aunsafe2015
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rlitman
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I don't blame you for not wanting to anchor in the stone. But I'm not sure that wood reaching only 3-1/2" out from the stone will give you enough space for the bracket that comes with the mount. The two TVs I've hung needed a wider strip of ceiling than that. More like 5".
What are your plans for the wires?
What are your plans for the wires?
Rubberdown
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Why not just use a pole mount and screw it into a rafter? If you have access above you can put a board wherever above the ceiling.
FredWanaker
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what do the ceiling joists anchor into at the fireplace if they run 90 degrees to it as you images imply?
428PI
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Keep the TV where it is if you don't use the fireplace and if you do and mount it high look at the heat that goes right up to the TV. Personally I couldn't stand to have to look up that high for a TV.
Rusted Nut
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Is there attic access above the ceiling? If so, install a 2x12 or 4x12 between the joists. You could screw through joist into the blocking, or attach with clips. If no access, the remove a piece of drywall, install some plywood; tape, texture, and paint to match, then attach bracket to plywood.
The Bean
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Tough one. I would put it right on the stone but youll need power and cable outlet boxes. Maybe have some extra pieces of that veneer handy if you ever want to reverse the job...
bluedog225
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I’d put it through the stone into a structural member behind if possible. Little holes easily covered later and graded bolt.
Or a piece of square steel tubing painted flat black trim floor to ceiling. And Mount on it at whatever height you want.
Or a piece of square steel tubing painted flat black trim floor to ceiling. And Mount on it at whatever height you want.
shoot summ
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Choice of that mount, or no TV, I would go no TV.
But I would mount it to the stone, would look so much better.
But I would mount it to the stone, would look so much better.
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ez-duzit
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The short cleat between 2 joists should be no problem. But I'd lave the TV where it is and keep a closed loop of a crackling fire running when not watching other programming. 
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ez-duzit
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I would use several #14 screws set in a counterbore and plugged.
rlitman
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One joist is more than sufficient to directly hang 60lbs from, so two should be fine to anchor your TV offset from one of them, since neither joist will see more than the total 60lbs load. As for 18", well, that's optimistic.
Best case scenario, the TV ends up centered right between two joists 16" OC. IF you're spanning 16" OC, 18" leaves 1" on each end past where your screws go into the joists. That'll probably be ok, but I'd prefer my screws further from the end of the wood, so I'd use at least a 20" cleat in this case.
Let's say worst case scenario, the center ends up almost touching the side of one joist, but you still want the TV to be centered on the cleat (the screws into the joist will be off center). Now you're looking at a 32" cleat to keep things appearing balanced.
As for screws, that's easy. I'd put two screws per joist, SLIGHTLY offset from each other (each maybe 1/16" off-center in opposite directions), counterbored into the 2x4 using a 1/2" forstner bit so you can plug it with wood later. And I'd use 1/4" button head lags like Spax. With four of those and a 2x4 spanning two joists, a 60lb tv isn't remotely a problem.
CraigStu
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1 cleat spanning 2 joists is way stronger than you need. I'd go w/ a piece of 1x6 red oak. I say that because it is usually available at big box stores and is stronger than plain pine. I would plan on painting it the same color as the ceiling. Painting makes it much easier to cover screw heads w/ caulk. So no matter where the screws need to be to get to the joists you end up completely hiding them. You could go w/ your thought of going full width and then along the sides to the walls. Then decide if it would work to paint it the same as the trim around windows and doors. I think I'd still match the ceiling but trim color is an option. But my impression (please don't take this as an insult) is that you are not a highly skilled woodworker w/ a shop full of tools so keeping it simple may be your best plan.
like2wheel
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What about something like this remodel ceiling fan mount?
Installs from below. You can put the box anywhere in the span, and it's made to hold 110lbs.
Easy to adapt to the pole.
Cover the hole with a flush box cover painted ceiling color. Or a decorative light cover.
It'll look better than a random block of wood on your ceiling.
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Installs from below. You can put the box anywhere in the span, and it's made to hold 110lbs.
Easy to adapt to the pole.
Cover the hole with a flush box cover painted ceiling color. Or a decorative light cover.
It'll look better than a random block of wood on your ceiling.
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Rusted Nut
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A 2x6 cleat spanning two joists and attached with (2) 3” screws each end will probably work.
The Bean
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Before attaching this 'cleat', I would consider opening the ceiling and installing solid 2x_ blocking between the two joists each side of centerline...
As to framing, the joists running perpendicular to the fireplace would be headed off 2" in front of a masonry chimney (if you have one), by a double 2x10 (if that's your joist size). That could give you the solid mounting point you desire. Drill a few holes to probe for that header.
Good luck.
As to framing, the joists running perpendicular to the fireplace would be headed off 2" in front of a masonry chimney (if you have one), by a double 2x10 (if that's your joist size). That could give you the solid mounting point you desire. Drill a few holes to probe for that header.
Good luck.
The Bean
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Before attaching this 'cleat', I would consider opening the ceiling and installing solid 2x_ blocking between the two joists each side of centerline...
As to framing, the joists running perpendicular to the fireplace would be headed off 2" in front of a masonry chimney (if you have one), by a double 2x10 (if that's your joist size). That could give you the solid mounting point you desire. Drill a few holes to probe for that header.
Good luck.
As to framing, the joists running perpendicular to the fireplace would be headed off 2" in front of a masonry chimney (if you have one), by a double 2x10 (if that's your joist size). That could give you the solid mounting point you desire. Drill a few holes to probe for that header.
Good luck.
FredWanaker
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thinking about it, I would find another spot. Put it in the corner at the appropriate height to be comfortable. https://www.cnet.com/tech/home-entertainment/your-tv-doesnt-belong-over-the-fireplace/
rburke65
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Wow….I sure like using the ceiling fan box that you install from below. Great idea!
The Bean
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NOTE: That ceiling fan/ light fixture box high load rating is for 16" on center joist spacing only. Half that load on 24 center. Be careful.
Things that are not used for designed purpose usually not warranted for job.
Things that are not used for designed purpose usually not warranted for job.
whateg01
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I wouldn't worry about the weight that much except that the weight won't be hanging straight down. The cg will be out in front of the cleat or mount or whatever is used.
I like the idea of some oak but even a 2x6 would look fine. Cut the ends at all angle and bevel the sides that aren't against the stone and it'll look like it was meant to be. With the right screws, I wouldn't even worry about hiding them.
ez-duzit
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The solution for this simple task is being blown way out of proportion.
CraigStu
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That is a very good point so yes I like going to a 2x6. Or glue together 2 layers of 1x oak.
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aunsafe2015
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whateg01
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My reason for 1x6 or 2x6 is, as I stated, it's not a load that is simply hanging. The cg is in front of the mounting point so it has a small torsional load on it. Additionally, if somebody bumps into it, the wider 2x6, with presumably wider spaces screws attaching it to ceiling joists, will resist movement better.
like2wheel
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Actually, I would use a ceiling fan mount. They commonly use a pin though a standard pipe size for the swivel at the top. I've had to lengthen a few fan downrods & it was easy with standard hardware store iron pipe.
Likely a similar size pipe to your mount, if not, it would be easy to adapt. And of course the fan mount would fit the remodel box perfectly.
Rubberdown
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you can’t use the fan box. The force being applied to it is not straight down. The force will be a twisting motion as the tv is cantilevered out in front of the pole. The fan boxes aren’t designed for that in any way.
OP you really ought to just mount it on the stone veneer and replace the veneer piece if you ever remove it. It will look 100 times nicer and can handle the loads no issue.
You can also hide all the wires that way and have it look professional. What you’re talking about is not going to look professional. It looks like a homeowner that did it themselves and didn’t do it right.
Not trying to be rude. Just want you to be happy when you’re done.
OP you really ought to just mount it on the stone veneer and replace the veneer piece if you ever remove it. It will look 100 times nicer and can handle the loads no issue.
You can also hide all the wires that way and have it look professional. What you’re talking about is not going to look professional. It looks like a homeowner that did it themselves and didn’t do it right.
Not trying to be rude. Just want you to be happy when you’re done.
housewolf
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I’d probably do a 2x 4 or 6 myself. The cleat attachment has been addressed but not the support to the cleat. 7/8” isn’t much to screw the flange of the support into. Aesthetically, it’s all subjective but I would forget about “hiding” the cleat, unless you’re willing to cut/repair/paint drywall. Focus on making it (and the pole/support) more attractive. I wouldn’t throw out your idea of adding a couple more pieces to the cleat to return to the back wall. Stick something up there and see what it looks like. It’s hard to tell but it looks like your house design is pretty modern, so that may be a challenge. Maybe try to tie it together (aesthetically) with something else in the room?
ETA; keep in mind, if you go joist to joist, this cleat will have to be longer than joist to joist. The cleat will have to center on the FP then be long enough to catch two joist
like2wheel
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If you used the fan top mount swivel as suggested in the post above yours, the box would not know the difference. The force would most certainly be straight down.
Moreover, it would better tolerate any movement without all the leverage from such a long arm acting on the top mount.