Adding a receptacle to a T12 ceiling fixture

[rharman]

I'd like to add a bug zapper in my garage. I have a duplex receptacle in the ceiling but it's fully populated by my retractable extension cord and door opener light fixture.

I have 4 T12 8' fixtures in the main portion of my garage within reasonable reach of where I'd hang the bug zapper. Is there any problem in mounting a handy box & receptacle on a knockout on the side? I really don't want the zapper on 24 hours so having it switched with the light would be great.

Fixture similar to this. Hard-wired into a ceiling box.

 

[u2slow]

Sounds reasonable. I'd do it in my own shop.

Edit: check the circuit loading. If it's maxed out, do something else.

 

[dscheidt]

Other than handy boxes are the mark of incompetent handymen, no. Almost all fixtures like that are listed as being used as a raceway. Even if it’s not, it’s allowed to extend the lighting circuit to another fixture.

 

[Codyboy]

Here's an idea. Make the single duplex a two duplex.
Or just plug in a 3 way adapter.
Doesn't appear there's much load on it anyhow.

 

[rharman]

Other than handy boxes are the mark of incompetent handymen, no. Almost all fixtures like that are listed as being used as a raceway. Even if it’s not, it’s allowed to extend the lighting circuit to another fixture.

Here's an idea. Make the single duplex a two duplex.
Or just plug in a 3 way adapter.
Doesn't appear there's much load on it anyhow.

I used "handy box" as a generic term. I get that there's a stigma to them in some people's eyes but I'm not wiring a space shuttle here.

Not worth the effort to cut things up to put in a double gang box. And, that doesn't deal with the fact that I want it switched. A "smart outlet would resolve that but... overkill.

The adapter is a real simple fix but that means the zapper would be powered all the time. I'm trying to avoid that.

 

[u2slow]

This (with a chase-****** or plastic grommet for the wiring) is what I was picturing, neatly on the end of the fixture.

 

[WillyBoy]

Your bug zapper is still going to be in the wrong place. Give it to your next door neighbor. That's the correct distance to be from those things for bug-free living.

 

[dave*99]

Your bug zapper is still going to be in the wrong place. Give it to your next door neighbor. That's the correct distance to be from those things for bug-free living.

^ Yes.

Position a bug zapper at least 20-40 feet away from people to draw insects toward the zapper rather than your gathering area. Place it in a dark, isolated location, such as a tree or shepherd's hook, to maximize its attraction, and away from competing light sources. The ideal height is 6-7 feet off the ground to be in the insects' flight path.

It's good to run the zapper for a while before you open the garage door.

 

[rharman]

Your bug zapper is still going to be in the wrong place. Give it to your next door neighbor. That's the correct distance to be from those things for bug-free living.

^ Yes.

Position a bug zapper at least 20-40 feet away from people to draw insects toward the zapper rather than your gathering area. Place it in a dark, isolated location, such as a tree or shepherd's hook, to maximize its attraction, and away from competing light sources. The ideal height is 6-7 feet off the ground to be in the insects' flight path.

It's good to run the zapper for a while before you open the garage door.

Yeah, I do have a concern of attracting them right to where I'll be.
Neighbor has one on their front porch but it ain't helping in my garage.

I may just keep doing what I do now which is to use OFF spray or wipes to repel them.

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

I have one in my garage. When the lights are off the bugs are attracted to it.
When the lights are on in the garage I don't hear many getting zapped.

 

[ripperd]

If you do this you should label the outlet as well. The wiring in those florescent likely is smaller gauge and if an unsuspecting person hooks up a true 15-20a load to an outlet on the end of them they are going to get hot and potentially also have quite a bit of voltage drop.

 

[dave*99]

If you do this you should label the outlet as well. The wiring in those florescent likely is smaller gauge and if an unsuspecting person hooks up a true 15-20a load to an outlet on the end of them they are going to get hot and potentially also have quite a bit of voltage drop.

You need connect to the branch circuit wires that feed each light. They should appear in every fixture. You should not tie a receptacle to any smaller gauge wires associated with each fixture.

 

[Norcal]

Don't forget that GFCI protection is required, & must be accessible.

 

[rharman]

If you do this you should label the outlet as well. The wiring in those florescent likely is smaller gauge and if an unsuspecting person hooks up a true 15-20a load to an outlet on the end of them they are going to get hot and potentially also have quite a bit of voltage drop.

You need connect to the branch circuit wires that feed each light. They should appear in every fixture. You should not tie a receptacle to any smaller gauge wires associated with each fixture.

Don't forget that GFCI protection is required, & must be accessible.

Yeah, IF I do this, the tie-in would be to the feed from the recessed box. I believe its all 12ga Romex. Might be 14 but I doubt it.

Thanks for the reminder. Didn't think about GFCI. The existing ceiling outlet was 1993 so not GFCI.