4x6 Horizontal Bandsaw Options

[soloz2]

I'm looking at horizontal bandsaws to use cutting metal stock. Primary purpose will be for hobby use mild steel or some aluminum cutting. I'd like to be able to primarily make both 90 and 45 degree miters for general fab/shop projects. I'm relatively new to metal working and just got a welder and am learning to weld. I know I can cut metal with an angle grinder and my hackzall, but I'd like to be able to easily cut straight lines. I'm not interested in an abrasive chop saw and am leaning band saw over a dry cut saw like the Evo or Skillsaw options as the bandsaws are quieter and cleaner.
I've done some reading and it seems nearly all of the options available are similar, but some are better than others. When considering freight costs Harbor Freight is clearly cheaper than the other options, but I wonder if it might be better to spend a little more to get a Wen or Grizzly. Here's the pricing I found (base price plus shipping, as Harbor Freight is the only model that is actually available locally)
Harbor Freight 93762 $279.99 if I pick up or $301.93 delivered
Wen 3970 $352.20 -$384
General International BS5205 $378.29 - appears to be closer to HF than others
Northern Tool Klutch $392.55
Grizzly G6022 $458.95 -$484.95
Jet HVBS-56 $599

The stand/base appears to be better, and identical, on the Wen, Klutch, and Grizzly. The HF and GI appear to be the same stand/base. Jet appears to have the nicest base, but is also 2x the price.
Based on what I've seen all of them will likely need some tweaking and possibly some modifications in order to be really good. Assuming this, is it worth spending more to get one that might be a bit better? Basically, assume $300 for HF, $350 for Wen, $400 for Klutch, $460 for Grizzly, and $600 for Jet. Price jumps about $50 each time.

 

[930dreamer]

I'd buy a Jet over HF if you can swing the cost.

 

[soloz2]

I'd buy a Jet over HF if you can swing the cost.

I theoretically could, although I'd have to save another month or two. However, if the Jet isn't any better than say the Wen or Grizzly I'd rather go that route to spread my $ a bit farther.

I also haven't counted out used. I just missed a used Jet, but overall folks are really poor at responding to messages so not sure how likely it is I'll be able to snag a good used one. I found an old Ridgid that was possibly US made, but waiting to hear back on availability, and I'm also waiting to hear back on a swivel Grizzly. I'm not really holding my breath on either as even if I hear back I wouldn't be able to even go look at them until the weekend due to my work schedule.

 

[bobcatdan]

I'm going to way blow your budget by a mile, but I'm figuring on one of these days of buying a Jet 5×7 mitering bandsaw for around $1000, hopefully a little less on sale. To me it looks like a nice jump up from the standard 4x6 and the ease of doing angles.

 

[csp]

I found an old Ridgid that was possibly US made

I have one of those old Ridgids and have seen several others. Made in Taiwan

 

[soloz2]

I'm going to way blow your budget by a mile, but I'm figuring on one of these days of buying a Jet 5×7 mitering bandsaw for around $1000, hopefully a little less on sale. To me it looks like a nice jump up from the standard 4x6 and the ease of doing angles.

Grizzly offers one for about $800. I've messaged about a used one.
The Ridgid sold before I heard back. [emoji2371]

 

[tarbellb]

From a usability standpoint, definitely check out the Grizzly G9742. More capacity, a little more money, but a much better saw with the swivel head.

https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-5-x-6-1-2-hp-metal-cutting-bandsaw-w-swivel-head/g9742

 

[Yankeefarmer]

Since no one else has said it, I will. Everybody here on GJ loves to spend other peoples’ money when making recommendations. I bought the harbor freight saw 4 or 5 years ago. All I have done to it is fit a proper blade and use a jig when setting cutting angle. It has done everything I have asked of it, and is much more pleasant to use than my abrasive chop saw. For the few things I’ve needed to cut that are too big, I have used my sawzall with a metal cutting blade.

Without having had a metal cutting horizontal bandsaw, it’s hard to know just what is important to you. But the HF is inexpensive enough that if you are not satisfied with it after a year or three, you can sell it on CL for a fair amount of change and buy your next saw based on the particular things you didn’t like about it.

 

[Larwyn]

I have been using my harbor freight 4x6 horizontal vertical band saw for around 15 years now. I did build a new stand for it to get it up higher off the ground and I added a coolant pump. But none of these modifications were probably necessary they were just for my own convenience. The coolant may actually make the blades last longer though. I don't do as much fabrication now as I did for the first 10 years or so that I had this saw but I still use it fairly regularly when I need to for smaller projects. This saw has served me really well cut ting mostly one quarter inch thick and thinner steel tubing, bar, and rod. But I have cut thicker steel as well. Blade selection becomes important when you get to the thicker stuff.







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[Renegade1LI]

I had the HF for about 6 yrs, no issues at all,kinda wish I kept it. But once I got the grizzly G0613 mitering band saw I never looked back. If I were you I would save up a little more & get a saw you will grow in to like the G9742, good reviews & honestly for hobby work I dry cut. I would rather replace a blade a little sooner & not have to deal with coolant, same with drill bits,quicker to clean & paint.

 

[Indexmill]

Any of these 4x6 horizontal band saws WILL REQUIRE tuning before use. Even new ones. Be prepared to do this extremely important step if you want straight, square cuts. And spend the money on a good bi-metal blade.

If you like tinkering and saving $, then look for a used one. They are all essentially the same. If a used one is not broken or clapped out, it can be tuned to perform as new.

For new, buy the HF and tune it.

 

[macgee]

I would look out for a used Johnson Bandsaw, they sell for cheap and are very good saws that last forever but I also saw this Grizzly G9742 in Buffalo for $300, good price for a swivel head and hydraulic down feed control.

https://buffalo.craigslist.org/tls/d/lockport-metal-bandsaw/7256356240.html

 

[MushCreek]

I had a Harbor Freight, and never could get it to work right. It took a lot of work to even make it functional. One of the bearings was so loose it would ride out of it's counterbore. I had to bore it out and press in a sleeve. The gearbox was badly out of line with the frame, and had to be shimmed. I don't remember what all I did to the saw, but the blades wouldn't stay on no matter what I did. Years before, I had a Rong Fu that was identical, and it worked fine after the usual tune-up. I sold the HF for $100 and was happy to see it go.

Now I have a giant (24" cut) Kalamazoo. It's TOO big, so I need to clean it up and sell it and look for a normal-size saw. There's very little available on the used market between the little 4X6 saws and big commercial saws.

 

[soloz2]

I would look out for a used Johnson Bandsaw, they sell for cheap and are very good saws that last forever but I also saw this Grizzly G9742 in Buffalo for $300, good price for a swivel head and hydraulic down feed control.

https://buffalo.craigslist.org/tls/d/lockport-metal-bandsaw/7256356240.html

That's actually the one I messaged about and never heard back. I'm not sure if it's no longer available, or the seller is not very motivated.

 

[BD1]

My harbor freight saw is at least 12 years and still going. I recently replaced motor.
My upgrade was a ELLIS 1600, which is amazing but not cheap. My harbor freight is still used for small stuff.
The Hemi Swivel Head has great reviews and not too bad for cost.

https://www.trick-tools.com/Femi_782XL_Benchtop_Mitering_Bandsaw_F_782XL_000_00_0_000_2209


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[macgee]

That's actually the one I messaged about and never heard back. I'm not sure if it's no longer available, or the seller is not very motivated.

Did you call him? His number is posted

 

[soloz2]

Did you call him? His number is posted

I had been communicating via text on Monday and planned to drive up to look at it, but they stopped responding. I called earlier today and they said it sold. My guess they sold it Monday and just never let me know. Seems to happen more and more frequently. Someone sells something and instead of saying they sold it they just never respond.

 

[Downwindtracker 2]

Any 4x6 is a kit that can be reworked into very useful tool. There is enough tips on the web to keep you busy.

 

[Aaron_W]

Since no one else has said it, I will. Everybody here on GJ loves to spend other peoples’ money when making recommendations. I bought the harbor freight saw 4 or 5 years ago. All I have done to it is fit a proper blade and use a jig when setting cutting angle. It has done everything I have asked of it, and is much more pleasant to use than my abrasive chop saw. For the few things I’ve needed to cut that are too big, I have used my sawzall with a metal cutting blade.

Without having had a metal cutting horizontal bandsaw, it’s hard to know just what is important to you. But the HF is inexpensive enough that if you are not satisfied with it after a year or three, you can sell it on CL for a fair amount of change and buy your next saw based on the particular things you didn’t like about it.

Agree, it is good enough at bargain price. They are cheap enough that you can easily use it until you know what you really want and can save up to get it, then turn around and sell it for 1/2 what you paid.

In the time I've had mine it has saved me enough on cutting fees at my local metal supply to have easily paid for itself. I now have a bigger vintage Kalamazoo, but the HF is small enough that it can stay in the corner and I still use it on occasion. It can be handy to have 2 bandsaws. I can leave the Kalamazoo cutting away on a large piece and while it works I can cut up a bunch of small pieces on the HF.

 

[My Old Tools]

Or for a couple of hundred bucks you could get a nice little power hacksaw. They cut straight, blades are cheap. Lots of them around. They aren't really much slower than a bandsaw and are much less fussy. I now have a medium and a small.

 

[BD1]

A horizontal bandsaw is definitely a must have for most material. As stated a Milwaukee portaband handheld maybe an option. I have a couple and one is mounted on a base with table. I set it up to be held in vise. After using it, added base. It was used and cheap because of cracked casting. Definitely unsafe for hand use. It's great for my artwork small pieces. Swag has tables they sell for Bandsaws. Had my setup 10 years.

Harbor Freight's Bandsaw for about a $100.00 has good reviews.

 

[HaiKarate]

Grab a 4x6 off of CL for $50-80 or so. Why waste $ buying new when the designs are essentially the same and you're going to be fiddling with it regardless?

 

[Bugeyed Earl]

I agree that finding a used unit is the way to go (assuming that's an option in your area.) FYI, the HF model appears to be identical to the G6022 apart from the stand, I doubt the Grizzly saw is worth the extra $200.

I was on the hunt for one of these also for a while, and I've been seeing used examples pretty regularly around $100-$150. I got this one at the bottom end of that range, it works great and hasn't had much use:

 

[soloz2]

I've been looking around for used ones and I think I'm going to keep my eye out for one. In the meantime I blew most of my budget on a new tool box, so if I don't find a cheap one I'll have to hold off a bit. I am tempted to save and try and get one of the swivel ones with hydraulic downfeed. I know they start around $800-900, but if I can find one for half that used I'd be pretty happy.

 

[Pingel85]

I’m happy with my harbor freight one. Yup, get a good blade, get your setup dialed in, and it’ll cut.

 

[soloz2]

I haven't forgotten about this, and have gotten sidetracked a bit as I spent most of my budget on other items I needed (clearance tool cabinet and shop lights) I've seen some comments about motors burning up, smoking, and overall being a potential fire hazard. I've looked at all the bandsaws I've been able to find and it seems most do not list any certification or UL listing at all with a couple exceptions. Shop Fox at least comes right out and says their saw is not certified at all.

Jet HVBS-56 is UL listed
General International BS5205 says ETL certification on their website and CSA listing in the manual. Unclear which it is.

wisdom indicates it would be best to get a unit that has undergone testing to make sure it's safeish. I'm sure I could unplug the saw after each use, but history tells me I'm not always good with this. How big a deal is this really?

 

[csp]

Common sense dictates that if a motor isn't powered, it can't burn up. The switch cuts power to the motor.

 

[HaiKarate]

wisdom indicates it would be best to get a unit that has undergone testing to make sure it's safeish. I'm sure I could unplug the saw after each use, but history tells me I'm not always good with this. How big a deal is this really?

Is this a serious question?

What do you think this thing is going to do? Power itself on and come into your house and chop you up? If you're worried about it spontaneously combusting, I'm pretty sure its a moot point or 80% of GJ users who already own these cheap *** things would be posting about their bandsaws burning up instead of recommending them to you. Worried about getting shocked? Add a better ground.

If you are that paranoid, you can unplug it.

 

[soloz2]

I was asking a serious question. It makes sense a tool designed to be run in a way that automatically stops when the cut is done without the operator standing with their hand on the trigger should have some type of thermal overload. I actually never even thought to check until folks mentioned having to replace motors and getting units that were UL listed.

 

[csp]

It stops the cut by physically turning the switch to the off position. It's the exact same motion as a human turning the same switch to the off position. My guess is you've never actually seen one turn the switch off just as the cut is completed, allowing the saw to drop low enough to flip the swith.

 

[soloz2]

The responses today have been rather pretentious. Neither poster actually answered my question.
I understand how the auto shut off works when the cut is complete, and no, I don't think the saw can magically turn itself on. However, there are numerous reports of HF and other inexpensive bandsaw motors catching fire when the blade binds. I understand it's best to watch the machine, but this isn't practical 100% of the time. I'd rather not have a unit that is a fire or electrical hazard if anything should occur. This is where safety certifications and overload protections come into play. I was hoping to have an actual discussion about safety features, but unfortunately that wasn't able to occur here. I asked elsewhere and got some excellent responses that prompted an in depth discussion. Thanks for those that have helped.

 

[MushCreek]

The HF I had got very hot- too hot to touch when running. I suppose if it was left unattended for a long period, it could catch fire. Although I may work on something else while the saw (any saw) is running, I'm in the same room if something goes wrong. Even commercial machines can jam up from time to time. Most of my experience is with thick pieces of tool steel, which is slow going, and everything has to be set-up right.

 

[Zapp Branigan]

I've heard the cheap saws will explode, and when left unattended, will sneak in to your house and violate your wife. Better play it safe and spend the extra dough.

 

[BLUE72CAMARO]

I was given two of the cheap off brand band saws and had the intention to combine them to make one good saw but before that project ever got traction I bought an old ridgid saw off of one of my dads buddies, side note it was made in u.s.a. After working the kinks out of it with a new downfeed cylinder setup I bought a kalamazoo 9x16 for a $100 dollars at a farm consignment. 600$ in parts and a lot of elbow grease its back in action and a great saw.

The new downfeed on the old ridgid(emerson) saw. Literally sold this to my buddy a couple weeks after installing.



Kalamazoo when I bought it, early 60's manufacture date.



As she sits now.

 

[DeeKay]

OP, I own a JET HVBS-56 and as far as I can tell it's pretty much the same saw as the Grizzly and HF with a few minor differences....I'd imagine most of the parts are made in the same factory.

As far as the UL listing goes, I've never been able to find anything on my motor itself so who knows if it actually is UL listed. The manual also lists the motor as TEFC when it's actually an ODP motor. I have a feeling whoever typed up the manual had no idea what they were talking about. I wouldn't worry about it catching on fire, I'd imagine people are having problems because they're using these things like production saws and burning up motors.

Right out the gate my JET leaked all of its gear oil out and started to bind up, turned out the shaft seal was rolled over from the factory. It could have been a warranty thing, but it was easier just to order $15 in good bearings and seals from Mcmaster and just fix it myself. Ever since then it's been a good saw.
If I had to do it over again I would have bought the Grizzly mitering 5x6 saw instead.

 

[WagonHo!]

Sawblade.com Trajan 125 variable speed. Love it, always have to go get it from my nephew who “borrows it”. Catch them on a sale.

 

[csp]

The responses today have been rather pretentious. Neither poster actually answered my question.
I understand how the auto shut off works when the cut is complete, and no, I don't think the saw can magically turn itself on. However, there are numerous reports of HF and other inexpensive bandsaw motors catching fire when the blade binds. I understand it's best to watch the machine, but this isn't practical 100% of the time.

So your concern is actually while it's cutting, because the below is what you stated. This lead me to believe that you thought there could be a problem when the saw isn't being used. Just food for thought.

I'm sure I could unplug the saw after each use, but history tells me I'm not always good with this. How big a deal is this really?

 

[Renegade1LI]

I would be more concerned about where you plug it in & being properly grounded, could always use a gfi for a little additional protection or change the breaker to a thermal circuit breaker.

 

[Downwindtracker 2]

My buddy left his small cheap Delta 8" drill press running , he uses it for polishing, while he did something else. And likely forgot about it. It did catch fire, even though it wasn't under load. The electric motor only had vents for cooling, no fan.

I bought a used one which I know is on at least it's second switch. The wiring gave that away.

 

[Aaron_W]

The responses today have been rather pretentious. Neither poster actually answered my question.
I understand how the auto shut off works when the cut is complete, and no, I don't think the saw can magically turn itself on. However, there are numerous reports of HF and other inexpensive bandsaw motors catching fire when the blade binds. I understand it's best to watch the machine, but this isn't practical 100% of the time. I'd rather not have a unit that is a fire or electrical hazard if anything should occur. This is where safety certifications and overload protections come into play. I was hoping to have an actual discussion about safety features, but unfortunately that wasn't able to occur here. I asked elsewhere and got some excellent responses that prompted an in depth discussion. Thanks for those that have helped.

I don't know about catching fire, but I have heard of people burning out the motor because the blade got bound and they were not right there to see it happen. I'm not sure that this is an issue limited to the cheap bandsaws other than a better quality motor might be more tolerant of the overload. In theory most motors have a breaker or other fuse but this may be like the oil light in a car where by the time it comes on the damage has been done.

Although the saws will run unattended, I will do other things while it cuts but I never go far from them when running.