3/8" and 1/2" Drive Sockets, Can I get Away With Impact Only and not Chrome?

[YoshiMoshi3]

I know that impact sockets, the walls are much thicker, and the overall height of an impact socket, is much greater than chrome sockets. Even for thin walled impact sockets or shallow impact sockets, chrome is much thinner and shallower. I can see situations in which you would need a chrome socket over an impact socket, such as oil pan fasteners with a lip on the oil pan, or tight clearance areas like on a timing chain cover, or under the dash work. However these fasteners seem to be mostly 14 mm or smaller, and a 1/4" drive socket will work. Because clearance is of concern often in these situations, using the smallest drive size would make sense, 1/4", as braker bars, ratchets etc. are often the lowest profile.

However for 3/8" and 1/2" drive, I don't see nuts or bolts in supper tight clearance areas whose sizes are greater than 14 mm. It seems like I might be able to get away with impact sockets only for 3/8" and 1/2" drive for automotive work?

If anybody has ran into the situation in which a fastener had to be removed whose size across the flats was greater than 14 mm, and an impact socket would not work due due wall thickness or overall height of the socket, and HAD TO use a chrome socket as a result, please let me what this situation was.

Thanks.

 

[liliysdad]

Absolutely not. I’d do without impacts before I’d sacrifice Chome.

 

[M6erfan]

I know that impact sockets, the walls are much thicker, and the overall height of an impact socket, is much greater than chrome sockets. Even for thin walled impact sockets or shallow impact sockets, chrome is much thinner and shallower. I can see situations in which you would need a chrome socket over an impact socket, such as oil pan fasteners with a lip on the oil pan, or tight clearance areas like on a timing chain cover, or under the dash work. However these fasteners seem to be mostly 14 mm or smaller, and a 1/4" drive socket will work. Because clearance is of concern often in these situations, using the smallest drive size would make sense, 1/4", as braker bars, ratchets etc. are often the lowest profile.

However for 3/8" and 1/2" drive, I don't see nuts or bolts in supper tight clearance areas whose sizes are greater than 14 mm. It seems like I might be able to get away with impact sockets only for 3/8" and 1/2" drive for automotive work?

If anybody has ran into the situation in which a fastener had to be removed whose size across the flats was greater than 14 mm, and an impact socket would not work due due wall thickness or overall height of the socket, and HAD TO use a chrome socket as a result, please let me what this situation was.

Thanks.

Thin wall impacts.

 

[yellowbox]

I personally hardly ever use Chrome sockets , impact is just what I prefer (6 pt)
Hell it seems like I hardly ever use wrenches that much either.... not old plain ones , gearwrench for sure

 

[AEAdam]

This has come up before. You absolutely can get away with it until you can’t. A day will come when you will need chrome. Chrome is harder and fits tighter. It’s not the same socket with a different finish. And impacts aren’t fun to use on ratchets. They feel different, sometimes they fit ratchets and extensions differently,

In the past, folks have tried to save money by not buying chrome. But that’s kinda dumb. You can buy decent enough sockets to fit any budget. Keep in mind, “buying chrome” doesn’t have to mean buying 15 socket sets. I could get a lot done with 3/8” semi deeps and 1/4” shallows.

oh - my only 1/2” drive chrome are shallow 12pts. I use impacts for 1/2” drive almost exclusively.

 

[matthew]

I’m just a DIYer… but even for me the answer is at least partially no.

May not be too often that clearance is a problem, but i did a brake job a month or two ago where a 3/8” drive chrome was the only thing that fit. I wanted to use 1/2” drive, but no dice. Thicker wall wouldn’t work either. If that happens for me on a straightforward job, then anyone doing more serious work than oil changes needs 3/8” chrome.

On 1/2” drive you probably would get away with just impacts.

For what sockets cost, there’s no reason not to have a basic 3/8” chrome set. A 3/8” impact set is more of a luxury (although needed by a pro) imo.

 

[Fedwrench]

I think you can probably get away with using impact sockets in 3/8 & 1/2 drive most of the time. It also depends on whose impact sockets you're using. Sunex has some fairly thin impact sockets that seem to fit almost everywhere. I use their 3/8 semi deep set that runs 8-22mm for most of my tasks.
After all, time is money and I'm using air or cordless tools to speed things up wherever I can.

 

[charbar]

I wouldn't do it with 3/8" personally. There are a LOT of times I need to use a chrome 3/8 because an impact wont fit. Depends what you are working on though.....Im a full time mechanic so I see a lot of different situations that most DIYers would never think of.

My service truck only has impact sockets in 1/2" drive. 90% of the work out of that truck is on diesel power units or ag equipment though so getting an impact socket in most places isn't as big of an issue as trying to get a steering rack out of a Chevy Malibu or something like that

 

[jsaw]

My day job, I am a mechanic. 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 impact sockets are all that I use. I do have some 1/4" chrome sockets in the drawer that I very seldom use, I only have a few odd chrome 3/8 and 1/2" sockets.

 

[General Geoff]

If anybody has ran into the situation in which a fastener had to be removed whose size across the flats was greater than 14 mm, and an impact socket would not work due due wall thickness or overall height of the socket, and HAD TO use a chrome socket as a result, please let me what this situation was.

I come across this situation somewhat regularly with brake and suspension work around steering knuckles and hubs where the bolt heads are boxed-in tight enough that chrome sockets fit but standard impacts don't. Sometimes the obstructions are tight enough to require deep offset box end wrenches, but rarely.

Example (granted this was 14mm, not greater than 14mm):



For socket height problems, well, there are low profile impact sockets available to get around that.

 

[Boogerman]

Of course you can. You an also get away with living in your car, not renting or buying an apartment or house. You can get away with living on cold hotdogs and overripe bananas and day old bread. You can get away with only owning a bicycle and foregoing owning an automobile. You can get away without having a regular job, and pick up odd jobs enough to buy the hotdogs and old bread. You can get away with raising a family in a studio apartment with only a half bath.

The question is, why would you, unless you need to for financial reasons or some odd circumstances that make it necessary?

I personally almost never use impacts, unless I have to. But, I have them to use (surprisingly enough) on an impact gun when needed. I much prefer the fit and balance of chrome sockets when using a ratchet and breaker bar. It makes it a lot more pleasant to work with tools that work better and balance better. I'm not a production mechanic, so impact is not of much use/necessity to me.

Another odd circumstance where chrome was necessary. I was doing a brake job on a Lexus GX470 this week; the wheels had deep lugnut recesses that only a 12 point chrome 19mm would fit. Absolutely no way to get in with the standard flip impact socket I normally use or a slightly thicker 6 point. Luckily, I prefer 12 point chrome, so had it.

 

[MBfreak]

I have worked a lot with large ( > 250 MW) generators and high voltage ( >275 kV) switchgear.
Only tools allowed are steel or aluminium with sand blasted surface. Even minor spalding of the chrome
surface is a very real danger.

Ola

 

[CoogarXR]

C'mon, this is GJ. Less is NOT more here, lol. Even us home-gamers have chrome and impact in 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 3/4 and 1", shallow, mid, semi and deep, in SAE, metric and whitworth, lol.

 

[AA/FC]

You can certainly do whatever you want..... But if you're buying tools to USE, then you will eventually find out why there are many different types of sockets available on the market. You will look back at this question and chuckle to yourself.

I could NOT IMAGINE suffering with only one type of socket. THAT would ****! They make sockets in different types of steel, shapes, sizes, lengths, wall thickness, etc, etc for a reason..... because they are eventually "needed" if you use tools long enough on a regular basis.

If you're a home owner looking for a home set of tools so you can assemble the occasional IKEA furniture kit, then buy one set of sockets. (in that case, impact is overkill) But if you plan to actually work on cars, trucks, equipment, etc and do more than simple oil changes, you WILL eventually need a FULL set of sockets.

 

[Sumboodie]

I don't even own impact sockets aside from a few specific sizes for my 1" guns.

I've heard "stories" about sockets blowing apart and killing a fleet of busload of nuns along with bald eagles and puppies. Only sockets I've broken was by hand, so dunno.

 

[tyyost]

However for 3/8" and 1/2" drive, I don't see nuts or bolts in supper tight clearance areas whose sizes are greater than 14 mm. It seems like I might be able to get away with impact sockets only for 3/8" and 1/2" drive for automotive work?

If anybody has ran into the situation in which a fastener had to be removed whose size across the flats was greater than 14 mm, and an impact socket would not work due due wall thickness or overall height of the socket, and HAD TO use a chrome socket as a result, please let me what this situation was.

This is the conundrum - I believe AEAdam mentioned it first, you can until you can’t.
I mostly do undercar maintenance on our stuff at home, brakes, suspension, wheel bearings, exhausts. I could easily get by with just impact sockets for nearly all that work.

Subaru in their infinite wisdom buries the bolts for the wheel bearing behind the knuckle and lets the rust in for my safety I guess. They are tight as hell and clearance around the knuckle is close. If I recall, I did switch to a chrome for one of them on a wobble socket to get me on to crank on it.

This is a personal situation, without knowing what you do or plan to work on ymmv. My impacts are on the bulky side, so I still spin ratchets often, but use impact sockets as much as chrome. My cart has all the 1/2” drive in both metric and SAE as impacts and rarely do I go looking for others, so I’d call that a safe bet.

 

[DrinkMan]

I can't get impact sockets on lug nut/bolts that are recessed into wheels with little clearance. I do tend to use the 1/2 impact sockets frequently (more likely on suspension, but seldom on the engine). I can't remember the last time I used a 3/8 impact socket. This may sound crazy but sometimes I like the "feel" and fit of the chrome (I can't explain it).

 

[Steve_P]

I use chrome 3/8 drive sets a lot for engine work. I'm sure an impact on a ratchet would work most of the time, but as others have said, you will eventually need the chrome sets for something. Of course, this is GJ, and I also have chrome 1/2 drive, both in 6 and 12 point; I don't use these very often, but I do use them.

 

[plinker]

What works for me (at work) is impact in 1/4,3/8 & 1/2 then 12pt in chrome. The 1/4 & 3/8 Napa/Sunex impact sockets are pretty much the same as chrome 6pts, thickness wise. 1/2 is a different story but it's pretty rare I need a thinwall in 1/2 drive except for lug nuts.

I do have 12pt shallow impacts in 3/8 & 1/2 if I have to hammer on the odd random 12pt bolt. Snap-on generally has the thinnest 12pt chrome socket, so that can be useful thing. Cant say I've needed a 6pt chrome socket in anything except 1/4 drive in quite a while.

 

[iagsxr]

I only have impacts in 1/2" drive. The few chromes I have are ones I've had to get for a specific use where an impact wouldn't fit.

Have both in 3/8". Never use the impacts unless they're on an impact. Too bulky and hate the way they feel.

As always it depends on what you're working on and what you're used to.

 

[theoldwizard1]

First, for DIYers, skip 1/2" entirely ! The exception is, get a set of flip lug nuts sockets and the Harbor Freight 25" breaker bar. Once you have cracked them loose, a 3/8" battery impact will easily spin them off.

If your on a budget, yes, you can likely get away with impact only, but you need standard a deep lengths !

Other than the lug nut sockets, I have not touched any of my 1/2" stuff in several years.

 

[mreisner]

As I don't have a lift I do a lot flat on my back on a creeper working over my head. On a long ratchet or breaker bar or using an extension after not too long I appreciate the lighter weight of a regular socket compared to an impact one. Also working on some farm equipment sometimes you need a 2 ft extension, a swivel, and a regular length ratchet. An impact socket in that situation would make an unsteady setup at best even worse for me.

 

[liliysdad]

First, for DIYers, skip 1/2" entirely ! Exception is get a set of flip lug nuts sockets and the Harbor Freight

How do you figure that? As a DIYer, I use 1/2 a LOT! Suspension, drivetrain, and engine work calls for a lot of 1/2 drive stuff.

I'd hate to have to wrestle the bed bolts on my 69 Ford or the u-bolts In my Jeep with nothing more than 3/8 stuff….not to mention pinion nuts, axle bolts, head bolts, etc.

 

[theoldwizard1]

How do you figure that? As a DIYer, I use 1/2 a LOT! Suspension, drivetrain, and engine work calls for a lot of 1/2 drive stuff.

Maybe I am just too old ! About 5+ years ago I replaced inner and outer tie rods and other steering components on an old E150. I needed the 1/2" drive for that. Last time I used them.

 

[AA/FC]

First, for DIYers, skip 1/2" entirely !

I disagree. You don't know what a DIYer is working on, or will eventually work on. We as humans don't really get to decide which tool we want to use on any given fastener.... the fastener decides that for us. Sure, there is some "cross-over" between fastener size and the appropriate drive size.... but if you're working on a car/truck/machine and all you have is 1/4" and 3/8" drive stuff, it's gonna really **** when you run across a 15/16th bolt head or nut. (for example)

 

[M635_Guy]

My approach was to have chrome and impact.

I didn't want lots of imact sockets in my drawer, so I only have 1/2" impact sockets. This gives me sizing that goes up to the biggest for things like axle nuts, etc. and down as far as I've ever needed my impacts to go (10mm, at least for my Sunex master set).

My 'regular' set is chrome. I bought 1/2" because... well, I just did. If I had to give up a chrome size set between 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2", it wouldn't take any time to choose 1/2". I use them infrequently, and it's where I have the least ratchets. But I do use them.

I would not want only-chrome or only-impact - they're designed for different methods of work. Unless I was in a pinch, I wouldn't want to hand-crank on an impact socket and I definitely wouldn't put a chrome on my impact.

 

[micromind]

I have 1/4 and 3/8 chrome and I'll even admit to using the 3/8 with an impact. But it's not one of those 50,000,000 ft.lb. types, I'd say maybe 75 ft.lb. Been doing it for many years and have had zero issues so far.

My 1/2 is all impact. If something needs to be impacted, I'll use 1/2 if it'll fit.

My 3/4 is also all impact.

 

[bonneyman]

I come across this situation somewhat regularly with brake and suspension work around steering knuckles and hubs where the bolt heads are boxed-in tight enough that chrome sockets fit but standard impacts don't. Sometimes the obstructions are tight enough to require deep offset box end wrenches, but rarely.

Example (granted this was 14mm, not greater than 14mm):



For socket height problems, well, there are low profile impact sockets available to get around that.

Sweet photo! Those extra deep, long Stahwille box wrenches are the bomb!

 

[mikedodge]

The thickness alone would make me not use impacts as regular sockets. I do however use deep half inch ones on the rare occasion a normal socket is too shallow.

Impact sockets are also softer then normal ones because of how impacts work. They're more likely to get worn and mis shaped if they are used regularly as a normal socket.

 

[mikedodge]

How do you figure that? As a DIYer, I use 1/2 a LOT! Suspension, drivetrain, and engine work calls for a lot of 1/2 drive stuff.

I'd hate to have to wrestle the bed bolts on my 69 Ford or the u-bolts In my Jeep with nothing more than 3/8 stuff….not to mention pinion nuts, axle bolts, head bolts, etc.

I agree. If you don't need 1/2 don't get them but when you're working on something car related especially the engine or suspension you'll need them at some point. Some jobs I use almost nothing but 1/2".

 

[VolvoRyan]

It really does depend on your work.

For years, I got away with impact-only for 1/2". You will indeed find places where they don't fit. Seemingly unexpected places.

-Ryan

 

[Wamsutta]

I don't have a problem using impact sockets manually.

 

[liliysdad]

I know this is an horribly unpopular opinion….but I’d rather use chrome on an impact than be stuck with only impact sockets.

 

[AEAdam]

First, for DIYers, skip 1/2" entirely ! The exception is, get a set of flip lug nuts sockets and the Harbor Freight 25" breaker bar. Once you have cracked them loose, a 3/8" battery impact will easily spin them off.

If your on a budget, yes, you can likely get away with impact only, but you need standard a deep lengths !

Other than the lug nut sockets, I have not touched any of my 1/2" stuff in several years.

Terrible advice. How would you torque anything over 100ftlbs? I’ve seen brake bolts with higher torques. There are all kinds of simple jobs shops charge a lot for that you could do yourself and save $$$ but you’ll need 1/2” drive and a way to transmit significant torque.

If you were going to skip a drive size, and I don’t recommend it, 3/8” would be the one. European mechanics didn’t always use 3/8”. You can easily do 13mm with 1/2” drive. Below that would be 1/4”. But again, not recommended.

Here’s my advice for saving on tools: Splurge on high quality 1/4” drive shallows. I recommend Snap on, but Koken or Williams are more than good enough. Then spring for a high quality long flex 1/4” ratchet. You can do an awful lot with GOOD 1/4” drive. The sockets fit tight and good ratchets are strong. You could probably do a serpentine belt in a pinch.

For 3/8” drive, I’d go Taiwan, like Icon. I’d start with mid depth and buy shallows only when on sale or when needed. Remember you will need a bunch of bit sockets to work on cars. Any ratchet get will likely be good enough, but make it a long flex. For spinning stuff on fast, use your 1/4” or buy the super cheap composite ratchet from HF or Heckton.

Then I’d buy 1/2” impacts from someone like Sunnex. If you don’t have a gun yet, surf eBay for a SHLF80A. If you can’t afford that, get the longest breaker harbor freight sells. While you are there, find a 1/2” ratchet you like the looks of.

You’ll also need extensions. Don't cheap out on these or you’ll be sorry. Wobbles are a must.

Add wrenches, screwdrivers, prybars, panel poppers, plastic prybars and a scanner and that’s a start. Then jacks, stands, creeper, lights, it’s a lot and there’s no super cheap path. That said, I’ve seen guys boxes here that have 250 sockets in them and as many wrenches. You don’t need that to execute some auto repairs and save some money on car bills.

 

[Rinspeed]

I always laugh at the Dorks that say you shouldn't use impacts with a hand ratchet. Makes me think they haven't turned very many wrenches in their life.

 

[liliysdad]

I always laugh at the Dorks that say you shouldn't use impacts with a hand ratchet. Makes me think they haven't turned very many wrenches in their life.

I don’t think anyone said you shouldn’t….just that it’s unnecessary.

 

[Rinspeed]

First, for DIYers, skip 1/2" entirely ! The exception is, get a set of flip lug nuts sockets and the Harbor Freight 25" breaker bar. Once you have cracked them loose, a 3/8" battery impact will easily spin them off.

If your on a budget, yes, you can likely get away with impact only, but you need standard a deep lengths !

Other than the lug nut sockets, I have not touched any of my 1/2" stuff in several years.

Lol.

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

I have a lot of chrome sockets. Ruined a few 1/4" using them on my impact driver. When I bought cordless impact wrenches I bought master sets of impacts in 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2". I have run in to a couple situations where the impacts wouldn't fit.

 

[Rinspeed]

I don’t think anyone said you shouldn’t….just that it’s unnecessary.

They certainly have or I wouldn't have posted that. Might not have been in this thread but I've heard it several times.

 

[liliysdad]

They certainly have or I wouldn't have posted that. Might not have been in this thread but I've heard it several times.

Of course