I caught this thread a few days ago, but only now am I able to type a response. I love the way your house looks from the outside.
I'm a (nearly) lifelong resident of West Michigan, so Welcome! My hometown is Allendale, home of GVSU, and I now live just north I96 and the Grand River.
I also heat with an OWB and I will say that I like it, and the gathering and processing of firewood, but it is a lot of work; especially if you try to do it all at once.
If you're able to do a little work every day, for gathering and preparing it become routine and does not seem so daunting.
2 years ago I was in a similar situation with my heat. I had fought through the previous winter with my pellet stove and propane, and decided that OWB was the way to go.
I took delivery of 10 cord of log length Red Oak in the fall, but it was freshly cut, and I didn't want to burn it and waste it as it was still so green. (I have read that red oak takes a long time to lose its moisture) I burned standing dead pine and poplar for the first winter, and it was ok. The high moisture content really makes more smoke (steam) and you lose a lot of the heat energy out to evaporation, rather than into the water jacket of the boiler. There are other detriments to burning green wood, but you CAN heat the place with green wood.
When I bought my red oak 2 years ago it was $2k for 20 cord (divided with my Father-in-law) I think that red oak has about 2x the BTU content of pine. I'm not sure what today's rate is for firewood, but I'm not sure if the number that you quoted is a good deal.
Here is an old thread about firewood people in Michigan. I got mine form Kirk Cameron, mentioned in the thread.
http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...emi-loads-of-wood-in-central-michigan.180607/
I have made it a habit to read daily at arboristsite.com in the firewood/wood heating section and the chainsaw section, as that place has many many people that know saws and heating very very well.
If your electric saw is able to pull the chain without stalling, yet you are still unable to get healthy chips out, your are definitely looking at a dull chain.
It can't be said enough that most saw problems are the result of a dull chain. A sharp chain with properly set depth gages creates less work for the motor, less heat due to friction and just plain cuts faster.
You can read until you can't stand it about how to properly sharpen the chain.
I'm not sure what type of chain your electric machine has, but there are some very good (I have heard) clamp on the bar type sharpeners that use a file that create a good angle every time. I think the Granberg File n Joint is highly recommended and under $40.
Your Stihl is also a great machine, but like you said, you are unable to start it.
I'm not sure what your limitations are, but there may be a slightly smaller saw that will be start-able and also very smooth and vibration free if you were interested in trying to use a Gas powered machine.
The Husqvarna 545 (not to be confused with 455, or 445, 450) is a 50cc professional quality machine that has very well isolated handles for reduced vibration, autotune technology which automatically adjusts the carburetor tune and it also has a compression release which eases the ability to pull start it.
You MAY be able to start your existing Stihl if you get a full D shaped handle, which will allow you to fully grasp the handle. I've installed it them on my larger saws. If I'm being too presumptuous, I'm apologize . . .
One unfortunate thing about "professional" chain sharpening shops, is that many of them really have not idea what they are doing. They just have a machine that's set one way and they run 'em. I've seen horrendous jobs from so-called professional shops.
Keep the chain away from dirt. If you notice degraded cutting, stop to sharpen or swap chains. It's always easier to touch up a slightly dull chain than it is to sharpen a blunted/rocked chain.
Keep us updated on the progress.
Take care,
Phill