Thats the best way. Linemans pliers with two hands and work your way aroiund the cable. (Hacksaw.
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300F electrical connection in Furnace Air Handler
- Thread starter gba2331
- Start date
)FWIW, I'm planning on using a Polaris block like this one: https://www.zoro.com/polaris-insulated-multitap-connector-162-in-w-ipl10-3b/i/G4119254/
Thanks for the advice, but I'm not sure that I follow, specifically how to splice the connectors. I've spliced much smaller stranded wires via soldering but I can't imaging soldering something like this. How do you splice such large conductors?
Tin plated. Still requires oxide inhibitor and recommended torque.
The Al/Cu conductors were separated by the bar - right?
rlitman
Well-known member
Hacksaws work just fine.
I didn't actually see, but when I unwrap the other one I can check.
rlitman
Well-known member
That's what the bar is for, but once you switch to Polaris connectors, it's no longer important.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Whats wrong with a hacksaw?Thats the best way. Linemans pliers with two hands and work your way aroiund the cable. (Hacksaw.
Use 2 tools to tighten, not one. During tightening, wiggle the conductors to help the strands lay flatter and fill the slot better.
This is a pretty typical scene. The original air handler had a single circuit and the new one needs to be split in two. I've spliced them plenty of times before. I use H crimps but if the HVAC guy does it himself it's going to be something like a split bolt.
Split bolts are fine but a lot of people don't get them tight enough. That's what this looks like, a loose connection. If you're splicing 1/0 it needs to be TIGHT with two wrenches.
Split bolts are fine but a lot of people don't get them tight enough. That's what this looks like, a loose connection. If you're splicing 1/0 it needs to be TIGHT with two wrenches.
Thanks for the feedback! Everytime I open this system I learn something new.
I unwrapped the other connector, here are 2 shots. It doesn't look as bad, but there still seem to be scortch-marks. Whats really scary is that I was able to easily unscrew this connector. I'm assuming that they must have tightened it, but if so its hard to understand how I was able to unscrew it by hand. At least the AL feed wire had been coated with Noalox...
Here is the install with the Polaris connectors, they seem really sturdy. I trimmed back all of the wires, coated the Al feeds with Noalox, then tightened all as much as I could with an Allen key (long handled). I don't have a socket hex wrench for this size, so I wasn't able to torque it - is tightening a much as possible sufficient or should I get the socket and "do it right"?
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
The funny thing on the bad install is that noalox is not a requirement across the board. Only if the wire manufacturer calls for it. So they used it, when they probably did not need to, and got the rest of it wrong.
Doesn't hurt, though
Considering the current, I'd Torque it, but don't loosen and retighten. That requires cutting the wire back
Doesn't hurt, though
Considering the current, I'd Torque it, but don't loosen and retighten. That requires cutting the wire back
Thanks!