2post lift concrete
- Thread starter rummy2894
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wssix99
Well-known member
You will need a minimum pad size to resist tipping forces and then a minimum thickness to provide proper embedment for the anchor bolts. All of these specifications and minimums are different for each lift design and provided by the manufacturer.
If you are putting a two post lift in a little building, you should plan on going ahead and putting a concrete floor in the whole thing. The incremental cost should be small compared to what you will have to put in for the 2 post lift.
All this being said, many of us have two post lifts and hate them. Life with my four post lifts is much better and you won't need as much concrete for them.
If you are putting a two post lift in a little building, you should plan on going ahead and putting a concrete floor in the whole thing. The incremental cost should be small compared to what you will have to put in for the 2 post lift.
All this being said, many of us have two post lifts and hate them. Life with my four post lifts is much better and you won't need as much concrete for them.
finn
Well-known member
Consider a four post lift, unless your knees are south of thirty five years old.
firebirdparts
Well-known member
10 x 15 is the right idea. The width will be more like 11 or 12, I think, and so if you're maybe 15 long and 12 wide I wouldn't be scared. I don't think I've ever seen a recommendation on the extent of the slab.
sjvicker
Well-known member
What lift are you looking at buying? There's a lot of different 2 post lifts out there
housewolf
Well-known member
Why? I’m closer to twice that age and for what I do, a two post works much better.
BillK
Well-known member
I was thinking the same thing. I dont see what difference 2 or 4 post makes on your knees ???
To be honest I’ve been looking at the clear floor lifts that are for 9000lbs but brand wise I’m not sure yet
gizardlizard
Well-known member
Four post lifts are good for….. oil changes? Lol. Working around the ramps *****. Working on suspension ***** on a four post. I’d never want one. Two post all the way but to each their own.
Skyking1992
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To each their own I guess, but I don't understand the objection to a two post lift.
I just replaced a differential in my Corvette a few weeks ago. I ended up dropping the entire rear suspension and drive train aft of the engine. I guess you could do it on a four post lift, but it certainly would not be as convenient.
For routine maintenance, such as oil changes, tire rotations, and brake pad changes, the two post makes it really easy. I have some tape marks on the floor for our two daily drivers. Drive to the mark, kick the arms in with my foot, hit the up bottom.
My lowered Corvette is a bit more work, but certainly not enough to not have a two post lift. I'm 71 and not in the best shape. You can still reach the floor and tie your shoes, can't you? No more trouble than that to get a car on a 2 post lift.
I just replaced a differential in my Corvette a few weeks ago. I ended up dropping the entire rear suspension and drive train aft of the engine. I guess you could do it on a four post lift, but it certainly would not be as convenient.
For routine maintenance, such as oil changes, tire rotations, and brake pad changes, the two post makes it really easy. I have some tape marks on the floor for our two daily drivers. Drive to the mark, kick the arms in with my foot, hit the up bottom.
My lowered Corvette is a bit more work, but certainly not enough to not have a two post lift. I'm 71 and not in the best shape. You can still reach the floor and tie your shoes, can't you? No more trouble than that to get a car on a 2 post lift.
Drill Sergeant Arc
Well-known member
Do you have pics of your existing floor? If it is really cool looking old world or last century looking I would want to save as much of that look as I could. I’m big into the old school vib and an ancient looking floor of wood or stone would be worth working around a solution to keep it original as much as possible. So a two post might be possible with hiding either deep concrete pylon piers into the ground leaving the rest of the floor original or even tagging the stones positions and digging and pouring two larger footings and reinstalling the stones with just the concrete pads and j-bolts showing. If the floor isn’t worth that kind of effort then disregard the above.
finn
Well-known member
I have both. I rarely use the two post. My knees hate it.
It’s just a gravel on the ground
Drill Sergeant Arc
Well-known member
Okay crushed stone, got it. Pour a floor. A lift that you can’t roll transmission jacks and carts and other heavy wheeled equipment around under a vehicle is not very useful. You can’t be dragging stuff in and out from under the car on gravel. You would no doubt end up laying plywood down until you did pour concrete and the lift would then need to be dealt with.
sjvicker
Well-known member
You really need to pick your lift first and then they have the slab requirements in the manual. I'm pretty sure your intended slab size and thickness will work for 99% of all lifts but you really need to check with the lift MFG.
firebirdparts
Well-known member
I think that's fine advice, and I also think nobody with an ounce of sense would do otherwise due to the width. You literally can't not do this in this situation. I don't think there will be anything in the manual about how far into the universe the slab should extend lengthwise, but I hope I'm wrong.
montauk1989
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- Mar 29, 2023
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Hi all. I'm new here and also looking at lifts. Last week I spoke to the Mohawk rep and asked about the concrete thickness. We didn't discuss the width and length of the pad. I'm sorry didn't.
Basic rule per Mohawk, if the lift has a horizontal cross tie, 4" is the minimum. If there's no cross tie, 6" is the minimum.
Basic rule per Mohawk, if the lift has a horizontal cross tie, 4" is the minimum. If there's no cross tie, 6" is the minimum.
Scud67
Well-known member
I don't know anyone that has a two post and hates it (other than you, and I don't know you)..... Where I know a few that have 4 post and wish they had a 2.
Spud McGee
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There are a number of different standards. This is the section from the rotary book I had handy. I'm sure its been updated since then.
It should illustrate the idea, though. There are different standards. Each standard has numbers for minimum concrete thickness, strength, anchor depth, etc.
They also have a minimum distance for the posts to the edge of the pad or an expansion joint. To answer your question about dimensions, I would first decide which standard you want to follow. Then the instruction manual for the lift will show you its footprint.
And remember, these are *minimum* numbers. There's nothing preventing you from going bigger and better. As was mentioned above, if you know where a lift will be, you can make it a foot deep there and not run up the cost. For my lift, I made the thick section of the floor about 4x13ft, and 12in deep. That ends up being an extra about 1.5yd. At the time, concrete was around $170/yd for the contractor price. It doesnt cost any more labor for them to finish it. So for $250, you are twice as thick as even the most demanding of the standards, with a footprint large enough for most 2 post lifts a home gamer would be using.
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montauk1989
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Thank you!!There are a number of different standards. This is the section from the rotary book I had handy. I'm sure its been updated since then.
It should illustrate the idea, though. There are different standards. Each standard has numbers for minimum concrete thickness, strength, anchor depth, etc.
They also have a minimum distance for the posts to the edge of the pad or an expansion joint. To answer your question about dimensions, I would first decide which standard you want to follow. Then the instruction manual for the lift will show you its footprint.
And remember, these are *minimum* numbers. There's nothing preventing you from going bigger and better. As was mentioned above, if you know where a left will be, you can make it a foot deep there and not run up the cost. For my lift, I made the thick section of the floor about 4x13ft, and 12in deep. That ends up being about 1.5yd. At the time, concrete was around $170/yd for the contractor price. It doesnt cost any more labor for them to finish it. So for $250, you are twice as thick as even the most demanding of the standards, with a footprint large enough for most 2 post lifts a home gamer would be using.
Dave
Derek on Vice Grip Garage pulled off a full drive train removal on a Vette with some ratchet straps. A little unorthodox and he was totalling out the body but if it works is it a dumb idea?
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JoelSparks
Member
I would record where you put the rebar. Drilling into it when you're anchoring the lift *****.
428PI
Well-known member
Yea, that's my concern. Pouring concrete in my shed in a couple months and want to record that but really want to possibly put lift at angle and than the 2 ft sq rebar will certainly become a factor. Perhaps don't put rebar in that area at all?
AC-WC
Well-known member
Since you only have a stone floor pour minimum 6" floor, minimum 4000 psi across the entire building (presuming it's a 1 car size building). Be sure to note where the mesh or rebar is so you can safely drill the holes without hitting the reinforcement or don't put it in the area where the columns are but rather around where the columns will be.
Minimum 8" of no concrete cuts or fracture lines near the columns.
Bendpak has GREAT instructions for flooring. You can Google and it's what I used. I did not buy a Bendpak but no one else has better documentation than them. All my lift mfg said was 6" was good enough.
Minimum 8" of no concrete cuts or fracture lines near the columns.
Bendpak has GREAT instructions for flooring. You can Google and it's what I used. I did not buy a Bendpak but no one else has better documentation than them. All my lift mfg said was 6" was good enough.