4 post lift discussion

[grabeb]

Got my 4 post installed a few weeks back and I've slowly been playing with it. Both with vehicle storage and a maintenance items I've been putting off on our vehicles. The one I got was an Advantage DX-9000-XLT.

I'm considering lighting for under the lift platform as well as on top of the platform. The issue is, when I have a car stowed, 6'-10" in the air it blocks a good portion of my ceiling light, so I'm thinking either some LED strip lights or some real low profile LED lights I could install under the runway. Of course of the hydraulic side, they'd have to stay out of the way, hence low profile. Then I've been trying to figure out the best way to light up the under carriage of the car(s) when working on them, so on top of the runway might be nice as well. I'm again thinking LED strip lights as I could tuck them into the channel that the drip trays and jack tray run along. I know they sell a kit for this, but they seem over priced....maybe they aren't just want to weigh my options first. Wireless remote would be ideal. At least for the under lift lights.

For working on cars, maybe I just need some rechargeable magnetic lights. Again, looking at options that work great. I've been using a few plug in Kobalt 7000lumen shop lights. They are great lights, just very bright when you screw up and look into them. They also aren't magnetic, so they can be hard to place.

Next is jacking the car up to work on. I have a few options for bottle jacks and jack stands, not sure how I feel about those options though. I'd assume as long as lift isn't being raised/lowered, the bottle jacks to get into air with jack stands to support isn't horribly unsafe, but curious of what others are doing. My jack tray supports 4500lbs. Next up, I'm looking hard at the rolling jacks that they sell for the lift. What I don't know is do I do pneumatic or manual...there's a $300-400 difference for the air! My lightest vehicle is my daughters Jeep Wrangler, our biggest is Yukon XL Denali trim AWD.

I'm sure I'll have more questions about what everyone else has experienced pro's/con's or tricks to make it even better! If that is even possible!!!!

 

[racecougar]

I'll try to answer all of these questions, but we'll see if I miss any.

For lighting the underside of the vehicle on top of the lift, here is what I used:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FHNJUGO/?tag=atomicindus08-20

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0838WJBKR/?tag=atomicindus08-20

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D32S29P/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I drilled and tapped the runways, then bolted the light channels in place. The lights are powered from a HF-purchased power strip mounted under one of the runways.







It works exceptionally well. It's quite nice to not need a trouble light or head lamp when working under a vehicle.



You could do the same to provide light beneath the lift as well. Just double your material order and mount the second set of lights under the ramps.

 

[racecougar]

As far as jacking up a vehicle goes, I used the jack tray with both a bottle jack and a large scissor jack for awhile. Neither felt particularly safe (I did use jackstands when not actively raising/lowering the vehicle of course).

Last year I picked up a 3500lb sliding jack. The only "mod" I've done to it is that I produced a pair of axle stands for it, as these are notably safer for lifting a round tube axle than the flat pads.

 

[racecougar]

As far as pneumatic or manual goes, the manual jack easily lifts a vehicle. Going to pneumatic wasn't worth the additional cost to me.

 

[grabeb]

As far as pneumatic or manual goes, the manual jack easily lifts a vehicle. Going to pneumatic wasn't worth the additional cost to me.

Thanks! That does help a lot. Those links show unavailable, but I'll watch them and see and/or go research other variants. I've purchased those strip lights in the past off Ebay, I might even have a set laying around somewhere. I do like the brackets though. I do worry about them interfering with the roller on the jack tray and the drip tray slides. I'll go back and look closer at your mounting. A video I watched, they used a piano hinge to enable different tilt options. I like that idea as well, but I generally haven't found piano hinges to be tight enough to stay put in a certain position, maybe a few different sizes of wedges to place under it.

Another thing I'm looking into is a laminated sheet with different torque specs for my vehicles, so I don't always have to go look them up.

 

[grabeb]

Oh....and I love your mod for the differential. I don't have a CNC, but wonder if I can build a set once I break down and order my jack!

 

[racecougar]

Thanks! That does help a lot. Those links show unavailable, but I'll watch them and see and/or go research other variants. I've purchased those strip lights in the past off Ebay, I might even have a set laying around somewhere. I do like the brackets though. I do worry about them interfering with the roller on the jack tray and the drip tray slides. I'll go back and look closer at your mounting. A video I watched, they used a piano hinge to enable different tilt options. I like that idea as well, but I generally haven't found piano hinges to be tight enough to stay put in a certain position, maybe a few different sizes of wedges to place under it.

Another thing I'm looking into is a laminated sheet with different torque specs for my vehicles, so I don't always have to go look them up.

Where I've installed the lights, there is no interference at all with the jack tray, the drip pans, or the sliding jack I chose to purchase. If you're going to get a bridge jack, I'd pick the unit you're going to buy before you install your lights.

I have a sheet detailing the oil change info for each vehicle in the fleet (drain plug socket size, oil filter p/n, oil capacity) stuck to one of my posts with a magnet. Same concept.

I also whipped up this simple platform to make oil changes easy.




As far as the axle stands go, I just used the manual lathe pictured. No need for a CNC.

 

[Maxcustody]

Great information. I have the same lift which will be installed soon.

 

[grabeb]

Where I've installed the lights, there is no interference at all with the jack tray, the drip pans, or the sliding jack I chose to purchase. If you're going to get a bridge jack, I'd pick the unit you're going to buy before you install your lights.

I have a sheet detailing the oil change info for each vehicle in the fleet (drain plug socket size, oil filter p/n, oil capacity) stuck to one of my posts with a magnet. Same concept.

I also whipped up this simple platform to make oil changes easy.




As far as the axle stands go, I just used the manual lathe pictured. No need for a CNC.

Lathe...cnc.... same difference since I don't have either!! Not sure actually why I said cnc.

I like the oil change suggestion as well. Anything to speed everything up.

I like your platform, but so far my other trays have worked ok.

 

[Judd55]

Nice set up, I have the same lift and would like to do the lighting as well, which track did you use of the page you linked, the flat or the V shaped ? I have the same manual jack and it lifts the front end of my 55 GMC truck no problem but, I also have a 3 bag Pneumatic jack that I use in the Jack tray on the front, just for a little extra assurance. I also use it on my wife's KIA when changing Summers and Winter wheels. I place it on the ramp under the jacking points on these unibody type vehicles with rubber jack pad. Works excellent.

6600lbs Triple Bag Air Jack 3 Ton Air Jack Pneumatic Air Bag Jack Max 15.75" : Amazon.ca: Automotive

6600lbs Triple Bag Air Jack 3 Ton Air Jack Pneumatic Air Bag Jack Max 15.75" : Amazon.ca: Automotive

www.amazon.ca

2-Pack of Rubber Jack Pads (Slotted Pucks) - Universal, Standard-Size Adapter - Frame Rail Protector Puck / Pad Keeps Pinch Weld, Paint and Metal Safe - by Mission Automotive : Amazon.ca: Automotive

2-Pack of Rubber Jack Pads (Slotted Pucks) - Universal, Standard-Size Adapter - Frame Rail Protector Puck / Pad Keeps Pinch Weld, Paint and Metal Safe - by Mission Automotive : Amazon.ca: Automotive

www.amazon.ca

 

[Mike65]

Thanks for sharing the info & ideas, this is the same lift I want for my new garage.

 

[ycgoat]

So how hard is it to add and remove those jack plates?

 

[Judd55]

So how hard is it to add and remove those jack plates?

The tapered end slots into a hole in the extendable arms, simply pull them out and replace with a shorter or longer extensions.

 

[racecougar]

Nice set up, I have the same lift and would like to do the lighting as well, which track did you use of the page you linked, the flat or the V shaped ?

The LED track is the V-shaped one in my link above. It points the LED's at a 45-degree angle rather than straight up. I've been very happy with this arrangement.

So how hard is it to add and remove those jack plates?

They just slip into place in the holes bored through the extendable arms.

 

[Judd55]

The LED track is the V-shaped one in my link above. It points the LED's at a 45-degree angle rather than straight up. I've been very happy with this arrangement.


They just slip into place in the holes bored through the extendable arms.

Excellent, one other thing did you find the following parts were necessary as they are unavailable at this point, Thx. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07D32S29P/?tag=atomicindus04-20

 

[grabeb]

Excellent, one other thing did you find the following parts were necessary as they are unavailable at this point, Thx. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07D32S29P/?tag=atomicindus04-20

I'll await op response, but a similar breaker shows up with the other part if you look at suggested parts. At least did for me.

 

[grabeb]

Excellent, one other thing did you find the following parts were necessary as they are unavailable at this point, Thx. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07D32S29P/?tag=atomicindus04-20

Muzata 20PACK V-Shape LED Channel Extension Connectors for V1SW Aluminum LED Channel, The Channels Can Be Connected Seamless for Longer Lighting Project LCB2,Series LA2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D34341Z/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Judd55]

Muzata 20PACK V-Shape LED Channel Extension Connectors for V1SW Aluminum LED Channel, The Channels Can Be Connected Seamless for Longer Lighting Project LCB2,Series LA2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D34341Z/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Ah yes, didn't see them, Thx

 

[racecougar]

Yep, you'll want to have those.

 

[jaybrown48]

I really love the lighting idea. Thanks for sharing.

 

[racecougar]

Thanks. It is a simple mod that makes such a big difference when working on cars on the lift. I love being able to flick a switch and light up the underside without needing a trouble light or headlamp.

 

[dagofast]

Congrats on your new lift!

I have the slightly older version of the same lift, the SS-1000XLT. I used these LED's, they are magnetic and fit in the trough next to the lip that the rolling jack/jack tray/drip trays ride on. Life everything, they were much cheaper then. (if the link gets old and goes dead, just search for seller ledliftlighting on eBay. Nice guy, quality product) They can also be stuck on the underside of the ramps facing down, but it is a pain to swap them around even if you have the time. If not, you could buy 2 kits. I'm frugal so I bought a couple of 4' LED shop lights from Costco and mounted them under the offside ramp. I get plenty of light underneath now.

Rolling jacks are the cats ***. I bought one with my lift (the air operated one) and then a few years later, when I decided I should have bought two, the price had doubled to over $1400 smackers. I found a sale on a Challenger 3500# hand operated rolling jack for a little over $600 with free shipping and bought it. After using both air and the manual, I've found I much prefer the manual jack. The Challenger jack did take one small mod to make it work on the Advantage but it was easy. I posted a thread on here with pics if you do a search.

 

[jaybrown48]

Thanks for ideas. And links

 

[grabeb]

Congrats on your new lift!

I have the slightly older version of the same lift, the SS-1000XLT. I used these LED's, they are magnetic and fit in the trough next to the lip that the rolling jack/jack tray/drip trays ride on. Life everything, they were much cheaper then. (if the link gets old and goes dead, just search for seller ledliftlighting on eBay. Nice guy, quality product) They can also be stuck on the underside of the ramps facing down, but it is a pain to swap them around even if you have the time. If not, you could buy 2 kits. I'm frugal so I bought a couple of 4' LED shop lights from Costco and mounted them under the offside ramp. I get plenty of light underneath now.

Rolling jacks are the cats ***. I bought one with my lift (the air operated one) and then a few years later, when I decided I should have bought two, the price had doubled to over $1400 smackers. I found a sale on a Challenger 3500# hand operated rolling jack for a little over $600 with free shipping and bought it. After using both air and the manual, I've found I much prefer the manual jack. The Challenger jack did take one small mod to make it work on the Advantage but it was easy. I posted a thread on here with pics if you do a search.

Can I ask why you prefer the manual? I'm wanting to pull trigger and order the rolling jack and still on fence between the two. How many pumps does it take to full extension? Salesman said about 70, but I find that hard to believe.

 

[racecougar]

Can I ask why you prefer the manual? I'm wanting to pull trigger and order the rolling jack and still on fence between the two. How many pumps does it take to full extension? Salesman said about 70, but I find that hard to believe.

That salesman is trying to upsell you. If I had to guess, it takes ~15-20 pumps to reach full height, but it has been awhile.

 

[grabeb]

That is my thought! I just pulled the trigger on the manual. I called my actual salesman and he said he has the manual, explained why which also likely fits my my need more. He also said it's about 65pumps to full height, but I doubt I need to go full height ever. Guess I'll find out. Pick it up tomorrow!

 

[dagofast]

Can I ask why you prefer the manual? I'm wanting to pull trigger and order the rolling jack and still on fence between the two. How many pumps does it take to full extension? Salesman said about 70, but I find that hard to believe.

First, I like the cheaper price.

Second, the manual pump offers more "feel" and control when using it. By control, I mean you can pump it very slowly and even stop mid-stroke while getting the pucks/jack in to position. By feel, I mean you can easily tell from the feedback of the handle when you go from slack to first engage lifting and then feel a linear increase as you begin to take full weight. No way it takes 70 pumps to get to full height. Maybe 20-25 and the effort isn't herculean.

With my air driven unit, it's pretty much like an on/off switch with no real feedback other than sound. Meaning it will slow down a bit when under a full load. The one other annoying thing it does is occasionally when positioning the puck/jack I'll "dab" the pedal to raise it a bit more and get an oily blast of air in the face if I'm not careful where my face is when on that side of the jack.

 

[grabeb]

First, I like the cheaper price.

Second, the manual pump offers more "feel" and control when using it. By control, I mean you can pump it very slowly and even stop mid-stroke while getting the pucks/jack in to position. By feel, I mean you can easily tell from the feedback of the handle when you go from slack to first engage lifting and then feel a linear increase as you begin to take full weight. No way it takes 70 pumps to get to full height. Maybe 20-25 and the effort isn't herculean.

With my air driven unit, it's pretty much like an on/off switch with no real feedback other than sound. Meaning it will slow down a bit when under a full load. The one other annoying thing it does is occasionally when positioning the puck/jack I'll "dab" the pedal to raise it a bit more and get an oily blast of air in the face if I'm not careful where my face is when on that side of the jack.

Thanks. I'm excited to go get tomorrow and possibly see how it works this weekend.

 

[Andy Kraus]

I have the same lift - DX-9000XLT. I ended up with just purchasing their (Advantage) LED Lighting kit ( pawned it off on somebody else to get for me as a Christmas present) and I also went with the manual bridge jack and I love it. I like being able to "feel" the control I have with the manual one. My only gripe with it is that I need taller adapters to lift my truck wheels off the ramps. Stacking both the 5" and I think it's 2.5" adapters together still barely gets the tires off the ramp, but then I can't put the jack on a lock and release the pressure. Trying to find some machine shop nearby to make me some taller ones but I'm striking out.

 

[grabeb]

I have the same lift - DX-9000XLT. I ended up with just purchasing their (Advantage) LED Lighting kit ( pawned it off on somebody else to get for me as a Christmas present) and I also went with the manual bridge jack and I love it. I like being able to "feel" the control I have with the manual one. My only gripe with it is that I need taller adapters to lift my truck wheels off the ramps. Stacking both the 5" and I think it's 2.5" adapters together still barely gets the tires off the ramp, but then I can't put the jack on a lock and release the pressure. Trying to find some machine shop nearby to make me some taller ones but I'm striking out.

Just installed mine today. Wasn't too bad once I got it off the trailer. I am hoping it'll pick my vehicles off the ramps as well. My 2012 Yukon AWD goes on the lift tomorrow, I hope, to replace rear air ride pump. I'll find out if it'll lift her in the air when I do that. Doesn't need to be in air for the repair, unless it's easier with rear wheel off.

 

[grabeb]

As far as jacking up a vehicle goes, I used the jack tray with both a bottle jack and a large scissor jack for awhile. Neither felt particularly safe (I did use jackstands when not actively raising/lowering the vehicle of course).

Last year I picked up a 3500lb sliding jack. The only "mod" I've done to it is that I produced a pair of axle stands for it, as these are notably safer for lifting a round tube axle than the flat pads.

Would you be interested in making another set of these? If not I might have to look around for machine shops. If so shoot me a price!

 

[racecougar]

Would you be interested in making another set of these? If not I might have to look around for machine shops. If so shoot me a price!

I think the time involved would price them way above what a machine shop would charge, as they'll have a larger lathe that can remove material at a faster rate.

 

[grabeb]

I think the time involved would price them way above what a machine shop would charge, as they'll have a larger lathe that can remove material at a faster rate.

I understand! Thanks for the reply....might be a good business opportunity for someone with the setup or connections!

 

[Blandshop]

I have an Advantage 4 post lift. I also purchased the manual scissors lift which works fine. I am in the process of installing LED lighting to rolling jack channels. I have purchased aluminum 45 degree corner channels. Here are the sources and products I am using.

N-Series (Narrow) Flexible LED Strip Light - Ultra Bright (36 LEDs/foot)

N-Series (Narrow) Flexible LED Strip Light - Ultra Bright (36 LEDs/foot) aspectLED's Flexible LED strip lights are a perfect solution for a wide variety of architectural and accent lighting applications including; cove lighting, under-cabinet lighting,

www.aspectled.com

Corner LED Channel - 964 (4ft/8ft)

The 964 Series is a slimline Corner LED Aluminum Channel compatible with LED Strips up-to 0.44” (11mm) wide. It’s designed for corner installations with 45 degree lighting needs. This profile is the perfect fit for under-cabinet, shelves, library, kitchen cabinets, closet lighting applications...

ledprofiles.com

 

[PoorOwner]

I would recommend going with the bridge jack if possible (air or manual) your choice based on budget or preference.
Having to drag the air hose to the jack is a bit of hassle. It's also very loud.

The bridge jack is bulky enough that may get in the way of some projects, sometimes it is easier to use the bridge jack to lift the vehicle up and then place jackstands on the runway if the vehicle is wide enough and the jackstands doesn't fall inwards. That means smaller jackstands that can support the vehicle without falling in between the runways.
Or you could do this with a floor jack first, if the front beam is not getting in the way.

Be careful of the bag jacks. I would only use them on the pinch rail / frame rail, if you are not careful they can lean and fall over. Advantage seems to sell one that is 2 bags IMO that is safer than a 3 bag.

Just 1 bridge jack should be enough.

 

[grabeb]

I've given this some time, so I could use the lift and start to get a feel for how I want to proceed with mods. I've used the manual bridge jack several times and I will say it has been AWESOME!

I still need to figure out the lighting though. I have mounted a strip outlet under the hydraulic side, so I'm at least that far.

Under ramp lights.....I'm still torn between the linkable tube lights and using 3m double sided tape or magnets to hold them up OR going with the LED strip lights. I found some that were dimmable, which actually might be nice? I'd like them on a smart plug so I can easily turn them on/off without having to walk around a car to get to them. I've noticed when a car is up on the lift in storage mode, my ceiling lights are somewhat blocked out on that side.

Top of ramp lights....still trying to figure this out. The bridge jack in on rollers that roll on the groove that racecougar attached his to. Due to that, I'm not sure mounting them to that lip is the best placement. I only have about 1/4-3/8" from roller edge to bottom. I'm thinking inside the lip might work out, but then the drip trays will cover the lights in that area...hmmm. I don't think anything really rests on the bottom of that channel on the advantage, but as soon as I go this route, something will!

Open to other ideas. I wonder if I could attach to magnet tape, so somewhat moveable.

 

[pbon]

The Milwaukee under lift light looks interesting to me. I usually use some kind of portable light or tower light. I can’t put strip lights down the inside of the runners because I actually use the lift to work on cars. The bridge jacks would crush those lights. Plus debris gets in the groove, tools and parts roll into them and the bridge Jack obscures the channel even if you could put lights low enough and the Jack rolled on top of the edge.

 

[racecougar]

The Milwaukee under lift light looks interesting to me. I usually use some kind of portable light or tower light. I can’t put strip lights down the inside of the runners because I actually use the lift to work on cars. The bridge jacks would crush those lights. Plus debris gets in the groove, tools and parts roll into them and the bridge Jack obscures the channel even if you could put lights low enough and the Jack rolled on top of the edge.

<---Actually uses the lift to work on cars, too. Thanks though.

 

[racecougar]

Grabeb, why not post a photo that shows the profile of your ramps and how your bridge jack is supported on the ramps? I expect a visual would help garner worthwhile suggestions here.

 

[jaw22w]

I already posted this on another forum, but I thought I would share this with you guys.
I agonized over whether to buy a 4 post or 2 post lift because of the advantages and disadvantages of each type. I ended up buying a 4 post.
Well the first thing I needed to do was get the wheels off while on the lift. I came up with this:


The lift came with a cross beam for jacking, but that was unhandy as hell. I hole sawed (2) 1.5" holes in the beam and welded in short pieces of 1.5" x .095 wall tubing over the holes. I used 1.25" all thread with heavy nuts and welded short pieces of 2" x 2" angle iron on top. The all thread is long enough that when the angle is against the axle it is hanging below the ramps by about three inches.
You drive the car on the ramps and raise it up to place the beam and stands under the axles. Lower the lift and the stands catch the car allowing the ramps to drop out from under the car. Run the nuts down and raise the lift back up. Voila! The wheels are off the ramp.
I liked this trick so well I made another beam from 6" channel to place under the rear axle so I could get all the wheels off at the same time. Then to further expand the idea, I made 2 more beams at different centers to catch the frame for suspension work.
Just thought this might be worth sharing for any of you guys that have 4 post lifts. It makes the 4 poster a lot more useful. (Please ignore the plumb bobs. I was doing an alignment.)