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30A 120V Required for Atlas 4 post?

Sawbladz

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I am struggling with the electrical plans for my Atlas PRO8000EXT lift that I am picking up on Monday. According to the manufacturer this lift requires a 30A breaker. The photos and discussion with the vendor confirm the plug is a standard plug style that will work with any 15 or 20A receptacle. All the 30A receptacles I know of are a different style and I've attached a photo for example.

The salesman told me they just have the demo unit plugged into a normal outlet on an extension cord. I am wiring in 5 20A outlets around the garage for general purpose but had expected to be able to run the lift from these outlets.

So what am I missing? Does a 30A receptacle exist to match with this lift?

I have also attached a photo of the Atlas power unit that shows the plug. This is the text that accompanies that photo:

Replacement 110volt Electric/Hydraulic power unit for a 2-Post or 4-Post lift (mounting bracket, outlet port, reservoir size, and horsepower may not work with or be suitable for all lifts). Power unit is 110 volt electric and comes with a power cord and 3-Prong plug. A 30 Amp breaker is required for this power unit.
 

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Sawbladz

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I don't have the lift yet but this is the info from the manual.
 

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Sawbladz

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Twist lock would also work if I want to meet the 30A. I could run a dedicated 10Ga wire to a 30A breaker. I assume the cord is lighter duty than that since it has a 3 prong plug on it so I would have to hope that the motor terminals could accept a heavier wire.

I just can't understand why they would supply a standard 3 prong plug if they spec their equipment at 30A. What does everyone else have on their 4 post for their electrical plug and what receptacle are you using?
 

infinkc

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Twist lock would also work if I want to meet the 30A. I could run a dedicated 10Ga wire to a 30A breaker. I assume the cord is lighter duty than that since it has a 3 prong plug on it so I would have to hope that the motor terminals could accept a heavier wire.

I just can't understand why they would supply a standard 3 prong plug if they spec their equipment at 30A. What does everyone else have on their 4 post for their electrical plug and what receptacle are you using?
My Dammar i just plug into a standard 20a outlet.
 

jbfsr

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I have an Atlas 9000 lift. I ran #10 with a standard 20A receptacle. The run to panel is about 25ft. I'm using a 20A breaker. It has never tripped. I bought a 30A breaker just in case, but the 20A has been fine. Only car that's been on it is a 1988 Thunderbird. Haven't tried my truck on it yet.
 

e015475

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I have an Atlas lift.

The salesman's demo unit may have worked ok on a standard outlet if there wasn't a car on it, but my experience was that it popped the 20A breaker when I plugged it into the garage with a vehicle on it. (It popped with a a 4000# car a few feet up in the air. It might have worked ok with something lighter)

I installed a 30A breaker and the receptacle shown in your original post.

I removed the cord/plug supplied by Atlas and replaced it with a 25-30' cord so I could move the lift around the garage or outside on the apron without installing multiple 30A receptacles.

Works fine now.
 

AA/FC

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I don't have the lift yet but this is the info from the manual.
I'm not a licensed electrician but this is how I see it....

3hp X 746 = 2238 watts

2238 watts ÷ 120 volts = 18.65 amps.

I don't believe it's considered a continuous load so it SHOULD work on a 20amp breaker..... but I'd probably run 10 gauge wire with a 30 amp breaker, along with a 30 amp plug and receptacle. (or hard wired)

Again, I'm not a Sparky.... one of those guys will stop by here eventually and set us all straight. lolol.
 
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Sawbladz

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I have an Atlas lift.

The salesman's demo unit may have worked ok on a standard outlet if there wasn't a car on it, but my experience was that it popped the 20A breaker when I plugged it into the garage with a vehicle on it. (It popped with a a 4000# car a few feet up in the air. It might have worked ok with something lighter)

I installed a 30A breaker and the receptacle shown in your original post.

I removed the cord/plug supplied by Atlas and replaced it with a 25-30' cord so I could move the lift around the garage or outside on the apron without installing multiple 30A receptacles.

Works fine now.
This is excellent info. Looks like I will be doing the same. Thanks
 

mm08822

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A 30a cb is wrong to put on general purpose 20a receptacle circuit.

People incorrectly do this to eliminate tripping of the circuit usually occurring during startup. Doing so, creates other unsafe conditions.

To properly fix this is to install a "high magnetic" version of a 1 pole 20 amp cb.
Siemens an SQ D make these. Not sure who else in the residential market. Might have to order it on line.

Other loads running on the same circuit simultaneously can also limit circuit capacity available to the lift motor.

Change the cb to high magnetic style and see how that works all around for you.

BTW, recepts in garage require gfci protection.
 

MFortie

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My 9K Atlas runs on a dedicated 20A circuit (12AWG conductors). Haven’t tripped a breaker yet. Used it with my GMC 2500 diesel, Jeep (TJ), ‘67 Chevelle, etc. with zero problems.
 

Bert_

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That nameplate is really something, 3hp on 120 volts...

It really shouldn't even run on a 30a circuit let alone a 20A. Electrical code would tell you that motor needs a 50A circuit.

Why do they build **** like this?

I get guys all the time that want a regular 120v cord on a 2hp sweep auger. If they won't listen then they find out themselves that it's going to trip a 20A breaker.
 
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Yankeefarmer

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My Advantage 9000 lb lift has a 120v motor. I added a 20 amp receptacle to feed it. When it arrived I discovered it was provided with a standard 15 amp plug. I just plug it into one of my 20 amp convenience outlet circuits. I tested it one morning when everything in the shop was in the low 40 degF range by lifting my F250 (maybe about 6900 lbs). No issues. Remember, it only runs for less than a minute at a time.
 

Mikes61

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I’ve got mine plugged into a standard wall receptacle in my garage. I think it’s 15A. I know it’s not over 20A, and it works fine. There’s a 3200 lb car on it.
 

600SL

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I'm not a licensed electrician but this is how I see it....

3hp X 746 = 2238 watts

2238 watts ÷ 120 volts = 18.65 amps.

I don't believe it's considered a continuous load so it SHOULD work on a 20amp breaker..... but I'd probably run 10 gauge wire with a 30 amp breaker, along with a 30 amp plug and receptacle. (or hard wired)

Again, I'm not a Sparky.... one of those guys will stop by here eventually and set us all straight. lolol.

A demo lift will run all day on a 15 amp circuit without a car on it.

Motor efficiency assume 85% = 18.65/.85 = 22A, Starting current ~ 3 times that = ~ 66 amps. I'm not a sparky either but I do know a few things.

I recommend wiring with 10ga on a dedicated 30A circuit.
 

600SL

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That nameplate is really something, 3hp on 120 volts...

It really shouldn't even run on a 30a circuit let alone a 20A. Electrical code would tell you that motor needs a 50A circuit.

Why do they build **** like this?

I get guys all the time that want a regular 120v cord on a 2hp sweep auger. If they won't listen then they find out themselves that it's going to trip a 20A breaker.

Strange that the motor has a HP rating but not a current or service factor. But my Shop Vac vacuum cleaner says 6.25HP and runs all day on a 15 amp 120V circuit.
 
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600SL

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My 9K Atlas runs on a dedicated 20A circuit (12AWG conductors). Haven’t tripped a breaker yet. Used it with my GMC 2500 diesel, Jeep (TJ), ‘67 Chevelle, etc. with zero problems.

Are you wired for 120V or 240V? Most lifts are wired for 240V and therefore require less current.
 

AA/FC

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Strange that the motor has a HP rating but not a current or service factor. But my Shop Vac vacuum cleaner says 6.25HP and runs all day on a 15 amp 120V circuit.
That's called... "Marketing ****". lolol

;)
 

kbuhagiar

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Cant put a 20a receptacle on a 30a breaker
Oh, but you can! You shouldn’t though.
And therein lies the conflict...the product ships with a standard 120VAC 20-amp cord, yet we are expected to remove the plug and exchange it for a 30-amp plug , and install a matching 10-gauge 30-amp outlet/circuit/breaker?

Something doesn't make sense. It seems as if the "30-amp breaker required" phrase was intended for the 240-volt version of this motor (as was available for some other manufacturers' versions of this lift), and it was accidentally inserted into these instructions. (I've seen more egregious errors than this in 'offshore' instruction manuals.)

FWIW I have the DirectLift version of this lift (they are all pretty much the same) with the 120-volt pump on a 20-amp circuit. I have been running loads (including a 2004 Chevrolet Silverado 1500) up and down on a weekly basis for seven years and I have never tripped the breaker.
 

600SL

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That's called... "Marketing ****". lolol

;)
"Marketing ****" I'm going to be using that from now on. I have noticed that with air compressors, the consumer protection people must have caught up with them. I used to see 120V, 15 amp compressors from Sears, HD, Lowes etc listed with 6.25HP as well. But not in the last 10 or so years. My Lowes Kobalt compressor is 3.7 HP and requires 240V with a 20A breaker. A little more realistic. But they still do get the 3.7HP by spinning the thing up to very high RPM.
 

wyliesdiesels

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Something doesn't make sense. It seems as if the "30-amp breaker required" phrase was intended for the 240-volt version of this motor (as was available for some other manufacturers' versions of this lift), and it was accidentally inserted into these instructions. (I've seen more egregious errors than this in 'offshore' instruction manuals.)
That wouldn't make sense either. Remember, with an inductive load, if the voltage is doubled, the current draw is halved. So operating at 240v most definitely wouldn't need a higher ampacity plug than when operating on 120v
 

wyliesdiesels

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"Marketing ****" I'm going to be using that from now on. I have noticed that with air compressors, the consumer protection people must have caught up with them. I used to see 120V, 15 amp compressors from Sears, HD, Lowes etc listed with 6.25HP as well. But not in the last 10 or so years. My Lowes Kobalt compressor is 3.7 HP and requires 240V with a 20A breaker. A little more realistic. But they still do get the 3.7HP by spinning the thing up to very high RPM.
Whats the FLA rating on the nameplate? If 17a or less then its 3hp or less based on NEC motor FLC table specs.
 

henrywyatt

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If it's really a 3HP AC motor it can likely be re-configured to run on 220. Find the motor datasheet.
220 will draw half the current.
 

600SL

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Whats the FLA rating on the nameplate? If 17a or less then its 3hp or less based on NEC motor FLC table specs.

I didn't say they weren't exaggerating, just not as much as the tall tails of days gone by. Bottom line with compressors is just look at the CFM ratings. I just checked, the recommend breaker for this is 30amp.

1712528582852.png
 
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Sawbladz

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So the fun continues.

Lift arrived and I assembled it Monday. ESA inspection for all the garage electrical work was completed yesterday and passed without issue. However, we did have a conversation regarding the lift and the 120V plug since he saw that I had a dedicated 30A receptacle/10Ga wire/30A breaker as well as the 10Ga cap tier and plug to make my own cord. ESA inspector said he would look into it and maybe they would reach our to the company to understand their wiring choices.

Later that day, ESA texted me to inform me that I would be getting an email telling me to not use the lift and get it field inspected. That I would need to work with the vendor to get this inspection completed before I could use it.

I've called their tech support line (I had to anyways since one of the locks on one column won't release), and will be forwarding them the paperwork when I receive it.
 

AffableCurmudgeon

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So the fun continues.

Lift arrived and I assembled it Monday. ESA inspection for all the garage electrical work was completed yesterday and passed without issue. However, we did have a conversation regarding the lift and the 120V plug since he saw that I had a dedicated 30A receptacle/10Ga wire/30A breaker as well as the 10Ga cap tier and plug to make my own cord. ESA inspector said he would look into it and maybe they would reach our to the company to understand their wiring choices.

Later that day, ESA texted me to inform me that I would be getting an email telling me to not use the lift and get it field inspected. That I would need to work with the vendor to get this inspection completed before I could use it.

I've called their tech support line (I had to anyways since one of the locks on one column won't release), and will be forwarding them the paperwork when I receive it.

WOW, that is a lot of headache for a 4 post lift circuit. For what it is worth, I have my Tuxedo 8K on a 120V, 20-amp dedicated circuit that has never tripped that breaker. Before I put it on that dedicated circuit, it worked fine on a shared 15-amp circuit. The plate on the motor says 2.5 HP - not sure how true that is.
 

wyliesdiesels

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WOW, that is a lot of headache for a 4 post lift circuit. For what it is worth, I have my Tuxedo 8K on a 120V, 20-amp dedicated circuit that has never tripped that breaker. Before I put it on that dedicated circuit, it worked fine on a shared 15-amp circuit. The plate on the motor says 2.5 HP - not sure how true that is.
What is the FLA rating on the nameplate?

3HP is 17a FLC so its not surprising that a 2.5hp will work, though 2.5hp is not a standard HP rating

EDIT: wrong values. was thinking of 240v. a 2hp 120v motor has a 24a FLC. so 20a for 2.5hp @ 120v is a bit off.
 
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