37-220 Jointer Assembly Question

[BleedingGums]

I recently acquired a Rockwell/Delta 37-220 that I tore down and am now reassembling. Not sure of the age, but I'm guessing 60's. The bearings on the cutterhead are different sizes, which according to the parts diagram I have this would indicate an "earlier model." The bearings that came with it were a mess, so I replaced those. The tables are in pretty good condition, with very little rust. It has a closed stand with a wheel kit, but not the cool one, just the plain Jane box. It also has a dual voltage ¾-hp motor.



When I took it apart, I made sure to keep all of pieces grouped together so that when reassembled, they would all be matched up as they were before I took it apart. Now that I am ready to reassemble, I am having a bit of an issue. As isolated groups, the parts fit together just fine (ie the end of the adjusting screw fits into the bushing and moves freely), but when I insert the bushing and the adjusting screw into their corresponding bores, they bind up more than I would expect. It seems as if the bore holes in the table casting are ever so slightly out of alignment. I can get the parts back together as they should be, they just don't turn as freely as I would expect. I can turn the adjusting screw with the handle, but it is stiff, and I imagine it will be even worse once the tables are assembled back onto the base given the weight of the table will be an added factor. There was so much caked on saw dust before I cleaned it up, I didn't get a good feel for how well these parts moved before I took it apart. Also, this is my first jointer, so I'm not sure what to expect as far as how easy these tables should be to adjust, but I am a bit surprised at how stiff the adjustment is given that I have cleaned all the parts. Before I do anything drastic, I figured I would reach out and get some input from those who have experience with similar jointers. I was thinking about perhaps honing the inside of the bushing bore with some sandpaper wrapped around a pin of similar diameter, but I don't want to make the bore too loose. Any thoughts?

 

[RTM]

Are you lubing the parts appropriately before assembling?

What materials are you assembling (i.e. brass bushings vs steel bearings into a cast iron casting)

How did you clean the parts, soaking and wiping vs scraping off grease?

Just some quick thoughts, linking a parts diagram and list may help others decipher things.

 

[BleedingGums]

Thanks for the reply.

I lubed the outfeed table parts with wax and they seem to be OK. Didn't want to use oil or anything that would collect dust.
The infeed table parts are the ones giving me the issue. Have only test fit them together so far and have not yet applied any wax. The binding of the parts was enough to make me want to stop and evaluate whether or not I needed to do something to address this before putting it all back together.

I believe the bushing is steel, which goes into a bore hole in the cast iron table. The steel screw pin is then inserted into an opposing bore hole in the cast iron table. The end of the screw pin has a smaller diameter than the threaded portion of the screw pin and this smaller end is what goes into the bushing:



In the above pic, the bushing is not inserted all the way, but is left proud just for the picture. When the bushing is fully in place (ie flush with the side of the table), the adjustment handle attaches to that end of the screw pin. When assembled like this, the screw pin is stiff to turn. When I slide the bushing on the end of the screw pin like this:



...the bushing rotates freely on the end of the pin (the flat is where the set screw for the adjustment handle goes). I rolled the pin on my table saw (80's unisaw) top and the pin does not appear to be bent.

As far as cleaning is concerned, I soaked all of the parts in mineral spirits and scrubbed them with a toothbrush.

I have the parts list and diagram as a pdf but can convert to pdf to post here.

 

[Whitworth]

My input;
Something is kinked, bent, has a burr, or an alignment issue.
De-burr (gently) any problem areas you find. You may want to polish the moving parts with maroon scotchbrite.

Try rotating the bushing in the casting and see if operation smooths up. It was smooth before, so it should be able to get to the same equilibrium as it was.

Lots of lubricant (oil) for assembly, excess can be removed later.

 

[y'sguy]

First, I have to say I have never worked with those particular parts.

So, here goes. Your idea of a light sanding (very light) is OK. But, what I have found to be very effective is to place the bushing part in your deep freeze overnight. Then use a heat gun, not flame! to warm the cast iron part, just enough till it is hot to the touch. If the part is small enough you can place it on a hot plate for a while. Then try to reassemble. Remember IT"S HOT. Bearings and bushing go together much easier this way.

All this said, obviously hoping you have assembled it correctly.

 

[BleedingGums]

Thanks for the replies. FWIW - the bushing fits into the bore hole no problem. Rotating the bushing within the bore hole is a good idea, if I can find a mark on the bushing from the set screw, I should be able to get the bushing back to it’s original position.

Thanks again.

Luke

 

[My Old Tools]

I would put some dry lube (like moly chain lube) onto the rotating parts first of all. I don't think wax is adequate there. Use wax on the sliding surfaces. Rotating the bushing may find a sweet spot that helps. I would remove the burrs from the set screw as well. Is the bushing facing the correct way?

 

[BleedingGums]

I picked up some dry lube and dressed the bushing and the skinny part of the screw pin with some 120 grit sand paper (I also made sure the bushing was inserted the same way as it was originally). Small improvement in the movement, but upon closer inspection, the skinny end of the screw pin (the part the goes into the bushing) does appear to be ever so slightly bent. While assembled, movement is fine through 180 degrees of rotation, but the opposite 180 degrees is where it binds some. If necessary, it will be tolerable as is if I cannot find a replacement pin or figure out a way to bend this one back straight. I've never done it before, but I have seen references to straightening steel with a torch. I'll look into the torch approach a bit more before I attempt, but if anyone has any suggestions I'd love to hear them. Thanks again.

 

[Whitworth]

It's mild steel, you don't need a torch.