I was thinking about that window up there and the other I have and I think I may use them to break up a portion of the space by painting/hanging them from the ceiling on cables. Better than just ending up in a landfill perhaps... More on that soon.
Started in on the Carriage Doors late last week before the rain started. The sides are T shaped with a ripped groove for the plywood. They will be insulated with 2" yellow foam. Here's a quick shot of the parts after they were laminated up, ripped and finished:
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Pieces Parts by BLACK CAP Studio, on Flickr
The grooves made sliding the parts onto the sheets of plywood a snap. Dry fit went well so I glued things up nicely and got to work. I simply propped them up on a pair of saw horses and used ratchet straps to hold things together while I drove in large stainless screws (3.5"). Sorry I did not take any shots of that stage.
Next up was starting on the details. I wanted a slight arc on the top. Here's a quick shot of the matched tops. I used my japanese rip saw to make the cuts and then tuned things up with a spokeshave and sanding block:
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Twins by BLACK CAP Studio, on Flickr
Where the strap hinges will be placed, I ran 1" x 2" pieces so they have something to be mounted to. I'll take a shot of the backsides in the future. So screwed / glued them on from the front, but then screwed and glued the details on from the backside so the screw heads are hidden. Here's a quick shot of the first one completed:
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One Down... by BLACK CAP Studio, on Flickr
Once the first one was done, I had that system down pat so I just marched through everything. As I was making the first one, I cut all the other parts for the second door at the same time to make things go together much faster for the second one. Running out of light for today but luckily finished before the sun goes down. It's raining like crazy here right now-so the natural light isn't as good as it normally is:
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Carriage Doors Finished! by BLACK CAP Studio, on Flickr
Pretty tickled by how they turned out. I had the paint store match a blue paint in stain. It will be pretty much identical in color to the door in the upper right hand corner of the above shot. That door also is coming along nicely and was free. I was headed out last week for a ride after work and spotted it next to a dumpster. A quick knock on the door and a short conversation and I had it in my trunk. Free is good! More on the way soon.
And in another I'd like to 'wrastle' that darn Moose...
In the real world "level," "plumb, and "even" are theoretical concepts.
Great work on the shop and bikes. I checked out your website and blog. I always wondered how many guys on this journal frequent mtbr.com.
The black bike can be run as an ss by flipping / switching the dropouts (pics are from an earlier prototype):
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44 f1 Drops - Geared mode by BLACK CAP Studio, on Flickr
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44 f1 Drops - Single speed mode by BLACK CAP Studio, on Flickr
The red bike uses a bushnell EBB:
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44 Snake Driver - EBB by BLACK CAP Studio, on Flickr
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44 Snakedriver - Paint #3 by BLACK CAP Studio, on Flickr
The sky is the limit with a custom build - if the customer wants sliders or an EBB I can build to their requests. I just personally don't like sliders. I do however like how the Bushnell version of an EBB works with the expansion bolt vs the set screw types.
@Muibubbles (nice handle btw!) To bend the tubes, I'm using a JD2 Model No. 32 bender. More info here. It is modified though-the followers on these work fine for thicker walled tubing but the majority of the tubes I am welding/bending are .035" wall thickness and thinner. The key to bending thin walled tubes is to have the tube at the point of tangency fully supported. The achilles heel of these benders is that at this point, the follower does not have support. So I machined a few round followers and that really fixed the bender and allows it to bend really well. The other part that I modified is how the tube is held. Stock, you need to basically waste 3" of tube and there is no reference point that is consistently fixed. So I made a clamp that holds the tube differently and closer to where the tube begins to bend.

Just a thought. It might be more cost/weight effective to keep a regular bottom bracket, but make a horizontal sliding rear drop-out (Kona did that in the Sutra).
Hey, Love your built (Bike and Shop)!!!!![]()