40x40? Post or Stick?

[Cam121]

Need help I am going to build a 40x40 14 workshop for my cars.
I don't know if I should go with post construction or have it stick built I have a tight budget any input you guys have would be great!
If any one has build any 40x40's or close and didn't mind sharing cost break downs that would be very helpful...

I will be replacing my leaning barn of death!

 

[MagKarl]

How tall? I favor poles for taller buildings.

You can get free quotes online for pole barn packages from many vendors. Lumber yards will give you quotes on stick frame designs if you give them plans to bid from.

 

[Cam121]

I would like go with 14ft tall walls.

 

[Highbeam]

My 30x60x14 pole barn was cheap to build. Posts on 12 foot centers so only 12 posts, only 10 trusses, a bunch of 2x6 lumber for girts and purlins, then sheet metal siding and a composition roof.

I don't regret going pole at all. You can finish a pole barn out to look just like a stick built. The only worry I have in the back of my mind is that the poles may rot away but that seems to be a wive's tale or limited to areas with animals, mud, and poor surface water control.

 

[ctgoodman]

My 30x60x14 pole barn was cheap to build. Posts on 12 foot centers so only 12 posts, only 10 trusses, a bunch of 2x6 lumber for girts and purlins, then sheet metal siding and a composition roof.

I don't regret going pole at all. You can finish a pole barn out to look just like a stick built. The only worry I have in the back of my mind is that the poles may rot away but that seems to be a wive's tale or limited to areas with animals, mud, and poor surface water control.

I too was thinking pole for my build. I however live in a prime termite area and The soil on the property where I would need to build is very dense clay. When we where using the tractor and auger to look for dirt to put the septic in it would hit several places and just sit and spin after it went through the first few inches of soil. So I do not drain well here. I'm afraid to put wood int he ground where I feel it will be constantly waterlogged. I'm looking at a slab and steel building or a stemwall and sort of hybrid polebarn build. Depending on time and labor i may be sticking it if I can round up enough volunteers.

 

[Cam121]

ctgoodman...Check out this video..Bet its costly

 

[ctgoodman]

Cam121, I've looked at this option. I should add the other issue with the pole building is that skirt board. It still has soil to ground contact as well as sun exposure. I would figure this would fail before the posts. I can't imagine what it would be like to replace a skirt board or a post. Neither seem easy.

 

[Jordanp252]

Look at www.diypolebarns.com and get an idea on cost. I ordered a kit. Be here in 3 weeks.

 

[Voi]

Here is a thread about a hybrid building approach.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=196027

I think in another GJ thread about this method somebody mentioned it should be easier to replace poles and/or skirt boards. I can't recall.

It may have been this thread.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=253431&showall=1

 

[Freefall_Doug]

Couldn't you build a pole barn on a concrete foundation with anchors for the poles to minimize water/soil/insect issues with the poles?

 

[jwith68]

Couldn't you build a pole barn on a concrete foundation with anchors for the poles to minimize water/soil/insect issues with the poles?

The major advantage of post frame is eliminating the cost of a foundation. Once you have a foundation, It's probably just as economical to stick build from there.

A good compromise might be Perma-Columns. I haven't used them, but I may in the not-too-distant future.

http://www.permacolumn.com/

 

[Freefall_Doug]

I read this recently, related to decks, but it sounds like it could be relevant here as well.

http://www.deckmagazine.com/foundation/helical-pile-deck-foundations.aspx

 

[rieferman]

We should sticky the many posts we've made about how to easily (and inexpensively) take a pole barn from an ag. shed to a permanent structure.

Short and sweet:
- protect the posts (either perma-columns [which will add about $200 per post], or less expensiveily with post sleeves)
- protect the skirt board (composite wraps... sold by same companies as post sleeves)
- To finish interior walls: horizontal studs face fastened to inside of posts at 24" OC, R-19 kraft faced batts will pressure fit between interior and exterior horizontal studs, run electric/plumbing etc. and finish interior walls same as in any build.
- To finish ceiling: Specify trusses intended to carry weight of ceiling finishing. Furring strips (I prefer 2x4's) to bottom cord. Insulate and finish as with any type of build.
- To finish exterior: Steel will be cheapest (doesn't require sheathing followed by siding) and lasts a long long long time. But, you can add sheathing and wrap and siding with whatever other material you want, same as any other build. If you go with steel roof, snow jax are worth considering to prevent snow slides. I always recommend gutters.

If cost is a driver, a pole barn built on the agricultural shed side of the spectrum is by far the least expensive option in almost all situations. As you approach a highly appointed product with high end finishes, the cost advantage vs. other building methods decreases (but should still be about 10% cheaper due to speed of construction style).

Built at the high end, post frame buildings (aka pole barn) are extremely strong, permanent, energy efficient, and flexible style of construction. Built at the low end, they'll still usually give you 20+ years of service.