Advice needed desperately regarding garagedominium design

[CraigStu]

I agree that the barnwood will be an expensive interior but if you like the look work towards it. There are other products that look similar but may be less expensive. Search 'burnt wood wall sheeting' or 'burnt wood technique' to see a technique that can make plain wood look much different. I have seen it done to very plain surface wood but prefer it done to wood w/ lots of grain and knots. Some make the wood practically black and others do the burning lightly just to highlight grain and knots. How high up your 20ft walls do you want to finish? Some wall sheeting (drywall, metal, and ?) is available in 10ft lengths so you could go that high fairly easily. The spray foam for the top 10ft could maybe be painted in a similar color? Or, like you see in some bars etc, paint everything above X feet black so it more or less disappears. Before you go to far I would make an appointment w/ the local code and permit people. Take the pics you posted above w/ you to show what you have and ask about what you are envisioning. I am pretty sure you will need to get a residential occupancy permit which means specific requirements for sewer, electrical, water, construction. They have probably dealt w/ people w/ a structure like yours who try to pass it off as a barn because of the much lower code requirements, but then try to live in it. So I would be up front and honest. The two times I have done the appointment/discussion thing regarding an add-on garage bay, they have been very helpful.

 

[KSJeff]

Building looks nice. If I were in your shoes, I'd probably start scouring the internet for building manufacturers/installers that sell buildings that look like yours. Then I'd give them a call, and ask them how folks are finishing the interior of those buildings. (I found similar buildngs at www.metalgaragecentral.com, but no real finished interior shots).

I don't know what the best practices are but if you can find an economical way to run horizontal stringers (metal or wood) you could probably finish with the wall product of your choice.

At this point, you really just want to gather options so you can make good decisions that move your project forward, and this is a good place to do that. Good luck.

 

[Boogerman]

Be nice to have a place away from town!

 

[LisaJ]

It looks like you originally built with a 2nd floor in mind, yes/no - living space?
What will be your use
How much plumbing will you have?
What level of interior finishes
You mentioned a similar metal panel, which would be fine.

I like the looks, you will get through this.
One benefit of of the depth of the posts (you've been calling them beams) is that it provides plenty of depth to accommodate plumbing.
Get a "Floorplan"! It's impossible to get "where you want" without a map.
I'd think about calling the permits and inspection department of your county/ town and ask for a meeting on-site. If you're lucky you might get some names of contractors who the inspector likes, and that generally means they do good work or are "low maintenance" from the inspectors pov. Always a good thing.
Without knowing anything more than this thread, I'd try to accelerate having the sewer, pump and chamber installed.
Same for the spray foam. They are 2 "big ticket" items that you've stated are paid for.
The location of your *plumbing is generally the determining factor of what side of the building the ditch and pipe from the main from the street terminate at the building.
*generally plumbing is "stacked" or clustered to simplify the (gravity) waste lines, same for supply lines.
(floor plans needed 1st)
Assuming that the spray foam was paid to the original builder and you 2 are not on the best terms now..... you see where I'm going with this....
This, to a lesser extent requires a plan. With the posts depth, all of your mechanicals (plumbing, wiring and possibly hvac) should easily be concealed in this void that will be created.
At minimum I'd make a friendly call now and then to both of these "debtor's" reminding them that you haven't disappeared.

Post; vertical load bearing
Beam; horizontal " "

Thanks for your reply.

We won’t have a full 2nd story. Just an open loft over half of the space. We may occasionally stay there or friends/family may stay there, but for the most part, it will be a 1/2 recreation, 1/2 barn building. We have a 2 acre pond out there, and we built a dock, so there will be lots of fishing, paddle boating, bonfires, cookouts, etc. (That’s the “recreation” side). The “barn” side (which will go under the loft) is to store my farming tools, along with my UTV that also has a truck bed for gardening. So basically, it’s not really being created for “living” in mind, but will have that short-term capability, if needed. I want it to feel like a comfortable space to hang out and rest from farming and fishing - with AC (it’s not as hell where I live in the summer) - but very low maintenance, so people and pets can come in dirty or wet without worry. It will have a small kitchen, a bathroom, and washer/dryer downstairs. All plumbing will be on the same side of the building.

As for our local permitting department, after the last nightmare with them, where they made us pay $8k to get a sewer permit before they would even give our contractor a building permit for the original carriage house we had plans to build (until our contractor decided he was going to raise the price by $40k, that is), I honestly want as little to do with them as possible. That dumb zoning department created this entire crazy situation of us having a sewer permit and a grinder pump being paid for before we even have the dang lines run or a structure built. Still makes me mad. Grrrrr. So, as it stands right now, after MUCH effort, they now have us permitted for a barn with electricity, and I’m leaving that right there. They can check the electric and be gone. Lol. Every time they get involved, they truly make things 100x worse and take 5x as long doing it. Ugh. (Sorry about the rant! lol).

I talked with the engineer at the sewer department 2 days ago, and we have the new location chosen for the grinder pump for this building, and he has instructed me (again) on what needs to be in place for them to install and hook it up. For as much fumbling as the zoning department has done, this man has been wonderful. He even offered to meet with our electrician and plumber once we get that lined up to make sure we are all on the same page. Bless him. Such a nice man. So say a little prayer about that.

We have a good friend who has done a lot of work at our home, and he also builds bathrooms and does all kinds of other remodeling work (he owns his own company), and he is going to meet us out there on Saturday to see if he can help us get this thing coordinated. We are going to ask if he wants to take over what’s left to do and pay him to handle the rest of the project on our behalf. I know where I want everything to go (kitchen, bathroom, etc) and since the only walls that need to be built will be for the bathroom (it’s otherwise all open), I really think it should be manageable for him and that he can squeeze us into his schedule.

Thankfully, the spray foam payment has been made to the company that put up our building, not the previous contractor (he was building a completely different structure that we had paid for engineered plans for already, etc, before we backed out, when he raised the price another $40k). This barn is a different structure that we got done on our own after we cut ties with the contractor. The spray foam company is chomping at the bit to get their job done, but we are now holding them off until after the electric and plumbing are complete.

I’m reading this whole thing I just wrote, and this story is crazy, isn’t it? Lol. I have lived the whole thing, and I’m still confused!

Thank you sooooo much for teaching me the correct terminology for beam and post! So helpful! And thank you for being so nice and encouraging, as well! You’re right that maybe it’s a GOOD thing that I have extra space between the posts for the plumbing and electric! Excellent point. I’m going to start looking at it from that positive perspective! Thanks again!

 

[LisaJ]

I'd respectfully disagree with getting the plumbing and spray foam done as soon as possible. Recognizing that you've paid for them and need to get the contractors to do the work before they "disappear" is important, but those two things if done wrong will cost many times what they cost originally, especially the foam.

Know what your floor plan is, and how you are going to finish the walls before you put any plumbing into the building. Outside plumbing isn't quite as important, as long as it's close to the final locations. Getting any under slab plumbing in the wrong place is a very hard to accommodate mistake, even if it's just a couple inches wrong.

The spray foam I absolutely would not do until I know that I have put in all the attached framing elements and the building official has done a framing inspection and signed off on the framing for the entire build-out, including internal partitions. It's a nightmare working around covered up structural elements and really, really complicates code compliance if the building inspector can't see everything. Without knowing what you intend to build out for interior partitions, multi floors, etc, it's impossible to know what you will be covering up that needs to be open. Getting your windows blocked in, and protecting any of the elements that will be exposed in the final finish from foam will be vital to having the space look good when you're done. As I mentioned earlier, if you have multi levels in the building, fire blocking of sealed in wall cavities will be a critical element. Foam can make these a real pain to install after the fact. Much easier to get them in, and then spray the foam around them.

Thank you so much, once again, for all of the insight and advice. I am soaking it all in and taking notes (literally). Although it’s a bit overwhelming, I’m starting to get a picture in my head of how it all needs to flow. We are meeting with a builder friend of ours on Saturday, and we are going to get this all hammered out and a plan in place to move forward. I just need to determine if my new “solution” for the posts (I learned this new term today!) to be hidden will work. If it will, I think things should get moving quickly. I hope. lol.

 

[LisaJ]

Building looks nice. If I were in your shoes, I'd probably start scouring the internet for building manufacturers/installers that sell buildings that look like yours. Then I'd give them a call, and ask them how folks are finishing the interior of those buildings. (I found similar buildngs at www.metalgaragecentral.com, but no real finished interior shots).

I don't know what the best practices are but if you can find an economical way to run horizontal stringers (metal or wood) you could probably finish with the wall product of your choice.

At this point, you really just want to gather options so you can make good decisions that move your project forward, and this is a good place to do that. Good luck.

I have been looking and looking and can’t seem to find anyone who has finished out a building like ours. I see lots of the red steel, but not a single building with the kind of posts we have. I looked at the website for the company who did our building, and they have nothing either. Maybe I will be doing something groundbreaking? Lol. Thanks for the website link. I will definitely check that out. Much appreciated! (I will also look up what a “stringer” is. Lol. Not sure about what that is).

 

[KSJeff]

I have been looking and looking and can’t seem to find anyone who has finished out a building like ours. I see lots of the red steel, but not a single building with the kind of posts we have. I looked at the website for the company who did our building, and they have nothing either. Maybe I will be doing something groundbreaking? Lol. Thanks for the website link. I will definitely check that out. Much appreciated! (I will also look up what a “stringer” is. Lol. Not sure about what that is).

Stringer is probably the wrong term. Just talking about running some boards/metal horizontally across your supports so you can attach some type of wall system. something like this.

 

[LisaJ]

Stringer is probably the wrong term. Just talking about running some boards/metal horizontally across your supports so you can attach some type of wall system. something like this.

Yes, yes, yes! I *think* this is part of the potential solution that I found on a video at around 4am this morning. If you get time, would you watch this video and see if this is similar to what you are referencing and what you had in mind?

 

[bobg03]

I have been looking and looking and can’t seem to find anyone who has finished out a building like ours. I see lots of the red steel, but not a single building with the kind of posts we have. I looked at the website for the company who did our building, and they have nothing either. Maybe I will be doing something groundbreaking? Lol. Thanks for the website link. I will definitely check that out. Much appreciated! (I will also look up what a “stringer” is. Lol. Not sure about what that is).

My, my what a storied adventure you've had.
I see that this will be a recreational getaway and not you're primary residence til maybe at a later date. Of course you realize that Horry County will tax this property as a second home (that ***** in itself), personally I like what you've built and would be trying to escape Dirty Myrtle and make this property my primary residence. I live in Conway and purchased my land in city limits back in late 2010 and built in 2014, as I did not want to be anywhere near the craziness that the Grand Strand offered.

As you're aware the transient invasion, year round population growth, the off season being not what it was and building of neighborhoods everywhere has changed the trades enormously in the last 4 years. Making it darn near impossible to get anyone that you don't have a long term relationship with to provide any quality services to a home/property owner, and of course Horry County govt doesn't make anything easy unless you're a developer building a "neighborhood."

I have no experience about what you're up against building wise, but as a half-back transient, raised in South Florida, dragged by parents to New England in the 70's over the concrete jungle that South Florida was becoming and we are now experiencing here, and then returning here (halfway back) where I planned to finish my life in peace. I hope your dream goes as planned and wish you the best of luck with your obstacles.

You'll get good advice here, some uncalled for criticism and god knows what else. Sift thru it carefully and take the negative with a grain of salt. I'm sure there will be excellent advise offered.

 

[LisaJ]

Yes, yes, yes! I *think* this is part of the potential solution that I found on a video at around 4am this morning. If you get time, would you watch this video and see if this is similar to what you are referencing and what you had in mind?

I agree that the barnwood will be an expensive interior but if you like the look work towards it. There are other products that look similar but may be less expensive. Search 'burnt wood wall sheeting' or 'burnt wood technique' to see a technique that can make plain wood look much different. I have seen it done to very plain surface wood but prefer it done to wood w/ lots of grain and knots. Some make the wood practically black and others do the burning lightly just to highlight grain and knots. How high up your 20ft walls do you want to finish? Some wall sheeting (drywall, metal, and ?) is available in 10ft lengths so you could go that high fairly easily. The spray foam for the top 10ft could maybe be painted in a similar color? Or, like you see in some bars etc, paint everything above X feet black so it more or less disappears. Before you go to far I would make an appointment w/ the local code and permit people. Take the pics you posted above w/ you to show what you have and ask about what you are envisioning. I am pretty sure you will need to get a residential occupancy permit which means specific requirements for sewer, electrical, water, construction. They have probably dealt w/ people w/ a structure like yours who try to pass it off as a barn because of the much lower code requirements, but then try to live in it. So I would be up front and honest. The two times I have done the appointment/discussion thing regarding an add-on garage bay, they have been very helpful.

Oh, very good to know about the other types of wood! I will check that out. Such great suggestions. I would honestly like to go all the way to the ceiling with the wood (on the two opposing walls with the fat posts), at least until they pass the loft area and into the back barn section of the building. (Maybe I could just do the painted spray foam back there? Would I still need to cover it with something, though?). If I did Sheetrock at the top of the walls above the wood, would that require me to frame between (and in front of) the posts? I keep seeing videos of extensive framing when people are putting up sheet rock, so if I can avoid doing all of that (especially up high), I would love to avoid it, which is why I was thinking this wood idea would eliminate that issue? HOWEVER, if I can also do Sheetrock over those big posts without needing all of that extra framing that I keep seeing, I will just do that up top! That would solve all of my issues. You have NO idea how helpful it is getting all of this advice, by the way. I feel like I can see a light at the end of the tunnel. Lol.

As for our permitting/zoning department, they are awful. Ugh. I wish they were helpful like your department is, but they ****. I elaborated in some of my other comments, so I won’t bore you with the details, but after my previous experience with them, I would prefer them to be as far away from my project as possible. (They are REALLY bad).

They currently have us permitted for a barn with electricity. I wrote them a letter stating the honest purpose of the building, which is a barn in the back for my farming equipment, in addition to a recreation space in the front for relaxation and socializing. After some conversation with them, they accepted my explanation, and I did have to sign something saying we would not be living there, which we honestly won’t be. I think they finally accepted the explanation, because they can see that we have our main residence in the same county, and we are also paying taxes on four different properties, as well. However, even so, I honestly want them just to check the electric and give their stamp of approval, and then be gone. They made a huge mess of the last go-around and cost me what would have been $8k in unnecessary and ridiculous backwards permitting, had we not been able to re-use the sewer permit that they made us acquire BEFORE they would give us a building permit the last time. (It was truly a disaster, and that’s even when our contractor was handling everything! Lol).

Let me know what you think would work best if you had the big posts like I have. What would you do?

 

[LisaJ]

My, my what a storied adventure you've had.
I see that this will be a recreational getaway and not you're primary residence til maybe at a later date. Of course you realize that Horry County will tax this property as a second home (that ***** in itself), personally I like what you've built and would be trying to escape Dirty Myrtle and make this property my primary residence. I live in Conway and purchased my land in city limits back in late 2010 and built in 2014, as I did not want to be anywhere near the craziness that the Grand Strand offered.

As you're aware the transient invasion, year round population growth, the off season being not what it was and building of neighborhoods everywhere has changed the trades enormously in the last 4 years. Making it darn near impossible to get anyone that you don't have a long term relationship with to provide any quality services to a home/property owner, and of course Horry County govt doesn't make anything easy unless you're a developer building a "neighborhood."

I have no experience about what you're up against building wise, but as a half-back transient, raised in South Florida, dragged by parents to New England in the 70's over the concrete jungle that South Florida was becoming and we are now experiencing here, and then returning here (halfway back) where I planned to finish my life in peace. I hope your dream goes as planned and wish you the best of luck with your obstacles.

You'll get good advice here, some uncalled for criticism and god knows what else. Sift thru it carefully and take the negative with a grain of salt. I'm sure there will be excellent advice offered.

Well, hey neighbor! Yes, unfortunately, we are paying 6% on this property, rather than the 4% like on our primary residence, but to have a place to grow my own food and relax away from the crazy at the beach, it’s worth it. The zoning department was AWFUL our first time around with this whole thing. I am not a fan of Horry County OR Myrtle Beach local government (don’t even get me started on that topic!), so I just want as little contact with them as possible. They make me crazy. Ugh! Hopefully, we can get through this thing without them challenging it as a barn (the man who helped us this time around with the current permit was actually very nice, but that was after the entire debacle the first time around!), which the back half of the building truly is, of course. We don’t plan to live there, and nobody else will be either, so let’s hope things go off without a hitch from this point forward. By the way. I absolutely love Conway! We’ve thought about selling in Myrtle and moving there many times. It might still happen!

 

[bobg03]

Well, hey neighbor! Yes, unfortunately, we are paying 6% on this property, rather than the 4% like on our primary residence, but to have a place to grow my own food and relax away from the crazy at the beach, it’s worth it. The zoning department was AWFUL our first time around with this whole thing. I am not a fan of Horry County OR Myrtle Beach local government (don’t even get me started on that topic!), so I just want as little contact with them as possible. They make me crazy. Ugh! Hopefully, we can get through this thing without them challenging it as a barn (the man who helped us this time around with the current permit was actually very nice, but that was after the entire debacle the first time around!), which the back half of the building truly is, of course. We don’t plan to live there, and nobody else will be either, so let’s hope things go off without a hitch from this point forward. By the way. I absolutely love Conway! We’ve thought about selling in Myrtle and moving there many times. It might still happen!

Luv, my 4% and my Homestead, a tad disilussioned with the growth the last few years. Luv my location in the City of Conway tho and don't think I could do any better elsewhere so I here I stay. I'll never have a development on top of me like some of the lots I looked at on Hwy 90 and the Bear Bluff road area. I was given good guidance and am forever grateful for that.

 

[Mike65]

Lisa, my wife & I had a 24'x25' metal garage/shop built 2/22 & had it spray foam insulation applied. I was originally going to cover it with sheet rock. The company that did the spray foam asked why I was going to cover it, & I stated because I thought it needed to be covered. He told me that it was not necessary as long as I paint it. If you do not cover it or paint it where the sun comes in contact with it for a while it will degrade. I found the brightest white & using an electric sprayer I painted the walls up to 10' high & since the sun doesn't hit the foam any higher then that I left the rest unpainted. After all it is just a garage/workshop. Here are some pics while painting, & after I was done. With the addition of LED lights at the peak of the ceiling, & on the sides it is very bright inside.

 

[LisaJ]

Luv, my 4% and my Homestead, a tad disilussioned with the growth the last few years. Luv my location in the City of Conway tho and don't think I could do any better elsewhere so I here I stay. I'll never have a development on top of me like some of the lots I looked at on Hwy 90 and the Bear Bluff road area. I was given good guidance and am forever grateful for that.

That’s awesome! It’s so great to love where you live. I grew up in Myrtle (since I was 10 years old), so it’s home to me, but I miss the old Grand Strand so much. It’s changing so quickly. That’s one of the reasons we bought these two farm properties in Loris. At some point, I know it’s going to be time to leave the beach, but but I don’t think I’ll ever be fully ready to give up Horry County, even when we move to the mountains, so at least this way, we will have land in the area to come back and visit. One day.

 

[LisaJ]

Lisa, my wife & I had a 24'x25' metal garage/shop built 2/22 & had it spray foam insulation applied. I was originally going to cover it with sheet rock. The company that did the spray foam asked why I was going to cover it, & I stated because I thought it needed to be covered. He told me that it was not necessary as long as I paint it. If you do not cover it or paint it where the sun comes in contact with it for a while it will degrade. I found the brightest white & using an electric sprayer I painted the walls up to 10' high & since the sun doesn't hit the foam any higher then that I left the rest unpainted. After all it is just a garage/workshop. Here are some pics while painting, & after I was done. With the addition of LED lights at the peak of the ceiling, & on the sides it is very bright inside.

This is INCREDIBLY helpful info, and thank you for the photos. This answers another of my questions about leaving the spray foam exposed in the barn portion of the building. So that’s exactly what I’m going to do! One more question… is there a certain type of paint that has to be used?

 

[LisaJ]

This is INCREDIBLY helpful info, and thank you for the photos. This answers another of my questions about leaving the spray foam exposed in the barn portion of the building. So that’s exactly what I’m going to do! One more question… is there a certain type of paint that has to be used?

Oh and one more thing. If I don’t cover the spray foam, I can’t hang anything directly from the foam, right?

 

[drmarkr]

I want to second what others have said about finding a general contractor to assist. Preferably one with steel building experience/barnominium experience if possible. You asked about using steel siding for the interior...this is a pic of the interior of my shop, using white AG panel. They were taken before we completely finished the interior, but it gives you an idea. It's a very clean look, and WAY cheaper than drywall. Also, if you google "hay bale home construction", you'll find some nice photo's of what your windows will look like with a "deep" frameout. It looks pretty cool, IMO.

 

[drmarkr]

Google will also show you some shops with the ceiling finished in panels like this. My ceiling is batting insulation covered with white liner using wire supports. "Industrial" look, but this might work for you as well? If you zoom in on the pics above you can see it pretty well.

 

[Youngandfree]

Oh and one more thing. If I don’t cover the spray foam, I can’t hang anything directly from the foam, right?

Correct

 

[LisaJ]

I want to second what others have said about finding a general contractor to assist. Preferably one with steel building experience/barnominium experience if possible. You asked about using steel siding for the interior...this is a pic of the interior of my shop, using white AG panel. They were taken before we completely finished the interior, but it gives you an idea. It's a very clean look, and WAY cheaper than drywall. Also, if you google "hay bale home construction", you'll find some nice photo's of what your windows will look like with a "deep" frameout. It looks pretty cool, IMO.

Oh. My. Gosh. I am 100% obsessed with this look! Ahhhh. Ok, tell me everything. Is there spray foam behind the metal sheets? Where do you find them? How are they attached to the building? Do they have to have a wooden frame built behind them to attach them to the building, or would they be able to be attached directly to the metal posts/beams? I need to know everything! Thank you so much for sharing!

 

[LisaJ]

I want to second what others have said about finding a general contractor to assist. Preferably one with steel building experience/barnominium experience if possible. You asked about using steel siding for the interior...this is a pic of the interior of my shop, using white AG panel. They were taken before we completely finished the interior, but it gives you an idea. It's a very clean look, and WAY cheaper than drywall. Also, if you google "hay bale home construction", you'll find some nice photo's of what your windows will look like with a "deep" frameout. It looks pretty cool, IMO.

Oooooh! And I just looked at the hay bale construction you suggested I search, and I do so love how the recessed windows look! I’m so freaking excited right now! Thank you for all of this info. I will be waiting with bated breath to learn more about those metal panels! If they don’t require all of the extensive wood framing behind them, I’m going to do those on two of the walls on the ends of the building, in the loft, and possibly above the wood on the sides. Maybe just painted spray foam on the ceiling and in part of the back?

 

[KSJeff]

Yes, yes, yes! I *think* this is part of the potential solution that I found on a video at around 4am this morning. If you get time, would you watch this video and see if this is similar to what you are referencing and what you had in mind?

Yes, that's what I had in mind. Not sure what the cheapest wall solution is that you can find, but that's probably the chepest way to get in the support behind it to screw to. I suppose it's possible you could find a wall solution to without the backing, but I'd feel better with it.

 

[Mike65]

Oh and one more thing. If I don’t cover the spray foam, I can’t hang anything directly from the foam, right?

Correct. I just hang stuff from the metal beams. Use a good self-drilling screw & you are good. IAs far as the paint I just used the brightest white interior paint I could find.

 

[jonesg]

Maybe that $40K cost increase wasn't unreasonable.

 

[cannuck]

Lisa, my wife & I had a 24'x25' metal garage/shop built 2/22 & had it spray foam insulation applied. I was originally going to cover it with sheet rock. The company that did the spray foam asked why I was going to cover it, & I stated because I thought it needed to be covered. He told me that it was not necessary as long as I paint it. If you do not cover it or paint it where the sun comes in contact with it for a while it will degrade. I found the brightest white & using an electric sprayer I painted the walls up to 10' high & since the sun doesn't hit the foam any higher then that I left the rest unpainted. After all it is just a garage/workshop.

Yes, you can indeed paint PU foam, but check fire codes carefully before you select material. Here, we are REQUIRED to use fire retardant coatings, and a fair bit more expensive than regular paint. Also: even if not required by code, something to think about when it comes to personal and property safety. I did the foam on ceiling of my 1,000 sq. ft. shop last year (VERY messy even though contractor did a lot of masking) and it was a couple grand for materials.

 

[Sumboodie]

How think are the beams, 12"? I'd be inclined to build the interior walls short of those.
That's how they did the building I work in. Walls are about a foot thick. Makes for nice window sills and plenty of room for installation (gets down to -60*)

 

[LisaJ]

Yes, that's what I had in mind. Not sure what the cheapest wall solution is that you can find, but that's probably the chepest way to get in the support behind it to screw to. I suppose it's possible you could find a wall solution to without the backing, but I'd feel better with it.

Thank you so much! I’m so pumped!

 

[sjvicker]

Given that this isn't a residence, If I was in your position, here's what I'd do.

*1 - give your windows a good wash. Verify they aren't leaking water to the inside. If they leak, ignore everything I'm saying.

1. Commit to the idea that you're going to need to wood frame out to the edges of the columns on side walls and wood frame end walls, redo some steel posts around the windows and likely redo a bit of spray foam.
2. Figure out where you want your toilet/shower and sink (or sinks). I'm assuming this is meant to just be a one bath building with a sink so the plumbing is simpler.
3. get the plumbing installed. If you've only paid them to install the grinder pump and do the sewer connection then have them only go as far as a stub out that your next phase of plumbing can connect to.
4. Have the building spray foamed with closed cell foam.
5. Now you dont have money out there and contractors waiting so those stressors are gone. This is your time to regroup and build a better plan.


6. Now is the time to fix that framing around the windows. Contact a few local companies that do these kind of buildings and discuss your options. You may even decide that you're ok with the post being so close to the window if it were covered up with sheetrock. It's not like it goes directly over a window or anything.
7. Focus on your framing plan. Because you'd be bumping your framing out to the edges of your posts and stick framing the end walls, this will give you a spot for your future electrical runs.
8. framing
9. electrical
10. hvac (mini splits?)
11. sheetrock & finishes.

 

[CraigStu]

Thinking out loud here because I don't know the answer but how about running steel panel horizontally. It 'looks like' your posts are about 4ft apart. Could steel panel be run across the inner most post surfaces so you end up w/ a foot thick wall that is completely flat and hiding the posts? I don't know how many varieties of steel panel there are but maybe paying extra for extra strong panel could eliminate the need for plywood or similar under it? Or use the standard interior steel panel w/ plywood behind it just for the bottom 6-8 ft. That would add strength to absorb someone bumping into the panel. Assuming nothing would contact the wall above 8ft, steel panel by itself could work?

 

[LisaJ]

Thinking out loud here because I don't know the answer but how about running steel panel horizontally. It 'looks like' your posts are about 4ft apart. Could steel panel be run across the inner most post surfaces so you end up w/ a foot thick wall that is completely flat and hiding the posts? I don't know how many varieties of steel panel there are but maybe paying extra for extra strong panel could eliminate the need for plywood or similar under it? Or use the standard interior steel panel w/ plywood behind it just for the bottom 6-8 ft. That would add strength to absorb someone bumping into the panel. Assuming nothing would contact the wall above 8ft, steel panel by itself could work?

I love this idea! I definitely would like to avoid wood framing, if possible. This is a very good idea!

 

[My Old Tools]

Probably should have gone red iron. I-beam frame would have been far less intrusive.

 

[LisaJ]

Probably should have gone red iron. I-beam frame would have been far less intrusive.

Well, it’s too late now, so I’m working with what I’ve got.

 

[LisaJ]

Given that this isn't a residence, If I was in your position, here's what I'd do.

*1 - give your windows a good wash. Verify they aren't leaking water to the inside. If they leak, ignore everything I'm saying.

1. Commit to the idea that you're going to need to wood frame out to the edges of the columns on side walls and wood frame end walls, redo some steel posts around the windows and likely redo a bit of spray foam.
2. Figure out where you want your toilet/shower and sink (or sinks). I'm assuming this is meant to just be a one bath building with a sink so the plumbing is simpler.
3. get the plumbing installed. If you've only paid them to install the grinder pump and do the sewer connection then have them only go as far as a stub out that your next phase of plumbing can connect to.
4. Have the building spray foamed with closed cell foam.
5. Now you dont have money out there and contractors waiting so those stressors are gone. This is your time to regroup and build a better plan.


6. Now is the time to fix that framing around the windows. Contact a few local companies that do these kind of buildings and discuss your options. You may even decide that you're ok with the post being so close to the window if it were covered up with sheetrock. It's not like it goes directly over a window or anything.
7. Focus on your framing plan. Because you'd be bumping your framing out to the edges of your posts and stick framing the end walls, this will give you a spot for your future electrical runs.
8. framing
9. electrical
10. hvac (mini splits?)
11. sheetrock & finishes.

Thank you. Working on this list now. I think I’ve got a solution for the posts and the windows. I will know more tomorrow after I meet with a builder. Meeting with the plumber next week, and then we will meet with the plumber engineer and the electrician all together, so we won’t make any mistakes. Say a prayer. Lol.

 

[LisaJ]

How think are the beams, 12"? I'd be inclined to build the interior walls short of those.
That's how they did the building I work in. Walls are about a foot thick. Makes for nice window sills and plenty of room for installation (gets down to -60*)

Hmmm. I’m not sure how thick the beams are. I will measure when I’m out there tomorrow. Would you mind posting a photo of yours? I would love to see how it looks.

 

[BombShelter]

Blank slates can be very exciting, I'd embrace what you have and work with it. I'm getting a movie studio or music venue vibe, I'd go with cool lights and big hanging speakers. Covering the supports might be an expensive fail or silly money costs. I work in old factories and maybe trying to go more for a vintage steel construction look might be more interesting. Dark brown stain and some fake rivets to bling out what you already have.

We had a designer/bar owner up here that had world-class talent of blending metal, brick, wood and art into great spaces, look up The Varsity Theatre in Dinkytown or the restaurant that was just down the street, Loring Pasta Bar and check out the photos on google.

He had a knack of taking rocks and industrial pieces and making them look great, his bathroom designs earned national awards. Unfortunately he ran into some legal trouble and disappeared.

 

[LisaJ]

Blank slates can be very exciting, I'd embrace what you have and work with it. I'm getting a movie studio or music venue vibe, I'd go with cool lights and big hanging speakers. Covering the supports might be an expensive fail or silly money costs. I work in old factories and maybe trying to go more for a vintage steel construction look might be more interesting. Dark brown stain and some fake rivets to bling out what you already have.

We had a designer/bar owner up here that had world-class talent of blending metal, brick, wood and art into great spaces, look up The Varsity Theatre in Dinkytown or the restaurant that was just down the street, Loring Pasta Bar and check out the photos on google.

He had a knack of taking rocks and industrial pieces and making them look great, his bathroom designs earned national awards. Unfortunately he ran into some legal trouble and disappeared.

Oooooh. I’m intrigued. Our main residence is really funky and has a weird, artsy vibe, so I’m totally open to “different”. I normally know exactly what I want and have a solid plan before I start something, so doing a project “backwards” like we are doing with this “barn” has really pulled out some anxiety in me. However, I am kind of getting a vision now, so I’m feeling slightly better after some of the suggestions and ideas I’ve received. Thanks for your comment! I’m going to check out The Varsity Theater now. I’m always up for some inspiration. Thanks again for pumping me up!

 

[LisaJ]

Blank slates can be very exciting, I'd embrace what you have and work with it. I'm getting a movie studio or music venue vibe, I'd go with cool lights and big hanging speakers. Covering the supports might be an expensive fail or silly money costs. I work in old factories and maybe trying to go more for a vintage steel construction look might be more interesting. Dark brown stain and some fake rivets to bling out what you already have.

We had a designer/bar owner up here that had world-class talent of blending metal, brick, wood and art into great spaces, look up The Varsity Theatre in Dinkytown or the restaurant that was just down the street, Loring Pasta Bar and check out the photos on google.

He had a knack of taking rocks and industrial pieces and making them look great, his bathroom designs earned national awards. Unfortunately he ran into some legal trouble and disappeared.

I just checked out the place you mentioned. VERY cool! It’s giving Moulin Rouge mixed with Manhattan underground.

 

[Sumboodie]

Hmmm. I’m not sure how thick the beams are. I will measure when I’m out there tomorrow. Would you mind posting a photo of yours? I would love to see how it looks.

Imagine a wall.

 

[LisaJ]

Maybe that $40K cost increase wasn't unreasonable.

Well, it was a 24’ x 24’ garage with the same size studio apartment above it (under 600sf total), with a large raised porch (not covered) for $185k, and we already owned the property… so nah, I don’t think so.

 

[LisaJ]

Yes, you can indeed paint PU foam, but check fire codes carefully before you select material. Here, we are REQUIRED to use fire retardant coatings, and a fair bit more expensive than regular paint. Also: even if not required by code, something to think about when it comes to personal and property safety. I did the foam on ceiling of my 1,000 sq. ft. shop last year (VERY messy even though contractor did a lot of masking) and it was a couple grand for materials.

Definitely want to be fire-safe, so whatever it takes to make that happen, for sure. I agree that we need to think of our personal property being safe.