Bevis
Well-known member
I hear that....but working by yourself, you just don't seem to get squat done.
5wndwcpe's new coop.
- Thread starter 5wndwcpe
- Start date
new to this board... saw this (it looks great) and had a few questions.. I am looking to create a 2 story garage (barn like looking structure) 36 X 44. wood shop on 2nd story...
Few questions (if you dont mind...):
It looks as though you do the following...
footings... then block.. then waterproofing coating called Tremproof 250 GC.
Then rigid foam...
1) Does foam come in different thickness and what do you use based on what?
2) Does the waterproof coating and this foam also get done to inside block wall?
back fill dirt... pour stone and level inside...
3)what is used? how many inches?
then vapor barrier Stego, 15mil. thick (Looks to be placed up side wall from the floor...
4) Does the vapor barrier go vertical the floor thickness and is cement floor to be
6.75" in your case (what should floor thickness be?)?
Is the floor thickness 6.75 minus floor foam thickness?
Then tape seams of vapor barrier...
Install Expanded polystyrene (EPS) - Saw this website for info
http://www.epsmolders.org/3-sheathing.html
5) Inside - What thickness EPS on floor did you use? how fastened? Tape joints?
The radiant tubing will be 6 loops @ 300' each of 1/2" PEX
6) How to determine number of loops and lengths? Distance tubing sits apart?
Any special things to do pattern wise?
wire supports that come in different heights which act to suspend the
rebar (and/or wwr) in the middle of the slab.
7) how to determine distance apart and height?
Then cement....
8)thickness?
quote -
Not a very good shot, but I ran the (6.75") eps across the opening and backed it up with a 2x6 on the outside.
9) 2x6 is just so cement dont blow it out during pour?
quote -
I added a 1.25" thick piece of foam to the top of this and had them finish the floor to this height. When the floor has cured, I'll remove that piece and the overhead doors will sit down into the pocket.
10) Does this create an "L" shape (side view) where the doors sits against?
Or does this create a "U" (square corners - side view that the door sits down into?
The "U" doesnt seem right, but I figured I ask...
Generic questions:
11) What is the source - hot water heater? size? Who/what pump is used?
12) what is an estimate of cost for this entire system?
13) operational costs?
14) any other questions I should ask?
15) your overall experience (good /bad) with this set up?
I don't mind you not answering if you dont mind my asking...
Few questions (if you dont mind...):
It looks as though you do the following...
footings... then block.. then waterproofing coating called Tremproof 250 GC.
Then rigid foam...
1) Does foam come in different thickness and what do you use based on what?
2) Does the waterproof coating and this foam also get done to inside block wall?
back fill dirt... pour stone and level inside...
3)what is used? how many inches?
then vapor barrier Stego, 15mil. thick (Looks to be placed up side wall from the floor...
4) Does the vapor barrier go vertical the floor thickness and is cement floor to be
6.75" in your case (what should floor thickness be?)?
Is the floor thickness 6.75 minus floor foam thickness?
Then tape seams of vapor barrier...
Install Expanded polystyrene (EPS) - Saw this website for info
http://www.epsmolders.org/3-sheathing.html
5) Inside - What thickness EPS on floor did you use? how fastened? Tape joints?
The radiant tubing will be 6 loops @ 300' each of 1/2" PEX
6) How to determine number of loops and lengths? Distance tubing sits apart?
Any special things to do pattern wise?
wire supports that come in different heights which act to suspend the
rebar (and/or wwr) in the middle of the slab.
7) how to determine distance apart and height?
Then cement....
8)thickness?
quote -
Not a very good shot, but I ran the (6.75") eps across the opening and backed it up with a 2x6 on the outside.
9) 2x6 is just so cement dont blow it out during pour?
quote -
I added a 1.25" thick piece of foam to the top of this and had them finish the floor to this height. When the floor has cured, I'll remove that piece and the overhead doors will sit down into the pocket.
10) Does this create an "L" shape (side view) where the doors sits against?
Or does this create a "U" (square corners - side view that the door sits down into?
The "U" doesnt seem right, but I figured I ask...
Generic questions:
11) What is the source - hot water heater? size? Who/what pump is used?
12) what is an estimate of cost for this entire system?
13) operational costs?
14) any other questions I should ask?
15) your overall experience (good /bad) with this set up?
I don't mind you not answering if you dont mind my asking...
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Thanks and welcome to the board. 
In response to your questions:
1) Yes, I used 2" to balance R value, availability and affordability.
2) The coating, no. The foam, yes.
3) #2 modified, 10" to 16" worth, placed in 6" lifts, compacted with a vibratory roller, then topped with 4" of #2B (clean stone) as per the twp..
4) The slab is 6" thick, though most people only go to 4". The vapor barrier runs up the block, behind the EPS, which creates a "bathtub" effect.
5) 2" dryfit for the floor. The edges are secured to the wall with Hilti fasteners and the resulting holes were backfilled with spray foam and trimmed flush.
6) Best bet is to get a hydronic heating design book. There are many factors that determine an efficient system, such as building insulation, area of the country, number of doors and windows etc. Here's the one I used :
http://zurn.com/images/pdf/ZPM02101.pdf
7) The method of placing the concrete will affect the amount and/or placement of the reinforcement. Pumping the mix will be easier on the wire than wheeling it. Think load distribution.
8) 6"
9) Yep
10) "L" shaped.
11) The system isn't finished yet, but the plans call for a Rinnai "on demand" type water heater and a medium head Grundfos pump. The cost comes in at $4000.00 or so including the EPS, which in itself was $1000.00
Overall, I'd say you're on the right track by doing the research first. Plenty of people just throw a system together. Do they work ? Sure they do. The question is do they work as well as they could have if more thought was put into the design. Also beware of some of these internet sights that want to sell your their "house brand" PEX. There is one sight out there that lists a 7/8" tubing. I can't imagine trying to work with that stuff. Personally, I think running more loops of a smaller tubing is a better way to go. Also, try to stick with the brand name stuff such as Watts or Zurn and be sure the fittings you use are compatible with the tubing.
Hope this helps.
Pete
In response to your questions:
1) Yes, I used 2" to balance R value, availability and affordability.
2) The coating, no. The foam, yes.
3) #2 modified, 10" to 16" worth, placed in 6" lifts, compacted with a vibratory roller, then topped with 4" of #2B (clean stone) as per the twp..
4) The slab is 6" thick, though most people only go to 4". The vapor barrier runs up the block, behind the EPS, which creates a "bathtub" effect.
5) 2" dryfit for the floor. The edges are secured to the wall with Hilti fasteners and the resulting holes were backfilled with spray foam and trimmed flush.
6) Best bet is to get a hydronic heating design book. There are many factors that determine an efficient system, such as building insulation, area of the country, number of doors and windows etc. Here's the one I used :
http://zurn.com/images/pdf/ZPM02101.pdf
7) The method of placing the concrete will affect the amount and/or placement of the reinforcement. Pumping the mix will be easier on the wire than wheeling it. Think load distribution.
8) 6"
9) Yep
10) "L" shaped.
11) The system isn't finished yet, but the plans call for a Rinnai "on demand" type water heater and a medium head Grundfos pump. The cost comes in at $4000.00 or so including the EPS, which in itself was $1000.00
Overall, I'd say you're on the right track by doing the research first. Plenty of people just throw a system together. Do they work ? Sure they do. The question is do they work as well as they could have if more thought was put into the design. Also beware of some of these internet sights that want to sell your their "house brand" PEX. There is one sight out there that lists a 7/8" tubing. I can't imagine trying to work with that stuff. Personally, I think running more loops of a smaller tubing is a better way to go. Also, try to stick with the brand name stuff such as Watts or Zurn and be sure the fittings you use are compatible with the tubing.
Hope this helps.
Pete
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WOW!!! I am new here and would like to say that is one heck of a build you have going there .I love all the detail about the floor heat as I am wanting that also.Also like to see you are a MOPAR man. I received a link to this site from the Moparts web board where I had posted about my potential build of a 40x60.I will have to bookmark your thread so I may refer to as a reference.By the way , you got any pics of those sweet 68 B-Bodies?Jonesy.
Thanks JONESY. If you have any questions about the progress (or lack thereof) of the build, just ask, I'd be happy to help. Oddly enough, I think I only have 1 or 2 pics of the fleet (none on this computer,sorry). In all honesty, the two convertibles are projects at this point and not much to look at. Hopefully I'll have the garage finished by January and be able to bring them home and get crackin' on the restos.
jocool1585
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 23, 2008
- Messages
- 142
Good lookin' drywall work!
e-tek
Well-known member
this is a massively cool projexct - u r very lucky! i'd love to b working in this one. looking forward to the decorating phase!
ProGun3400
Well-known member
Holy insulation. I know what you mean about the itching, just did a bunch myself. Did you sub out the drywall and taping or DIY it also? Everything looks top notch. I would be proud to call it mine.
Holy insulation. I know what you mean about the itching, just did a bunch myself. Did you sub out the drywall and taping or DIY it also? Everything looks top notch. I would be proud to call it mine.
I did subout the drywall and mudwork. Probably the best decision I've ever made.
TopherGreen
Member
I would have no problem calling that home. Super nice work man, very inspiring. I noticed vents in the ceiling, do you have heat and a/c or just heat? I would never leave if there was a/c too.
cyclopsblown34
Well-known member
Man, that shop looks killer!
wmonroe
Well-known member
Is the boiler gas or electric?
Everything looks awesome!!
Will
Everything looks awesome!!
Will
Omphaloskeptic
Well-known member
5WNDWCPE,
Congratulations on your well-built shop! Kudos to you! I too am looking forward to your posts as you put the finishing touches to the project.
What did you have to do about hillside/foundation drains; keeping the water from getting close to the block? Did you have to vent the voids adjacent to your skylights?
Where the heck is 'Radiator Springs' anyway? I grew up outside of Pittsburgh (Springdale), but I'm not familiar with your location. I come up with zilch when I Google/Maps your town.
Congratulations on your well-built shop! Kudos to you! I too am looking forward to your posts as you put the finishing touches to the project.
What did you have to do about hillside/foundation drains; keeping the water from getting close to the block? Did you have to vent the voids adjacent to your skylights?
Where the heck is 'Radiator Springs' anyway? I grew up outside of Pittsburgh (Springdale), but I'm not familiar with your location. I come up with zilch when I Google/Maps your town.
Thanks.
I used a rubberized coating on the foundation, topped with 1" eps and then an acrylic coating. There are footer drains all the way around so any water that does run down the wall doesn't stay around long.Not sure what you mean by "voids" adjacent to the skylites and Radiator Springs is the name of the town in the movie CARS. I live east of Reading, PA
Omphaloskeptic
Well-known member
Thanks.
Not sure what you mean by "voids" adjacent to the skylites and Radiator Springs is the name of the town in the movie CARS. I live east of Reading, PA
I was wondering if you had installed any perf pipe up the hillside to divert groundwater away from the block wall; kind of a 'belt and suspenders' approach to prevent water incursion.
In regard to my question about vents for the skylight voids, I mistakenly thought there would be boxed in areas around your trusses wherever you installed a skylight. My bad. Really enjoyed your build!
e-tek
Well-known member
This one deserved the ultimate kids kudo's: UNREAL BANANA-PEEL!!!
dipper
Well-known member
Excellent build 5wndwcpe! You have definitely done your homework and executing the plan. Your wall scheme is exactly like mine, gray/red/white. It takes a while working by yourself but keep up the good work!!
Foul
Well-known member
does copper normally need that many drains?
dan
dan
CBR9Seadoo
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 22, 2009
- Messages
- 52
Your garage is awesome. Is this done now? Do you have pictures how it looks done?
Tim
Silly rabbit, they're never done, but thanks for the kind words. I more or less dropped working on the inside right now and am concentrating on finishing around the outside (pouring the aprons, patching the driveway etc.) while the weather is still on my side.
I'll try to get some more recent shots up this weekend. Of course, as everyone will tell you, whatever size shop you build, it'll be too small in the end. I've got 4 cars and 1 motorcyle in there now and there ain't a whole lotta room left.
CBR9Seadoo
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 22, 2009
- Messages
- 52
Great, look forward to more pics. Can you snap some of where you garage floor meets your driveway? They pics and description didn't make sense. I would like to see the finished pour.
I am hoping to start my 24' x 48' build next week. Waiting on a variance from the township I live in to go over 1500 sqft (already have a 30x40 this it is being attached to.
A few Questions:
Where did you get your bridges for under your cement?
What size did you use?
Did you run rebar both directions and then put mesh on top of it?
Great work.
I am hoping to start my 24' x 48' build next week. Waiting on a variance from the township I live in to go over 1500 sqft (already have a 30x40 this it is being attached to.
A few Questions:
Where did you get your bridges for under your cement?
What size did you use?
Did you run rebar both directions and then put mesh on top of it?
Great work.
Hey Tim,
See post #66 of this thread for more on the slab bolsters. I believe they were 2.5" high and yes, I ran the re-bar both ways on 12" centers with the wwr on top.
The pic on the left shows the bulkhead I made prior to the floor pour. Although it's hard to see, there's a drop of 1.5" from the finished floor (inside) to the top edge of the foam insulation, which is technically outside. This is what the overhead door sits on. From that point, the aprons (yet to be poured) will extend out about a foot to where the blacktop will join up. I'm on the side of a mountain and get a pretty stiff westerly wind. I did it this way so the the sealing edge of the door is actually a little below the floor and can't get rain, leaves and small barnyard animals blown under the threshold.
See post #66 of this thread for more on the slab bolsters. I believe they were 2.5" high and yes, I ran the re-bar both ways on 12" centers with the wwr on top.
The pic on the left shows the bulkhead I made prior to the floor pour. Although it's hard to see, there's a drop of 1.5" from the finished floor (inside) to the top edge of the foam insulation, which is technically outside. This is what the overhead door sits on. From that point, the aprons (yet to be poured) will extend out about a foot to where the blacktop will join up. I'm on the side of a mountain and get a pretty stiff westerly wind. I did it this way so the the sealing edge of the door is actually a little below the floor and can't get rain, leaves and small barnyard animals blown under the threshold.
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I've neglected to post many interior pics because the place is a bit of a mess yet. I have the 2x4 fixtures for the drop ceiling but am going to convert them to T8's before I install them. I spent most of the summer working on the outside and just recently finished the breezeway pavers. Next up are the concrete aprons, patching up the blacktop and digging the ditch for the gas line. After that, the weather should be sufficiently ****** to move back inside and finish up the interior.
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