Above 1200 Sq/FT 86's 20HP shop
- Thread starter 86turbodsl
- Start date
Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
OP
86turbodsl
Well-known member
Let me know. Its a sweet welder. The 250 has the nicest arc ive personally seen, it has the goldstar rectifier. Very smooth.
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OP
86turbodsl
Well-known member
Trying out the new 330 now. Good grief. I have to be careful not to put a hole in my welding table. Its ridiculously overpowered. In a good way... 
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86turbodsl
Well-known member
Its been a while, but i did get some work completed this vacation. Prepped the eaves with insulation and vent chutes.
Hung more lights and wired them up.
And now i can actually see how much **** i have to go through.
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Hung more lights and wired them up.
And now i can actually see how much **** i have to go through.
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Strouty
Well-known member
Looking really good!
jbmatth
Well-known member
Darn, the pics are blocked when i click on the link at work.
JB
JB
OP
86turbodsl
Well-known member
Sorry! I can't host myself at the moment.
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OP
86turbodsl
Well-known member
Had a decently busy weekend, long holiday, due to the MLK holiday. First of all, i sold my old metal halide lights, to another engineer, building a pole barn like me needing quick lights. Nice guy. Then i took two loads of junk/drywall to the dump. The drywall was from my old man cave, which i no longer need, I need the storage space more. So after 15 years, the walls are coming down.
Some damage to the insulation i had on the outside wall. The old construction method of plastic sheeting and foam behind is not viable in a mouse environment in my opinion. It becomes like candy to them. We've seen this in other areas of the shop before. Replacing all with cellulose and fiberglass with an osb shield to keep off the steel.
I took all the fiberglass insulation into the house and put it up in the basement already. That will allow me to finish drywalling the basement. The walls of the mancave will become the rest of the wall supports i need on the shop, the floor joists will become pallet rack material, and the 3/4 plywood flooring will be used for shop organizers and shop buildout. Recycling gives me a big leg up on getting this done. Freeing up the 400 sq ft will allow me to move the Fairlanes and get the woodshop put up. And that will speed up the rest of the shop buildout and get my mrs the kitchen remodel she's wanting.
Next on the list is to put up 2 more sheets of steel above the mezzanine, then move the car parts to the other side, finish the rest of the steel above the mezz, then take the mezz down. With it warm this week and weekend, i'll make a big push to get that done before more nasty weather moves in and i can move into the basement for drywall duty.
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Some damage to the insulation i had on the outside wall. The old construction method of plastic sheeting and foam behind is not viable in a mouse environment in my opinion. It becomes like candy to them. We've seen this in other areas of the shop before. Replacing all with cellulose and fiberglass with an osb shield to keep off the steel.
I took all the fiberglass insulation into the house and put it up in the basement already. That will allow me to finish drywalling the basement. The walls of the mancave will become the rest of the wall supports i need on the shop, the floor joists will become pallet rack material, and the 3/4 plywood flooring will be used for shop organizers and shop buildout. Recycling gives me a big leg up on getting this done. Freeing up the 400 sq ft will allow me to move the Fairlanes and get the woodshop put up. And that will speed up the rest of the shop buildout and get my mrs the kitchen remodel she's wanting.
Next on the list is to put up 2 more sheets of steel above the mezzanine, then move the car parts to the other side, finish the rest of the steel above the mezz, then take the mezz down. With it warm this week and weekend, i'll make a big push to get that done before more nasty weather moves in and i can move into the basement for drywall duty.
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OldSoldier
Well-known member
The dominoes are falling now!
OP
86turbodsl
Well-known member
I sure hope so! It's been7 a struggle the last while, taking care of the family is job #1!
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Growlertdi
Well-known member
you are doing a nice job on your shed. I have a smaller 28x 32 poole barn and like the way yours looks with the white steel on the ceiling, I just may do that myself sometime.
I read that you traveled to do a TDI timing belt, and wonder if you are on TDIClub as well?
I go by Growler on there.
Look forward to the updates!
I read that you traveled to do a TDI timing belt, and wonder if you are on TDIClub as well?
I go by Growler on there.
Look forward to the updates!
OP
86turbodsl
Well-known member
Growler, thanks. It's coming along very slowly. I am on many forums as 86turbodsl. So far, not run into anyone else using that handle. I don't currently drive a TDI, but still have my old Golf, and maybe someday will swap that into my development Audi. I have lots of other stuff in front of that project though!
Thanks for stopping by.
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Thanks for stopping by.
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86turbodsl
Well-known member
Got the sheet steel pile cleaned off last night, washed and cut 2 panels and hauled into the mezz to hang tonight. Hopefully i can get home at a decent hour and hang them both. Then i need to move a lot of car parts and start hanging more steel. I probably can hang 4-6 per night so i might be 3/4 done with steel by saturday morning. Then i just have to break and get the floor pulled up on the mezz. The good news is as the floor gets pulled up, i can pull floor joists and put them straight onto the pallet racking. I clearly have enough room on the pallet rack to store almost everything on the floor in the racks, so i think if i can get the mezz pulled down, like OldSoldier stated, them dominos will be falling pretty fast!
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86turbodsl
Well-known member
And voila! Got the 2 cut sheets put up.
Now i need to clear the space where the parts are, and then put up 6 more uncut sheets.
After that, the mezz comes down!
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Now i need to clear the space where the parts are, and then put up 6 more uncut sheets.
After that, the mezz comes down!
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OP
86turbodsl
Well-known member
Finally got the last of the sheets over the mezzanine up with some squawking about the cold from my helper. He did put in about an hour though.
Did take a break on friday and played hookie from work to go fetch this:
Its a miller cp300 3ph welder, which i will do a haas-kamp conversion on. Came with a s52e feeder and running gear.
My old compakomatic is for sale. Any garage journal member who wants it though, can have it for free. Millermatic feeder not included. You will have to provide your own. Pm me if wanted.
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Did take a break on friday and played hookie from work to go fetch this:
Its a miller cp300 3ph welder, which i will do a haas-kamp conversion on. Came with a s52e feeder and running gear.
My old compakomatic is for sale. Any garage journal member who wants it though, can have it for free. Millermatic feeder not included. You will have to provide your own. Pm me if wanted.
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OP
86turbodsl
Well-known member
So i took advantage of the warm weather last night to tear into the new welder. I need it to be up and running soon so i can complete some jobs it's more suited to. Started by pulling the side and top covers.
You can see the terminal strip on the back of the machine under the back cover flap. Too hard to work on, so i continued by stripping the back of the machine.
Then remove the fan and diode bridge.
Now i can see the terminal strip and really work on it easily. The CP300 conversion for this model is not really that well documented on the web, so i'll do that here. The CP200, a 200amp welder is the original candidate converted by Dave Kamp and Peter Haas on practical machinist. The circuit diagram is the same as this model, with differences in component placement.
I started by removing the #8 jumpers from the three primary coils by removing them from the brass studs rather than cutting them. This conversion will be reversible.
These are the heavier wires shown in this picture.
My capacitors are in, i purchased 4 60mf motor run caps. Placement in this machine will be the hard part. It's very tight in this model, not much room to add big motor caps. I'll also be hosing out this machine to get the dirt out, since it's quite dirty inside, but i'll wait until i verify all connections and operation before doing so. It might be a good time to media blast and paint or powder the sheetmetal, but i'll have to verify funds before i go that far. More later.
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You can see the terminal strip on the back of the machine under the back cover flap. Too hard to work on, so i continued by stripping the back of the machine.
Then remove the fan and diode bridge.
Now i can see the terminal strip and really work on it easily. The CP300 conversion for this model is not really that well documented on the web, so i'll do that here. The CP200, a 200amp welder is the original candidate converted by Dave Kamp and Peter Haas on practical machinist. The circuit diagram is the same as this model, with differences in component placement.
I started by removing the #8 jumpers from the three primary coils by removing them from the brass studs rather than cutting them. This conversion will be reversible.
These are the heavier wires shown in this picture.
My capacitors are in, i purchased 4 60mf motor run caps. Placement in this machine will be the hard part. It's very tight in this model, not much room to add big motor caps. I'll also be hosing out this machine to get the dirt out, since it's quite dirty inside, but i'll wait until i verify all connections and operation before doing so. It might be a good time to media blast and paint or powder the sheetmetal, but i'll have to verify funds before i go that far. More later.
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rpenterics
Well-known member
Not to be a pain, because I really enjoy reading your posts, but is there a reason you're not embedding your images? It makes it a whole lot easier on the reader....all you need to use are them Image codes before and after each url
This:
![url]](http://[url]http://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/683/kXKVQE.jpg[/url])
without the extra spaces:
This:
without the extra spaces:
OP
86turbodsl
Well-known member
I had to move to a different host, and they provide an app i guess that doesnt do that. Ill see what i can do.
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86turbodsl
Well-known member
I edited this morning's post with the img tag. does that help? i can't tell, i see pictures using both methods.
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OldSoldier
Well-known member
Doing what you did worked for me.
OP
86turbodsl
Well-known member
Thanks Old, anyone else see any problems?
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rpenterics
Well-known member
looks good to me 
OP
86turbodsl
Well-known member
Ok, i'll go edit the old ones. Thanks.
rusty1
Well-known member
Wow,...I thot I had a mess,...never saw anybody put up a building and tear it back apart so many times,..but looks like you are gaining on it,...good luck.
OP
86turbodsl
Well-known member
So last night, i worked on the conversion again, the following picture shows the wiring of the three phases. The line input is at the bottom, in a row of three, and the lines go up to the power switch then right back to the top row in 3 banks of 4 lines.
So the first thing i did was eliminate the 3rd phase wires from both below and above. Then i moved the 2nd phase wire to the other end of the coil on the leftmost bank. The jumpers were installed on the 460v position, which gives 240v across the entire transformer coil on the left most coil bank. I'll use jumpers to invert the rightmost coil per haas-kamp and then jumpers to the capacitors for the center coil. Heres where i left it last night:
You can see the two heavy wires sitting on the base below the terminal strip, that's the removed 3rd phase wires. I'll tape those up. Then there's a heavy wire you can see moved to the left coil rightmost stud. That's the 1st coil, jumpers will go from that coil to the right coil. I need to pickup some #8 THHN and terminals to get the jumpers made.
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So the first thing i did was eliminate the 3rd phase wires from both below and above. Then i moved the 2nd phase wire to the other end of the coil on the leftmost bank. The jumpers were installed on the 460v position, which gives 240v across the entire transformer coil on the left most coil bank. I'll use jumpers to invert the rightmost coil per haas-kamp and then jumpers to the capacitors for the center coil. Heres where i left it last night:
You can see the two heavy wires sitting on the base below the terminal strip, that's the removed 3rd phase wires. I'll tape those up. Then there's a heavy wire you can see moved to the left coil rightmost stud. That's the 1st coil, jumpers will go from that coil to the right coil. I need to pickup some #8 THHN and terminals to get the jumpers made.
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Awesome score on some nice older welding machines. I can't imagine tearing into them like you are. I guess that's why I haven't considered trying to pick up any older units.
Also a great looking building. I haven't followed along from the beginning, but enjoyed going through your thread and seeing all your different projects.
Also a great looking building. I haven't followed along from the beginning, but enjoyed going through your thread and seeing all your different projects.
OP
86turbodsl
Well-known member
Thanks Jp, i think the hardest part of the welder mods is just keeping track of what you did since it takes so long to gather all the little bits you don't discover you need until you tear into it. I had to mail order ring terminals because NOBODY local stocks large stuff like that. Then i have to really scour for large gauge THHN wire that will work. And the feeder needs attention, so nobody carries parts for that, so i have to mail order everything there. It's a slow process for sure.
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86turbodsl
Well-known member
Tonight i got my terminals from mcmaster. I started by connecting the left and right coils in reverse order as shown here.
Then made leads for the center coil to the caps and back to the right coil. Those are going to have to wait for cap placement which from the looks will be awful hard.
The tie bar for the contactor i made from a flattened 3/4in copper pipe ground down to fit the lugs.
Still need to mount caps and connect them. Then try it out.
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Then made leads for the center coil to the caps and back to the right coil. Those are going to have to wait for cap placement which from the looks will be awful hard.
The tie bar for the contactor i made from a flattened 3/4in copper pipe ground down to fit the lugs.
Still need to mount caps and connect them. Then try it out.
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OP
86turbodsl
Well-known member
I knew mounting caps was going to be very tough, as there wasn't a lot of spare room in the case of this welder. Finally settled on mounting caps to the fan shroud as really only viable method. I made this bracket to try and mount a pair in one location.
But it didnt' fit very well and the case screws would pierce the can because of there being two, so i split them all up into singles. I'll connect with wire anyway.
Mounted them on the corners of the shroud where there was some room.
The 4th can wouldn't fit on the corner of the shroud because that's where the cord entered the machine. I found a spot on the transformer frame for that one. Attached all of the cans with rivets and brackets. Crude, but i didn't have any other way at the time to do this.
Then remounted the diode bridge and tightened everything up good, and then the fan assembly to the diode bridge.
I was getting very chilled by this time, so i will leave the last connections to tonight. All i have left is connect the caps using the leads i left myself and install a cord. Then test her out.
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But it didnt' fit very well and the case screws would pierce the can because of there being two, so i split them all up into singles. I'll connect with wire anyway.
Mounted them on the corners of the shroud where there was some room.
The 4th can wouldn't fit on the corner of the shroud because that's where the cord entered the machine. I found a spot on the transformer frame for that one. Attached all of the cans with rivets and brackets. Crude, but i didn't have any other way at the time to do this.
Then remounted the diode bridge and tightened everything up good, and then the fan assembly to the diode bridge.
I was getting very chilled by this time, so i will leave the last connections to tonight. All i have left is connect the caps using the leads i left myself and install a cord. Then test her out.
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Last edited:
OP
86turbodsl
Well-known member
Just checking in, i'm continuing to install ceiling steel presently. I lost my helpers, so it's slow going, clean a sheet, carry to the house, hose off, carry back, beg a helper to load the sheet on the lift, install by myself while climbing up and down ladders and into scaffold. SLOW SLOW SLOW. Over 75% of the ceiling covered now though. The fairlanes are almost ready to move out of the way.
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86turbodsl
Well-known member
Continuing the ceiling steel, 2 more before i have to cut one and install eave stuff.
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86turbodsl
Well-known member
It's been a while since i updated this thread. Been a lot going on with family issues. My dad has some health issues we are all dealing with now, so i haven't been doing much in the shop. But now i'm back on it for a while and this is what has transpired:
Took all remaining ceiling steel and loaded into the new truck and hauled to the house for washing. They were quite dirty.
Spent Easter monday afternoon washing them all and laying out on the ground to dry.
Then loaded them all back up and stacked outside the door to the shop.
The removal of this long time stack of steel revealed a ton of **** underneath.
Which then got organized into like type steel scrap, motorcycle parts, car parts and other, and then consolidated elsewhere. It freed up a lot of floorium.
After reorganizing, i had to move the bridgeport and drill press out of the way, clearing more floor space.
And after over 10 years, the fairlanes moved.
Far enough to move the stack of cherry on the side of the mezzanine onto the back wall and start tearing into the mezzanine. That's tonights' project (and probably some of the rest of the week) To be able to get sheets hung onto the ceiling since there is no way to get the drywall jack where it needs to go for the next sheet with the mezz in the way. I think i'm looking at musical fairlanes for a while to get this next bit done, but it will get done.
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Took all remaining ceiling steel and loaded into the new truck and hauled to the house for washing. They were quite dirty.
Spent Easter monday afternoon washing them all and laying out on the ground to dry.
Then loaded them all back up and stacked outside the door to the shop.
The removal of this long time stack of steel revealed a ton of **** underneath.
Which then got organized into like type steel scrap, motorcycle parts, car parts and other, and then consolidated elsewhere. It freed up a lot of floorium.
After reorganizing, i had to move the bridgeport and drill press out of the way, clearing more floor space.
And after over 10 years, the fairlanes moved.
Far enough to move the stack of cherry on the side of the mezzanine onto the back wall and start tearing into the mezzanine. That's tonights' project (and probably some of the rest of the week) To be able to get sheets hung onto the ceiling since there is no way to get the drywall jack where it needs to go for the next sheet with the mezz in the way. I think i'm looking at musical fairlanes for a while to get this next bit done, but it will get done.
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Strouty
Well-known member
Sounds like you got a lot done in a little time. Looking good!
OP
86turbodsl
Well-known member
Thanks Strouty!
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lessersivad
Well-known member
Nice progress.
Spareparts
Well-known member
Looking Good, man you have come a long way with this project. When you are done you won't want to do anything in there to mess it up. LOL.
ajohno
Well-known member
Looking good. Hope all is fine with your dad.
OP
86turbodsl
Well-known member
Thanks guys. I wish i could say dad was good, but he is not. Prayers appreciated.
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Blackhawks63
Well-known member
Sorry about your dad. Prayers to your family.
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OldSoldier
Well-known member
x2 all the way.