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30x48 pole barn for workshop

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project_junkie

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Oct 13, 2011
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Marysville, Ohio
I has been a while since I posted an update. Vinyl siding takes a long time to put up but I like the finished look once it is done. I still have the gables to finsih but at least everything else is finally done. Will be getting the doors soon. Then it will be secure. Ther pics below are from the past 2 weeks. I also put up a couple of 8' lights on the back wall and mounted a plug in a box on the inside of the front wall. Now when I need power and light in the building I just bring the plug from an extension cord into the main garage and plug it in. Then the lights are powered and the plug. Will improve my efficiency in working on it in the evenings.
 

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royalton10

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Oct 19, 2007
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Lancaster, Ohio
Are you putting in vents on the gable end? My neighbor resided his house and put in a vent at top even though it does not vent. It breaks up the look of the siding. Just an fyi.

Is your trim white at the corners? Nice touch!
 
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project_junkie

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Marysville, Ohio
Thanks T-bird.

Royalton10 - I do plan to put gable vents in. I plan to make them functional to assure I get plenty of ventilation in the attic. I am matching our house and yes the corners are antique white. They are a little softer than white.
 

ESwartz

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Jun 30, 2009
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Would you mind telling me how much you're spending? I'm looking at a similar building. If not, I understand.
 
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project_junkie

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Oct 13, 2011
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Marysville, Ohio
I don't mind sharing the costs. vntperformance asked earlier as well. Once I get it closer to completion I will post a breakdown of the costs and identify subcontracted labor costs. I can tell you that I am just under $20,000 right now. That does not include garage doors and most everything I still need to finish the inside. It does include $4000 in labor for the initial build by the Amish and the concrete work. Hope that helps for now.
 

vntperformance

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Oct 31, 2011
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Severn, Maryland 21144
I don't mind sharing the costs. vntperformance asked earlier as well. Once I get it closer to completion I will post a breakdown of the costs and identify subcontracted labor costs. I can tell you that I am just under $20,000 right now. That does not include garage doors and most everything I still need to finish the inside. It does include $4000 in labor for the initial build by the Amish and the concrete work. Hope that helps for now.

Thanks, all this time I thought you were ignoring my question. :headscrat
 
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project_junkie

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Marysville, Ohio
No not at all. Just not sure yet myself how much it will be when I am done. Will provide a breakdown so you know what I have in it when it is insulated and drywalled.
 
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project_junkie

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Marysville, Ohio
My older son came home for Thanksgiving and we were able to get one gable completely sided and started on the other. We should finish all the vinyl siding tomorrow. Will post pics then.
 
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project_junkie

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We finsihed the vinyl siding today! I didn't think we would ever get that done. Almost every piece in the gables had to be cut or fitted around something. Below are pics of us working on the gables that last couple of days. And lastly the finished product. Next I will be ordering the garage doors. Then it will be done on the outside and ready to move to inside framing and wiring.
 

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project_junkie

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Thanks Cletus. Preogress is slowing down now that the weather has turned. Once I get the garage doors installed I will get to installing studs and running the wiring.
 
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project_junkie

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Marysville, Ohio
Now that cold weather has arrived in Ohio, progress has all but stopped. I did get the doors installed earlier this week. Now it is secure and I can use it for storage. I will spend the next couple of months working on some projects in the kitchen (cabinets around the refrigerator, a pantry, and an island). Then when the weather clears in March, I will be back out in the shop to pick up where I left off. Attached are some updated photos, including the tall door and how it tracks right up the ceiling, and an overall shot showing the house too.
 

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NXGTS

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Sep 15, 2009
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275
Location
Indiana
Nice build. I am fond of the size. I wish I could have gone pole foundation on mine. It would have saved me thousands. Good luck with the rest of your build. :beer:
 
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project_junkie

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Oct 13, 2011
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Marysville, Ohio
Finally back on my building project. First order of business was to get the elctric run from the house to the building. Here are some pics while I had the trench open. It is closed up now.
 

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project_junkie

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Now I have been building up the interior walls. First I started filling in between the posts. Then I started on the interior wall that will divide the last bay off from the other two.
 

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project_junkie

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Marysville, Ohio
And today I scored a set of exterior entrance doors as slabs that I will use in the 6 foot opening in my interior wall. They are solid pine with 4 small panes in the upper part.
 

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project_junkie

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Thanks. I now have all the framing done and just need to work on the curved part at the top of the half round window. Then I will be moving on to finishing the rough wiring so I can insulate and drywall. I just keep telling myself that the end is in site.
 
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project_junkie

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Marysville, Ohio
Thanks oilslick. I was wanting to go bigger but couldn't really afford it. I was going to go 30 x 30 and priced it that way and 30 x 48 and decided this was the right size for the money. I also priced doing some other options with a 12' bay for the lift and then 8' walls for the rest, but that made more complex roof and walls, or I didn't like the way it would look, so settled on this approach with the one vaulted bay.
 

oilslick

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Hey junkie, I am wondering what pitch the roof is? Also now that it is far along would you recommend leaving more headroom for hoist or do you figure it's good, I am wondering about a van or truck with topper or ladder rack on the lift hitting the door. Any tips for a guy still in the planning stage? What is the measurement floor to ceiling in lift bay? I am thinking about going 6/12 roof and maybe 32' instead of 30'. I really like the siding insteadof steel and think that Osb adds strength to them walls. I hope to space my trusses further though and skip the roof sheeting and use steel .
 
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project_junkie

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Hi Oilslick, Mine is 6/12 pitch. I have just under 14' at the peak of the ceiling inside. The ceiling is about 12' high, 5 feet each way from the center. Going to 32' will always help. The key though is that I went with a 9' door on that bay and the track follows the slope of my ceiling so I do not lose much due to the door being open (see post # 58). Could a van with ladder racks hit my door if it were open? Probably. Haven't worried too much about that since I don't plan to use mine that way. I am looking to use it for Jeeps, sports cars, etc. If I need to do something on a larger vehicle and can't raise it all the way up, I figure it will still be better than laying on the ground. I plan to make or buy a seat with rollers.

One reason I went with trusses 2' on center is because I wasnt to insulate and drywall the inside. It will be a lot easier to do that with 2' centers. And the OSB on the roof under the metal will make a much stronger roof as well.

Hope this helps.
 
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project_junkie

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I was able to get my new doors installed in my interior wall. They are solid exterior doors. I like the way they turned out.
 

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project_junkie

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I don't recall how much the 9' door was by itself. I spent just under $2500 for all 3 doors installed. They are Clopays and match my house garage door, insulated, raised panel, etc. Could have saved some and went with another brand, but that was not something I wanted to do since the house and the garage are relatively close.
 
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project_junkie

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I used 1/2" OSB and it worked fine. Could probably use 7/16" as well if you wanted to save a little on the total cost. Also, we used 5/8" OSB on the roof under the metal.
 
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project_junkie

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Oct 13, 2011
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Marysville, Ohio
I did not insulate under the slab. I considered it, along with tube heating the floor, etc. I decided to not do either, partly based on how I plan to use the building. I won't be working in my shop during the coldest parts of Winter. I have my wood working shop in the basement of my house and tend to migrate to those kinds of projects during Winter months. If I need to make any repairs to vehicles in the cold months, I will just set a heater right next to me until the project is done. But if you plan to use your building in cold weather, I would definitely do both. Note that I am going to be insulating the walls and ceiling very well so I won't have huge heat loss, just a cold floor.
 

oilslick

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I do not want to heat 24 hours a day, I do think perimeter insulation seems to make sense. Will heat with my waste oil furnace. Spray foam estimate was 7600!!!! Guess I will be going a different route.
 

clcartwr

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Dec 4, 2008
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Rogersville, AL
I really like the vinyl siding. I have been kicking around the idea of doing it also to match my house but had not seen vinyl on a pole barn until now and didn't know how well it would finish out. But I have to say it does look really nice especially with the windows. Any updates as of recently?
 
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project_junkie

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Oct 13, 2011
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Marysville, Ohio
Thanks for the compliments on the siding. I have done two pole barns with vinyl siding. It definitely takes a lot longer to install than traditional steal siding, but I like the way it matches the house and looks more "stick built" other than the boards below the siding rather than block or poured wall.

I have been working on the building again since Spring. I am coming up on the 1-year anniversary of starting the project. October 6, 2011 was the day I drilled the holes for the poles. It has come a LONG way since then. I will be putting up the last piece of drywall tonight and will be mudding soon. So, I have been busy with a lot of wiring, running airlines, insulating, and drywalling. I haven't been posting any pics since May. I need to catch up on the pics sometime soon.
 
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