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3/4 Ratchet Set - Uses?

ATC

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I have a 3/4” set handed down from my dad who was a forklift mechanic. I use it more often than I thought I ever would just being a home hobbiest. Trailer balls, axle nuts, kingpins, leaf spring bolts/shackle/u-bolts, panhard bars, etc….
 
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dawgn86

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Aug 15, 2019
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I bought a cheap 3/4" socket set off of Facebook marketplace for $25. Internals were gummed up so I took it apart to clean and lube. It came with a metal case, extension about 17 sockets. Probably wont ever use it.
 

ThePostman

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Jan 13, 2020
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Virginia
I work on all makes and models. Once again I will hype the best 3/4" ratchet you could ever own, not break the bank, and know that whatever is in front of you will break before this does....


Axle bolts on VWs just the other day, stepped down with a Mac adapter to a Snappy 19mm 1/2" hex. I have a 17mm shallow 3/4" drive snappy socket just because of older Toyota Cam pulley nuts. When I bought it five years ago, I think I paid $150 total, quite possibly 130s. The price today makes sense unfortunately, and for the current low of 238, I think is still the biggest bang for your buck in this field. I have had 4 feet of schedule 40 on this thing. And once you actually hold this broadsword, you'll know what it's capable of.
 

AJHD

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AZ
I used some 3/4" when I worked at CAT, but honestlty most of the work I did was done with 3/8" and 1/2". We only needed 3/4" for the larger and high torque jobs.

Anyway... I definitely don't need them, but I was at HF earlier browsing and came across their 3/4" shallow impacts on clearance for $25. The metric set followed me home, it was an impluse buy. I don't have any other 3/4" tools currently so I will need to buy a 3/4" adapter at the very least.

Even if you buy the cheapest no name China sockets online somewhere, I doubt you can buy 8 sockets for $25 anywhere else.

Check your local stores if interested...

 

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KnurledNut

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Speaking of plumbing- another great use for 3/4" ratchet is removing water heater elements. 1-1/2" socket if I recall. Pops 'em right out.
Never needed anything more than 1/2 drive for elements. Old anode rods, maybe. Those jokers can be incredibly tight.
No issues with the 3/4 drive lead-in chamfer of the socket being too steep? Not much nut to grab onto with elements. I know the newer dedicated sockets are 1/2 drive.
I did an old crusty one fairly recently without draining it. Pray, pull it, and hope the new one goes in. :lol:
 

CoogarXR

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Never needed anything more than 1/2 drive for elements. Old anode rods, maybe. Those jokers can be incredibly tight.
No issues with the 3/4 drive lead-in chamfer of the socket being too steep? Not much nut to grab onto with elements. I know the newer dedicated sockets are 1/2 drive.
I did an old crusty one fairly recently without draining it. Pray, pull it, and hope the new one goes in. :lol:
Sure, you can get it done with 1/2", but wouldn't you rather just put the ratchet on the element and have it just spin out from the weight of the ratchet alone? Then come up the stairs, holding a giant ratchet, and your wife think you're in the basement battling dragons?
 

4lug39

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Bastrop,Texas
It's better have a tool and not need it than need it and not have it. Like most have said, I inherited my set from my grandfather and used them mostly on my press( bearings, races, bushings, etc). When we bought the ranch I really found out how much they were needed fixing you own equipment. Two older tractors and a ton of implements I found myself just grabbing them before anything else. Then a few years later a friend of mine got me into military vehicles. I bought two M35's and a M1078. You couldn't even check the oil or change a bulb without using a 3/4 dr socket if you didn't want to fight it for half the day.
 

Beerhippie

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Far NE Oregon
Speaking of plumbing- another great use for 3/4" ratchet is removing water heater elements. 1-1/2" socket if I recall. Pops 'em right out.
Out here, we have very hard water--carbonate hardness, which is the stuff of water heater nightmares. The proper tool for removing a heavily-lime-scaled heater element is a rattle gun. Seconds of noise vs. a half-hour of cursing and potentially rounding off the element.

This is why there's a 1 1/2" X 1/2" dr. impact socket in my socket box. 3/4" drive would be preferable, but half is what I have.
 

gregjsmith

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Nov 25, 2024
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3/4" ratchets and sockets are definitely more specialized and usually used for heavy-duty applications. They’re designed to handle much higher torque compared to 1/2" or 3/8" setups, so they work well if you’re dealing with larger bolts or stubborn fasteners.

A 3/4" set might not be used much by most people unless they regularly work on heavy equipment.
 

gahrajmahal

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This year I replaced the timing belt on my Honda Ridgeline (V6 engine) . I needed to remove the crank pulley. I had to buy a 3/4 breaker bar, 12” of extensions and an adapter for my 1/2” drive deep well impact 17 mm. The 3/4 drive 17 mm wall thickness was too thick to fit in the pulley hole. All that resting on a jack stand and a 6 foot cheater plus heat from a mapp torch finally broke it free.

Thanks to many YouTube videos showing me how. It’s a problem on most Honda models with the v6.
 

mikey03

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Because of this thread I happen to notice tekton has a reasonably priced 3/4 drive set when I was browsing their site today

its a damn good thing Tekton nerfed their Black Friday sale because if they did their extra 10% off sale like they used to run every year, I’d be the owner of a new set of 3/4 sockets that I’d prob never use 😂
 

Ohio Andy

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Because of this thread I happen to notice tekton has a reasonably priced 3/4 drive set when I was browsing their site today

its a damn good thing Tekton nerfed their Black Friday sale because if they did their extra 10% off sale like they used to run every year, I’d be the owner of a new set of 3/4 sockets that I’d prob never use 😂
Think many of us would have less money right now if they had the extra 10%
 

Retired dozer fixer

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Leesburg Indiana
This year I replaced the timing belt on my Honda Ridgeline (V6 engine) . I needed to remove the crank pulley. I had to buy a 3/4 breaker bar, 12” of extensions and an adapter for my 1/2” drive deep well impact 17 mm. The 3/4 drive 17 mm wall thickness was too thick to fit in the pulley hole. All that resting on a jack stand and a 6 foot cheater plus heat from a mapp torch finally broke it free.

Thanks to many YouTube videos showing me how. It’s a problem on most Honda models with the v6.
I’d like to know what brand of 3/4” to 1/2” adapter you all are putting 6 foot pipes on and not shearing off the small end??? Broke many over the years mostly Snap-On and Mac. Never would ever owned a Hobo-fraud adapter
 

gahrajmahal

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I’d like to know what brand of 3/4” to 1/2” adapter you all are putting 6 foot pipes on and not shearing off the small end??? Broke many over the years mostly Snap-On and Mac. Never would ever owned a Hobo-fraud adapter

I used the Hobo-fraud adapter. It came with two others I have no problem abusing either! Turns out there are few “in stock” alternatives to Harbor Freight if you are trying to complete a task on the day of. Tractor supply and NAPA do not carry what I need, plus all their **** comes from China too. I had a moving blanket over the whole setup when I was leaning on it in case it shattered. My 6 foot pipe bent in the middle as it was only a thin wall pipe, a little thicker than electrical conduit.
 

cannuck

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I used to buy 3/4 sockets as needed with breaker bar and short extension, eventually bought a cheap 3/4 set decades ago to cover missing sizes. The only socket I have ever broken was one of them. I accumulated a very large and heavy drawer of 3/4 and 1" sockets and in another 3/4 and 1 impact drivers over the years (the big breaker bars and 600 lb/ft torgue wrench far too big for tool box). Most common use in my home shop is axle nuts, but I have big trucks and equipment on farm that as the saying goes: :when you need them you NEED them" applies. My go to for breaking most middling largish stuff loose is my Milwaukee 3/4 fuel often with adapter to 1/2" impact 6 points but it usually comes to its knees on axle nuts (backing not sufficiently massive and rigid).
 
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2oolhound

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BC Canada
Hey, I love tools as much as the next guy. I don’t have any 3/4 Ratchets or sockets. Question is, what are these primarily used for? I assume big rigs and construction equipment…. I wouldn’t mind a set, but I just haven’t had the need.
Sorry, this post makes no sense at all. Just read this last statement again "I wouldn’t mind a set, but I just haven’t had the need."
Huh? This is how it works Dan, if you don't have a set then you need a set. End of discussion.

FWIW I've seen job posting where having a 3/4" set was mandatory for the position. If you're breaking 1/2" sockets, time to move up.
 

dchawk81

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Jul 31, 2014
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Sorry, this post makes no sense at all. Just read this last statement again "I wouldn’t mind a set, but I just haven’t had the need."
Huh? This is how it works Dan, if you don't have a set then you need a set. End of discussion.

FWIW I've seen job posting where having a 3/4" set was mandatory for the position. If you're breaking 1/2" sockets, time to move up.
The position was GJ moderator, I presume?
 

Robinson1

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Jun 22, 2015
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Kentucky
3/4 drive is pretty nice when you’re working on old rusty junk and the 1/2” impact just hammers and the 1/2” breaker bar flexes like a spring.

I’ve used 15/16 and 1-1/8 quite a bit in 3/4 drive
 

Corndoggeh

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3/4 drive is pretty nice when you’re working on old rusty junk and the 1/2” impact just hammers and the 1/2” breaker bar flexes like a spring.

I’ve used 15/16 and 1-1/8 quite a bit in 3/4 drive

Exactly what I experienced this weekend. I never used 3/4" before until I needed to undo a wheel hub axle bolt. The 1/2" breaker bar flexed too much for my comfort and standing on it didnt move the bolt either. Broke out the old 3/4" husky ratchet I found at an antique mall 4 years ago that I paid $20 for as a "just in case" I needed something stiffer to jump on. Got the bolt off that way.

If you can find 3/4" cheap then get a ratchet/breaker bar in 3/4" and some common sockets for big auspension parts. The added stiffness to everything helps break through rust and other crud. At the very least gives you better confidence and mitigates flex that, in my opinion, usually leads to stripping bolt heads.
 

TxSteve

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Aug 22, 2023
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Granbury, Texas
A short 3/4" extension (if needed) also doesn't flex as much and allows the impact to work much better. I have a 1/2-3/4 adapter that goes on the impact then the extension and then the 3/4 socket for the bush hog.
 

cannuck

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A short 3/4" extension (if needed) also doesn't flex as much and allows the impact to work much better. I have a 1/2-3/4 adapter that goes on the impact then the extension and then the 3/4 socket for the bush hog.
If you want to deliver maximum impact some distance away you need to use a 3/4 extension
(on edit) THEN I see TxSteve's post!
 
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NUTTSGT

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When I bought my JD scut, I thought I "needed" a set. I bought a cheap set at the local farm store for less than $100. I used it once for something, I forget.

I have it and might as well keep it, just in case.
Moved it from the pallet racking to the new cabinet and snapped a picture of mine.

KIMG2048.JPG
 

mikey03

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You guys know how before 3/8 drive was popular you’d hear people were using 1/4 and 1/2 drive only? Run 1/4 up to 14 mm and then run 1/2 from 14 mm up

i dont see stuff below 8 mm really and now I’m wondering if you could get away with 3/8 drive in 8 mm to 19 mm and run 3/4 drive in 19 mm +

honestly I know it’s a dumb idea and I’m not fixing to do it I already got alot of 1/2 drive stuff and they just don’t have the same availability of 3/4 ratchets and impact wrenches that they do for 1/2

and yea I bet you’d say 3/4 is so dang heavy that it would be a hassle to use on smaller sizes like 19 and 21 but personally I don’t do much above 19 too much that’s all suspension stuff on the cars I work on and mostly I’m doing engine bay and brakes

just from a having a small amount of tools that could do alot in a mobile toolkit maybe 3/8 in every size from nano to shallow to mid to deep. And then 3/4 drive in deep only. And a full set of combination wrenches and a full set of 0 degree XL double box end and i think you could get alot of work done

maybe add in a set of small ratcheting wrenches to do stuff that 1/4 drive might otherwise do
 
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dchawk81

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You guys know how before 3/8 drive was popular you’d hear people were using 1/4 and 1/2 drive only? Run 1/4 up to 14 mm and then run 1/2 from 14 mm up

i dont see stuff below 8 mm really and now I’m wondering if you could get away with 3/8 drive in 8 mm to 19 mm and run 3/4 drive in 19 mm +

honestly I know it’s a dumb idea and I’m not fixing to do it I already got alot of 1/2 drive stuff and they just don’t have the same availability of 3/4 ratchets and impact wrenches that they do for 1/2

and yea I bet you’d say 3/4 is so dang heavy that it would be a hassle to use on smaller sizes like 19 and 21 but personally I don’t do much above 19 too much that’s all suspension stuff on the cars I work on and mostly I’m doing engine bay and brakes

just from a having a small amount of tools that could do alot in a mobile toolkit maybe 3/8 in every size from nano to shallow to mid to deep. And then 3/4 drive in deep only. And a full set of combination wrenches and a full set of 0 degree XL double box end and i think you could get alot of work done

maybe add in a set of small ratcheting wrenches to do stuff that 1/4 drive might otherwise do
I never knew 1/4 to be popular. My dad's garage was almost all 1/2" and 3/8".

Probably before you were born though.
 

sparky 1971

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You guys know how before 3/8 drive was popular you’d hear people were using 1/4 and 1/2 drive only? Run 1/4 up to 14 mm and then run 1/2 from 14 mm up

i dont see stuff below 8 mm really and now I’m wondering if you could get away with 3/8 drive in 8 mm to 19 mm and run 3/4 drive in 19 mm +

honestly I know it’s a dumb idea and I’m not fixing to do it I already got alot of 1/2 drive stuff and they just don’t have the same availability of 3/4 ratchets and impact wrenches that they do for 1/2

and yea I bet you’d say 3/4 is so dang heavy that it would be a hassle to use on smaller sizes like 19 and 21 but personally I don’t do much above 19 too much that’s all suspension stuff on the cars I work on and mostly I’m doing engine bay and brakes

just from a having a small amount of tools that could do alot in a mobile toolkit maybe 3/8 in every size from nano to shallow to mid to deep. And then 3/4 drive in deep only. And a full set of combination wrenches and a full set of 0 degree XL double box end and i think you could get alot of work done

maybe add in a set of small ratcheting wrenches to do stuff that 1/4 drive might otherwise do
Have you ever tried to use a 3/4" drive ratchet? It's not so much the weight, but even the little guys are huge and require a ton of room to work. I have a 24" fixed and 26" flex 1/2" drive, both 90 tooth and they ate too big for 75% of the jobs on a car or truck.
 

mikey03

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Have you ever tried to use a 3/4" drive ratchet? It's not so much the weight, but even the little guys are huge and require a ton of room to work. I have a 24" fixed and 26" flex 1/2" drive, both 90 tooth and they ate too big for 75% of the jobs on a car or truck.
Nope never handled one before.

is there any 3/4 anvils you can swap into 1/2 drive body snap on ratchets? Then you could use smaller sizes like 19 mm to 30 mm in the smaller ratchet and use the bigger sizes on legit full size 3/4 drive ratchets
 

sparky 1971

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Nope never handled one before.

is there any 3/4 anvils you can swap into 1/2 drive body snap on ratchets? Then you could use smaller sizes like 19 mm to 30 mm in the smaller ratchet and use the bigger sizes on legit full size 3/4 drive ratchets
I really doubt it. I haven't seen all of the flavors of 3/4 ratchets but I've seen a bunch including the three that I have and the heads on those are close to double the size of a 1/2 drive head.
 

sparky 1971

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Nope never handled one before.

is there any 3/4 anvils you can swap into 1/2 drive body snap on ratchets? Then you could use smaller sizes like 19 mm to 30 mm in the smaller ratchet and use the bigger sizes on legit full size 3/4 drive ratchets
You made me brave the 10° weather to get a side by side pic of 3/4 vs 1/2 ratchets. 1/2 SK LP90 1/2, Craftsman 3/4, SK roundhead 1/2, Gearwrench 3/4.
 

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Jeremy77

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8-10 years ago, Tractor Supply had a Crescent branded 3/4 SAE 7/8 to 2” on clearance for $40-$50 bucks. I picked it up thinking that I’d someday have a reason for it. Sits it the bottom drawer of one of my boxes, never used, to this day. I’d buy it again if I had it to do over.
 
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