JimVonBaden
Well-known member
I agree, beautiful work, very clean. A lot of practice and skill went into your work.
Jim
44 Bikes Frame Shop
- Thread starter fortyfour
- Start date
I agree, beautiful work, very clean. A lot of practice and skill went into your work.
Jim
Jim Johnstone
Well-known member
Looks like $2000 for a frame. I have worked in the bike industry for 10 years, and I can't see how a hand made frame like this could be sold as a fully equipped bike for $2000.
Big A
Active member
Designer, engineer, craftsman... powerful combination. This build thread is outstanding. Seriously nice work all around.
horizontallyopposed
Well-known member
I had forgotten that I downloaded your tactical manual until I was doing my "end of the week desktop cleanup" on my computer and just opened it up. Wow. Great presentation, and a great shot of the shop in the snow. Well done and my hopes for future success for you!
Cheers,
Keith
Cheers,
Keith
Thanks all for the kind words - catching up from holiday travel and getting things in order for the next few builds and some planned updates/equipment moving.
Yes - all frames start at $2000. There is a pricing list of options that can be found here for anyone curious.
I'll most likely have some updates shortly when things get rolling again. Will be insulating the ceiling and putting some effort into a heating solution which will most likely be a propane wall unit (Rinnai). Till then:
Yes - all frames start at $2000. There is a pricing list of options that can be found here for anyone curious.
I'll most likely have some updates shortly when things get rolling again. Will be insulating the ceiling and putting some effort into a heating solution which will most likely be a propane wall unit (Rinnai). Till then:
E.rodz
Well-known member
been following you thread from the beginning my hat is off to you you inspire me my son and I have built a custom chopper bike and now he wants to build another I may be in need of your brain for sourcing some components.keep up the great work !
machine_punk
Well-known member
I was hoping you would have an update soon. I was just thinking about your thread the other day. The better pictures in your thread (non-fuzzy-non-camera phone pics) inspired me to find an older digital SLR camera online (A Canon, with about 6 megapixels...more than enough for online pics) and a lens. I ended up with a 50mm lens (which acts more like an 80mm lens on a digital camera), but it does not zoom and does not get very wide shots.
Do you mind sharing which lens you use for most of your photography for this thread? I've just about decided I'm going to have to sink about $600-800 into a decent lens, and there are some decent lenses out there for that kind of money, but I don't want to be buying more than one. What range of zoom do you have (I am thinking about something like a 28mm - 128mm zoom, to give me a overview of a large piece of the workshop, and the ability to zoom and crop the pic as I take the picture of details).
Kev
Do you mind sharing which lens you use for most of your photography for this thread? I've just about decided I'm going to have to sink about $600-800 into a decent lens, and there are some decent lenses out there for that kind of money, but I don't want to be buying more than one. What range of zoom do you have (I am thinking about something like a 28mm - 128mm zoom, to give me a overview of a large piece of the workshop, and the ability to zoom and crop the pic as I take the picture of details).
Kev
@Machine_punk aka Kev: I'm shooting with a Nikon D60 which is a smaller body Digital SLR camera. The lens is a Nikon Nikkor 18-70mm which gives me a pretty good depth of field, fairly wide angle and I can still get up pretty close. I am very happy and it's a pretty good all around lens. I purchased it used through B&H in Boston. (Link here) Both the camera and lens were purchased used actually - you can get some really nice equipment at good discounts through used camera equipment retailers. It's good to go with one that is an establishment (B&H are a trusted retailer in my book). My sister-in-law shares a similar camera body as mine (I think the newer D3000?) and the stock lens it came with takes some amazing shots. I'll see if I can find out what her range is too.
All the images that I have posted for this thread are with this camera and lens combo. I have used and played with a few filters but I will do some post treatment with levels (RGB) through photoshop. Most of the time is just to punch up some of the darkest darks and lightest lights and to deal with the green that is cast from my CFL's in my overhead lighting. Shooting in florescent but having all that natural light coming through the windows can make it tough to get good shots during the day sometimes. Thus the help of photoshop. I also experiment with some layering effects, custom filters and such that I have built over time to get a certain "look" I'm after. I've heavily modified the colors in the images that are present in the 44 Tactical Field Manual I posted earlier.
All the images that I have posted for this thread are with this camera and lens combo. I have used and played with a few filters but I will do some post treatment with levels (RGB) through photoshop. Most of the time is just to punch up some of the darkest darks and lightest lights and to deal with the green that is cast from my CFL's in my overhead lighting. Shooting in florescent but having all that natural light coming through the windows can make it tough to get good shots during the day sometimes. Thus the help of photoshop. I also experiment with some layering effects, custom filters and such that I have built over time to get a certain "look" I'm after. I've heavily modified the colors in the images that are present in the 44 Tactical Field Manual I posted earlier.
A d3000's kit lens should be an 18-55 f 3.5, iirc. They're very capable lenses and can be had secondhand at incredibly good prices. I have one and find that it typically shoots sharper photos and autofocuses MUCH faster than my 18-200mm.
But I digress, your shop and work both an inspiration to me, and I look forward to updates! Keep up the good work!
But I digress, your shop and work both an inspiration to me, and I look forward to updates! Keep up the good work!
LeadFootDriver
Member
44:
This whole thread is a must read. Great looking robot welds! I hope to get there one day after I refine my MIG skills. Reading through GJ I see so many nice shops that look like a million dollars and have more machinery then one really needs, but they are missing the raw skill, soulful work, and engenuity of a true crafsman. Crafstman first, fancy stuff later. That's what counts anyways when someone is using, looking at, or riding somethin you have built.
More Pics!
- Rod
This whole thread is a must read. Great looking robot welds! I hope to get there one day after I refine my MIG skills. Reading through GJ I see so many nice shops that look like a million dollars and have more machinery then one really needs, but they are missing the raw skill, soulful work, and engenuity of a true crafsman. Crafstman first, fancy stuff later. That's what counts anyways when someone is using, looking at, or riding somethin you have built.
More Pics!
- Rod
@LeadFootDriver: Thanks for the kind words. When I was first conceptualizing the shop build, I knew I wanted a bit more cozy/studio feel to it. Not necessarily a "man cave" if you will. Not that there is anything wrong with a man cave. But I definitely wanted lots of light, elbow room and studio feel. I think it's getting there and will take more shape as more 'stuff' gets on the walls and I build some shelves, storage etc. When you walk in it definitely says workshop.
My tip to anyone who is looking to do TIG: If that is what you want to do, go for it. Start with TIG. Learn the basics, understand the set up, concentrate on heat control, bead spacing, cleanliness, angle of tungsten to material, etc. It takes a sh!t ton of practice and persistence. Mig and Arc have their place and purpose and associated techniques. TIG requires a lot of eye/hand coordination, practice and patience in the sort that the realization of persistence and repetition of doing, you will slowly start to see gains in your technique and abilities. Some it comes naturally, others it may take more time. I can say that any of the mig or arc I have done in the past did not translate really to any skills I have with Tig. I laid my first bead via a Tig welder in about 1996. That's 16 years of practice. Every time I pick up the torch, I'm practicing and learning. Go for it!
My tip to anyone who is looking to do TIG: If that is what you want to do, go for it. Start with TIG. Learn the basics, understand the set up, concentrate on heat control, bead spacing, cleanliness, angle of tungsten to material, etc. It takes a sh!t ton of practice and persistence. Mig and Arc have their place and purpose and associated techniques. TIG requires a lot of eye/hand coordination, practice and patience in the sort that the realization of persistence and repetition of doing, you will slowly start to see gains in your technique and abilities. Some it comes naturally, others it may take more time. I can say that any of the mig or arc I have done in the past did not translate really to any skills I have with Tig. I laid my first bead via a Tig welder in about 1996. That's 16 years of practice. Every time I pick up the torch, I'm practicing and learning. Go for it!
Weekend Bike Prep.
29er headed to MA in flat black (Will get gloss decals) :
Fixed gear staying in NH :
Badges for both builds :
So you want to be a Framebuilder? Then you need the right tools for the finishing work. 44 HQ's got the goods...
Yesterday (Friday) was a good day in the shop. Got a lot done on this build which is headed across the pond to Switzerland of all places. Weldfest first thing Monday :
29er headed to MA in flat black (Will get gloss decals) :
Fixed gear staying in NH :
Badges for both builds :
So you want to be a Framebuilder? Then you need the right tools for the finishing work. 44 HQ's got the goods...
Yesterday (Friday) was a good day in the shop. Got a lot done on this build which is headed across the pond to Switzerland of all places. Weldfest first thing Monday :
Garnetmica
New member
- Joined
- Jun 24, 2012
- Messages
- 3
Your work is stunning. Beautiful welds, amazing frames.
Kris, it's been said time and time again but is still worth saying: great job! I'm curious what design software you are using? It may have been mentioned before and it seems like it was Solidworks. My son has taken an interest but all I have is Inventor 9 and quite frankly, it's a major PIA in my opinion. And trying to explain some of the quirky things to a 12 year old can be frustrating (no fault to my son). Thought of picking up a seat of Solidworks for him. Great job.
I primarily use Solidworks for parts and 3d/design work, sub assemblies for clearances etc. I also primarily use Adobe Illustrator of all things for 2d sketches. It's basically a highfalutin version of a 2d drafting software. With a 3rd party plugin by Hot Door, you add the ability to add dimensions to drawings and such. There's more plugins available through Adobe's site with links here. The cursor knows exactly where it is in a 2d plane at all times - I did not know how powerful of a program it can become with this upgrade. That's what we used when I worked at Reebok and Converse to build all of our shoe specs/drawings.
If someone is just starting out and doesn't want to drop the coin on a Solidworks seat, I'd recommend Adobe Illustrator for simplicity and quickness (not to mention it then doubles as a software to design logos and such - even graphic layouts if you're serious about starting a business). The other one specific to the custom framebuilder market is Bike CAD. I have used Rhino in the past and to me, the big difference between Rhino and Solidworks is you can quickly go into Rhino and just start building shapes. In Solidworks, you kind of need to know what you want to do first as it's a bit more of a program that requires you to have a plan. But biggest bang for the buck if it's bike specific is Bike CAD.
If someone is just starting out and doesn't want to drop the coin on a Solidworks seat, I'd recommend Adobe Illustrator for simplicity and quickness (not to mention it then doubles as a software to design logos and such - even graphic layouts if you're serious about starting a business). The other one specific to the custom framebuilder market is Bike CAD. I have used Rhino in the past and to me, the big difference between Rhino and Solidworks is you can quickly go into Rhino and just start building shapes. In Solidworks, you kind of need to know what you want to do first as it's a bit more of a program that requires you to have a plan. But biggest bang for the buck if it's bike specific is Bike CAD.
machine_punk
Well-known member
For the money, I really like Alibre Design 3D. For $200, you get a pretty good 3D design program, which will generate 2D drawings from your 3D object. You can add more options, if you need them, including sheet metal design and CAM (ability to drive CNC machines). There is a VERY steep learning curve to 3D design, though. Expect to have to work through some exercises to become proficient.
Kev
Kev
In my experience with 3D CAD software, it's learning how the program prefers to build things. Once you wrap your head around that, things start to fall into place. Solidworks is very much like this and agree that the learning curve is indeed steep. But once you get some things, you begin to make much larger strides. If I have not used it in a while, it normally takes me a few minutes to get back into that head space and then I'm fine. It also helps to be well versed in a number of software packages (not just CAD based ones) as it all kind of builds off of one another and makes learning something like Solidworks not all that daunting. Also helps to have someone you know who is really proficient that you can call and just ask the dumb questions. Which I have...
But bikes that are off the screen and on the trail is the icing on the cake. Just a dusting the other day, but the fat bike went out and shredded some snow covered trails. THAT is rad.
A Beast Lurks... by 44 Bikes, on Flickr
But bikes that are off the screen and on the trail is the icing on the cake. Just a dusting the other day, but the fat bike went out and shredded some snow covered trails. THAT is rad.
A Beast Lurks... by 44 Bikes, on Flickr
RaysnCayne
Well-known member
Can you tell me/us how/where you get your badges made? I'd like to do something very similar for a project of mine.
_________________________________________
Never mind. Didn't realize this was a 28 page thread! Thought it was only a few pages deep and the question hadn't been asked yet. Silly me. Anyway, I found my answer back on page 5 or 6. Thanks.
_________________________________________
Never mind. Didn't realize this was a 28 page thread! Thought it was only a few pages deep and the question hadn't been asked yet. Silly me. Anyway, I found my answer back on page 5 or 6. Thanks.
Last edited:
Re: BIG UPDATE - You asked for it!
That is just insane
. The amount of attention to detail is bewildering. I only wish I had half as much patience and talent.
That is just insane
. The amount of attention to detail is bewildering. I only wish I had half as much patience and talent.@RaysnCayne: The badges are made from Stainless steel via the Photo Chemical Etching process. I have an outfit in Seattle, WA make them for me: Aculine.
For my head tube badges, I provide them with the 2 pieces of art: 1st serves as the resist for the art itself and the 2nd is matched / overlaid on top of this which serves to etch through the stainless sheet. I produce a 2 layer art file using Adobe Illustrator, save it as an EPS and send that to Aculine. If you are making multiples, it's as many as you can fit on a sheet.
For my head tube badges, I provide them with the 2 pieces of art: 1st serves as the resist for the art itself and the 2nd is matched / overlaid on top of this which serves to etch through the stainless sheet. I produce a 2 layer art file using Adobe Illustrator, save it as an EPS and send that to Aculine. If you are making multiples, it's as many as you can fit on a sheet.
Hard at Work
Things are busy here at 44 HQ. Finished up this 29er headed to Switzerland - Next up is a Fat Bike headed to Switzerland and then a 650b and 29er (Husband + Wife Combo) which will stay here in New Hampshire.
Took the fat bike out this afternoon for a much needed ride (short climb from the shop doors btw):
They've been doing a lot of logging down the road from my shop. Mine's the red one...
Things are busy here at 44 HQ. Finished up this 29er headed to Switzerland - Next up is a Fat Bike headed to Switzerland and then a 650b and 29er (Husband + Wife Combo) which will stay here in New Hampshire.
Took the fat bike out this afternoon for a much needed ride (short climb from the shop doors btw):
They've been doing a lot of logging down the road from my shop. Mine's the red one...
smsteve
Well-known member
Badass!
Need I say more?
Need I say more?
Baada
Well-known member
The Big Boy is so cool it's not even funny. I bet it peddles like a tank but I'll bet it also goes through just about anything like a tank.
smedly
Well-known member
From another bike industry guy- awesome stuff all around. Bikes, photography, shop and design. This is a fun thread to watch.
Curious, do you use a timer/remote on the photos do yourself, or a helper?
Curious, do you use a timer/remote on the photos do yourself, or a helper?
e-tek
Well-known member
You're one artistic guy - and a great fabricator!
Thanks to all for the kind words.
@Baada: The Big Boy / Fat Bike is indeed a tank. 32lbs as it stands (but this was a proto with straight gauge 4130 throughout - I think I can drop it below 30lbs the next proto for myself). That large 4" tire contact patch is some significant rolling resistance, but after a short while you kind of forget about it. It naturally becomes obvious when you step back onto your mountain bike (29" in this case) and practically have the thing fly out from under you. But what it has in rolling resistance, it easily make up for massive amounts of traction. you forget you're riding rigid actually. Not to mention it requires no trail what-so-ever. Since there is quite a bit of logging in my area, that often obliterates trails... I need to get back in there and clean things up. You can roll over slash with ease on this thing. I should take a video of me just shredding non-existant trail just as an example. But it handles well on trail - I can't wait for more snow though... Riding in the snow, in the woods ON TRAIL is the business.
@smedly: Thanks for the kind words. Regarding the photos, no timer or helper (unless you count the occasional visit from either this guy:
Or when it's warm enough, this one:
I have the timer set on my camera at 20 seconds with a tripod. If I come to a point where I can set up a shot in the process that I feel has good light/composition, I'll set it up mid-work and let the timer go. So a lot of it is luck/chance. I don't necessarily plan them. I enjoy taking pics and documenting the process to share with the client so it's become more of a natural flow of my routine.
@Baada: The Big Boy / Fat Bike is indeed a tank. 32lbs as it stands (but this was a proto with straight gauge 4130 throughout - I think I can drop it below 30lbs the next proto for myself). That large 4" tire contact patch is some significant rolling resistance, but after a short while you kind of forget about it. It naturally becomes obvious when you step back onto your mountain bike (29" in this case) and practically have the thing fly out from under you. But what it has in rolling resistance, it easily make up for massive amounts of traction. you forget you're riding rigid actually. Not to mention it requires no trail what-so-ever. Since there is quite a bit of logging in my area, that often obliterates trails... I need to get back in there and clean things up. You can roll over slash with ease on this thing. I should take a video of me just shredding non-existant trail just as an example. But it handles well on trail - I can't wait for more snow though... Riding in the snow, in the woods ON TRAIL is the business.
@smedly: Thanks for the kind words. Regarding the photos, no timer or helper (unless you count the occasional visit from either this guy:
Or when it's warm enough, this one:
I have the timer set on my camera at 20 seconds with a tripod. If I come to a point where I can set up a shot in the process that I feel has good light/composition, I'll set it up mid-work and let the timer go. So a lot of it is luck/chance. I don't necessarily plan them. I enjoy taking pics and documenting the process to share with the client so it's become more of a natural flow of my routine.
horizontallyopposed
Well-known member
Great pics as always. Now that we are down to -15*C here and dealing with some icy pathways on my ride to work, I get the spring itch for a new bike. Need a 700c commuter with rack, fender and disc mounts in a lisghtly more relaxed package and smoother ride of steel (currently riding a Salsa Las Cruces disc as a commuter). I really wish I could order a custom built frame from you, although it would get *real* expensive after I decided I had to come "help" you build it! LOL.
cheers,
Keith
cheers,
Keith
Svenskerod
New member
- Joined
- May 2, 2011
- Messages
- 2
Beautiful work all around. Any more shots of some of the more road/touring setups like above?
trdtaco
Well-known member
awesome bikes!!!!!! i love the fat tire.. wish i could afford one lol
Now that is a damn nice looking bike!! I bleed off-road. However I do ride the road too and have been wanting to get a "cross" bike. I think I just found it. So clean and simple. I'm guessing you're running Avids on that? I don't know of anyone making hydro brakes for road set-up.
Wow, that just screams simple and clean.
Svenskerod
New member
- Joined
- May 2, 2011
- Messages
- 2
Yup, that'll do. That has long gravel road ride written all over it.
M-technik-3
Well-known member
Sweet holiday card, I think you should submit that to Mtn Bike Action or one of the other Bicycle mags.
Here's two more bike packing setups. Bags are custom too (designed/sewed them up myself) :
Handlebar/Seat Pack Setup by 44 Bikes, on Flickr
44 Big Boy w/ Bags by 44 Bikes, on Flickr
Packin' Fat by 44 Bikes, on Flickr
And here's some more "Huntsman" love. Basically the Huntsman is anything skinny tires (Cross, Road, Fixed, Touring). Traditional tig welded look, faster CX sloping top tube, wishbone stays, 44mm tapered head tubes, 130mm or 135mm rear dropout spacing, multiple bottle mounts, racks. If you can dream of it...
44 Huntsman CX - Front by 44 Bikes, on Flickr
44 Huntsman CX - Rear by 44 Bikes, on Flickr
44 Huntsman CX - Detail by 44 Bikes, on Flickr
44 Huntsman CX - Chainstay Detail by 44 Bikes, on Flickr
44 Huntsman CX by 44 Bikes, on Flickr
The pics above are my own personal cross/gravel grinder. This one sports a radius seat tube, internal cable routing, 44mm head tube, wishbone stays and disc brakes. There are 4 mountain bikes in the build list next and then 2 cross bikes in a row. So in 4 bikes, you'll all be able to see more of these critters! Some exciting stuff happening in the next few weeks here at 44 HQ.
Parting shot/s:
From the Shop Doors by 44 Bikes, on Flickr
Over the hill and through the woods by 44 Bikes, on Flickr
Short Climb by 44 Bikes, on Flickr
Handlebar/Seat Pack Setup by 44 Bikes, on Flickr
44 Big Boy w/ Bags by 44 Bikes, on Flickr
Packin' Fat by 44 Bikes, on Flickr
And here's some more "Huntsman" love. Basically the Huntsman is anything skinny tires (Cross, Road, Fixed, Touring). Traditional tig welded look, faster CX sloping top tube, wishbone stays, 44mm tapered head tubes, 130mm or 135mm rear dropout spacing, multiple bottle mounts, racks. If you can dream of it...
44 Huntsman CX - Front by 44 Bikes, on Flickr
44 Huntsman CX - Rear by 44 Bikes, on Flickr
44 Huntsman CX - Detail by 44 Bikes, on Flickr
44 Huntsman CX - Chainstay Detail by 44 Bikes, on Flickr
44 Huntsman CX by 44 Bikes, on Flickr
The pics above are my own personal cross/gravel grinder. This one sports a radius seat tube, internal cable routing, 44mm head tube, wishbone stays and disc brakes. There are 4 mountain bikes in the build list next and then 2 cross bikes in a row. So in 4 bikes, you'll all be able to see more of these critters! Some exciting stuff happening in the next few weeks here at 44 HQ.
Parting shot/s:
From the Shop Doors by 44 Bikes, on Flickr
Over the hill and through the woods by 44 Bikes, on Flickr
Short Climb by 44 Bikes, on Flickr