I spent last night and this morning re-reading all 44 pages of this thread. I love all of it! The shop, the bikes, the fab work, the photography. Thanks Kris for sharing it all. You are a very talented guy.
I have a question and I apologize if it was mentioned, but in some of the photos where you are welding with the frame in the jig there seems to be some air lines running into those heat sinks that you made for the tubing. Can you explain how that set-up works?
Also, Do you see your self doing any full suspension or aluminum frame builds?
Thanks,
Ed
As Zeke mentions, this is argon back purging. A necessity with Stainless alloys and especially Titanium. Oxygen is a contaminant to these two materials so you need to "purge" the oxygen from both the inside and the outside of the tubes / weld site. The TIG torch provides for the purge on the outside at the weld site, and the lines/purge fittings do the trick for the inside.
Argon is heavier than oxygen. So you need to always have your weld site be the lowest point to ensure a proper purge. There's some other tricks regarding where the purge is being fed from in relation to the weld too.
With steel, back purging isn't a necessity. However, it does heighten the integrity of the backside of the weld tremendously and completely eliminates any sugaring. The insides of my tubes are quite smooth. In places like the bottom bracket, the head tube and seat tube I need to ream these post weld to a certain spec. When purged, the insides are nice and clean and this improves tool life as well as making the job relatively painless. Welding steel by itself, I picked up some habits mostly in how I position the welds and frame that are not necessarily ideal when welding Titanium. So in prep for working with Ti, I've just adapted the same working principles I would need for Titanium with my work in steel. This way, I can "re-teach" myself good habits that sync up well with Titanium as it is a finicky material.
That's one reason I'm back purging my steel frames but the above additional reasons just improve weld integrity, make the job of reaming/facing/chasing easier and improves my tools life span that do those jobs. Just the head tube reamer assembly (Park Tool Part#690 and #788) for a 44mm head tube together are about $350.00. Not a tool you want to drop on the floor or have to go through excessive sugaring if you can help it. They can be resharpened but I want them to be as sharp as possible for as long as possible. That and a little extra piece of mind for the weld integrity too!
Actually, just inside the bottom bracket you can see the inside surface where the chainstays meet the bottom bracket. Nice, clean and shiny: