To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

about to install Mohawk system 1 - tips?

Piper

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 17, 2006
Messages
590
Location
Muskoka, Canada
So after many, many hours of contemplation I managed to buy a new mohawk system 1 last week :bounce:. It's in my garage right now and I'm preparing to install it. I have an 11 foot ceiling and will need to bend the stainless steel lines for the hydraulics at the ceiling to avoid some fluorescent fixtures. This would be a 45* offset at either side of the lift on the ceiling.

Anyway, I'm wondering if anyone has installed a system 1 and any tips or suggestions. Of course I have the manual but I'm looking for "real life" info.

The dealer will likely come to check this lift once installed but as I'm a significant distance from them it won't be for a while. Ideally they come and give me the green light for using the lift once I install it but I think there'll be a couple of months before that happens.

Piper
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

OldCarGuy

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 29, 2005
Messages
1,984
Location
Ohio
Congratulation on your new purchase. I'm sure that you'll be happy with your new Mohawk, and it'll give you years of service. Then you can pass it onto your children.

Installing a Mohawk System lift is actually very easy. The biggest obstacle would be uprighting the two columns. Though two men can easily accomplish it. I did the install entirely by myself. But remember I have an overhead bridge crane. Which makes lifting a breeze.

DSCF0399.jpg


First off determine where you're going to place the lift in the garage. The following diagram in the manual will help assist you. Follow the link below for pictures clarifying how I place my Mohawk. Although many may feel that I have may have lots of garage space. I treat space as a premium and don't waste a square foot of it! http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=610640&postcount=11

DSCF3988.jpg


Overall lift dimensions
sysline.gif


Upright the two columns in the approximate positions. Then drive in several of your vehicles to double check their placement. And get the feel for how much room you do have in and around the vehicle. Remember the 120” between the columns is a maximum, you could install them a little closer to conserve on space. Though I place mine at 120”.

Once the location is finalized, install the lag bolts. Drill the holes completely through the floor. Just in case they needed to be removed, you can just pound them the rest of the way through the floor. Install each anchor once the hole is drilled, not tightening the nuts and washers. With all the anchors in place. Place the plastic shims under the columns base plate to make the columns vertical. I use a 48” carpenter's level. Tighten the anchors as per the factory specifications.

Next you can install the lifting arms and locks. Pay close attention to the instructions. Assembly of locks can be a bit tricky. When installed properly, they work slick as a whistle! Once the arms are in place, you can double check that you have the columns perfectly vertical. If the floor is level, the arms will pivot parallel to the floor. And the four arms will be at the same level when extended toward each other.

Install electrical power per instructions and local codes. But you can temporarily run 120 volts to the motor. Even thought it's rated at 240Volts.

Next install all the hydraulic components per the instructions.. You can Route the two 3/8” stainless steel hydraulic lines between the two columns any why you can physically place them.. Picture below is how I ran the two lines. Up, back, at angle across the ceiling, even through a fluorescent fixture, before running down to the other column. In order to get the most travel out of my bridge crane.

Mohawk020.jpg


You'll need a good quality bender to get smooth bends without kinking them. I own a hand bender similar to this. http://www.alloahirecentre.co.uk/uploads/foto/normal/84/Hand Held Pipe Bender.jpg. A high quality flaring tool is needed to flare the ends of the stainless steel line. A cheap Being that stainless is a lot tougher than mild steel lines,, A Harbor Freight one may not do a good job.

You must bleed the lines to purge all the air out of the system. If you don't the carriages will lift erratically. It was my experience that the bleeder valve assembly will not accomplish it! And I bled the system manually. This would be a two person job. But I installed a remote switch and accomplished it by myself. With the lift in the lowered position. Slightly loosen the “in line” hydraulic fitting of the cylinder at the far column. (Column without the pump) Place a rag over the fitting to keep oil from spraying all over the place. Run the pump motor to raise the lift all the way to the top. Tighten the fitting, release the safety stops, and lower the lift. You may have to repeat this process four or five times to get all the air out. Once you have all the air removed from the Hydraulic system. The lift will move smoothly and in unison without any jerking motions.

Read through all the safety instructions and install all the safety tags. And you'll be good to go.
 
OP
P

Piper

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 17, 2006
Messages
590
Location
Muskoka, Canada
Thanks for the info OCG! I have 4 questions for you.

1. How far from the wall is the lift post? I have an install that looks similar, with the far post in my case with the base about 3" from the wall. My concern is that the floor and wall aren't attached as they were separate pours with no physical attachment. There isn't anything I can find regarding this in the install literature. Thoughts?

2. Did you literally have the overhead stainless hydraulic line running thru the fluorescent fixture? This is something I may be faced with. My current plan is to do offset bends in the stainless line but if you haven't had problems with running thru the fixture I'd prefer not having to bend the lines. (hmm, maybe I should wait until after the final electrical inspection?)

3. My floor is 6 inches thick, 4000psi concrete with no rebar or reinforcement mesh or fiber. I called Mohawk and they said the minimum is 4.5 inches so "I'm fine" but I am wondering what your floor construction is like. I don't want any horror stories of a lift pulling from the floor etc.

4. It appears that you've installed the lift yourself. Did you run into any warranty issues? I've been told by my supplier that I need to sign their name or else the warranty will be void (or that's at least what they're implying). Thoughts?

Looking forward to your response! :beer:

Piper
 
Last edited:

kvom

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 1, 2008
Messages
820
Location
*******, GA
I just installed a 7K Mohawk, although what was posted above is identical.

On mine, the arms attach to the posts with large bolts and nylock nuts. The size of the bolts and nuts was larger than any tool I owned, so you might want to check if you have what is needed to tighten them down. If I recall, the bolt was 2" and the nut 2.5".
 

OldCarGuy

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 29, 2005
Messages
1,984
Location
Ohio
Overhead crane = garage ****. Oh so exciting.....

For your viewing pleasure...

DSCF0711.jpg


Pictures of my crane picking up a 5,000 pound shaper from my trailer and putting it into its' place.

DSCF1914.jpg


DSCF1920.jpg



This is a bridge crane I installed in another one of my garages. Along with some pictures of it in action...

DSCF2210.jpg


DSCF2190.jpg


DSCF2172.jpg
 

OldCarGuy

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 29, 2005
Messages
1,984
Location
Ohio
Thanks for the info OCG! I have 4 questions for you.

1. How far from the wall is the lift post? I have an install that looks similar, with the far post in my case with the base about 3" from the wall. My concern is that the floor and wall aren't attached as they were separate pours with no physical attachment. There isn't anything I can find regarding this in the install literature. Thoughts?


To keep the bay next to my lift as wide as possible, I placed the pump tank assembly column with only a foot of clearance to the wall. That left only three inches from the pump release handle and the wall. It’s a little tight to get to the controls. Although I may not be able to pass between that column and the wall. There is enough room to set the lift arms and working on my truck. Once a vehicle is lifted there plenty of wiggle room. If I remember the instructions indicated to keep any anchors more than six inches from either and edge of the floor or expansion cracks.

DSCF3982.jpg



2. Did you literally have the overhead stainless hydraulic line running thru the fluorescent fixture? This is something I may be faced with. My current plan is to do offset bends in the stainless line but if you haven't had problems with running thru the fixture I'd prefer not having to bend the lines. (hmm, maybe I should wait until after the final electrical inspection?)


I have three continuous rows of fluorescent fixtures in my shop. I fastened the stainless steel lines to the ceiling. And rather than jogging, I ran the two lines through one of the fixtures. I first removed the bulbs and shade. To make sure I didn't hit the transformer or wires. Not sure it meets code,, have to ask Charles (in GA that). The holes are rather large and I could have made an effort to seal them. But the electriacal inspection was completed before I installed the lift.

DSCF1105jpg.jpg


Here's the view from the wall side.

DSCF1111jpg.jpg


3. My floor is 6 inches thick, 4000psi concrete with no rebar or reinforcement mesh or fiber. I called Mohawk and they said the minimum is 4.5 inches so "I'm fine" but I am wondering what your floor construction is like. I don't want any horror stories of a lift pulling from the floor etc.


You won't have any problems. My floor is also six inches thick. And have steel wire mesh with 4,500 PSI concrete.... But I understand that most lift manufacturers recommend a minimum 4” of 3,000 PSI...



4. It appears that you've installed the lift yourself. Did you run into any warranty issues? I've been told by my supplier that I need to sign their name or else the warranty will be void (or that's at least what they're implying). Thoughts?

Indeed I installed the lift by myself. Piece of cake! I couldn't get any response from the local distributer. So I went right to Mohawk's sales manager Tim Malone. He assured me that I would not have any warranty issues. Sadly Tim passed away this past December of a brain aneurysm. He was only 45 and missed by many... But I'm confident that Mohawk will make good on any warranty issues. By the way,, I see that Mohawk now has a 25 year structural warranty. To go along with their lifetime cylinder warranty and five year parts and service warranty. Including parts labor and mileage to and from you. Along with freight both ways... I guess you can consider this a plug...




Looking forward to your response! :beer:

Piper





Hope this helps... :beer:
 

rburke65

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 10, 2007
Messages
12,349
Location
Canfield, Ohio
Enlighten us, oh lucky Mohawk 2 post lift owners........what was the cost, please. I think OldCarGuy is a 10,000#, yes? Thanks
 

OldCarGuy

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 29, 2005
Messages
1,984
Location
Ohio
Enlighten us, oh lucky Mohawk 2 post lift owners........what was the cost, please. I think OldCarGuy is a 10,000#, yes? Thanks


I paid $5,850.00 over three years ago for my 10,000 pound capacity System 1 including shipping. (By the way all System 1's are 10,000 pound capacity.) And I had to install it myself! Another member here recently paid $500.00 less that including installation and a weight gage (That I paid $75.00 extra).
 

mechamunch

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 10, 2009
Messages
177
For your viewing pleasure...

DSCF0711.jpg


Pictures of my crane picking up a 5,000 pound shaper from my trailer and putting it into its' place.

DSCF1914.jpg


DSCF1920.jpg



This is:eek: a bridge crane I installed in another one of my garages. Along with some pictures of it in action...

DSCF2210.jpg


DSCF2190.jpg


DSCF2172.jpg

Holy Cow!!! :eek: That's an incredible amount of heavy machinery in one place. You even have a Ranger tire changer and wheel balancer!

:bowdown: I bow before your vast empire of automotive superiority.
 

krooser

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 3, 2005
Messages
2,377
Location
Waupaca, Wisconsin
And yet your crossbar states in gigantic black letters "CAPACITY 4,000 LBS"! :bounce:

The "lettering" on the crane has a 4K capacity... the actual crane can lift whatever you have...:bounce:

I used to transport rebuilt Kearney and Trecker machine tools from a shop in Milwaukee. these guys were K&T employees back when we still made this stuff here in the US.

They had a 2 1/2 ton bridge crane in their loading area and everything I loaded there weighed at least twice that amount... I mentioned that one time to the guy loading my trailer and he smiled and said..."A ton of steel was a lot heavier in the old days"....
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Spencer Was Here

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 2, 2006
Messages
327
Location
Western Michigan
Old Car Guy, thanks for cheering me up tonight. With your vast array of garage goodies I found something I have that you don't seem to have...straps made and rated for overhead lifting. I purchased a new Mowhawk lift a few months ago too, so I'm slowly catching up to you.

Piper, the only installation tip I can think to add at this point is to drill all the way through your concrete pad. At least that is what my distributors installer told me to do, and it seems to make sense. He said that way, if you need to replace or remove one or more of the anchor bolts, you can pound them down. If you don't drill all the way through, there is no easy way to pull them out.

Also, check the hydraulic connections from the factory. All the connections I made were fine, but one of their connections on the pump leaked pretty bad the while I was bleeding the system. I mentioned that leak to their installer a couple of days later and he said he had never had a factory connection leak on him, so my case may have been an isolated incident, but it doesn't hurt to check.

Spence
 
Last edited:

krooser

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 3, 2005
Messages
2,377
Location
Waupaca, Wisconsin
I installed my Weaver two post myself... pretty simple. Mine is a floor plate model and I just bolted it all together, made sure it was where I wanted it and square, drilled the holes and it was done.

I bought the lift used and disassmebled it, moved it and reinstalled it in one day.
 
Last edited:
OP
P

Piper

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 17, 2006
Messages
590
Location
Muskoka, Canada
Thanks for the follow up everyone! I think I'll cut a hole thru the fluor fixtures as well. I just don't want to get into bending/cutting and going thru the fixture solves that. As for cost, I bought my lift, the system 1, 10000 lb, new from Canadian Powertrain, in Toronto, Ontario. They sold it for CAN$6000 plus $135 for the weight gauge (that fits inline with the hydraulics) plus tax. My understanding is that the exact same lift just south of the boarder is US$5975 so I'm pretty pleased with the cost on my side. I did consider crossing over and bringing a US Mohawk lift back but it didn't make sense. I'm not sure if the $6000 is an advertised price or not. I picked it up on my own truck and do plan to install it myself as well.

I'm hoping that I can get it installed within 2 weeks. I've got a ton of other stuff to do on this addition before I get to the lift. (gotta keep the family happy)

Piper
 

OldCarGuy

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 29, 2005
Messages
1,984
Location
Ohio
old car guy, how do you like the bend pak lift compared to the system I?



Construction wise, there's no comparison between the BendPak and the Mohawk. Like comparing apples and oranges. But for the home use and particularly being budget minded. The BenPak is an outstanding value. And will lift any vehicle under its' capacity as safely as the Mohawk. Just being ETL Certified makes it far better than any imported lift. And the Bendpak is well within the price range of the imports...

Here's a thread I posted earlier comparing the BenPak, Ben Pierson, and Mowhak two post lifts..

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19456

.
 

OldCarGuy

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 29, 2005
Messages
1,984
Location
Ohio
Old Car Guy, thanks for cheering me up tonight. With your vast array of garage goodies I found something I have that you don't seem to have...straps made and rated for overhead lifting. I purchased a new Mowhawk lift a few months ago too, so I'm slowly catching up to you.

Piper, the only installation tip I can think to add at this point is to drill all the way through your concrete pad. At least that is what my distributors installer told me to do, and it seems to make sense. He said that way, if you need to replace or remove one or more of the anchor bolts, you can pound them down. If you don't drill all the way through, there is no easy way to pull them out.



Spence

I was wondering if anyone would notice that I was using un-rated tow straps to lift my shaper...
 

OldCarGuy

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 29, 2005
Messages
1,984
Location
Ohio
And yet your crossbar states in gigantic black letters "CAPACITY 4,000 LBS"! :bounce:

That crossbar is actually called a bridge.

I constructed and installed the bridge crane myself. And had a crane engineer recommend the beam size to handle 4,000 pounds. Like any hoist equipment there's always a safety factor. And would take three times the rating to actually fail. I put the capacity rating for looks and when I move on, hopefully others will heed the rating...

Don't tell anyone. But I picked up the Deckel Duplicator that sits next to the shaper. That weighs over 6,000 pounds with the crane.
 

kvom

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 1, 2008
Messages
820
Location
*******, GA
My 10 y/o 7K asymetric Mohawk cost $1600 ... I found it on CL. A local garage replaced it with a Bendpac 4-post in order to do oil changes and other jobs faster. All their other lifts were 10K Series 1 lifts that the techs preferred, so the 7K lift apparently got a lot less use. FWIW, the garage owner was less than ecstatic about the 20K BP lift (apparently the cables were starting to fray after a year's use).

I picked it up myself using my car hauler trailer. The garage loaded the posts with a forklift, and I unloaded them, with the help of a friend, using a cherry picker and then a pallet jack.

I had the local Mohawk-certified installer put it in. In addition to lacking the big wrenchs for the arm bolts, I wanted the lift to be checked out by someone knowledgeable. The total installation cost was about $400, which included one of the arm pads that the garage had lost. The cost also included fabricating the electrical hookup. I had previously wired a dedicate 220V circuit, and supplied the plug. The installer provided the 10ga SO cord as well as a plug/socket disconnect at the lift. I also suppliedc 3 gallons of hydraulic fluid.
 

krooser

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 3, 2005
Messages
2,377
Location
Waupaca, Wisconsin
Construction wise, there's no comparison between the BendPak and the Mohawk. Like comparing apples and oranges. But for the home use and particularly being budget minded. The BenPak is an outstanding value. And will lift any vehicle under its' capacity as safely as the Mohawk. Just being ETL Certified makes it far better than any imported lift. And the Bendpak is well within the price range of the imports...

Here's a thread I posted earlier comparing the BenPak, Ben Pierson, and Mowhak two post lifts..

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19456

.

Isn't the BendPak a ChiCom import as well?
 

EuroVt

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 28, 2010
Messages
103
Location
Central Vermont
I just got a quote of $1600 on the Mohawk A-7. That's the 6000lb version. Personally, I am shocked at the price. I figured it would be much more. It's a no brainer imho.
 

pimp-boy

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 17, 2010
Messages
47
Location
San Jose, CA.
I just got a quote of $1600 on the Mohawk A-7. That's the 6000lb version. Personally, I am shocked at the price. I figured it would be much more. It's a no brainer imho.

How did you get a quote so cheap? They are selling new for over $5k for the A-7. Is it used?
 

EuroVt

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 28, 2010
Messages
103
Location
Central Vermont
This was all from around Chrismas time.

Quotes on the lift: Eagleequip, N.C., $1499.
eautotools, Ca., $1500.
n.a.autoequip, N.Y., won't quote price
pacetools, Dallas, Tx., $1299. w. coupon (coupon available on line)
All prices do not include shipping.

Mohawk's suggested price is $1800.
 

JeepCO12

New member
Joined
Jun 23, 2013
Messages
4
(Yes, for those that get bothered by this - I know it's a very old thread - but others like me are still reading it for ideas).

From a post on the previous page (#7):

To keep the bay next to my lift as wide as possible, I placed the pump tank assembly column with only a foot of clearance to the wall. That left only three inches from the pump release handle and the wall. It’s a little tight to get to the controls. Although I may not be able to pass between that column and the wall. There is enough room to set the lift arms and working on my truck. Once a vehicle is lifted there plenty of wiggle room.

I am looking at installing a Mohawk lift myself and one of the bits of advice the rep gave me was to put the controls on the post in the center of the garage rather than the post nearest the wall (assuming the garage is 2 bays wide). He felt it was safer - because if a vehicle becomes unbalanced and starts to shift on the lift, you don't want to be at the controls trying to lower it with a wall at your back - nowhere to run if it starts coming your way.

Up until he said that, I was planning on the shortest conduit run and putting the controls on the post next to the wall as pictured above. But, no matter whose lift you install, it makes sense to have clear space behind the controls in the unlikely event you need to beat a hasty retreat!
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom