3/4 air lines worth it?

[Xkylescorex]

Im trying to come up with a plan to run my air lines in my new garage. 5hp 2 stage 80g Sanborn black max compressor. Right now I have a 3/4 regulator and a 3/4 jumper hose and cut off.
I figured I should just go all out and keep wverything 3/4 as I want to paint and sandblast. But looks like I cant find any 3/4 manifolds. The 3/4 rapidair kits look like the go from 3/4 to 1/2. At the manifold blocks. Not to mention I havent even seen a 3/4 air reel. Does it even matter? Should I just slap a 3/4 female to 1/2 reducer on my jump hose and ride off into the sunset? Why is it so hard to find 3/4 stuff

 

[steel 35]

My 1/2" copper work's well.

 

[nadogail]

You may fabricate your own.

 

[Wiz02]

I decided to run 3/4 copper until the outlets and reduce as needed to 1/4 or 3/8, but I sized the main regulator and filter at 3/4. Probably overkill for a 1 man such shop, but it's the GJ way. I bought a whole mess of fittings and valves from Zoro with coupons.

 

[loganb]

Sand blaster will benefit from full size airline to it...doubtful anything else will care

 

[mm08822]

Size for the largest simultaneous loads and distance. If only one tool will be used at a time, then pick the largest load....that could be your sandblaster.

Misc drops of of a 3/4 header could be 1/2"
You don't really want black pipe. Copper would be much better but $$. Pitch the header so it can drain to a low point.
Connect each drop to the topside of the header. At each drop, include a drip leg w/valve at floor level to drain if needed.

An air dryer (39F dew point) would provide one of the best benefits for all air usage.

 

[larry_g]

I would suggest you plan your system so that you have 3/4" at the beginning of the system and tap your paint and sandblaster off the 3/4". Then reduce the rest of the system to 1/2" to the lighter loads.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[ChefRex]

Just get batteries, air is obsolete!

 

[finn]

Those battery sand blasters are hard to come by.

 

[Jswain]

Those battery sand blasters are hard to come by.

Imagine how many batteries it would take to sandblast then paint a car

 

[RAYJAY]

Im trying to come up with a plan to run my air lines in my new garage. 5hp 2 stage 80g Sanborn black max compressor. Right now I have a 3/4 regulator and a 3/4 jumper hose and cut off.
I figured I should just go all out and keep wverything 3/4 as I want to paint and sandblast. But looks like I cant find any 3/4 manifolds. The 3/4 rapidair kits look like the go from 3/4 to 1/2. At the manifold blocks. Not to mention I havent even seen a 3/4 air reel. Does it even matter? Should I just slap a 3/4 female to 1/2 reducer on my jump hose and ride off into the sunset? Why is it so hard to find 3/4 stuff

3/4 mains 1/2 drops work great used this pdf on mine

https://cached.tptools.com/Images/airline-piping-diagram.pdf

 

[cvairwerks]

Really love the exciting idea of using a battery tool in a fuel tank that can't be completely purged....

 

[Mike65]

Just get batteries, air is obsolete!

Then what do you do with a tool box full of air tools?

 

[ChefRex]

Some people just don't get sarcasm.
I will never give up my air tools!

 

[johninct]

Throw your regulator away. I went with 3/4" copper instead of 1/2" and am glad that I did.

 

[cannuck]

Imagine how many batteries it would take to sandblast then paint a car

FINALLY! A genuine use for a Tesla.

 

[jblnut]

Our old farm shop it had a 2" main line up by the ceiling and had 1" drops wherever needed. Our sandblaster also had a 3/4" hose and it was plumbed directly into the main air line with a 1" ball valve to shut it off. It worked amazing. The 2" line by the ceiling acted as a buffer of sorts and added capacity to the system. Everywhere else had a 1" valve that was reduced down to whatever was needed at that spot. We had a 100' chunk of 3/4" hose with a chunk of pipe on the end of it we used to blow machinery off with that im really missing in my new shop. I really need to get more air back in there than my little hotdog IR !!

 

[marinusdees]

Our old farm shop it had a 2" main line up by the ceiling and had 1" drops wherever needed. Our sandblaster also had a 3/4" hose and it was plumbed directly into the main air line with a 1" ball valve to shut it off. It worked amazing. The 2" line by the ceiling acted as a buffer of sorts and added capacity to the system. Everywhere else had a 1" valve that was reduced down to whatever was needed at that spot. We had a 100' chunk of 3/4" hose with a chunk of pipe on the end of it we used to blow machinery off with that im really missing in my new shop. I really need to get more air back in there than my little hotdog IR !!

33 years ago, I used 3/4" main line, 1/2" drops. Black pipe. Still working. Re using 2" pipe to increase air capacity. I respectfully suggest that if you need more storage capacify, add another tank.

 

[PoorUB]

33 years ago, I used 3/4" main line, 1/2" drops. Black pipe. Still working. Re using 2" pipe to increase air capacity. I respectfully suggest that if you need more storage capacify, add another tank.

I agree. Unless you have a lot of air use, and I mean over 20 CFM, 3/4" is plenty!

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

Then what do you do with a tool box full of air tools?

Same thing that happened to all the black smithing tools waay back in the day!

 

[kbs2244]

The short answer is YES, it is worth it

I like the 2 inch main line line idea
Fed by 3/4. or even 1 inch, it will provide storage as well as surge protection

 

[juddspaintballs]

I'm not saying that 3/4" isn't worthwhile, but for your 1/4" fittings, I would suggest upgrading to Milton V style as well. Even on 1/2" lines, those Milton V's help airflow a bunch.

 

[Metal-Marc]

I have 1/2" copper lines running from the compresson (60 gallon) and two 5 gallon pancake aux tanks right after the regulator for both my outlets and a 20 gallon aux air tank right before the media blasting cabinet. They act like big capacitors to help keep the air pressure high.

 

[Schurkey]

I'm not saying that 3/4" isn't worthwhile, but for your 1/4" fittings, I would suggest upgrading to Milton V style as well. Even on 1/2" lines, those Milton V's help airflow a bunch.

Milton V coupler plugs...fine.

The Milton V coupler bodies are really hard to plug into. Strongly suggest the Prevost "PrevoS1" "Euro high-flow" coupler bodies instead. Green buttons for Euro high-flow, other colors on the button for other coupler styles--blue for Tru-Flate, red for Industrial Interchange, etc.
Example:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003969BJS/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Even if you can't afford ALL Prevost coupler bodies, get one or two for your most-used (coupled/uncoupled) connection(s).

 

[PoorUB]

The short answer is YES, it is worth it

I like the 2 inch main line line idea
Fed by 3/4. or even 1 inch, it will provide storage as well as surge protection

How much 2" have you cut an threaded, plus paid for? The big stuff is a pain to cut, thread and hang, plus expensive in comparison, plus you don't get that much capacity, about 1.6 gallons per ten feet, so not really that much. So you have a 30 foot long shop and run 2" down the middle. You just added less than 5 gallons of air capacity. A 2x2x3/4" tee is $12-$13, then the pipe is $100 per 20 feet. That 30 feet of pipe with 6 drops just cost you $250, plus the extra work of muscling 2" pipe and fittings together. I have done it, it ain't fun.

Plus 3/4" pipe will flow a ton of CFM, more than most of us would ever use. Run it in 3/4" and if you want extra capacity buy a 5 gallon air tank.

Depending on the shop layout, say you want drops on both walls, you may want to run a continuous loop of 3/4" pipe. You will double your flow.

 

[jblnut]

The old farm shop was 40x60 so the 2" copper ring, yes copper, was in the 200' long range up on the ceiling. I don't remember how long the home made dryer was but it made at least 6-8 vertical loops on the wall with a T's on the bottom of the loops that connected to a smaller line that had a ball valve that blew outside. The 2" pipe was used because it was available at the time from a demo project. It was all copper and was done in the 70's.

There were a couple 60 gal tanks in the attic that laid on their sides and fed from the side bungs so all water drained back into the shop. The compressor sat on a shelf and plumbed into the home made air dryer.
If you have the materials and the abilities oversize everything, you will not regret it. Air tools will be around for a long time yet and absolutely have their place in a shop. I'll drag a hose to a 1" impact in a heartbeat to avoid spending a grand on a Milwaukee 1" impact.

 

[cvairwerks]

Milton also makes a coupler called a 5-in-1, that uses high flow fittings and does not disconnect or connect with pressure on. The come in a couple sizes and condifigurations. Here's one:

Milton S-1750 5-in-1 Universal Safety Exhaust Quick-Connect Industrial Coupler, 1/4 in. FNPT

Since 1974, JME has been a trusted distributor of petroleum equipment, loading systems, sanitary supplies, fire safety products, and industrial parts. Shop now to see why 1000s of customers have chosen us as their preferred provider.

www.jmesales.com

 

[AffableCurmudgeon]

Why limit yourself to 3/4 inch? PVC comes in a lot of bigger sizes.

 

[Walkers]

Some people just don't get sarcasm.
I will never give up my air tools!

I am constantly amazed at this. Most GJ members here wouldn't survive a family dinner at my house.

 

[Jswain]

I am constantly amazed at this. Most GJ members here wouldn't survive a family dinner at my house.

Your wife's cooking ain't that bad...

 

[cvairwerks]

I agree. Unless you have a lot of air use, and I mean over. 20 CFM, 34" is plenty!

A 34" air line holds one heck of a lot of volume! Our biggest line at work is only 24".

 

[Monza Harry]

I'm planning on 3/4" copper, I've built my drop manifolds (8) and pieced all [I hope] my fittings and couplers together then copper went in to the stratosphere so project DEAD STOP! [10' Type M went to $70+! ]. I need 10 plus the drops if I build an "H" an additional 30' if I do a double circle (figure 8? undecided). 4, 10'r's for the drops, low ceiling. We won't even discuss where silver solder went, I have 2 Troy oz's not enough [$50+/ right now I think, and I'm estimating 5? +/-]
I'll edit in a better pic later [I hope]. Harry

 

[KansasArt]

Why limit yourself to 3/4 inch? PVC comes in a lot of bigger sizes.

Exactly! 4” schedule 80 along the ceiling with appropriate drop downs in the 2” flavor. Be like adding another tank for extra storage.

 

[Walkers]

Your wife's cooking ain't that bad...

You might survive the meal!

 

[fourjeepin]

Im trying to come up with a plan to run my air lines in my new garage. 5hp 2 stage 80g Sanborn black max compressor. Right now I have a 3/4 regulator and a 3/4 jumper hose and cut off.
I figured I should just go all out and keep wverything 3/4 as I want to paint and sandblast. But looks like I cant find any 3/4 manifolds. The 3/4 rapidair kits look like the go from 3/4 to 1/2. At the manifold blocks. Not to mention I havent even seen a 3/4 air reel. Does it even matter? Should I just slap a 3/4 female to 1/2 reducer on my jump hose and ride off into the sunset? Why is it so hard to find 3/4 stuff

McMaster Carr has a great selection of manifolds. I purchased a couple last month when redoing the air system in my CJ7

 

[Jack_K]

With 3/4 hose you would normally use 1/2 threaded fittings.

 

[nadogail]

Your 1” Impact wrench will appreciate the larger size air pipes.

 

[Xkylescorex]

Thanks for the advice guys. Here is my current setup. 3/4 pex, the joints are home depot sharkbites. After replacing my pressure switch and check valve and doing an oil change, everything is air tight. The pipe going up with a dead end cap on it will go to the ceiling and over to a hose reel once I buy one. Hopefully in a week or two. Trying to find a used sandblasting cabinet now.

 

[Metal-Marc]

 

[Xkylescorex]

Lol I know, i have one, just took it off when I hung the osb sheathing.