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Advice on Bendpak 2 post

killahog

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I need a little advise
, I have narrowed do the lift I am going to buy to a XPR 10A I found one for sale locally it was manufactured in 2011 but never installed or removed from the shipping packaging. I was told it does not have the truck adapters with it. Now the issue is I was given a price of 2600.00 delivered for that one. The lift is beyond the warranty period. I was also quoted a price of 2865 for a brand new one here thru the group buy. The question is should I be concerned about this 2011 model that has been in storage for 3 years, or pay the extra 285.00$ for the new one and be covered by the warranty.
 
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killahog

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bmx, The seals are what I am concerned about, but I really dont have any experiance with that sort of thing thats why I am asking for input. Thanks
 

RandyL

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Not even a race............... Buy the new one.

I wouldn't give more than 1800 tops for the 3 year old unit...even then I might not do it. A bad pump, wrong hose kit, on and on...you could be out another grand and still no warranty. The more I think about it..maybe 1500 tops... I'd rather buy a used one that is up and running than an old stored unit that you have no idea if it is all there or will work. Bad...........idea.

Randy
 
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killahog

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Thanks for the advice randy, I am going to buy one from the group buy on this board. If anyone else is interested in the lift it's for sale on Craigslist Mansfield Ohio.
 

RandyL

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I set my xpr10A up in the wide mode..I had the width on the floor to do that. I love it!!!

Randy
 

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killahog

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Nice looking Garage Randy, The next time your in your garage can you do me a favor and raise the lift all the way up and measure the clearance from the floor to the bottom of the arms. I am trying to decide where to position the lift and if I had enough room to walk under it without hitting my head it would really help. thanks Tony
 

pattenp

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I set my xpr10A up in the wide mode..I had the width on the floor to do that. I love it!!!

Randy

Did you set the post with the power unit on the driver front inside for a reason? Normally the columns are set with the power unit on the passenger side to the outside.
 

my58dodge

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I need a little advise
, I have narrowed do the lift I am going to buy to a XPR 10A I found one for sale locally it was manufactured in 2011 but never installed or removed from the shipping packaging. I was told it does not have the truck adapters with it. Now the issue is I was given a price of 2600.00 delivered for that one. The lift is beyond the warranty period. I was also quoted a price of 2865 for a brand new one here thru the group buy. The question is should I be concerned about this 2011 model that has been in storage for 3 years, or pay the extra 285.00$ for the new one and be covered by the warranty.

I have this same lift, purchased new March 2011. Correct, it does not come with truck adapters. I wouldn't be afraid of purchasing this, as long as it wasn't stored outside or in poor condition in any way. 3 years is not that old. But not for $2600.00. I can see this being a good buy at 1600-1800 dollars.
 

RandyL

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I did set the controls of the left / drivers side on purpose. My main power supply in the building is straight ahead of that upright which is nice, but not the main reason, just a plus. I wanted it on the drivers side of the vehicle for convenience. I can drive the car on, set the lift arms...raise a bit, then open drivers door to release park brake, put in neutral...whatever, then continue the raise with no running around the vehicle. I really could not imagine it on the other side unless I were English or Aussie.. : )
Had to lengthen the wire to the overhead safety wire..but that was all... The control unit does not intrude into the interior width of the lift like I thought it might. It is perfect like this.

I will make the measurement you ask..probably be out there Sunday. Keep in mind that the unit comes with extension like shown in above pic (jeep ) these set the underbody height when lifted..how tall are you??? I'm 6-1 with no problem. I have been under lifts my entire life so I might be used to scrunching...: )

Randy
 

RandyL

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Bottom of lift arms to floor measure 69.5 inch........

Here are a couple shots of the controls on the "drivers side" column.

Randy
 

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pattenp

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I wanted it on the drivers side of the vehicle for convenience. I can drive the car on, set the lift arms...raise a bit, then open drivers door to release park brake, put in neutral...whatever, then continue the raise with no running around the vehicle. I really could not imagine it on the other side unless I were English or Aussie.. : )

Randy

Believe it or not, lift manufactures designed the power unit placement on the passenger side from studying the most efficient placement in a working shop environment. It was found that after pulling in the vehicle, setting the driver side arms first and then setting the passenger side arms and then raising the vehicle while on the passenger side was the most efficient. So actually you have your lift set up for the UK or AU. But you're not operating a auto repair business so what ever works for you is all that matters. I was just curious.
 
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killahog

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Randy, Thanks for the measurement if I was to walk thru your garage when the arms all the way up I would have 1 inch of clearance above my head. I am just about to put the money down on that exact lift. So far the price in the group buy on this forum is the best i can find.
 

pattenp

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Do you plan on leaving the lift in the up position as the normal thing when not in use? I question that being a good thing because it leaves the polished cylinder rams exposed for extended periods and may make them prone to rust if you're in a humid climate. Just thinking without knowing where you live.
 

RandyL

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Do you plan on leaving the lift in the up position as the normal thing when not in use? I question that being a good thing because it leaves the polished cylinder rams exposed for extended periods and may make them prone to rust if you're in a humid climate. Just thinking without knowing where you live.


Good point on not leaving it up..things rust quickly around here.

The setting of the arms is not the only factor when using a lift...The vehicle repairs are much easier with the controls on the drivers side. I had read what you speak of but have found it not correct in real life use. I agree that it is user prefference, it is nice equipment no matter how you set it up.

Randy
 

RandyL

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pattenp....and all, I'm going to do a thread of rust prevention etc...hope you will have some thoughts on it also.... sorry for stealing this thread for a moment.
 

gnxtc2

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I would buy new.

What type of vehicles are you planning on lifting?

Love my XPR-10. I had custom truck adapters made to clean running boards on trucks. With a symetrical lift, the controls don't matter because the vehicle can face either way.

DSC_0426_zps113af8a5.jpg


Billy T.
[email protected]
 
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killahog

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The advise on used VRS new was taken, I ordered a new Bendpak XPR10A I intend to set it up in the assymetrical configuration . I could use a little help in determining exactly where to position it. The thing im trying to figure out is how far the truck I currently own will extend out past the posts. The lift will most often be used for small sedans though. I have used the instructions on the Bendpak website and determined the COG to be 98 inches back from the front bumper. This measurment is just rear of the front of the truck bed. The question I have is where will this put the front of the truck in relation to the posts. Thanks for the help
 
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gnxtc2

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The advise on used VRS new was taken, I ordered a new Bendpak XPR10A I intend to set it up in the assymetrical configuration . I could use a little help in determining exactly where to position it. The thing im trying to figure out is how far the truck I currently own will extend out past the posts. The lift will most often be used for small sedans though. I have used the instructions on the Bendpak website and determined the COG to be 98 inches back from the front bumper. This measurment is just rear of the front of the truck bed. The question I have is where will this put the front of the truck in relation to the posts. Thanks for the help
What kind of truck?

Symmetrical lifts are better suited for trucks especially long wheelbase ones.

Billy T.
[email protected]
 
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killahog

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The Truck is a 1/2 to. Silverado extended cab with a leer cap over the bed. I will be lifting mostly mid size sedans such as Accord,Civic and Corrola's . As far as the group buy I will post the info when I find it again . I really shopped around for the best price and haggled so much I pissed off a couple salesmen . From all the research I did the group buy cam in several hundred lower than anywhere else.
 

gnxtc2

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I like the Symmetrical lifts better because you can face the vehicle either way.

There is going to be huge overhang on the back end with the Silverado up in the air. With the asymmetrical lifts, you can open the doors easier.

Billy T.
[email protected]
 
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killahog

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Billy unless I am missing something, I am assuming that if I mount the lift in the asymmetrical configuration I will be able to position the truck either centered or with a rear offset as indicated in the picture. If anyone has a XPR10A could you please confirm. Thanks
 
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575cat

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Go by the vehicle position book that is what it is for or you will start tweaking the hoist .
 

RandyL

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When you say "mount the lift", are you speaking of when you install the lift or when you are postioning the vehicle on the lift to raise it?

The XPR-10A can only be installed as assymetrical, that is what the "A" stands for on the end of the part number.. The XPR-10 is a symetrical, no "A" on the part number. The lift is manufactured one way or the other. It is not user choice. The XPR-10A can be installed in 2 different widths however, that is user choice.

I have the "A" model..when I pick my cab and a half Tundra up.. I drive up until my outside mirrors are about in line with the front edge of the lift posts, that gets me very close to where I want to be.

Randy
 

Aquaticbob

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I have an XPR-10 and a few XPR-10a's and I do prefer the 10a's by a decent margin. Also, in terms of price you can get them for $2860 all day long without a group buy. Haven't read the rest of the thread, so not sure if anyone else has made that comment or has a better price
 

brownbagg

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Do you plan on leaving the lift in the up position as the normal thing when not in use? I question that being a good thing because it leaves the polished cylinder rams exposed for extended periods and may make them prone to rust if you're in a humid climate. Just thinking without knowing where you live.

the rams are stainless. mine been outside 12 years and no rust
 

Aquaticbob

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Thanks for the clarification Randy, Bob can you explain why you prefer the 10A .


I have 25 foot long bays, with 20 ft of driveway room behind each of them, so if I have a truck loaded up, worst case is it sits a little in the driveway. It allows me to keep at least 5 ft of space between the front of the biggest trucks and the wall. Thats enough room for a bench, tool box, and person to work.

I also like that you can open the door a little further because of the angle of the posts. With the symmetrical I have noticed I can't open the door as far. And for those of larger width, that can be key. I think it might also be easier to align a car into the 10a
 
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killahog

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I am going to start moving toward the Installation of the XPR 10A I could use some help with the electrical wiring. I am not an electrician thats probably obvious just by the starting of the thread but I don't think this is going is going to be difficult I just need some help getting started. The barn is about 60 yards from my house and their is a 50 amp breaker in the house that controls the power to the barn. The lift will be a Bendpak XPR10A 2 post. I don't have the manual yet so I don't know what supply is necessary. I expect to have to run about 60 feet of wire from the box to the lift. All the wiring inside the shop is run with Romex so unless its necessary to run conduit I really don't want to. Can someone advise what guage wire is going to be necessary and what amp breaker .
 

Aquaticbob

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I am going to start moving toward the Installation of the XPR 10A I could use some help with the electrical wiring. I am not an electrician thats probably obvious just by the starting of the thread but I don't think this is going is going to be difficult I just need some help getting started. The barn is about 60 yards from my house and their is a 50 amp breaker in the house that controls the power to the barn. The lift will be a Bendpak XPR10A 2 post. I don't have the manual yet so I don't know what supply is necessary. I expect to have to run about 60 feet of wire from the box to the lift. All the wiring inside the shop is run with Romex so unless its necessary to run conduit I really don't want to. Can someone advise what guage wire is going to be necessary and what amp breaker .


Bendpak has the manuals online. I believe they are 30amp breakers. You may want to increase the amps in your panel to your barn

http://www.bendpak.com/XPR-10-10A REV A 01-03-11.pdf

Yours will be revision D if you got it brand new. The instructions I believe are very similar. The motors are a little different though. I'll be at my shop tomorrow, I'll grab some pictures out of the manual
 
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killahog

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Bendpak has the manuals online. I believe they are 30amp breakers. You may want to increase the amps in your panel to your barn

http://www.bendpak.com/XPR-10-10A REV A 01-03-11.pdf

Yours will be revision D if you got it brand new. The instructions I believe are very similar. The motors are a little different though. I'll be at my shop tomorrow, I'll grab some pictures out of the manual

Thanks for the info Bob . How would I go about (Increasing the Amps to the Barn) .
 

Aquaticbob

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Thanks for the info Bob . How would I go about (Increasing the Amps to the Barn) .


You'll need to increase the service to the panel. I'm not an electrical expert so don't quote me on this, but I'm pretty sure you need to talk to the power company about additional service. My shop just added 100 amps and the power company had to add another meter in
 
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killahog

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Thanks Bob, I need to contact an electrician to determine what it would entail to increase the power. Thats something I didn't consider before ordering the lift. Now that you raised that point I am thinking I will probably be running the shop at full electrical capacity, with a welder, The exact Miller advertised on this home website page. a plasma ,lift and compressor running. The only thing that might save me is I can't be doing any of those thing while operating the lift except for the compressor running. Tony
 

Aquaticbob

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Thanks Bob, I need to contact an electrician to determine what it would entail to increase the power. Thats something I didn't consider before ordering the lift. Now that you raised that point I am thinking I will probably be running the shop at full electrical capacity, with a welder, The exact Miller advertised on this home website page. a plasma ,lift and compressor running. The only thing that might save me is I can't be doing any of those thing while operating the lift except for the compressor running. Tony


95690cf8fbfec10e547efb361ca3e7ed.jpg


I would suggest have 100 amps available at the least. You're gonna have things plugged in and also be running while other heavier use things run. I would expect you to run into issues at 50
 

EarlyBroncoGuy

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Billy unless I am missing something, I am assuming that if I mount the lift in the asymmetrical configuration I will be able to position the truck either centered or with a rear offset as indicated in the picture. If anyone has a XPR10A could you please confirm. Thanks

I have an XPR-10A set up in the wide configuration. I put my 2001 extended cab GMC Sierra on it with the columns centered about where the dash/steering wheel is, with the long arms extended to where the front of the leaf spring hangers are. With the lift arms raised up as far as they go (rams contacting the top plate of the posts) I can't quite walk under the arms, and I'm 5'11".
 
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