Advice for Garage Ceiling Insulation Supports

[65Goat]

I am installing batt insulation in the ceiling of my garage. Below is a stock photo but I am using wire supports to keep the insulation held in place.

Pretty basic and for the most part it's going well, but there are a couple joists that are just a little further apart and the support wire doesn't have enough tension to hold the insulation up.

I was thinking of putting a small block of wood on the joist for the wire to catch on, but I was curious if there was a better trick?

Example:


Product:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Common-23-5-in-Actual-23-5-in-100-Pack-Insulation-Support/1007637

 

[930dreamer]

Are you going to staple the insulation paper flaps to the vertical studs?

 

[Wiz02]

@930dreamer , that was an extremely tactful way to respond

@65Goat
Here is a set of instructions from an insulation manufacturer. Major points are to make sure that the insulation fills the cavity snugly and to staple the facing to the stud. I am sure that there are a ton of YouTube videos on this subject too.

/https://www.certainteed.com/insulation/installation-faced-insulation/

 

[NUTTSGT]

Curious as to why you don't staple it to the bottom of the joints ?

 

[Dig Doug]

Just add a 2x4 or several to make it work, they have 24 inch wide insulation if that helps.

typically most insulation companys use a Stone wire ( a wire that’s used in exterior lathing ) and they tack up roofing nails on all joist s and set the insulation batt and the secure the wire to each nail then tap the nail in so it flush. That will hold the insulation batt in place.

 

[65Goat]

Are you going to staple the insulation paper flaps to the vertical studs?

Yes!

I found that picture on the internet. On my project I ran the support wire through the insulation (versus under it) and I will be able to staple the paper flaps to the stud.

 

[65Goat]

^^^

 

[65Goat]

Curious as to why you don't staple it to the bottom of the joints ?

Thanks for the question!!

That is a stock photo and not my actual project.

However, I haven't stapled down my flaps yet (but I will). I wanted more support than just the staples and went with the wire support. I am using R30 and it is 10 inches thick and 24 inches wide. It would have a ton of sag in the middle if I only used staples.

 

[65Goat]

Just add a 2x4 or several to make it work, they have 24 inch wide insulation if that helps.

typically most insulation companys use a Stone wire ( a wire that’s used in exterior lathing ) and they tack up roofing nails on all joist s and set the insulation batt and the secure the wire to each nail then tap the nail in so it flush. That will hold the insulation batt in place.

Thanks for the pictures. Very much appreciated.

This looks fantastic.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Are you not putting a ceiling in ? Those staples will hold it until you add your ceiling.

 

[65Goat]

Are you not putting a ceiling in ? Those staples will hold it until you add your ceiling.

Great question. This is my new detached garage and I want to use it for a year or so before I drywall everything in.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Ugh..... drywall. I would seriously consider white ribbed metal.

 

[65Goat]

Ugh..... drywall. I would seriously consider white ribbed metal.

^^^^^^

 

[NUTTSGT]

I know, drywall isn't perfect but that's why I want to wait a little before I put it up.

After I put insulation up in my addition, I added 1" foil faced to cover the insulation. I hung it using the plastic cap off nails and used 2" drywall screws. Then sealed the nail heads and seams with foil tape. That was going to be the ceiling until I recovered financially to get metal for the ceiling. Fortunately, my Menards rebates started showing up and I got the metal sooner than expected. Since I have 1" foam up, I used 2" metal screws. Just don't attempt to sink them deep.

The nice thing about the metal, it's "one and done." No mudding, sanding, priming and painting.

Garage Refurb®

Looking great!

www.garagejournal.com

 

[65Goat]

After I put insulation up in my addition, I added 1" foil faced to cover the insulation. I hung it using the plastic cap off nails and used 2" drywall screws. Then sealed the nail heads and seams with foil tape. That was going to be the ceiling until I recovered financially to get metal for the ceiling. Fortunately, my Menards rebates started showing up and I got the metal sooner than expected. Since I have 1" foam up, I used 2" metal screws. Just don't attempt to sink them deep.

The nice thing about the metal, it's "one and done." No mudding, sanding, priming and painting.

Garage Refurb®

Looking great!

www.garagejournal.com

Thanks for sharing. That looks really well insulated. Nice looking too.

Are your walls drywall?

 

[NUTTSGT]

Thanks for sharing. That looks really well insulated. Nice looking too.

Are your walls drywall?

Nope. Personally, I would never put drywall in a garage (sans attached garage/adjoining wall).

The rest of my walls in the garage are osb. On the addition, I decided to spend a few dollars more and go with plywood. I wanted to see what the actual difference would look like. I'm glad I went with plywood. It does look nicer.

 

[adrenalinejeeper]

We used Rockwool(no paper), and tried those wire insulation support things but they didn't work well for us. We ended up stapling twine up as we lifted the insulation. It ended up looking kind of like the photo above with the Stone wire. It held the Rockwool up fine until drywall, so I'm sure it would hold the pink stuff as well. On your bays that are too wide for the support wire you could try the twine/stone wire method. A nice staple gun and an extra set of hands made it a ton easier.

 

[marak]

If the support wire needs to be a couple of inches or less longer in length, drive in a sheetrock screw such that the heat of the screw is located where the end of the support wire needs to be in order to provide the necessary compression. Then place the end of the wire in the head of the screw.

I used Rockwool like someone else mentioned and even though there is a greater cost, it is a pleasure to work with in comparison to the pink stuff, and it holds its shape nicely.

 

[65Goat]

We used Rockwool(no paper), and tried those wire insulation support things but they didn't work well for us. We ended up stapling twine up as we lifted the insulation. It ended up looking kind of like the photo above with the Stone wire. It held the Rockwool up fine until drywall, so I'm sure it would hold the pink stuff as well. On your bays that are too wide for the support wire you could try the twine/stone wire method. A nice staple gun and an extra set of hands made it a ton easier.

Thanks for the note.

I used the Rockwool soundproofing when I finished the basement in my previous house. That stuff is nice to work with.

I like the twine idea.

 

[65Goat]

If the support wire needs to be a couple of inches or less longer in length, drive in a sheetrock screw such that the heat of the screw is located where the end of the support wire needs to be in order to provide the necessary compression. Then place the end of the wire in the head of the screw.

Genius! This is a fantastic idea. Thanks so much for sharing.