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'78 F350 Dually Project

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RivennHewn

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I grew up in Alaska. It's taken me years to acclimate to living in a warmer climate.

If it gets up over 90, I better be in the water. Working in the heat is out of the question.


The lights aren't too bright, but should just be enough to see what i'm doing on the side of the road in the dark of the night.

As far as the boat, I haven't been this excited in years!
 
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Strouty

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Mar 21, 2010
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I worked for an entire summer on top of Mount Washington building a tower, it was mid fifties to low 60s almost the entire time. I loved it, you could wear a sweatshirt all day while working your **** off and never really break a sweat. At night we would head down to the valley and it would be in the 90s.
 
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RivennHewn

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I worked for an entire summer on top of Mount Washington building a tower, it was mid fifties to low 60s almost the entire time. I loved it, you could wear a sweatshirt all day while working your **** off and never really break a sweat. At night we would head down to the valley and it would be in the 90s.

If it gets over 85, I better be here:
 

Xti04

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Nov 11, 2016
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I just read 65 pages about this damn truck! Cool project bud makes me want to pull my 66 into the garage and get started on it!
 
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RivennHewn

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Thanks guys.

I did get a chance to go AWOL for a bit.

Spent a nice long vacation up in Alaska, about 40 miles from nowhere.




Had some really nice weather, but some days were a little foggy.

Caught our fair share of salmon and halibut.


AGFU

pAMa



Got back home, and faced the hell to pay for taking time off:(


Xti04,
Time to start your own thread?? Post up pics of the '66

Strouty,
Been taking every chance to get the new boat wet. Salmon are just now starting to come in Puget Sound.

NORDFORD,
Hoping to get back to the body work on the old truck soon. Still looking for a new driver's side door.
 
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RivennHewn

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Looking to replace my cracked, ugly, ****** steering wheel.

Also wanted to trouble shoot the non-functioning horn.

So, as you can see in the pic, there is a copper spring contact that keeps constant contact with the wheel. Just above it (in the pic) there is a spot for a second spring contact point.

Am I missing a contact, or do I just need the one?

iOdp
 

rattle_snake

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Chandler, AZ
Not sure if two contacts are needed, but you can test to find out a few ways.

1) put a spring from a ball point pen in the 2nd hole and test with wheel.
2) Ground out the existing one and check that horn relay closes or at least the trigger to it goes to GND. should be able to hear it click from cab.

If neither
3) trigger (GND) the horn relay itself and see if +12V goes to horn(s)

4) test horn(s) with 12V and determine if they make any noise.
 
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larry_g

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oregon
Looking to replace my cracked, ugly, ****** steering wheel.

Also wanted to trouble shoot the non-functioning horn.

So, as you can see in the pic, there is a copper spring contact that keeps constant contact with the wheel. Just above it (in the pic) there is a spot for a second spring contact point.

Am I missing a contact, or do I just need the one?

iOdp

Don't have positive answer, but suggest that you look at the back of the steering wheel and see if you have one or two rings that contact the button contacts. Also may try a jumper wire across the two points.

lg
no neat sig line
 
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RivennHewn

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Thanks for the input.

I did find a little more info on it, and it appears for my application it only needs the one.

Now I need to test the relay/wiring.

Also need to find a replacement steering wheel. Shocking how much they want for them. The wheel and the rubber insert can cost up to $450 for a new one.

I had a company quote me $800 to repair the one I have.

I could get an aftermarket wheel, but I hate the way they look.
 

bluebolt

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Benton LA
Thanks for the input.

I did find a little more info on it, and it appears for my application it only needs the one.

Now I need to test the relay/wiring.

Also need to find a replacement steering wheel. Shocking how much they want for them. The wheel and the rubber insert can cost up to $450 for a new one.

I had a company quote me $800 to repair the one I have.

I could get an aftermarket wheel, but I hate the way they look.


Guess I need to quit throwing out the steering wheels LOL. Pictures of your steering wheel and the pad? I can see what I have in my Ford truck parts stash.
 

Toothaker

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Nov 25, 2016
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Wichita, Kansas
Search on Youtube for steering wheel repair. There are more than one video of someone grinding out the cracked portions, filling the gaps and then painting them. At least take a look at what's involved, so you can decide if it a valid option for you.
 

Stuart in MN

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The LMC truck website has some pretty good exploded views of the steering column that may help for figuring out the horn contacts. http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/fc/search.aspx?searchTerms=steering&rURL=/icatalog/fc/full.aspx

Search on Youtube for steering wheel repair. There are more than one video of someone grinding out the cracked portions, filling the gaps and then painting them. At least take a look at what's involved, so you can decide if it a valid option for you.

As for the wheel itself, I think in 1978 they were not a hard plastic like earlier trucks, where you can grind out the cracks and fill them with hard epoxy (I successfully fixed the wheel in my 1966 F-100 with PC-7 epoxy.) I see LMC has new steering wheels for up to 1977 in their catalog, I'm not sure what changed in 1978.
 

C_F

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Jan 21, 2005
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Utah...SNOW BLOWS!
Regarding your non-functioning horn, two quick things come to mind that you may want to check. First, make sure the center shaft in your column has a good ground. If not, make it so. :D
Second, make sure when your steering wheel is on, that there is a minimal gap (around an 1/8th of an inch) between the bottom of the wheel & the column housing. If there is a larger gap, the copper contact may not be touching the ring on the wheel. To fix a large gap, loosen the clamp on the center shaft on the firewall side, push the steering wheel down (or push the shaft downward at the firewall side), push the clamp up tight against the bearing & re-tighten. Double check for a small gap under the steering wheel, and that it's not so tight that it now hangs up on something.

If those both check out, then it's something else, of course. :)
 

sberry

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Jun 18, 2005
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Brethren, Michigan
Considering the cost of a new truck in this class this is not a bad plan. I have worked on some Fords, did reman to work trucks. What is cool in cases is not to have to rebuild rust.
They ain't a new truck. They are ok for utility, doesn't eat much when not being used. A warm or moderate climate is a factor as is the duty cycle but dump 3 large in new parts, couple months real work and a guy has something he might be able to use a long time.
 

sberry

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Jun 18, 2005
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Brethren, Michigan
I didn't fix the engine, ******, did most every piece, might have replaced windshield. Did cab work, brakes, shocks, helpers, wheel brgs, belts, hoses, brake lines, blasted and paint cab back frame, any ****** grommets.
Used it guite little for 10 years. Fixed up the little orange one mostly and drove it 2 seasons while I was rebuilding another 250 4/4.
I put some springs and a fresh 300 in the orange one. It was a 100 and sprung light, smooth on ruff backroads. The blue one I build a bed for, had dual fuel tanks. Someone before me ohaul the engine and RV cam it. Had a big 2 barrel, decent gears and it was really fast.
Rivers 1 ton is heavy, tires will last a long time, has power, I like the way he is fixing and painting it up. Agree, with that truck some imperfection or fading won't hurt and can always come back and paint it. No one notices as long as it doesn't have big holes and rust.
 

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RivennHewn

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Appreciate the input.

It really helps keep this project going.

I've looked at the new wheels in LMC/ Bronco Graveyard/ Dennis Carpenter/ Mac's.

I'll probably end up with a new one, but I'll keep looking for a deal on a used one for now. I do kinda like the idea of re-doing the one I got.

C_F, Thanks for the info on the wheel/ clearance for the contact. I wouldn't have thought to look.

sberry, a couple of good looking work trucks. I figure I'll have this one for the rest of my driving days. Probably couldn't find a buyer for it anyway:bounce:

Thanks again everybody.
 
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RivennHewn

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I've been using the old Ford a bit more lately, trading days with the daily driver.

Starting to look like a mobile office.

I tend to spend a fair amount of time working out of my truck, and adding an inverter to run my laptop helps.

kVtd
 

Xti04

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Nov 11, 2016
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Here's my future project/yard art/ wifes least favorite thing about our house at the current moment 66 f 100 short bed. This was a meter reading truck from our local power company back in the day.

My plan is crown Victoria front suspension 4 link and new engine /trans as the 6 cylinder is toast. Nothing gonna happen on this one until I finish nursing school next year though.
 
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RivennHewn

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Oh, hell ya!

That’ll do.

I had to wait for years before I could start mine.

Hard to put the time, the space, and the money together all at the same time:)
 
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RivennHewn

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Back at it.

Finally picked up a viable replacement door for the drivers side!!!!

It has some minor rust, and a few holes from the old mirrors and trim that will need patched, but over all fairly straight and clean. Not bad for $50. Has clean glass and the handles / latch are all good.

9rlx


I also broke down and bought a new steering wheel.

kxBD


Seems the PO removed the horn relay, and cut some wires. Been trying to figure out how re-do the wiring.

Got to have a horn that works!
 
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RivennHewn

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Really digging this truck :beer: Love that interior

Thank you. It's coming along.

As soon as I get this door prepped, it's just about ready for paint. Then I can put the interior door panels in, and all the door seals.

Really looking forward to being done with the paint and interior :)

Then it will be onto some oil leaks and a new exhaust.

Also need to tighten up the steering. Anybody add a front end sway bar to one of these old trucks?
 
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