44 Bikes Frame Shop

[225]

I need a bike. Sending you a email.

225

 

[zmotorsports]

Hey Bill - Definitely get yourself a TIG Finger. Love mine. Also creates a nice platform to perch from in tough to weld spots I've found as well.

RE: Tillman 24D's. I've used these for years actually. The cut and tailoring fit my hands well. I have relatively long fingers and wide palms and sometimes with some gloves the fingers are too short if you move up, or the fingers get too long. These seem to have a good balance where my hand goes in snug but I don't feel like I lose any dexterity. Which is important for what I am doing - the material is thin enough so I don't feel too hindered. They're very soft as well. I also like the short gauntlet too. Long gauntlet's (IMO) kind of get in the way - I like as little as possible for maximum mobility. These gloves are also unlined, again, I feel this really gives me the most dexterity and feel. Hope that helps!

Kris, excellent workmanship. I enjoy following your thread.

I agree with the TIG Finger and I too like the Tillman gloves. I have tried several from vendors but keep coming back to the Tillman. I like both the longer gauntlet style as well as the 24D for certain applications. Generally the 24D.

Also, Jody now makes the TIG Finger XL which works much better for those of us with larger hands/fingers. I have been using the TIG finger for a while now but about three months ago ordered an XL and love it.

Mike.

 

[fortyfour]

Here's one of the heat sync's all slotted. The first 4 are the easy ones to make, the next 4 take some time with additional parts to keep those "tongues" from vibrating as you get deeper into the cut.



I have to admit I'm having a seriously good time in the shop (not that I wasn't before) but it's really, REALLY nice to have that lathe here now. I can pop over there, do all the turning operations. Take that part, into the mill it goes and I can do all the additional operations on the mill. Can't wait to remake some of the other tooling as I'll be using both mill and lathe for those projects.

Here's a shot of it assembled. The Acme threaded rod has not been drilled/tapped to accept the purge fitting yet - this is just a mock up.

 

[zmotorsports]

Here's one of the heat sync's all slotted. The first 4 are the easy ones to make, the next 4 take some time with additional parts to keep those "tongues" from vibrating as you get deeper into the cut.



I have to admit I'm having a seriously good time in the shop (not that I wasn't before) but it's really, REALLY nice to have that lathe here now. I can pop over there, do all the turning operations. Take that part, into the mill it goes and I can do all the additional operations on the mill. Can't wait to remake some of the other tooling as I'll be using both mill and lathe for those projects.

Here's a shot of it assembled. The Acme threaded rod has not been drilled/tapped to accept the purge fitting yet - this is just a mock up.

Looks great. I agree having a lathe and mill both definetely has advantages. My previous machine was a 3-in-1 and to be honest was a PITA to use the mill feature due to having to remove the toolpost and compound slide just to mount work on the table. For a quick job it was more trouble than it was worth and I found myself using the mill less and less for small, quick jobs. It was a fair lathe and a poor mill but now with a full capacity lathe and mill separate it is nice to pop the work out of one machine and simply clamp it in the other.

Again, nice work.

Mike.

 

[fortyfour]

Plugging along over here. Just one shot showing all 3 heat syncs lined up. From left to right: Lower 44mm Head Tube Heat Sync, Upper 44mm Head Tube Heat Sync, 44mm Taper Steerer for unicrown forks Heat Sync.

[

 

[GRN96WS6]

Forgive my ignorance, but what are they used for?

 

[fortyfour]

Forgive my ignorance, but what are they used for?

Sorry about that - these are heat syncs / heat sinks for heat reduction inside thin walled tubing. They will also have purge fittings so I can pipe argon inside the bicycle frame to keep things nice and clean to eliminate sugaring/oxidation on the backside of the welds. Here's an example of one installed and in use in the head tube:

 

[Stoney85]

Build-Threads brought your garage build to my attention a long time ago, but your workmanship and attention to detail keeps bringing me back for updates.

 

[fortyfour]

Build-Threads brought your garage build to my attention a long time ago, but your workmanship and attention to detail keeps bringing me back for updates.

Thanks for the kind words. I try and keep the inspiration coming.

Here's a shot of two of the heat sinks finished up:



And although a small detail, I'll add this one. So for these two, I wanted to eliminate the lower nut/washer so they were flat and the two heat sinks could nest up next to each other. I flipped this one through my head a bunch and finally realized this simple solution of drilling one of the cones so that a 6-32 socket head cap screw would "Key" it into place and prevent it from rotating. I also wanted the ability to take these apart and the holes in the bronze portion serve as an easy access point.

 

[zmotorsports]

Thanks for the kind words. I try and keep the inspiration coming.

Here's a shot of two of the heat sinks finished up:



And although a small detail, I'll add this one. So for these two, I wanted to eliminate the lower nut/washer so they were flat and the two heat sinks could nest up next to each other. I flipped this one through my head a bunch and finally realized this simple solution of drilling one of the cones so that a 6-32 socket head cap screw would "Key" it into place and prevent it from rotating. I also wanted the ability to take these apart and the holes in the bronze portion serve as an easy access point.

Very nice. Good thinking on keying the center to keep from rotating.

I like it.

Mike.

 

[fortyfour]

I was recently interviewed by Rob and Jacob of www.amakertale.com where we discuss my formidable years as a kid growing up in Pennsylvania, Lego's, my path to Industrial Design, building Bicycles and much more.

Here is the direct link via Soundcloud.

Give it a listen after the jump. Interview lasts just about an hour in duration. You can also listen to more interviews via their podcast here. Hope you all enjoy! Thanks to Rob and Jacob for reaching out and coming up to the shop for the interview.

 

[moto367]

I was recently interviewed by Rob and Jacob of www.amakertale.com where we discuss my formidable years as a kid growing up in Pennsylvania, Lego's, my path to Industrial Design, building Bicycles and much more.

Here is the direct link via Soundcloud.

Give it a listen after the jump. Interview lasts just about an hour in duration. You can also listen to more interviews via their podcast here. Hope you all enjoy! Thanks to Rob and Jacob for reaching out and coming up to the shop for the interview.

Cool. Can't wait to have a listen. When you use your purge fittings, are you feeding off the same tank your are welding from or do you have a separate argon tank? Many times over...AWESOME work. Thanks for sharing your story.

 

[fortyfour]

Cool. Can't wait to have a listen. When you use your purge fittings, are you feeding off the same tank your are welding from or do you have a separate argon tank? Many times over...AWESOME work. Thanks for sharing your story.

Thanks - so for the purge fittings, I have a Victor Dual Flowmeter (DFM-150) that I feed off of. So one line goes to the torch with it's own specific settings in SCFH, and the other goes off to the purge setup with it's own SCFH settings. I typically will run the argon on the purge for about 5-10 minutes at say 10 SCFH, then while welding, back it down to 5-7 SCFH. Torch settings are very different of course. I know I've read about some people stating that this can cause certina problems running it off of one tank, but i have not seen or experienced anything on my end doing it this way. Hope that helps.

 

[Nightshift]

Kris, just stumbled across this dude ... you gotta check him out. Serious rider. Looks like he could use you to build him a sturdy ride

www.youtube.com/embed/xQ_IQS3VKjA?feature=player_embedded

 

[kjdhawkhill]

anyone with this solid attention to detail is out of my range for the next three bikes… but with some good luck on on the lotto, I'll order up a trio in heart beat from you.

Found out about this site when your buildout was cross-posted and found your thread again.

I just don't know what to do with my two car attached…

 

[elsinore6]

Kris, are those Moffatt work lights on your Bridgeport? I recently bought something that looks similar from Rockler, for my drill press. I bought one with the magnetic base, and that part is fine. The problem I'm having is that the light droops down, and the flex arm won't hold itself in position for more than a few minutes at a time. One of the guys at work has recommended trying the Moffatts with the magnetic base. He uses them and says he never has any problems with the lights sagging, and the magnets hold them in place without any trouble. Just curious what you're using, and if you're happy with them. I need to buy 3 more - 2 for the mill and 1 for the lathe, but wanted some feedback from someone who actually uses them, as opposed to reviews on Amazon. Thanks Kris!

 

[fortyfour]

Kris, are those Moffatt work lights on your Bridgeport? I recently bought something that looks similar from Rockler, for my drill press. I bought one with the magnetic base, and that part is fine. The problem I'm having is that the light droops down, and the flex arm won't hold itself in position for more than a few minutes at a time. One of the guys at work has recommended trying the Moffatts with the magnetic base. He uses them and says he never has any problems with the lights sagging, and the magnets hold them in place without any trouble. Just curious what you're using, and if you're happy with them. I need to buy 3 more - 2 for the mill and 1 for the lathe, but wanted some feedback from someone who actually uses them, as opposed to reviews on Amazon. Thanks Kris!

You are correct: The lights on my Bridgeport are Moffatt Compact Florescent Task Lamps. These have the 24" flexible arms. When I purchased the first one, I had chosen a magnetic base. Only problem I found was that it would slowly slide down the side of the Bridgeports body. What I did discover when taking a closer look at both the direct mount and the magnetic base version was that they were identical. It was just that the magnetic base version included the magnet. So if you do get the magnetic version, you can take the magnet off, drill, tap and mount the light directly to your machine (and I actually find that I use those magnets in other places i.e. when i weld, they hold my filler rod/cutting pliers when not in use).

So that is what I did and it of course stays put now. The arms themselves are REALLY well made and the lamp itself is completely serviceable through Moffatt should you require any replacement parts. When adjusted, they stay put. I would highly recommend the 24" length arm version - the 18" just is not long enough IMO. I recently mounted this on my lathe as well. Super happy with them. You can buy them directly or purchase through ENCO.

 

[fortyfour]

The North Wall...

 

[mustangmike6996]

Dude, these look like excellent bikes!

 

[elsinore6]

Thanks Kris! I'll go check them out on ENCO's website. Your shop looks great with the lathe in place!

 

[ihrescue]

My life long goal has always been to start a small custom frame shop. As luck would have it, when my wife and I moved from Providence, RI to New Hampshire, I had an opportunity to apprentice under a long time frame builder (Ted Wojcik) and hone my skills once a week in exchange for graphic design and redesigning his brand identity.

Your whole thread is one of many on GJ that offers insight into how to do it all right. From your excellent product to the "place" and I say place because its more then just a shop. Nicely done.

 

[Tman]

I like that 45 degree layout of the tools. I may have to copy that!

 

[fortyfour]

Your whole thread is one of many on GJ that offers insight into how to do it all right. From your excellent product to the "place" and I say place because its more then just a shop. Nicely done.

Thank you. It all takes time, patience and knowing you have to keep pushing forward. Sure there are set backs, but I keep pushing forward and things eventually fall into place.

 

[fortyfour]

I like that 45 degree layout of the tools. I may have to copy that!

Sure thing! Have at it. The machine shop at school was set up this way on two walls (one with the majority of the lathes the other with all the Bridgeports) and I always kind of liked that with a center section for work benches/assembly etc. Ironically I started that way where I started the work and thinking from the center of the shop with a bench for work, vise stand close by facing the windows then worked out along the periphery for specific tasks and machines. I found my work flow really got honed because of this. The set up is a result of "how" I work I think? I'll take a pano of the current shop later today and post up for all to see.

 

[weldtoride]

Kristofer, thanks for taking the considerable time to post everything here. I am not very active here on GJ, but I am a long-time subscriber to this thread, and always enjoy reading it. You are inspirational to many, I am sure.

As regards lathes being positioned at 45 degrees to the wall in a school shop, it puts the operators out-of-alignment with each other; a safer set-up in case of a "flyer". If the lathes were all parallel at 90 degrees to the wall, an accident could be more easily affect more than one operator.

 

[4019pine]

Kristofer, I just ran across your post and read through some of the pages. I also like having elbow room and kid my wife that when we retire I want a few acres to keep me busy and a shed/workshop larger than the house ha ha. How is your bike building business going? I live between Milwaukee and Green Bay and commute to work on a mountain bike converted to be more road friendly. I have a nice road bike for long weekend rides. Have you sold frames into Wisconsin?

 

[fortyfour]

Kristofer, thanks for taking the considerable time to post everything here. I am not very active here on GJ, but I am a long-time subscriber to this thread, and always enjoy reading it. You are inspirational to many, I am sure.

As regards lathes being positioned at 45 degrees to the wall in a school shop, it puts the operators out-of-alignment with each other; a safer set-up in case of a "flyer". If the lathes were all parallel at 90 degrees to the wall, an accident could be more easily affect more than one operator.

Thanks for that reminder - I recall that being discussed now that you mention it. Ironically, I don't like when things are all lined up on a wall for some reason. It makes it look to assembly line like to me maybe? But I do like this setup, things seem to flow a bit more naturally now. Here's a shot from today:

 

[fortyfour]

Kristofer, I just ran across your post and read through some of the pages. I also like having elbow room and kid my wife that when we retire I want a few acres to keep me busy and a shed/workshop larger than the house ha ha. How is your bike building business going? I live between Milwaukee and Green Bay and commute to work on a mountain bike converted to be more road friendly. I have a nice road bike for long weekend rides. Have you sold frames into Wisconsin?

Thanks for the kind words. It seems I have been selling a bunch on the east coast, a bunch in the midwest and a handful out on the west coast. I'd say the majority seem to be in the midwest as of late actually. I do have a good handful of overseas clients too. Basically I ship globally. But it's always nice when they are in these great 50 states!

Another shot from today:

 

[cjn1014]

As a boutique frame builder, how are keeping up/deciding on the unending array of new "standards", as far as bottom bracket and rear hub spacing?

27.5+ fat on a standard 29er as a second wheelset is intriguing to me right now.

 

[fortyfour]

As a boutique frame builder, how are keeping up/deciding on the unending array of new "standards", as far as bottom bracket and rear hub spacing?

27.5+ fat on a standard 29er as a second wheelset is intriguing to me right now.

I have been and actually have built some of the "Plus" sized bikes (29+ to be exact). The new 27.5+ does intrigue. Added traction, little more fun factor and not as large in diameter as a 29+ (which is technically about 30" in diameter).

Regarding all the standards with axle spacing and bottom bracket widths: I am abreast of all the standards and attempt to choose the best combination for what the rider is looking to do with their bike given their riding style and terrain they hope to tackle. It is mind numbing, but the way I see it things are settling in (for me and how I build) actually around the wheel size and the specs of the bike. IMO: All the plus sized bikes ideally should be sporting a 150mm rear axle spacing with a 83mm bb shell width. That allows for good chain line and plenty of spacing for chainring, tire and chain stay clearance without a sacrifice of chain stay length which does effect handling. That also gives you the option of a QR rear as 150 or a TA (Thru Axle) with 157mm spacing. Keep in mind with a TA, all that happens is there is a 3.5mm "lip" that is added to key the axle into place. The actual rear spacing is still 150mm, or for 12x142mm TA's, it's still 135mm, as are the fat bike standards of 170/177mm and 190/197mm. Once you have that straight in your head, it's actually not that daunting. It's the end caps of the TA versions of the hubs that have the added 3.5mm's to each side, which in turn locate the axle into the frame no matter what the spacing is. For mountain bikes (traditional 26, 650b/27.5 or 29) 73mm bottom bracket shells still rule in combination with the 12x142mm rear TA standard or the long living QR 135mm spacing. 15mm TA's up front are still king and I see that settling in on all the different axle spacing's for fat, road and mountain. i do see however, 135mm for fat bike not going anywhere and 15x142 being the rigid standard as there are so many existing 135mm front hubs out there now that may be able to be converted with a swap of bearings/axles/end caps. I know Rock Shox put out their Bluto fork with a 150mm spacing. So I "think" suspension forks for fat bikes that do follow will continue along with that spacing. Road with Disc and Thru Axles will just follow what the traditional mountain standards have been (135mm QR rear or 12x142mm TA). For fat bikes sporting a max tire size of 4", 170mm QR/177mm TA is fine. Anything larger than 5" tires, you need a 190mm QR/197mm TA spaced bike. That's how that breaks down.

It is a lot to keep up with... But there has been so much innovation lately, it's worth the leg work.

But, like I said, I pick and choose what I feel has merit and build with that in mind.

 

[fortyfour]

A few shots from yesterday... Enjoy!

 

[dozerbuilder01]

That lathe you bought is in pretty nice shape. Glad to see you're putting it to good use already. Great lookin bikes too.

 

[kjdhawkhill]

Shimano Ultegra Di2 Electronic shifting with Hydraulic Disc Brakes and 11 spd drivetrain…… She's looking forward to commuting to work by bike when it's finished...

wow!

 

[CubbyChowder]

Those frames are works of art. I love seeing people who take pride in their work, keep it up.

 

[kjdhawkhill]

I first went through your shop build a few years ago when it was linked in the RBR forums. I was impressed then, with the work you were putting into the building itself. Yesterday I read through the whole thing over again, and have gained even more appreciation for the shop and the products coming out of it.

Congrats on building the DEB, I can only imagine the thoughts going through your head when that call came in.

I really like the Hunstman projects you've been building. They almost make me regret spending my big money on a road(ier) bike from another USA company… Maybe when you feel comfortable building (selling) Ti, I'll have the funds to justify a full blown package of Ti Huntsman, custom racks etc.

Keep posting pics, the bike **** ones in particular inspire me to ride in tattered kit and keep driving the well-worn cars I have to grow the savings for a bike from you or someone similar.

 

[cendres]

Here's the latest version of my fat bike. I do not believe i actually posted this up here so here it is! The big changes for this one are 1x11, rear axle spacing is now 190mm, bottom bracket height has been lowered, wheelbase is stretched, wheels are lighter amongst a few other small details. Enjoy.

Very, very nice. What is the total weight?

 

[fortyfour]

Very, very nice. What is the total weight?

Thanks for the kind words. 28lbs as pictured.

 

[fortyfour]

Here's some recent work. Enjoy.

















Recently finished:









Two left raw with a little touch up to show the photo set up:

 

[RivennHewn]

I glanced thru this thread a time or two, but dug into it a bit more today.

I've enjoyed seeing your work, and the pics are great.

As others have said, thanks for taking the time to document and post your work.

 

[Stuart in MN]

As always your work looks great, but I have a question - the seat stays on your frames have a slight ess shape to them (they bend in by the tires, then back out as they go down to the rear wheel hangars.) Is that done to provide extra clearance for the rider's feet, or is it just for a little extra style?

As an aside, I noticed your Park bike stand in the most recent photos above; Howard Hawkins, the founder of Park Tool, passed away a few weeks ago at the age of 82.

http://www.twincities.com/localnews/ci_27405034/twin-cities-bike-repair-pioneer-howard-hawkins-dies