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8 foot walls vs 9 ft

Ottawadon

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May 4, 2011
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Hey guys, newbie here. I'm getting quotes to have my very first garage built. I'm a 50 year old that due to circumstances has never had the joy of retreating to my own garage, but that's about to change.

I'm getting quotes to build a 30 x 30 2-car garage which includes a small shop. My contractor asked if I wanted 8 or 9 feet walls but was very vague on the advantages of the difference. Can anyone help me with this question? How is 9 feet better? I did try searching the forum but I'm afraid it was overwhelming for me.

Btw, what a fantastic forum here, I've been reading for days but it will take months to get through all the gems offered. You folks have elevated garage ownership to an art form. Wish I could have done this 30 years ago.
Don
 
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regguy1

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Ohio Auto

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It all depends what you're going to use the space for. If you need the extra height go with the 9 foot.

If you're not going to have a lift nor need extra room for storeage I would go with 8 foot. It will keep construction costs down and be a little easier on the wallet to heat.
 

Bear

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Depends on your plans for use - if your thinking major vechicle repair/maint. and considering a "Lift" most folks will recomend a 12' wall. I went with 14' + get the RV in and in the wood shop area went with 9' because I did not want to "wack" the ceiling with 8' goods.
 

Jack Olsen

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Taller gives you more room for storage -- and a lift. But weigh the dollars versus the benefit. It depends on what you want to use the place for.
 

Mr.N

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Taller is better.
I'd expect a different answer from someone living in the dakota's

Only reason to go shorter (other than cash) is to keep the heat down low.
I know a guy who built a 12' high ceiling in MN, he was never warm in the winter.
 

DCarr

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Taller isnt alwats better. I had 8' walls for years and didnt need any more than that. When I built my shop I ended up with 13' walls since I had planned on putting a lift in it.

I have since changed my mind and have no intention of getting a lift, so 10' walls would've made it easier to handle planks of lumber and seriously .... 8' would've been all I really had to have.

It all depends on what you plan on doing with it.
 

JohnK007

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If in addition to being a gear head you also do woodworking 9 foot walls will allow you to move plywood sheets and boards more easily. I vote for 9 foot if you can swing it ($).
 

Addrock

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I have 9', I could use 10', but 9 is ok. I don't have a lift, but 9' does allow 8' overhead door installation, I Highly suggest 8' door(s).
 

Keith_MN

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I was going to say what Addrock said. If you are not planning on a lift, consider how high the door opening needs to be to get the largest size vehicle you want to get in there.
 

Falcon67

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The cost should be real close because 8', 9' and 10' studs are very close in price. I was thinking about a 4 post, but I'll probably end up with a MaxJax. Still debating 8' or 9' for mine. If you are a pack rat like many of us, 9' would give you a good 2' of shelf storage height along any particular wall.
 

Charles (in GA)

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Taller is better. If you think you might ever want to use a car lift, a portable gantry crane or A frame, don't want to go wacking light fixtures every time you flip a piece of plywood or 2x4 over, or just simply don't want to feel claustrophobic, go anywhere from 10 ft up.

Charles
 

holdover

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Mine is 40 X 60 with 10' 2X6 walls. half is regular truss and the rear half is sissor truss, giving 15'4" at the center peak inside. tall enough to have two 4 posts, one on the wall one in the center. The roof pitch is 5/12 outside, 3/12 inside. The trusses were engineered for the storm loading here in the mountains of SW VA. Everything is insulated with 6" fiberglass, warm in winter, cool in summer. I have a 9' tall garage door which allows me to pull in my tractor with roll bar with no problem. build it for everything you might do in the future.
 

Daniel Dudley

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I can't get my truck in a 7 foot door. I would never go lower than a 9 foot ceiling these days.
 

Thruxton

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JohnK007 is spot on- if you work with plywood 8 foot walls are a problem, I'm redoing my shop right now and just finished putting in rafters at 9'3", the old setup was <8. It's already much better.
 

darkk

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My thoughts are always go as big/high (be reasonable here) as you can afford. You can always ignore the extra space, but it is almost impossible to add if you need it. You will be surprised at how fast it fills up. And trust me, there will come a day when you sit back and look at it and say, why the hell didn't I go just a bit bigger? For heating, always use ceiling fans to move the air/heat around so it's comfortable. I'm not even finished yet and wish I went bigger already...30x30x13 high
 
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xrdad

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As high as you can go!

You can always use the extra height for storage. 8' will be too low to handle lumber well and you'll have much less than 8' after your roll up door is installed (hangers, rails and door when open).

In my last garage, I switched out the conventional o/h door rails and made them climb to the 12' ceiling. The contractor had originally built the door tracks at the door height (7') and when I would work with the door open, I essentially had 7' 'ceilings' because of it!
 
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dirttracker18

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Yup higher is better,

Potential lifts, larger door (gotta have a bigger door these days) flipping wood around without smashing your lights.

Many advantages.

I know lots of guys with high ceilings (myself included at 15 in the center, 12 at the walls) and none have heating issues where it is cold. We also live in northern Ontario. If it is cold you undersized your heating system. And yes, put in ceiling fans, great in the winter or summer.

You could consider what I did and use scissor trusses to get even more height inthe center without having to go higher with the walls. However, 9 foot minimum to get the 8 foot door.
 

Milton Shaw

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The cost between 8,9 or 10 foot is the same. Go to the 10 foot since drywall comes in 10 ft, with 9 foot walls you are cutting one foot off each sheet. Always go in sizes of drywall, plywood, osb etc. On the outside its would just be two more pieces of siding so the cost should be about the same for 9 or 10 foot. You will always wish you had gone higher two years down the road.
 

csp

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You can get 4.5' wide and/or 9' long drywall easily from drywall suppliers (which I've found are cheaper than the big box stores).

Plywood/OSB however, comes in 4x8 or 4x10 sheets. You might as well go 10' if you're considering 9' from a materials needed standpoint. You'll also have a smaller trash pile.
 
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ket-tek

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Like already mentioned here, the cost difference is minimal between 8 and 9 ft.. As is the heating difference.

I prefer tall as allowed by the county/or as tall as you can afford. But just 9' is worth it. You can stand up/flip over 8ft lumber without hitting the lighting or ceiling, you can install an 8' tall garage door instead of the standard spec home 7' size.. So you can pull full size trucks, suv's, or vans that usually won't clear a 7'..
 

Falcon67

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The cost between 8,9 or 10 foot is the same. Go to the 10 foot since drywall comes in 10 ft, with 9 foot walls you are cutting one foot off each sheet. Always go in sizes of drywall, plywood, osb etc. On the outside its would just be two more pieces of siding so the cost should be about the same for 9 or 10 foot. You will always wish you had gone higher two years down the road.

Cost is not the same - I figure around $700 on the building shell - 24 x 38. Studs = yes. Drywall = no, siding much more depending on your choice of siding and whether 10' sections are available or special order. Most homes here with 10' wall sections are brick, so there is minimal or no 4 x 10' vertical siding available. Drywall runs about $2 more per sheet. Lap siding runs WAY more than sheet and 2' more up with wall with 8' exposure gets you 4 more rows.

So it still depends on your budget. I'm looking now at 9' studs with rafter lengths that I can trim and block to use 8' siding.
 

ibedayank

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I'd expect a different answer from someone living in the dakota's

Only reason to go shorter (other than cash) is to keep the heat down low.
I know a guy who built a 12' high ceiling in MN, he was never warm in the winter.

this is where infloor heating rules supreme
you dont have to try and heat the floor because its already warm
 

rburke65

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Holdover....do you mean the front 20' of your garage is regular truss and the rear 20' is the scissor truss? Thanks.
 

Jagman

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I opted for 10' ceilings on my about to be constructed new garage. I intend to install a 4-post lift to accommodate working and storing a Jag E-Type and Porsche 911. In the non-lift area, I will install loft storage to best utilize the otherwise unused ceiling height. This might be of interest to you in considering the added ceiling height.

John D
 

MN BIANCHI

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How does that saying go: Go Big or Go Home?

The taller the better. I built the low portion of my building with 12 ft side walls. The tall portion is built with 16 ft side walls that permit 14 ft doors.

DSC01895Medium.jpg
 

NUTTSGT

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I'd go with 10' walls, allows for the taller overhead doors, like others have said. if you plan on using flourescent lights, it should light better with 10' ceilings over the 8' or 9' ceilings.
 

oldgoat

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I went with 9ft walls since I also do some woodworking. Kind of depends on what you want to do in it. You can get 9ft sheetrock also at a drywall supply house. On mine they use regular 8ft studs but they use the spliced for 9ft walls. They like them because they are a lot straighter than 8ft studs.
 

e-tek

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After years on here talking up my 12 foot walls, I'm thinking now that if I did it again I'd go lower. I'm thinking MUCH lower.....like 6 feet. No REALLY - Here me out!! It'd cut the heat bils in HALF! I'd need way fewer lights too. I mean really - how many cars are taller than 5 feet anyways?
 

Brad1234

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I thought about 10' but went with 12' & don't regret it. It's nice to be able to mount the heater, lights, ceiling fans, etc. high enough that it's out of the way. I also highly recommend high lift door tracks & jack shaft openers to reduce whats covering the ceiling. To get the 12' walls I had the foundation poured 2 ' above the floor & then the studded walls only had to be 10". Made for a little stiffer wall & since I wash my vehicles in the garage I don't have to worry about any water damage.
 

brownbagg

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dont forget all the things that bee hanging down, lights, ceiling fans, that going eat up your eight feet height. My lift needs every bit of 12'6 to get the toyota truck so I can walk under it, I am only 5'5
 

Stuart in MN

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I'm thinking MUCH lower.....like 6 feet.

I"m 6'1" so that wouldn't work very well for me. :)

For the original poster, higher is generally better but it depends on your budget, what kind of vehicles you have, and any local building codes that may restrict maximum height of the garage. In my case, city codes limited how tall the garage could be but I was able to use 8' studs, along with a course of block around the bottom, so including the lower and upper plates it all added up to a ceiling height around 9'3".
 
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