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6/3 with Ground

D45

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Electric service was recently upgraded at a campground where I have a camper

The electric hook up box was moved and I now need to run wire for the camper

I'm hoping to reuse and pull the current 6/3 cable from its current position

I need to get some liquid tight or pvc and run the 6/3 inside for a short run

What size ID will I need for the 6/3 (with ground) to fit?

Any tips for pulling and removing the current 6/3 wire from inside pvc that is buried? I'm hoping to salvage alot and not have to buy any since it's crazy expensive
 
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D45

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The current 6/3 wire was probably ran 65 feet to the old electric box

The new box was moved closer, probably around 45 feet away

Nothing is inside the camper it's ran the normal way, twist lock plug on one end with a 50amp plug on the other
 
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D45

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Well.......here's what how the round jacket is marked:

Colonial Flex
VL Operator 5
600V 6/3 w/ Ground
Type NM-B

It's been installed on the camper for the past 7 years, since the camper and lot were purchased

I never really looked at the wiring and never had to mess with it, until now......
 

RPH

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Outdoors- Critical Difference. The most crucial difference between UF and NM-B is that the latter is prohibited for outdoor use. Though UF and NM-B have many things in common, NM-B wire can quickly rot if mistakenly used outside because it does not have the extra-protection of UF-B.
 
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D45

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Well hmmmm

I know the camper is 41' long

The outlet box is about 10 feet away
 

wyliesdiesels

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Well.......here's what how the round jacket is marked:

Colonial Flex
VL Operator 5
600V 6/3 w/ Ground
Type NM-B

It's been installed on the camper for the past 7 years, since the camper and lot were purchased

I never really looked at the wiring and never had to mess with it, until now......
whoever used that had no clue what they were doing. its the wrong wire.
 
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D45

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So will UF-B be acceptable to use?

I don't want to buy a pre-made cord because I don't think 50 feet will be enough and 100 foot will be $400
 

PCustoms

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So will UF-B be acceptable to use?

I don't want to buy a pre-made cord because I don't think 50 feet will be enough and 100 foot will be $400

Why do you need to run your own cable from camper to the pedestal? Is this a seasonal / semi-permanent setup?

Can you post some pics?

Usually there is a cord from the RV to the pedestal/box and that's it.
 
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D45

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Permanent setup. Hasn't moved in 7-8 years

Yes, I need yo run power from the travel trailer to the outlet box that was recently upgraded and moved
 

PCustoms

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Permanent setup. Hasn't moved in 7-8 years

Yes, I need yo run power from the travel trailer to the outlet box that was recently upgraded and moved
Seems like a weird setup, not sure what applies...

For a fixed building, UF-b, mhf or conduit and thwn/xhhw-2 buried 24" deep is typically the norm. Theres some shallower options depending on the specifocs (i.e. conduit, GFCI etc.). Direct bury needs conduit above ground.

How is this attached at the camper?

A pic of the outlet box and the camper side would be helpful....
 
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D45

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It still uses the factory twist lock plug and a 50amp plug for at the pedestal outlet box

Nothing is hardwired
 

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mike93lx

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Nm-b into a plug end is a great sign of shoddy work

Fresh nm-b in the camper from the panel to a junction box nearest the pedestal. Then a cord from there to the pedestal.
 

PCustoms

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It still uses the factory twist lock plug and a 50amp plug for at the pedestal outlet box

Nothing is hardwired
This was buried?

Looks like a standard travel trailer setup...

Why not use a standard RV hookup cable?
 
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D45

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Yes the current 6/3 was plugged into the back of the camper with a plug and ran underneath the camper frame about 20 feet. It then entered the ground inside pvc and ran underground for about 30 feet to the old original pedestal electric outlets
 

The Cobbler

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Not surprising the electrical is not up to code. Campgrounds were always usually family owned, Harry did the work around the property , and whatever was cheapest was what was used to get the job done. I'm not at all surprised here.
 
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D45

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Why not use a standard RV hookup cable?

That'd definitely an option now to use a standard rv cable

Previously it would have been a 100" standard rv cable ran ontop of the grass and through a fence, less than desirable

I'll measure and consider if a standard rv cable in a 50' length will be enough, it will be very close

A 100' length of standard rv cable will be $400 and way too long
 
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D45

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6/3 with a ground for UF-B is like $4.50 a foot

I could reuse both plug ends?
 
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D45

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Ah OK thanks

I'm going to look into bulk wiring if I can get it around 60 foot
 

mike93lx

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Do I need 6/3 or would 8/3 work?
What is it feeding? 120v only or is it 120/240?

Cables like nm-b and uf-b don't include the uninsulated ground in the conductor count, so 6/3 nm-b is two hots, a neutral plus an uninsulated ground. On cordage, like soow, 6/3 is just three insulated conductors (hot, neutral and ground). So three conductor soow can only do 120v or 240v but not 120/240

If this is a 50a 120/240 circuit, you will need 6/4.
 

wyliesdiesels

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Yes the current 6/3 was plugged into the back of the camper with a plug and ran underneath the camper frame about 20 feet. It then entered the ground inside pvc and ran underground for about 30 feet to the old original pedestal electric outlets
yeah thats not kosher at all.

so you should run cordage then...
 
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D45

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I found 8/4 in a 100 foot length for $150

Says 600V SEOOW Water Resistant

Not sure if this is even an option to consider
 
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D45

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I also wonder if the the sized 6/3 with ground wire was used because the length of the run was so long?

I'm hesitant to step down to 8G
 
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