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5HP Compressor on 120V, how is this possible?

freebo86

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Alright been looking around for a compressor, im a DIY when it comes to car stuff. I'm not looking for a compressor that could paint a car so nothing fancy.

I'm still on the toss up between a 220V unit as I need to install a subpanel in my garage for this first. And I know their better, but also a lot more $$.

I stumbled on this 5HP, 120V, 5.8 CFM Campbell Hausfeld compressor for sale for a reasonable price but what I don't understand is how can this unit be 5HP and only be 120V?

5HP at 120V is rated at 56A according to my knowledge.

So school me here what's the catch 22 here?
 
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exranger06

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It's 5 hp but only capable of 5.8 cfm? That's pathetic. My guess is that 5 hp is a ******** "peak" rating, not what it's actually capable of. What's the model number of this compressor?
 

matt_i

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Its "shop vac" horsepower.

Get a compressor that uses a 3+ hp induction motor that runs on 240vac. You will be happier.
 
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freebo86

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It's 5 hp but only capable of 5.8 cfm? That's pathetic. My guess is that 5 hp is a ******** "peak" rating, not what it's actually capable of. What's the model number of this compressor?

Don't have a model number, but see the picture of it below.. if it helps any. Isn't 5.8cfm pretty decent at 90 psi, for mechanic tools?




Its "shop vac" horsepower.

Get a compressor that uses a 3+ hp induction motor that runs on 240vac. You will be happier.

Yah ideally I'd want this, maybe just hold of until I bring in 220v into the shop and then look around for compressors.

The motor is stall rated at 5HP. It can produce 5HP worth of heat, but not 5HP worth of work.

Yah, this sounds useless.


This what the unit actually looks like, unless it is 220v and the woman just doesn't know what shes talking about?

VT6290-1-500x500.jpg
 

strength_and_power

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For use once a month, 120v would probably be fine except on some if the higher air usage tools. For more frequent work you will be much happier with a 220v compressor. Definitely worth waiting for
 

pancho400cid

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The motor is stall rated at 5HP. It can produce 5HP worth of heat, but not 5HP worth of work.

Well said - that is what the mnfr's call "max developed HP". That motor "might" make 5 HP worth of heat for the few milliseconds before the rotor actually turns. That's what they put in huge letters on the outside of the unit. If you read the motor nameplate it will give the actual full-load running amps (FLA) and it "might" give the actual running output power (in HP and/or KW) somewhere... in 10 point type down below "MADE IN MEXICO"....
 

cj7jeep81

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Years ago, Campbell Hausfeld had a class action lawsuit against them for the misleading numbers. I agree with strength_and_power, for occasional use, that's fine. I wouldn't want to use a die grinder for a long time with one, but I've been stuck with a similar 120v one for a couple years now, and it's adequate for light occasional use.
 

md21722

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Its really a 1.5-2HP compressor that's probably about 10 years old because they don't advertise peak HP numbers much these days. Good for light duty use such as a 1/2" drive impact wrench or some use of an air ratchet.
 
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freebo86

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So for around the house, to take of lug nuts using an impact, or a punch. And use the air ratchet at times instead of the ol' ratchet by hand this would suffice?

Like I said, I'm not looking at painting a car. This thing is I guess $250 (CDN) so around $180 USD. Not even sure if that's worth it?
 

theoldwizard1

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Alright been looking around for a compressor, im a DIY when it comes to car stuff. I'm not looking for a compressor that could paint a car so nothing fancy.

A 1/2 hp 100-125 psi "pancake" will run most 1/2" impact wrenches for doing lug nuts. It might even run an air hammer if you don't hold the trigger for long periods. Fine for filling tires and blowing dust or even an air nailer/stapler (might have to wait a minute or two after shooting a half dozen framing nails.

Of course the noise on those little oil-less pancakes will drive you deaf in a few minutes and they are not noted for a long life.


This a good compromise California Air Tools 5510SE Ultra Quiet and Oil-Free 1.0-HP 5.5-Gallon Steel Tank Air Compressor
 

jeff lary

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That is the one I have I want to buy a better one but this one still runs. I bought it about 20 years ago in Walmart in Newport Maine. I use it for car tire air , air gun attachment for blowing debris of chain saws and such. I use a Campbell Hausfeld 1/2 impact and 3/8 ratchet.
I also have a right angle air grinder that will run about 30 seconds then the compressor cant keep up any more ha ha.
Does it work oh hell yes it does I paid $230.00 20 years ago. Honestly I bet it will run another 10 at least. It sits in my un-heated shop year round and is never shut off. But you will not run and D/A's or air drills or die grinders so body work is out. But it runs my paint sprayer ( Campbell Hausfeld as well)
 

TractorJeff

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For what the OP describes his use for, the one in the photo is fine!
Some of you guys think you need the biggest and baddest compressor when in reality what he has would probably suit you fine!
I've been in garages like that where the user never gets his ROI because his garage is "All Show and No Go!"
 
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freebo86

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A 1/2 hp 100-125 psi "pancake" will run most 1/2" impact wrenches for doing lug nuts. It might even run an air hammer if you don't hold the trigger for long periods. Fine for filling tires and blowing dust or even an air nailer/stapler (might have to wait a minute or two after shooting a half dozen framing nails.

Of course the noise on those little oil-less pancakes will drive you deaf in a few minutes and they are not noted for a long life.


This a good compromise California Air Tools 5510SE Ultra Quiet and Oil-Free 1.0-HP 5.5-Gallon Steel Tank Air Compressor

I already have a little craftsman 1/2 HP, but by looking at that thing the specs are terrible I couldn't run no kind of tool with it on top it has a small tank.

See the unit you linked, the CFM rating is absolute **** I think? Unless I am miss understanding something I was under the impression that I should be looking at like 5 CFM @ 90 psi to run some basic air tools ?

That is the one I have I want to buy a better one but this one still runs. I bought it about 20 years ago in Walmart in Newport Maine. I use it for car tire air , air gun attachment for blowing debris of chain saws and such. I use a Campbell Hausfeld 1/2 impact and 3/8 ratchet.
I also have a right angle air grinder that will run about 30 seconds then the compressor cant keep up any more ha ha.
Does it work oh hell yes it does I paid $230.00 20 years ago. Honestly I bet it will run another 10 at least. It sits in my un-heated shop year round and is never shut off. But you will not run and D/A's or air drills or die grinders so body work is out. But it runs my paint sprayer ( Campbell Hausfeld as well)

Thanks for sharing, yah I don't even think I'd use a air drill not sure why I'd need to. If you paid $230 20 years ago for it, then I don't think its worth the 180$ their asking now lol..

For what the OP describes his use for, the one in the photo is fine!
Some of you guys think you need the biggest and baddest compressor when in reality what he has would probably suit you fine!
I've been in garages like that where the user never gets his ROI because his garage is "All Show and No Go!"

Yah, this compressor business seems a lot more complicated than it should be I think on top of it these things are pricey even the **** units which I am unsure why?
 

manwithtools

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I like to call that 5hp "ILS" = "If Lighting Strikes".

The audio industry used to do the same thing, a 500 watt car stereo booster the size of a pack of cigarettes - yeah, right if lighting strikes the moment you turn the volume up to 10 you might make 500 watts for a millisecond or three :D

Same thing for a 5hp 120 compressor, like mentioned above its a "shop vac" rating. False advertising at the very least.....

If they stretched the truth about the hp, then what about the CFM number? Seems like there could be lots of bad ratings on a unit like that. It could possibly fit your needs, but only you can answer that based on the tools and frequency and duration you intend to use them
 
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mopwered

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I have the same one used it for years till i got a bigger one its good for impact guns and ratchets and airing up tires It is very noisy because the compressor is oilless .
 
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BDT/NWMN

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That is the one I have I want to buy a better one but this one still runs. I bought it about 20 years ago in Walmart in Newport Maine. I use it for car tire air , air gun attachment for blowing debris of chain saws and such. I use a Campbell Hausfeld 1/2 impact and 3/8 ratchet.
I also have a right angle air grinder that will run about 30 seconds then the compressor cant keep up any more ha ha.
Does it work oh hell yes it does I paid $230.00 20 years ago. Honestly I bet it will run another 10 at least. It sits in my un-heated shop year round and is never shut off. But you will not run and D/A's or air drills or die grinders so body work is out. But it runs my paint sprayer ( Campbell Hausfeld as well)


Jeff: I bought a similar 1 1/2 hp, 120volt Campbell Hausfeld compressor back in 1975 for similar purposes.. On at 80psi, off at 100psi.. It did what I expected it to do.. When it was about 30 years old, the tank developed a pin hole leak, so it remained unused for a few years till I found a used 60 gallon tank on Craig's List. The motor and compressor pump were transferred to this tank, fitted with a new drive belt, and rewired for 240volt on a dedicated circuit. I have chosen to retain the 80psi and 100psi pressure switch settings, but for curiosity=experiment did try increasing the settings to 105psi on and 125psi off.. ( well within the 135psi working, 155psi max ratings on the 60 gallon tank).. I looked up the specs on that single stage, two cylinder cast iron pump, to see if it was used on some compressors rated at 125psi; it was, but with a larger motor.
This old pump is designed to be plumbed with or without an unloader valve, and I have the unloader valve that originally came with the 60 gallon tank..
So, for a backup to my main shop compressor, the motor and compressor pump from the portable that I bought new in 1975 are still ready to work when needed.. It cost Me $60 for the used tank, and $17 for a longer belt.. I can increase the pressure to 125psi with the dedicated 240 volt circuit, and unloader valve,,,,, if-when needed. otherwise, it will remain set at 100psi shutoff... But airing up the steering tire on a semi truck to 110 psi requires more pressure... Bottom line is that I value and trust some of those units enough to justify keeping them around..

My shop compressor is 5hp, 80 gallon, set at 175psi.. Expensive unit that many Members could not justify owning,, The smaller portable units are more than adequate for these Members.. I still have the 1/2 hp portable that I bought new in 1969.. Still depend on it for air nozzle use and airing up tires out in the tractor shed.. Take care of these units, and they will usually serve you well.

Go bigger or go home???? that is one that I don't apply to air compressors:lol_hitti
 
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aptdweller

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In practical terms, the largest motor you can run on 120 V is 1.5 hp. 2 hp motors exist, but require a dedicated 20 amp line and use a different plug style. Remember that the service needs to both support the inrush current (can be many times the run current) and the running current.

What used to happen is that manufacturers would report the locked rotor current or the inrush current, which is misleading.

There are a few things you can look for:
- Run current: x amps * 120 V / 746 is you horsepower
- Manufacturer: brand names are much more accurate than barely marked Chinese motors
- Size/weight: If it looks like a 1/2 hp motor, it likely is
- Plug: again 120 V means 1.5 hp or less

I hope that helps.
 

Syberia

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It's obviously the exchange rate. 1 US HP is about 5 Chinese HP :lol_hitti

My shop vac claims the same thing, "5 HP" but ~12 amps and a 15 amp plug. Basically means it's drawing enough power to equal 5 HP assuming 100% efficiency (which is never going to happen anyways) for that brief few milliseconds when the lights flicker when you first turn it on, but if you held it at that power usage for any significant length of time, the motor would burn up. Why would anyone need a 5 HP vacuum anyways?
 
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kevinwilly

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It's obviously the exchange rate. 1 US HP is about 5 Chinese HP :lol_hitti

My shop vac claims the same thing, "5 HP" but ~12 amps and a 15 amp plug. Basically means it's drawing enough power to equal 5 HP assuming 100% efficiency (which is never going to happen anyways) for that brief few milliseconds when the lights flicker when you first turn it on, but if you held it at that power usage for any significant length of time, the motor would burn up. Why would anyone need a 5 HP vacuum anyways?

Spoken like a guy that has never used a 5 HP Vacuum. :)

We use a 8 HP one here at work and let me tell you: that thing *****. It's incredible. Not used to clean carpets or anything, but if it was they'd probably be the cleanest carpets in town.
 

nadogail

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A half assed crappy compressor that works and has been paid for, IMHO, inflates more tires, drives more nails, and turns more nuts than the best recommended compressor you don't yet have.
 

Stevie-Ray

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Spoken like a guy that has never used a 5 HP Vacuum. :)

We use a 8 HP one here at work and let me tell you: that thing *****. It's incredible. Not used to clean carpets or anything, but if it was they'd probably be the cleanest carpets in town.
:lol: We still have an old Hoover canister vacuum, (remember those?) that is 5 hp. We hardly ever use it anymore until we want the best possible job, like just before shampooing the carpet. Put anything within a foot of the powerhead, and it will start to move toward it. Anything within two inches or so gets sucked in.:lol:
 
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freebo86

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Wow, lots of input. Thanks for the info for both the compressor and shop vacs.

Still torn on whether to spend the extra bucks or not. Like a few have said, I'm more of a believer in actually using the unit then it just sitting their looking pretty - I've seen some garages on here that look fantastic but there isn't a spec of dirt anywhere's and I highly doubt it even gets used as such.

I'd prefer something a little smaller but yet powerful enough to handle DIY mechanic jobs, also considering my garage is limited in space it's a 20x20 I don't want to put in a 60gallon tank and have it take up a whole corner.

Currently my 3gallon, 120V, Craftsman just doesn't hold up to par or have the SCFM output..
 
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shadyluke

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I have a similar 5HP, 20 gal, CH compressor except mine is a noisy oil free version. It has serious issues tripping breakers. I it plugged into a 20A circuit with 20A receptacles and 12 ga wire less than 10 ft from the breaker and it still trips often, even with nothing else on the circuit.

Its a pain, I'm looking for a much larger 220V compressor.
 

shadyluke

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I'd prefer something a little smaller but yet powerful enough to handle DIY mechanic jobs, also considering my garage is limited in space it's a 20x20 I don't want to put in a 60gallon tank and have it take up a whole corner.
QUOTE]

Put it in a small lean to outside.
 
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freebo86

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I'd prefer something a little smaller but yet powerful enough to handle DIY mechanic jobs, also considering my garage is limited in space it's a 20x20 I don't want to put in a 60gallon tank and have it take up a whole corner.
QUOTE]

Put it in a small lean to outside.

That is a possibility. I'd have to build some sort of enclosure for it, not sure again how bad I'd want to go this route.

Stumbled on this thing too.. $130.
 

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MoonRise

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Alright been looking around for a compressor, im a DIY when it comes to car stuff. I'm not looking for a compressor that could paint a car so nothing fancy.

I'm still on the toss up between a 220V unit as I need to install a subpanel in my garage for this first. And I know their better, but also a lot more $$.

I stumbled on this 5HP, 120V, 5.8 CFM Campbell Hausfeld compressor for sale for a reasonable price but what I don't understand is how can this unit be 5HP and only be 120V?

5HP at 120V is rated at 56A according to my knowledge.

So school me here what's the catch 22 here?

As mentioned, that 5.8 cfm compressor is NOT 5 hp.

They lied.

C-H (and Craftsman, and others) were sued several years ago (more than once IIRC) because of those lies.

http://www.truetex.com/aircompressors.htm

http://www.wisedan.com/aircomp.html

Wow, lots of input. Thanks for the info for both the compressor and shop vacs.

Still torn on whether to spend the extra bucks or not. Like a few have said, I'm more of a believer in actually using the unit then it just sitting their looking pretty - I've seen some garages on here that look fantastic but there isn't a spec of dirt anywhere's and I highly doubt it even gets used as such.

I'd prefer something a little smaller but yet powerful enough to handle DIY mechanic jobs, also considering my garage is limited in space it's a 20x20 I don't want to put in a 60gallon tank and have it take up a whole corner.

Currently my 3gallon, 120V, Craftsman just doesn't hold up to par or have the SCFM output..

http://www.quincycompressor.com/about-us/air-compressor-horse-power/

Air tools are (or can be) rather handy. I have and use several. :thumbup:

But air tools are rather inefficient. :sad:

First you are taking electricity (usually) and turning that into compressed air. Losses in the electric motor and losses in the compressor pump. Then you take that compressed air, run it through some (often) overly long and too narrow hose and some restrictive fittings and try and turn the potential energy stored in that compressed air back into mechanical energy in an air tool (more losses).

So if you want or need to use air tool(s), accept all that inefficiency and make sure you have 'enough' compressor to supply 'enough' air (cfm) at the needed delivery pressure for the tool(s) to work.

Just want to air up some tires and don't really care how long it takes or how noisy the compressor is?

Almost any air compressor will be 'enough'.

Want to run an air impact or air ratchet for a few (single digit) seconds?

Most any air compressor with a tank greater than 10 gallons or so will let you run a 'burst' of air to run that impact wrench or ratchet for a few seconds (because it is using the air already in the tank). After a few seconds though, the air in the tank is 'gone' and now you are at the air-flow mercy of the compressor pump. Which means you have to wait for the tank to refill.

If you want to actually figure out how much air you 'need', pick your air tool of choice and look up what cfm it uses. (note: a LOT of air tools list the cfm 'needs' of the air tool based on a duty cycle or usage time of only 15%. So if the tool says it 'uses' 5 cfm on a 15% duty cycle, that actually means that the tool is using more than 20 cfm of air.


example time:

http://www.ingersollrandproducts.com/in-en/products/tools

Let's look at a 1/2" impact wrench, the Ingersol_Rand 231

http://www.ingersollrandproducts.co...pactools/1-2-drive/231-series/modelspec/33374

The average air consumption is only 4.2 cfm at 90 psi.

But under load (actually being used), this impact wrench is sucking air at 22 cfm!

(note: I like I-R stuff, I'm not picking on them. I like that their web pages list the average and the actual under-load air usage of their air tools.)

An impact wrench is (often? usually?) used for a few seconds and then you move onto the next fastener or next task, so maybe letting your air compressor tank refill is no big deal and doesn't negatively impact (no pun intended) your use of the tool or you 'work flow'.

Hmmm, how about a die grinder where you might want or need to run the tool rather continuously until the task/job is done?

I-R 3108 1/4" die grinder, only 3 cfm @ 90 psi, average air consumption.

But under load and actually being used, the tool is using 18 cfm of air at 90 psi.

If your compressor can't actually deliver 18 cfm continuously, then you will end up waiting for the compressor tank to refill before you can get back to the task at hand.

Moral: It really ***** to not have enough available air for whatever air tool you are using. Waiting for the compressor to refill the tank instead of being able to actually use the tool and do the task/job gets real annoying, real fast.

Get the biggest compressor you can (within reason, a 25 hp scroll compressor is a bit 'much' for most home usage. And you don't have the available electrical power to run it anyway. :p ).

That usually means a 3-5 hp (real motor horsepower, not the bogus 'peak' rating) 60 or 80 gallon compressor that can supply ~10-20 cfm at 90 psi. Big enough to do most jobs, not so huge that you can't put it in the garage in the first place, and you can (usually) actually power it electrically. IMNSHO.

:beer:
 

great white tj

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Here are the two that I use. The gray unit is in my shop and is a CH 220/110V motor and pump that where on a 26gal.compressor and moved over to this 60gal. tank. I have it running on 110 and have done so for the past 7 years... and works Great. The red unit also is a 110V unit on a 60gal tank, this unit as is has been running for 5 years in the garage. This ste up has worked for me very well over the years and no need to change at this time. I don't see why the unit the OP is asking about would not work for him.
 

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freebo86

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Here are the two that I use. The gray unit is in my shop and is a CH 220/110V motor and pump that where on a 26gal.compressor and moved over to this 60gal. tank. I have it running on 110 and have done so for the past 7 years... and works Great. The red unit also is a 110V unit on a 60gal tank, this unit as is has been running for 5 years in the garage. This ste up has worked for me very well over the years and no need to change at this time. I don't see why the unit the OP is asking about would not work for him.

Whats the outputs of those units?
 

great white tj

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Whats the outputs of those units?

When the pump and motor's where on the 30gal. tanks there SCFM where 6.6@ 40psi and 5.8@ 90psi and I don't think any of that changed. All I did was get was more air in the 60gal. tank. Now as for the HP... on the motor's the unit that is 220/110 is stamped 5hp on the motor. The red compressor is stamped 3hp.
 
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freebo86

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Well as if I hadn't received enough input.. Still haven't picked anything up. I did stumble on this unit. $400, its 240 but also 110V.. my garage doesn't have 240 yet but the plan is to get in there by end of summer. What's your thoughts on the brand & specs of the unit?

Gallon - 60,
HP - 6.5,
Volt - 240,110
Max PSI - 125,
CFM - 10.5 @ 90 PSI,
Oil
Dual Cylinder cast iron
 

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Showkey

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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Your right back where you started.........only this compressor is NOT 6.5 HP maybe 3.0. Forget about bogus HP ratings.
............that said 10.5 cfm will operate most tools, small paint gun and light duty sand blasting in a cabinet.

Not a bad price..........for 10.5 cfm
 
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freebo86

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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Your right back where you started.........only this compressor is NOT 6.5 HP maybe 2.5-3.0.
............that said 10.5 cfm will operate most tools, small paint gun and light duty sand blasting in a cabinet.

At $400 is not the buy of the century ........because it is used, unknown history, etc etc for another $100 you could likely find a new one.

Well how come its rated for 240V? Couldn't it be 6.5HP at 240?

Seems like it can operate at both voltages, certainly not 6.5HP @ 110..
 

Showkey

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Well how come its rated for 240V? Couldn't it be 6.5HP at 240?

Seems like it can operate at both voltages, certainly not 6.5HP @ 110..

Changing the voltage does not make any difference in the HP. It just changes the amperage draw.
Example :
240 volts at 15 amps equals 3600 watts
120 volts at 30 amps equals 3600 watts

Watts is power or the ability to do work.
Very rough "Ball park estimates" 3600 watts equals about 4-5 HP depending on power factors and motor efficiency etc


A true 10.5 cfm unit would be about 240 volts at 15 amps not likely able to run on 120 and certainly NOT 6.5 HP.
Again stop looking or fixating on HP........10.5 cfm is a good spec for many uses.
There are many new $400 compressors that are only 5 cfm.

I edited my earlier post $400 is not a bad price for a TRUE 10.5 cfm unit in good condition. New unit likely is $600-$800 ? Depending on brand and where it's made.
 
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MoonRise

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Well how come its rated for 240V? Couldn't it be 6.5HP at 240?

Seems like it can operate at both voltages, certainly not 6.5HP @ 110..

That unit is NOT 6.5 hp.

More like 2.x 'real world' horsepower.

And that unit is no real bargain at $400.

Because you can buy a brand new, 60 gallon compressor rated at 11.5 cfm @ 90 psi at HomeDepot.

For $449, right now.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-60-Gal-Stationary-Electric-Air-Compressor-C602H/205389936

10+ cfm @ 90 psi is not 'bad' per se, and you can certainly do a bunch of air-powered tool usage with that much compressed air.

But see my previous reply about air tools and how they are 'rated'. Figure out what air tool(s) you want to be able to use, and then get 'enough' air compressor to let you (reasonably) use said air tool(s).

Check physical stores and online places too. Tractor Supply, Lowes, Aircompressorsdirect.com, etc.

But that $400 used compressor is no real bargain IMNSHO.
 
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