Affordable Multiple Feature DMM

[zendriver]

Looking to configure my gen to the house, now obsessed with "inrush" current, hertz, etc. to map out what's what.

Searching around, this seemed to pop up a lot and has quite a few YT reviews. Considered one from HF, but with the inrush capability, runs $90. name brand stuff even more. Went for it, seems pretty solid and well made. Nice solid probes and included thermocouple (it reads temps) Bright screen. Built in light not really all that, better maybe than nothing. Tested clamped amps (and inrush) with generator/garage juice and two different bench grinders. (FWIW) measures approximately the same as old HF DMM. Thermocouple reads ambient temps not further tested.

This is quick results from turning on and using auto mode.


It's $30 bucks. Not sure how it would hold up to daily (not as solid feeling as my 35 yo Fluke DMM) use, but seems pretty sturdy.

TESMEN TCM-300A Digital Clamp Meter 6000 Counts T-RMS multimeter Auto-Ranging Voltmeter ampmeter with AC Current AC/DC Voltage NCV/Live Wire Inrush Resistance Diode Temperature Continuity – BLUE

Multifunctional Smart Clamp Meter: The TCM-300A digital clamp meter features both smart and manual measurement modes, allowing for precise measurement of AC current, Capacitance, AC/DC voltage, NCV(non-contact voltage testing), Inrush, Live, Resistance, Diodes, Continuity, Frequency, and...

tesmen.com

 

[Hohn]

Not bad. I went with Uni-T for clamp/inrush and have no regrets at the mildly higher cost.

For core DMM, I'm still running the Brymen and I'm SUPER happy with it.

 

[mark-NJ]

I stick with Fluke for all my meters for one reason & one reason only: Excellent fusing. When I mess up and set it for amps and try to check voltage (c'mon...admit it: we've all done it), that fast-fuse blows instantly.

Ever seen a cheap meter hand grenade? I have. Not pretty. I had a co-worker wind up losing sight in one eye & bad burns all over his face. Yes, he had it set wrong, but it was a cheap un-fused meter.

As my dad used to say, "If you have a 5 dollar brain, buy a 5 dollar helmet". For me, it's Fluke & nothing but Fluke.

 

[richfinn]

I stick with Fluke for all my meters for one reason & one reason only: Excellent fusing. When I mess up and set it for amps and try to check voltage (c'mon...admit it: we've all done it), that fast-fuse blows instantly.

Ever seen a cheap meter hand grenade? I have. Not pretty. I had a co-worker wind up losing sight in one eye & bad burns all over his face. Yes, he had it set wrong, but it was a cheap un-fused meter.

As my dad used to say, "If you have a 5 dollar brain, buy a 5 dollar helmet". For me, it's Fluke & nothing but Fluke.

Yeah, but this discussion is about a non intrusive clamp meter, you don't need to break the circuit or switch jacks to measure current.

 

[signcrafter]

Is there a special setting for inrush or just set to amps and watch? I have a fluke I use in the shop but wanted a portable clamp meter for carrying with me for auto/house use and went with this one. It's been a nice little unit.

UNI-T UT210E Mini Digital Clamp Meter 100A AC DC Current Voltage True RMS Pliers Ammeter Resistance, Capacitance, Diode Tester Multimeter: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

UNI-T UT210E Mini Digital Clamp Meter 100A AC DC Current Voltage True RMS Pliers Ammeter Resistance, Capacitance, Diode Tester Multimeter: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

 

[zendriver]

Is there a special setting for inrush or just set to amps and watch? I have a fluke I use in the shop but wanted a portable clamp meter for carrying with me for auto/house use and went with this one. It's been a nice little unit.

UNI-T UT210E Mini Digital Clamp Meter 100A AC DC Current Voltage True RMS Pliers Ammeter Resistance, Capacitance, Diode Tester Multimeter: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

UNI-T UT210E Mini Digital Clamp Meter 100A AC DC Current Voltage True RMS Pliers Ammeter Resistance, Capacitance, Diode Tester Multimeter: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

Just press a button and it logs the highest reading until you press the button again

 

[joel63]

Looking to configure my gen to the house, now obsessed with "inrush" current, hertz, etc. to map out what's what.

Searching around, this seemed to pop up a lot and has quite a few YT reviews. Considered one from HF, but with the inrush capability, runs $90. name brand stuff even more. Went for it, seems pretty solid and well made. Nice solid probes and included thermocouple (it reads temps) Bright screen. Built in light not really all that, better maybe than nothing. Tested clamped amps (and inrush) with generator/garage juice and two different bench grinders. (FWIW) measures approximately the same as old HF DMM. Thermocouple reads ambient temps not further tested.

This is quick results from turning on and using auto mode.


It's $30 bucks. Not sure how it would hold up to daily (not as solid feeling as my 35 yo Fluke DMM) use, but seems pretty sturdy.

TESMEN TCM-300A Digital Clamp Meter 6000 Counts T-RMS multimeter Auto-Ranging Voltmeter ampmeter with AC Current AC/DC Voltage NCV/Live Wire Inrush Resistance Diode Temperature Continuity – BLUE

Multifunctional Smart Clamp Meter: The TCM-300A digital clamp meter features both smart and manual measurement modes, allowing for precise measurement of AC current, Capacitance, AC/DC voltage, NCV(non-contact voltage testing), Inrush, Live, Resistance, Diodes, Continuity, Frequency, and...

tesmen.com

Nice looking multimeter. Only question is fused protected?

 

[zendriver]

Nice looking multimeter. Only question is fused protected?

Doesn’t appear to be but looking at a similar fluke, AFAIK no fuse in it either. 376FC not positive

Maybe they do things different i. The 21st-century

 

[bwringer]

So fuses are an exotic alien technology known only to Fluke?

Riiiiight.

Wish I had known that. I've revived more than one mid-market meter with a fresh fuse and a screwdriver. I even recall finding a handy spare fuse in one when I opened it up. Craftsman, I think, made by who-knows. But it was (and still is) a perfectly cromulent meter.

 

[zendriver]

So fuses are an exotic alien technology known only to Fluke?

Riiiiight.

Wish I had known that. I've revived more than one mid-market meter with a fresh fuse and a screwdriver. I even recall finding a handy spare fuse in one when I opened it up. Craftsman, I think, made by who-knows. But it was (and still is) a perfectly cromulent meter.

Geez I wasn’t shitting on fuses

Just stated maybe they use other technology now days

Kinda like fuses vs circuit breakers :

 

[joel63]

I looked at a couple of Flukes, couldn't find any Fused protection. SMH.

 

[jayemm]

So fuses are an exotic alien technology known only to Fluke?

Riiiiight.

Wish I had known that. I've revived more than one mid-market meter with a fresh fuse and a screwdriver. I even recall finding a handy spare fuse in one when I opened it up. Craftsman, I think, made by who-knows. But it was (and still is) a perfectly cromulent meter.

I'm with you there. Had a few ($40 or less) Radio Shack meters in the past and they had a spare fuse in the battery compartment with a small pull ribbon to remove it from the fuse holder. Also had a Fluke and managed to blow the expensive fuse a couple of times just with household voltage.
Fuse availability can be a pain in the ***. My most recent meter is a Uni-T UT61D+ which after purchase discovered it uses BS1362 6mmX25mm sand filled ceramic fuses. Love the meter but had to search for spare fuses. Apparently these fuses are common in the UK where they are incorporated into the plug of the electrical cord. And like many things these days are also counterfeited so I avoided ebay sourcing. Ended up ordering some spares from Newark Electronics where the shipping exceeded the cost of the fuses. So it goes.

 

[jayemm]

I looked at a couple of Flukes, couldn't find any Fused protection. SMH.

I had a Fluke 115 where the case must be taken apart to access the fuse inside. I think Fluke does this for safety to help contain a high energy arc. I don't think Fluke puts fuses accessible in the battery compartment. Others here could elaborate on this. That was my only experience with a Fluke DMM.

 

[Wrench97]

 

[Wrench97]

Uni-T is a decent lower priced meter.

 

[zendriver]

I had a Fluke 115 where the case must be taken apart to access the fuse inside. I think Fluke does this for safety to help contain a high energy arc. I don't think Fluke puts fuses accessible in the battery compartment. Others here could elaborate on this. That was my only experience with a Fluke DMM.

They generally put something in the user manual, if it had a fuse and where it is located. Your model does.

376 FC no mention of a fuse at all in the user manual.

AI

The Fluke 376 FC clamp meter doesn't have a readily replaceable fuse like a multimeter. It's designed with a different type of protection circuitry, likely involving solid-state components rather than user-replaceable fuses. Therefore, if you're experiencing issues with your Fluke 376 FC, it's best to consult the manual or contact Fluke's customer support for troubleshooting or repair.

 

[zendriver]

Uni-T is a decent lower priced meter.

They do look like nice meters.

 

[Max]

So fuses are an exotic alien technology known only to Fluke?

Riiiiight.

Wish I had known that. I've revived more than one mid-market meter with a fresh fuse and a screwdriver. I even recall finding a handy spare fuse in one when I opened it up. Craftsman, I think, made by who-knows. But it was (and still is) a perfectly cromulent meter.

Many cheap meters do not have adequate protection or a CAT rating. There is a discussion of one here: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/darwin-award-dvm/

As you know, adequate protection is much more than just adding a fuse.

Many meters other than Fluke have CAT ratings that they actually conform to. A good example would be Klein. But others don’t. And Fluke consistently has good protection.

If I wanted a new DVM and didn’t want to buy a Fluke, I’d start with the reviews at eeVBlog. https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/multimeter-spreadsheet/

 

[zendriver]

Many cheap meters do not have adequate protection or a CAT rating. There is a discussion of one here: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/darwin-award-dvm/

As you know, adequate protection is much more than just adding a fuse.

Many meters other than Fluke have CAT ratings that they actually conform to. A good example would be Klein. But others don’t. And Fluke consistently has good protection.

If I wanted a new DVM and didn’t want to buy a Fluke, I’d start with the reviews at eeVBlog. https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/multimeter-spreadsheet/

This one says certified to cat iii

 

[Max]

Then you should be good:

Test equipment is rated with both a measurement category AND a voltage. The working voltage rating and the measurement category rating are both needed to determine if the test equipment will provide adequate protection for a given circuit.

The following table shows the overvoltage ratings for test equipment, based on category and working voltage. To determine the maximum overvoltage rating, find the row (CAT I/II/III/IV) that corresponds to the meter’s measurement category on the leftmost column, and then go across the row to find the column corresponding to the meter’s rated working voltage:

Working Voltage	150V	300V	600V	1000V
CAT I	800V	1500V	2500V	4000V
CAT II	1500V	2500V	4000V	6000V
CAT III	2500V	4000V	6000V	8000V
CAT IV	4000V	6000V	8000V	12000V

For instance, a meter rated CATIII, 300V can withstand an overvoltage of 4000V on a Category III circuit. As the rating suggests, it is suitable for CAT III circuits up to 300V working voltage. It is also rated as suitable for CAT II circuits up to 600V. It is not, however, suitable for use on CAT II circuits of 1000V, CAT III circuits over 300V, or any CAT IV circuits at all (despite the fact that it offers a 4000V overvoltage protection, which corresponds to a CAT IV circuit of 150V rated working voltage.

 

[pfbz]

For me, DC amps on the clamp is a must-have and the OP's meter is missing it...

 

[zendriver]

For me, DC amps on the clamp is a must-have and the OP's meter is missing it...

They make the model D that has that function $45

 

[Hohn]

I stick with Fluke for all my meters for one reason & one reason only: Excellent fusing. When I mess up and set it for amps and try to check voltage (c'mon...admit it: we've all done it), that fast-fuse blows instantly.

Ever seen a cheap meter hand grenade? I have. Not pretty. I had a co-worker wind up losing sight in one eye & bad burns all over his face. Yes, he had it set wrong, but it was a cheap un-fused meter.

As my dad used to say, "If you have a 5 dollar brain, buy a 5 dollar helmet". For me, it's Fluke & nothing but Fluke.

The Brymen I have has an excellent ceramic-lined fuses. It's CAT IV in a small form factor.

Here's an in-depth comparison of the Fluke vs Brymen.

 

[Hohn]

If I wanted a new DVM and didn’t want to buy a Fluke, I’d start with the reviews at eeVBlog. https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/multimeter-spreadsheet/

I started my research and ended there, too. EEVBLOG Brymen is well-sorted and affordable.

 

[Mr_B]

Looking to configure my gen to the house, now obsessed with "inrush" current, hertz, etc. to map out what's what.

Searching around, this seemed to pop up a lot and has quite a few YT reviews. Considered one from HF, but with the inrush capability, runs $90. name brand stuff even more. Went for it, seems pretty solid and well made. Nice solid probes and included thermocouple (it reads temps) Bright screen. Built in light not really all that, better maybe than nothing. Tested clamped amps (and inrush) with generator/garage juice and two different bench grinders. (FWIW) measures approximately the same as old HF DMM. Thermocouple reads ambient temps not further tested.

This is quick results from turning on and using auto mode.


It's $30 bucks. Not sure how it would hold up to daily (not as solid feeling as my 35 yo Fluke DMM) use, but seems pretty sturdy.

TESMEN TCM-300A Digital Clamp Meter 6000 Counts T-RMS multimeter Auto-Ranging Voltmeter ampmeter with AC Current AC/DC Voltage NCV/Live Wire Inrush Resistance Diode Temperature Continuity – BLUE

Multifunctional Smart Clamp Meter: The TCM-300A digital clamp meter features both smart and manual measurement modes, allowing for precise measurement of AC current, Capacitance, AC/DC voltage, NCV(non-contact voltage testing), Inrush, Live, Resistance, Diodes, Continuity, Frequency, and...

tesmen.com

How accurate does the amp clamp reading seem to be, does it fluctuate a lot or is pretty stable and fast reading .

 

[zendriver]

How accurate does the amp clamp reading seem to be, does it fluctuate a lot or is pretty stable and fast reading .

FWIW as far as accuracy it had the same readings as my cheapie harbor freight clamp, meter

As as far as fluctuation, I was just tested it off of a 1/3 and 1/2 Hp bench grinders neither meter seemed to fluctuate much at all

I’ve never really used a clamp meter before so I don’t have much to compare it to

Both were tested using generator and garage power

 

[PWC Repair]

Yeah, but this discussion is about a non intrusive clamp meter, you don't need to break the circuit or switch jacks to measure current.

Yes, but this is GJ.........first you have to open the panel with your $69 Snap-On non conductive screwdriver!!!!! LOL!!!!!

 

[Hohn]

FWIW as far as accuracy it had the same readings as my cheapie harbor freight clamp, meter

As as far as fluctuation, I was just tested it off of a 1/3 and 1/2 Hp bench grinders neither meter seemed to fluctuate much at all

I’ve never really used a clamp meter before so I don’t have much to compare it to

Both were tested using generator and garage power

did you make a break-out cord? Normal clamp meter on AC will not have a correct reading when the ground and hot at both inside the clamp. I learned the hard way.
I ended up just buying a pigtail extension cord and stripping off the outer insulation so I could clamp the individual wires within it. It's redneck but it works.

 

[zendriver]

did you make a break-out cord? Normal clamp meter on AC will not have a correct reading when the ground and hot at both inside the clamp. I learned the hard way.
I ended up just buying a pigtail extension cord and stripping off the outer insulation so I could clamp the individual wires within it. It's redneck but it works.

In a roundabout way

I have a well used extension cord that the sheathing has departed about 4 inches away from the plug leaving the three wires right out there

 

[pfbz]

If I wanted a new DVM and didn’t want to buy a Fluke, I’d start with the reviews at eeVBlog. https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/multimeter-spreadsheet/

Holy **** that is a lot of data to sort through!

The reality for me is that my DVM use-cases are largely automotive with some very occasional 120V quick checks and once in a blue moon checking a 240V circuit, so most of those meters are "overkill" (pun only slightly intended). Yes, I keep a few flukes around if i need to play with high voltage stuff, but this $30 import meter works great for everything else...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CJ2KTSQM?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Max]

Holy **** that is a lot of data to sort through!

The reality for me is that my DVM use-cases are largely automotive with some very occasional 120V quick checks and once in a blue moon checking a 240V circuit, so most of those meters are "overkill" (pun only slightly intended). Yes, I keep a few flukes around if i need to play with high voltage stuff, but this $30 import meter works great for everything else...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CJ2KTSQM?tag=atomicindus08-20

Sure - for 12V or 24V, use whatever meter you like. But as the voltage and currents get higher the CAT ratings get more critical.

For the meter you linked to there is absolutely zero reference to any CAT ratings. I wouldn’t be worried about using the clamp to measure current or to use the probes at lower voltages. But I personally would not use that meter for 120V or 240V. YMMV.

 

[NateChill]

Brymen and used Fluke 115 seem like solid choices！

 

[Crazyjake8493]

Electrical test equipment is one area that you don't cheap out. Avoid Harbor Freight and Amazon-Chinese products. Get a Fluke, Fieldpiece, Klein, etc.

 

[Shoreline_]

Afaik circuit breakers have a really long heating time. Too long to safely interrupt inductive loads. Its why its better to have fuses or overloads closer to the appliance than relying on the main breaker to interrupt an over current situation. Thus if youre worried about protecting inrush circuits, you can get the correct slow blow fuse. So.. checking inrush current is pointless if you can't protect it in your circuit

 

[zendriver]

Afaik circuit breakers have a really long heating time. Too long to safely interrupt inductive loads. Its why its better to have fuses or overloads closer to the appliance than relying on the main breaker to interrupt an over current situation. Thus if youre worried about protecting inrush circuits, you can get the correct slow blow fuse. So.. checking inrush current is pointless if you can't protect it in your circuit

Good points.

I was just curious on what I was having in regards to hooking up to a generator.

Measured 20.5A starting a 1/2 hp old bench grinder. Didn’t seem to phase the 15A breaker of the generator.

I suspect the well pump might be all right as well since it’s oddly not popping the panel breaker it’s attached to. Have not measured it yet, but I will . Just collecting some measurements based by suggestion from others so I’m glad I didn’t waste my money on expensive test equipment..

It seems like a nice meter anyway.

 

[Shoreline_]

Good points.

I was just curious on what I was having in regards to hooking up to a generator.

Measured 20.5A starting a 1/2 hp old bench grinder. Didn’t seem to phase the 15A breaker of the generator.

I suspect the well pump might be all right as well since it’s oddly not popping the panel breaker it’s attached to. Have not measured it yet, but I will . Just collecting some measurements based by suggestion from others so I’m glad I didn’t waste my money on expensive test equipment..

It seems like a nice meter anyway.

Yea for sure. I got a lot of stuff people used to make fun of me for having as it was "overkill" - like I had a 25mhz oscilloscope. But I could work my way around a scope way before the automotive world realized how crucial they are. So being ahead of the curve was nice.