More walls and joists

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

rafters

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

Roof sheathing and end wall.

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

More end walls

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

Furring strips for siding and Trenches

 

[jpcjguy]

Great looking garage! Can you give some details on the I-joists dimensions? How is the "bounce" on that 28 ft. span? Anything you would have done differently so far?

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

Boiler and Pad

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Looks phenominal!

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

Siding

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

Floor

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

More Floor

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

Roof, Cupola and Floor done

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

Is this a combo footer / stem wall?

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No, footer was done first, then frost walls poured on top.

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

Just curious, Why no rebar footer to stem walls? I thought that was required

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Not common for rebar to tie down to the frost walls in my region, it is common to key the footer though and then pour the walls. My guy didn't key it, I wasn't that happy about it but it is old school and he has been doing it for a long time without issue so I'll lean on that.

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

Thanks for starting the thread. I am looking at a similar size 36x30 with 12ft walls for a lift and debating a second floor - somewhere around 8/12 or 9/12 pitch. How tall is yours?

12 foot interior ceilings. Pitch is 10/12.

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

Great looking garage! Can you give some details on the I-joists dimensions? How is the "bounce" on that 28 ft. span? Anything you would have done differently so far?

The I joists are 16 inchers. They are rated to take 63 psf at that span. If you jump up stairs you will get a little deflection but you old have an apartment up there and just walking around you don't feel any deflection.

As far as different so far I would consider maybe going 30 deep. That just changed how much dirt work I had to do. I think I'm still going to be happy with 28. I thought about that one long and hard before I went with 28.

 

[jpcjguy]

The I joists are 16 inchers. They are rated to take 63 psf at that span. If you jump up stairs you will get a little deflection but you old have an apartment up there and just walking around you don't feel any deflection.

As far as different so far I would consider maybe going 30 deep. That just changed how much dirt work I had to do. I think I'm still going to be happy with 28. I thought about that one long and hard before I went with 28.

I am planning on 30 deep - mainly because a friend has 28 and with my excursion or his crew cab in the lift bay and toolboxes on the end wall, there is not a ton of room all the way around - hence the 30 feet. Only thing is that is quite a free span - I was thinking doing the attic truss - but looking at yours has me thinking.....

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

I would go rafters if I were you. I used 20 footers. 22 footers would work for you. The 16 inch I joists are rated to span I think 32 feet at 40 psf which is the minimum amount code allows for living space above. You would be fine at 30. I am putting a lift I. The bay and I know I won't have a ton of room with the tool box at the front with my crew cab up but I don't plan on using it for a business or anything, just maitanence and fun. I would go 30 feet though if you have no issues.

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

Thanks for starting the thread. I am looking at a similar size 36x30 with 12ft walls for a lift and debating a second floor - somewhere around 8/12 or 9/12 pitch. How tall is yours?

Total height to peak? I think somewhere in the 25 foot range. I know my 32 foot ladder at full extension reaches just below the peak but the ground is lower than the interior floor height on that side.

 

[Kaizen]

Do you remember the cost for those roof rafters? Also contemplating the truss vs rafter


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[bikesandcars]

Great post! Thanks for sharing

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[Hondaracer2oo4]

They are 2x10x20. I payed 18.80 each.

 

[Pluribus]

Looks like a great shop build! Interesting configuration with the I-joists and rafters. What drove this design vs. the attic trusses I see more often? Like the door on the end for the upper level. Is that to lift stuff up there, or will you be putting some sort of deck on there?

Spent quite a bit of time in your part of the country and miss it; it's a beautiful area!

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

I did I joist and rafters for a few reasons. The shop is going to be insulated and heated. It's hard to insulate the trusses in the ceiling. Easy to insulate the I joists with batts. Second reason was I wanted full depth for storage right down to the soffit. With the trusses you only get usually a 12 foot wide area. Lastly I think I joists and rafters make a stronger building. Th door on the end with the beam above it will be for hoisting stuff that I can't get up the interior stairs. I plan to put a pulley on a rail on the beam so that I can haul it up and then pull the pulley back towards the building.

I cut the relief cuts in the concrete tonight with the concrete guy. Went with more or less 9x9 squares. hopefully it will crack on those joints and no where else. Time will tell.

 

[KDXSR5]

Looking forward to more updates. Thanks for sharing!

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

Floor poured Monday, cut the control joints Wednesday night. I picked up the transom Windows and the square barn Windows. I painted those today, got the last corner board up, freeze board on the backside and one of the square Windows installed and trimmed out. I'll post more pics soon.

 

[jpcjguy]

sounds like you are making great progress!

 

[TimNY1984]

If you don't mind me asking do you have a breakdown on foundation cost or any other costs of the build? I'm looking at almost the exact same thing except only a 2 car garage extra deep (turned 90°). Did you think about losing the I joists and going with a center beam and 2x10's? Actually with a lift in that orientation I guess it would be in your way. Your build looks great, thanks for the pics! Any current updates?

Tim

 

[tstaude]

I may have missed it, but what kind of siding is that? Was it already red when purchased?
The reason I ask is that you are building almost exactly what I am looking at building in the next year or so, I may go for Gambrel trusses.

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

Just gettings back to the thread, I have more pics Ill post soon.

If you don't mind me asking do you have a breakdown on foundation cost or any other costs of the build? I'm looking at almost the exact same thing except only a 2 car garage extra deep (turned 90°). Did you think about losing the I joists and going with a center beam and 2x10's? Actually with a lift in that orientation I guess it would be in your way. Your build looks great, thanks for the pics! Any current updates?

Tim

Foundation cost was $1500 for dirt work labor, that included digging the ditch for the frost walls, leveling it for the footing, backfilling the foundation and filling and compacting the center for the floor to be poured. The frost walls which was 4 foot high on 12 inch wide footings was $5000. Then the floor which is 4 inches thick(not inlcuding the mesh) was $2500. The mesh was $225 extra that I layed down.

I wanted free span, open space with no steel or carrying beams down to the floor etc. The I joist are from Boise Cascade. They are 16 inch deep model 90XLs. They have a live load rating around 60 psf at my 28 foot span. They were $97.43 each after some negotiating with the supply house. That cost $3118 for the 32 I needed(stair well I need one extra for doubling up). Rim board was an additional $313. Looks like 60 2x10x16 is around $1000 bucks. They are only live load rated to 50 psf at 14.5 feet using doug fir select structural. Now add in the Steel beam at 40 feet(try to get that thing up IE renting a crane!) plus carrying the load down to the foundation ect. I probably could have saved maybe $500 bucks? Not worth it to me when I now have free span, Lots of insulation space in the 16 inch depth I joist and 60 psf live load.

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

I may have missed it, but what kind of siding is that? Was it already red when purchased?
The reason I ask is that you are building almost exactly what I am looking at building in the next year or so, I may go for Gambrel trusses.

The side is Kiln Dried Pine 1x12 Shiplap siding. The siding came raw from the building supply house. It was planed smooth on one side(the side I used facing out) and rough on the other so you could choose what look you wanted. I stained it with a Solid Stain. I used Olympic Navajo Red after seeing it on another local building with the same ship lap pine. I talked to the owner and he has restained 3 times in 33 years. So I thought if it was holding up that well that I would get the same results. Could I get any longer with a Ben Moore or Sherwin williams solid stain? Probably not. I stained the wood on saw horses before I put it up. I stained all six sides. One coat on the back side, two on the other 5 sides. I didn't want to have an stain failure issues, I really wanted it to take well. Everyone I talked to said that covering all sides is the key. It took 26 hours with a roller to stain all 2000 board feet of siding. I did it with a roller, I was going to spray but figured I would have to backroll it anyway and I would lose tons of stain to overspray.

Im not a gambrel guy so thats why I went with the 1 1/2 story look. Also the trusses make you lose a lot of storage space down to the soffit area. I might go that route though if I was doing a gambrel because of the more complicated rafters.

 

[jpcjguy]

Do you have some pics of how you did your staircase?

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

Yeah, Give me an hour and I will post all the update pics.

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

Stairs. If I were to do it again I would add a fourth stringer. I think it would have stiffened it up some. I didn't want a mid span knee wall to help shore it up(which it needed, very bouncy). So I added that hanging brace between midspan and the I joist above. That took 90% of the bounce out. I then lagged the stringer closes to the wall into on of the Studs. This took another 5% bounce out. Just barely any movement now. If it was living space above and you went up and down the stairs all day I would do something else but it is totally fine for a garage. I went with a 10 inch tread and a 8 5/16 rise. I was worried it was to much because I was getting away from the 17 1/2 inch rule but also for a garage it works fine. I also didnt want to add a fourth step after the landing and a turn which would bring the stairs even further out into the garage space. This was a happy compromise.