30X40X12 - After Fire Rebuild

[SpeedinLemon]

SpeedinLemon - Your shop is 30X40X12 and was originally built in 1999...looks very well build.
- good thread here

Any idea who the manufacture is, welded or bolted construction ?
- its what I am planning, to ajoin my 1125 sq.ft. shop (with low ceilings)

Thanks Beaumont -- The building kit came from Mueller Steel Buildings. (http://www.muellerinc.com/). They're mostly in the southwestern US....I see you're from Canada, but I'm sure there are similar companies closer to you. This was a bolt together kit that I built with help from friends/family and my brother in law who is a home builder. I have been very happy with it. The only thing I would do different is I would skip the roll insulation and just have the whole thing sprayed with foam after the shell is built. It's amazing how much difference just having the ceiling and top third of the walls sprayed has made.

 

[64dragnwagon]

Hey 64dragnwagon...HEre's the best shot I have handy of the outside of the door. I can get some better/close pics tomorrow if it would help you. You're worried about customers; I was worried about kids....works out about the same!

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Thanks for posting! Chris

Thanks, yeah a close up would be great. I currently have a concrete block service station that I run my used car lot out of and I have this problem. People come charging through the door and it hits the jamb and bends the hinges. I am just trying to picture the outside trim, I am sure I could figure it out but could use some idea of how to do it right.

 

[SpeedinLemon]

Thanks, yeah a close up would be great. I currently have a concrete block service station that I run my used car lot out of and I have this problem. People come charging through the door and it hits the jamb and bends the hinges. I am just trying to picture the outside trim, I am sure I could figure it out but could use some idea of how to do it right.

Here you go...See if this helps. Basically they just wrapped some matching green flashing trim around the red iron channel they made the door frames with. I would think it would work about the same on concrete block.

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Let me know what that does for you.....

 

[64dragnwagon]

Here you go...See if this helps. Basically they just wrapped some matching green flashing trim around the red iron channel they made the door frames with. I would think it would work about the same on concrete block.

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Let me know what that does for you.....

Thanks, that is just what I need. I doubt the material they sent includes enough for them to do that. That is how they finish the overhead door opening though so I could probably get some. I was going to buy a door with "brick molding on it which would have to be modified to mount it like that but it could be done. I will talk to the builders when they get here Monday.

 

[SpeedinLemon]

Out with the old:

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In with the new:

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So far it works only when I run an extension cord to it, but it's smooth and quiet. My only issue right now is I still have about a 1" gap where the top of the door and the door frame should meet. It looks like there should be a cover on the front of that opener to cover the bulb also. I haven't talked to the installer, and he didn't leave me a bill, so they might not be done yet. Door looks good I think and is a much tighter fit than the old one....top gap aside! I'm not looking forward to framing/trimming around the top of it though. I'll take some closeups of where the spring mech and rails bolt to the metal and see if you guys can give me some ideas.

 

[SpeedinLemon]

Just a brief update. I've had to go to out of town on business for the week, but I talked to my metal guy and he is supposed to come by some time this week and see what he can do about the flashing above the window. I got a few more pieces of wall board up before I left, but no progress this week. I have had a chance to catch up GJ browsing though. There are so many great ideas around here and the skills many of you guys have is unbelievable! I'm looking forward to getting back to the family (wife was less than thrilled with a business trip on Valentines day!) and getting some work done this weekend.

 

[Wingnut65]

For the gap at the top of the new door, they may have different brackets for the top rollers that push the door farther from the track when it makes that corner. Its hard to explain, but since the track starts to curve before the top of the door opening, the top rollers have to be further from the track to seal the gap. If it doesn't, then they ain't far away enough.

BTW, the door looks great. Big improvement.

I hear you on the travel. I had a field trip to Wichita on Monday, leaving Sunday afternoon. Got there just after the snow did. Luckily the trip was a quickie and I was back before midnight, just in time for the 14th. Just be sure to make it up to Mrs SiL when you return.

 

[Nighttrain]

That door is a nice update. It would expect it to go flush up there on top. Hope they will come back and adjust it. My roll up door is the only spot I have air coming in. Be safe on your travels.

 

[shopnut]

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I didn't notice until now that you have the doors with the internal shades. I wanted to point them out to others because they are a great idea for anyone that wants shade, but works in a dusty environment (or has nosey dogs that just NEED to shove their nose between the mini-blind slats to look out the window ). The shade is sealed between the panes of glass so it doesn't collect dust.

I didn't discover them until after our apartment doors were installed so I had to buy the add-on kits for those. The upstairs office door was purchased with it, luckily.

 

[flybefree]

I like the new door...especially the little windows so you can see out...wish I had thought of that!

Shaun

 

[SpeedinLemon]

Thanks for the comments guys. I got several hours in the shop Saturday and have some pics to share, but I'm getting an "Upload File Failed" message everytime I try to upload any new pics. I posted over in the Questions and Suggestion forum and it seems several others are having the same problem. So anyway....I got quite a bit more wall board up and also picked up a hot water heater and a few other odds and ends. I also got a better pic of the french doors with the blinds in between the glass that Shopnut pointed out. I'll keep working on the pictures and see if anyone has found a solution. If anyone has had this problem and solved it, I'd love to hear about it. I know the site has upgraded servers recently and I could definitely tell a difference in performance. I'm trying to remember if I've uploaded any pics since the upgrade.....

 

[SpeedinLemon]

Ok...The picture upload problem was totally self-inflicted (as most IT related problems are!). My pics were way too big...I posted my solution over in the Questions and Suggestions forum in case anyone is having a similar issue.

Anyway....on to the pics! As Shopnut pointed out, the french doors and my new man door have mini-blinds sandwiched in between two layers of glass. Shopnut hit all the major advantages...the only thing I would add is my previous blinds were always filthy with spider webs/fly droppings/various dead insects that found thier way into the shop, but could never seem to get back out. Hopefully with the upgraded doors/windows and the sealing factor of the sprayed insulation, my insect population will be greatly reduced! But the blinds inside the glass and out of harms way seems like a great fit especially in a shop environment. One odd thing about the french doors is they are only 6'6" tall. I'm 6'1", but my buddy that helped with the ceiling tin is 6'8" and will have to duck to walk through the door....I didn't realize you could get doors in that size....live and learn, but I won't be pulling it out!

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[SpeedinLemon]

I talked to the man that installed my garage door and there is a weatherstrip piece still to be installed which will seal up the gap at the top of my new garage door....So that issue should be resolved soon.

The man that did the metal work hasn't ever made it by to see about a rain diverter for the window that's leaking (more rain over the weekend...still leaks!). I'll try to follow up with him now that I'm back in town this week.

I did get quite a bit of time out in the shop on Saturday...weather was rainy and cold, so the family was fine with staying home and I got lots of uninterrupted time in the shop. For the amount of time I got, the progress doesn't seem like much, but I did finish up the last of the electrical wiring and spent some time cleaning up. It will just get messy again, but every now and then I just have to sweep and organize a little!

Here's where we are as of Sunday:

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More to come!!

 

[Red Leader]

Wow, great progress SiL!

What are your plans for the inside?

Very nice

 

[Wingnut65]

What are your plans for the inside?

I think he's trying to keep it dry!

Great work SiL. That wood is really finishing off the place. Are you gonna paint it or leave to weather?

As for the French Doors, great idea to use them here. We use them on ALF facilities for the courtyard doors. It prevents ripping off the blinds from the door as they get caught as one walks thru it. But I am amazed that they sell 6'-6" doors. Code for minimum head clearance in a means of egress is 6'-8". I guess your friend is use to ducking for doors to avoid headaches.

 

[Amazzen]

Looking good!

Did you install switched recepticles on the upper walls for things such as neon signs?

Also, before you close up that ceiling entirely, you may want to rough in some wire drops or air line drops for mid floor work areas.

I'm pretty sure you've got all this covered since its your "second time around" at accessorising, but just in case.

Its great that you're getting a chance to "enhance" the place and that some "good" is coming from the fire, but I'm pretty sure you would trade it all for no fire at all... dealing with fire damage is a difficult experience at best (even with no one harmed).

I think a good attitude and loving family go a long way in the healing process...looks like you have that covered too!

Thanks for sharing.

PS I always worry about those dirty rags...perhaps its time to dedicate a metal trash can outside the shop for them... (its on today's list)

 

[SpeedinLemon]

Wow, great progress SiL!

What are your plans for the inside?

Very nice

Thanks RL...it is coming along...slow but sure. Plans for the inside? That's the million $$ question and now that the shell is nearing completion I am going to have to start making some decisions. I don't know if you looked at the Sketchup drawings I posted previously, but that's the general idea. The front half is more or less workshop space and the back will be more of a hangout area. In the workshop area I will have a workbench under the overhang from the storage area up top. Here's the concept:
View media item 16919The far left will be an enclosed cabinet with shelves. The cabinets above the workbench will have lights mounted underneath and shelves in between. I'm contemplating some Red Leader inspired shelves on the right side above my "to be restored" Craftsman 150 DP. Under the workbench I will permanently mount the stainless Craftsman toolbox pictured in previous posts and an open area with a shelf set back for jack stands or something similar.

Parallel to the workbench I plan to build an assembly table/storage/outfeed table approximately 3' X 8'. It will have a drop down area for the miter saw (removable) and storage underneath. It will be the same height as my table saw:
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Thoughts or suggestions?

 

[SpeedinLemon]

I think he's trying to keep it dry!

Great work SiL. That wood is really finishing off the place. Are you gonna paint it or leave to weather?

As for the French Doors, great idea to use them here. We use them on ALF facilities for the courtyard doors. It prevents ripping off the blinds from the door as they get caught as one walks thru it. But I am amazed that they sell 6'-6" doors. Code for minimum head clearance in a means of egress is 6'-8". I guess your friend is use to ducking for doors to avoid headaches.

Dry and smoke-free are the top priorities! Please explain "ALF facilities". Don't think I've heard that before. I just went and remeasured the doors. The actual door is 6'5" and from floor to top of the door jamb is 6'7". I'm very surprised HD would sell something not up to standard builders code. But I think I'll find a "Low Clearance" sign, mount it above the door and call it good!

I'm planning on painting the wooden walls on the inside. Plan is some sort of green / light Khaki combination...maybe even a stripe! I don't know if you've noticed, but there are three outlets mounted on their side about 8' above the floor around the shop. I will use those to plug in LED rope lights to circle the shop and provide "mood lighting" when needed. I'm working on some sort of trim piece setup that I can mount the rope lights in where they shine up, but aren't visible directly. I'll probably paint that trim section in a contrasting color.

 

[SpeedinLemon]

Looking good!

Did you install switched recepticles on the upper walls for things such as neon signs?

Also, before you close up that ceiling entirely, you may want to rough in some wire drops or air line drops for mid floor work areas.

I'm pretty sure you've got all this covered since its your "second time around" at accessorising, but just in case.

Its great that you're getting a chance to "enhance" the place and that some "good" is coming from the fire, but I'm pretty sure you would trade it all for no fire at all... dealing with fire damage is a difficult experience at best (even with no one harmed).

I think a good attitude and loving family go a long way in the healing process...looks like you have that covered too!

Thanks for sharing.

PS I always worry about those dirty rags...perhaps its time to dedicate a metal trash can outside the shop for them... (its on today's list)

Thanks for dropping by Amazzen! Yes the upper recepticles are switched. There are three circuits total. The north end, south end and the the outlets for the rope lights are all switched separately.

On the ceiling....I have one dedicated 20amp circuit pulled up there now in addition to the wires for the lighting. The dedicated circuit is for the door opener, a ceiling mounted air cleaner and also a hanging work light/extension cord. Anything else I might need up there? The other thing I want to run up there is a hot and cold water line up to the front of the shop so I have hot water available to wash cars under the awning out front. I need to talk to my plumber to see if it would be ok to to run some Pex tubing between the tin ceiling and the roof...Anybody have thougths on that?

It is turning into a project that I'm enjoying and I appreciate your comments. I think it will be a much more usable space than I had before.

 

[Wingnut65]

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I see how your concept is coming to reality. The cabinet concept looks like it should work well. You may want to think about clearances needed for the vice and DP and spacing between each. But with your DP on the corner, you may have it covered.

For the lines in the ceiling/roof space, consider your freeze protection requirements for your area. And the heat up there in summer may not give much 'cold' water outside for quite a while till it cools the line. Just a thought.

Keep up the great work.

EDIT... An ALF is an Assisted Living Facility (senior living). It's one step above Independent Living Facilities and one lower than Memory Care facilities. I design them for a living and have my room already picked out in the ALF. We're all probably going to one eventually.

 

[racerbob4]

First blackjack table i've seen in a garage.

 

[64dragnwagon]

Ok...The picture upload problem was totally self-inflicted (as most IT related problems are!). My pics were way too big...I posted my solution over in the Questions and Suggestions forum in case anyone is having a similar issue.

Anyway....on to the pics! As Shopnut pointed out, the french doors and my new man door have mini-blinds sandwiched in between two layers of glass. Shopnut hit all the major advantages...the only thing I would add is my previous blinds were always filthy with spider webs/fly droppings/various dead insects that found thier way into the shop, but could never seem to get back out. Hopefully with the upgraded doors/windows and the sealing factor of the sprayed insulation, my insect population will be greatly reduced! But the blinds inside the glass and out of harms way seems like a great fit especially in a shop environment. One odd thing about the french doors is they are only 6'6" tall. I'm 6'1", but my buddy that helped with the ceiling tin is 6'8" and will have to duck to walk through the door....I didn't realize you could get doors in that size....live and learn, but I won't be pulling it out!

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My guess is you accidentally bought a mobile home door. They are shorter than traditional doors and are common.

 

[SpeedinLemon]

I see how your concept is coming to reality. The cabinet concept looks like it should work well. You may want to think about clearances needed for the vice and DP and spacing between each. But with your DP on the corner, you may have it covered.

For the lines in the ceiling/roof space, consider your freeze protection requirements for your area. And the heat up there in summer may not give much 'cold' water outside for quite a while till it cools the line. Just a thought.

Keep up the great work.

EDIT... An ALF is an Assisted Living Facility (senior living). It's one step above Independent Living Facilities and one lower than Memory Care facilities. I design them for a living and have my room already picked out in the ALF. We're all probably going to one eventually.

Thanks for reposting the Sketchup drawing Wingnut. I need to go back and update it and play with some other layouts I'm toying with. The workbench area is pretty locked in, but everything in front of it is up in the air. I did put the DP on the end so I can use the workbench to support longer items if needed. I hadn't thought about the vice being right in the way of that though....something else to check on! On the water lines, I'm more worried about them freezing than worried about hot (cold) water in the summer. I read that the Pex tubing is somewhat more forgiving than copper....any body have an idea on that? I also figured with some creative valving/venting I could shut off those lines, have a valve that would open and allow them to drain during really cold times (which are pretty few and far between in my neck of the woods). What do you guys think?

BTW - Wingut - I saw a "Salt Life" sticker on a truck today and wouldn't have even know what it was if not for you. Thanks for the info on the "ALF" and you're right...we'll all be there someday. Not a pleasant thought, but we've been blessed to find an excellent facility where my Grandfather spent his last few years and my Grandmother is still residing. You hear horror stories sometimes, but the good ones are a godsend! I bet that's interesting work.

 

[SpeedinLemon]

First blackjack table i've seen in a garage.

Thanks for posting RB4....It's actually going to be a poker table rather than a blackjack table...but the BJ table was a premade Sketchup model I found. I just put in there for scale/reference. The poker table won't be permanently setup though.....just brought out for the occaisional game. Shuffle up and deal!

 

[SpeedinLemon]

My guess is you accidentally bought a mobile home door. They are shorter than traditional doors and are common.

Thanks for stopping by again 64DW. I never considered MH doors being different size than a standard home door....do shorter people generally buy mobile homes??

I will go look again next time I'm in HD. I'm curious now.

 

[SpeedinLemon]

AND THERE WAS LIGHT!!!

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Mom and Dad came in this weekend and Dad helped me get the panel wired up and we were able to get the overhead lights, several circuits with outlets and my overhead quad plug for the garage door opener, air cleaner/filter and cord reel plug/worklight up and working:

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I thought Dad did a real good job on the panel:

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We ended up 4 - 20 amp circuit breakers short, but the wires are pulled inside the panel and labeled. I'll hopefully get those installed and more of the plugs and outdoor lights finished up this week. Feels good to be able to walk in the shop and flip a switch and be rewarded with light! I haven't decided yet if the four lights will be enough. I left a loop of wire half way in between, so I can go back and add a third 8' section of lights on each side if needed.

 

[Wingnut65]

Congrats on the milestone. That panel is from the textbook. Looks great. And it didn't take any more time to do it nicely and it will b eso easy to work on years from now.

For your space needs, we added a few of these Double-Pole Breakers to my panel and now I have a few spare circuits in the attic for future needs. Maybe they would work for you too. Since we will never have every outlet in the house full and those electronics, devices, machines, etc, all turned on at the one same time, the panel will never be overloaded.

Photo links to HD, but they all carry them.

 

[SpeedinLemon]

Thanks Wingnut...Those double circuit breakers could come in handy. When I said we came up 4 CBs short though, it was the CBs themselves, not places to put them. Even though I have several more individual circuits than I did pre-fire, we are taking out 3- 240 volt double circuits and I had some room to grow at the bottom of the panel also. The three 240V circuits I'm putting back (AC/Water Heater panel, Septic/Pool Equipment Panel, Welder/Dust collector circuit) will get installed in the 200 amp main panel on the exterior wall right behind my 125 Amp interior panel. So I picked up 4 more of the single 20 amp CBs and got those put in. Also installed 15 or so outlets and exterior lights. So progress is being made, but not much picture worthy at this point. We'll see if tomorrow provides any quality shop time and more progress!

 

[SpeedinLemon]

Progress continues..slow, but there is progress!

Outdoor lights:
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View media item 17516Note the recently upgraded farm truck!

The center beam is all boxed in:

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A little more wall board up:
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[SpeedinLemon]

And my current dilemma:

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I need to figure out how to trim in behind the garage door mechanicals. I framed along the top and it is even with the rest of the wall board, but the garage door is mounted to the steel frame and sits back about the width of a 2X4. My best idea so far is to run some 1X2 trim around and then use some 1/4" ply of some kind to cover the area directly behind the spring. I'd like to pull all those mechanicals off and put 3/4" ply in behind, but i know there are special tools involved and possibly skills I'm not aware of to taking the tension off that spring in order to take everything loose. As long as I can make it look ok, I'm good with trimming around. You guys have any thoughts or advice?

Chris

 

[shopnut]

Regarding your dilemma - Why not cover it all up, springs and all. I guess it would be bumped out maybe 4 or 6" from the rest of the wall, but that may look fine. Just have it so panels can be removed for servicing anything behind there. It would also keep dirt off your oiled springs.

 

[M. Blue 240]

^I'd box it in too. I think it will have a nice clean look and offer a little protection if the springs ever breaks. I have a friend whose spring broke and (as he put it) "went dancing on his car." Now its got me scared and I want to box my springs in to offer a little protection.

 

[SpeedinLemon]

^I'd box it in too. I think it will have a nice clean look and offer a little protection if the springs ever breaks. I have a friend whose spring broke and (as he put it) "went dancing on his car." Now its got me scared and I want to box my springs in to offer a little protection.

Regarding your dilemma - Why not cover it all up, springs and all. I guess it would be bumped out maybe 4 or 6" from the rest of the wall, but that may look fine. Just have it so panels can be removed for servicing anything behind there. It would also keep dirt off your oiled springs.

Thanks for the ideas guys. I'm not sure why that never occurred to me. I guess i thought I'd interfere with the working of the door. But now that you guys point it out, with some careful planning I may be able to make it work. And you're right...that way would look much cleaner and keep the springs clean. Thanks again!

 

[Wingnut65]

SiL, the garage door spring is the one piece of my garage that scares the daylights out of me. I know there is so much tension in it to do serious damage if not done properly. Until I learn the right way, I let the experts handle it. That said, I'd pass on the idea of moving the mechanics out.

shopnut and 240 had a good idea of boxing it out, but there will need to be a full width removable access panel to service the door, meaning to replace the springs when the eventually give up their life. And when the door won't open, a visual of the spring will not be quick.

My first thought was to put a ceiling panel behind it to fill in the recess.

My second thought was that maybe it doesn't need the wood framing above the door flush with the rest of the wall. Maybe the wood in the whole space above the door is mounted closer to the steel frame to get it behind the door. Or maybe the whole area is ceiling panels that would extend the white ceiling down to the white of the door.

Just a couple ideas to ponder.

Ya know, if you don't ask questions, we can't help you change your plans for your place... But then again, you will do it the way you feel is the best. Keep on building...

 

[SpeedinLemon]

SiL, the garage door spring is the one piece of my garage that scares the daylights out of me. I know there is so much tension in it to do serious damage if not done properly. Until I learn the right way, I let the experts handle it. That said, I'd pass on the idea of moving the mechanics out....

Thanks Wingnut -- This part is a given. I won't be messing with that spring or anything attached to it!!

I do need to keep at least the top few inches all the way across flush with the rest of the wall so that I can mount the J-Channel that the ceiling tin panels are mounting to. I do have some spare tin than matches, so covering that area with some of the ceiling material is another possibility I hadn't considered. I think I'll get that very top triangle covered up, j channel mounted, and then see what I have to work with. Thanks for the ideas and looking out for me!

 

[Red Leader]

Thanks RL...it is coming along...slow but sure. Plans for the inside? That's the million $$ question and now that the shell is nearing completion I am going to have to start making some decisions. I don't know if you looked at the Sketchup drawings I posted previously, but that's the general idea. The front half is more or less workshop space and the back will be more of a hangout area. In the workshop area I will have a workbench under the overhang from the storage area up top. Here's the concept:
View media item 16919The far left will be an enclosed cabinet with shelves. The cabinets above the workbench will have lights mounted underneath and shelves in between. I'm contemplating some Red Leader inspired shelves on the right side above my "to be restored" Craftsman 150 DP. Under the workbench I will permanently mount the stainless Craftsman toolbox pictured in previous posts and an open area with a shelf set back for jack stands or something similar.

Parallel to the workbench I plan to build an assembly table/storage/outfeed table approximately 3' X 8'. It will have a drop down area for the miter saw (removable) and storage underneath. It will be the same height as my table saw:
View media item 16900
Thoughts or suggestions?

Just saw the Sketchup. Very nice. I like it a lot.

The shelves that I built were pretty easy to do. It just took a while. A lot of guys here are able to put that stuff together in a day. Mine definitely took longer. If you have the time, why not have some fun with it? If you decide to go that route feel free to ask me anything.

 

[SpeedinLemon]

The shelves that I built were pretty easy to do. It just took a while. A lot of guys here are able to put that stuff together in a day. Mine definitely took longer. If you have the time, why not have some fun with it? If you decide to go that route feel free to ask me anything.

Thanks for the offer RL, your build is so well documented though, I will be referring back to it when I get to the shelves. I haven't checked in to see if you've gotten the workbench going further and since I'm in a bit of a holding pattern on the rest of the wall board with my electrician/friend, when I found myself in the shop with a few hours of free time over the weekend, I went ahead and thew together my work bench. I didn't take any process pics, but construction was pretty straight forward. Just built a 2X4 "ladder frame", used a 4X4 post on the right side, double 2X4's in the middle and 3/4 ply to cover everything with a double layer as the bench top. It's very solid and I think will look ok with a coat of paint. I also got the main parts cut out for the enclosed cabinet to the left of the bench, but nothing assembled there yet. See what you guys think:

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[SpeedinLemon]

As i get the shop reorganized a bit, I came across a few cool Craftsman tools that will need attention when I get to actually working on a project in the shop instead of the shop as the project!

Need to get a proper blade for this one:

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And his brother the circular saw and grinder from about the same era:

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All work fine, just have some surface rust from the fire.

And a new saw purchase. My miter saw was one of my most used tools previously...but it was not restorable:

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So I replaced it with this:

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12" Sliding compound miter saw. It made short work of the 4X4 post and also 13+ inch 3/4 ply was no problem. This is available through Amazon at $337 including shipping. I know Metabo has a good reputation for grinders and so far I'm pleased with this saw.

I saw a vise similar to this here:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2173248

Red Leader was kind enough to enlighten me on it and I was off to ebay! A few days later, I was the proud owner of this Wilton Shop King vise:

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About $40 including shipping for a very cool art-deco look vise. It seems in really good shape, just needs cleanup and either fresh paint, or I may leave it naked as I saw in Taumac's post.

What do you guys think?

 

[tinbender 66]

I think 40 bucks is a steal. I'd probably paint it but that's just me.

 

[shopnut]

Here's the concept:
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Thoughts or suggestions?

See what you guys think:

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SpeedinLemon - Great to see another post from ya!

When I first saw the sketch, I thought "Good, he remembered a toekick down at the bottom", but now I see it materialize without one. Is there still one in the plan (maybe by lifting the toolbox some)? You have it far enough along now that you should be able to tell if it bothers you or not as is. Benches just don't feel right to me without one.

Okay, now that the constructive criticism is over, let me say that is shaping up to be a great looking workstation. Although it doesn't look like there will be much visible when it's all finished, what do you plan to do with the exposed plywood?

My opinion on the vise - If you plan on using is hard (who doesn't?) I would probably give a quick paint job in the same color (or maybe not paint it at all). That way future chips won't be so noticable. Red is a good color for a vise, anyway. I would leave the original paint as a base coat because my methods never seem to come close to the original adhesion level of the OEM paint and it looks like that one has already stood the test of time. YMMV. Nice deal by the way!

Have fun!