Air compressor creep...

[Jim Dawson]

I have a two stage, 80 gallon air compressor that is mounted to the pallet it shipped on. At my old house the thing was sitting between the wall and stairs and didn't move. Now, in my new garage it moves across the floor when running. I put rubber anti-vibration pads under the corners but it didn't help.

I'm trying to avoid drilling the floor if possible. Does anyone have any suggestions to tame this beast?

 

[sberry]

Tie it to the wall with a bungee cord.

 

[Chevy-SS]

Sounds like the floor is very smooth. If you are dead-set against drilling floor, then how about epoxying the rubber pads to the floor, the set compressor on the pads, and I'm guessing that would solve the issue.

-

 

[cj7jeep81]

Maybe buy a piece of rubber horse stall mat (like from Rural King/Tractor Supply/etc). Might be tacky enough to hold it.

 

[zmotorsports]

Personally, I would remove it from the pallet and place it on rubber anti-vibration pads. My thinking is that the pallet can acutally creat some movement because of the flex of the boards. I saw that at work once when we had a loaner compressor from another department while rebuilding our main shop one.

I have my 60-gallon dual stage Quincy just sitting on three of them and it hasn't moved at all in 20 years now. I too didn't want to drill into the concrete if I didn't have to. I figured if it ever moved I would drill but no movement in 20 years.

Mike.

 

[Jim Dawson]

Thanks for the suggestions. I agree that removing it from the pallet is the first step. Then I'll try putting the pads I already have under it.

 

[woodzy]

Mine is still on the pallet sitting on an side of a car tire. It has been there for 16 years and have not moved a bit.

 

[mike93lx]

Maybe buy a piece of rubber horse stall mat (like from Rural King/Tractor Supply/etc). Might be tacky enough to hold it.

Aside from mounting it to the floor, this was my first thought.

If you don't want to drill holes, how about mounting it to a couple PT 2x4's or PT Plywood and using a construction adhesive to stick it to the floor?

 

[majerus]

I would suggest a moble base, it worked well for my compressor.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Heavy-Duty-Mobile-Base/D2057A

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=213845

 

[HAP]

If you buy a compressor new, one of the biggest notes attached to it is "Do Not Operate While Still Attached to the Pallet."

Wether you agree with it or not, most/all have this notice...

 

[Cyberbear]

You could try something a little different. Form up a base made of concrete and then put your vibration absorbing mounting pads into the concrete, plus you'll probably never worry about it accidentally tipping over, and it's still portable. Try using 1 x 4 lumber for the mold sides, square or octagon, and put plastic underneath when you pour it. Before pouring add a little wire mesh if you want, and scratch in your initials and date for fun. When dry, give it a little rattle can paint. Use your imagination and be creative.

 

[jhelrey]

Leash it to the wall!

 

[Jim Dawson]

I see that I'm not the first to have this problem. A lot of options to try.

 

[Jim Dawson]

Leash it to the wall!

That certainly would be the easiest.

 

[James-W]

Maybe you could just buy a heavy rubber mat and using carriage bolts attach the mat to the bottom of the compressor. Then, using a real strong glue, attach the mat corners to the floor.

 

[James-W]

That certainly would be the easiest.

True, but it MAY cause the wall to vibrate.

 

[AJ1978]

Rubber vibration pads work great. I can add this from my recent Saylor Beall purchase.
They sold me the vibration pads and pre cut and drilled 1/8" Steel plates this is so the feet of the compressor don't cut the pads. I did not drill them into the floor but here is what I did do:
Drill hole in center of vibration pad Read below before drilling
Push a Nut Sert, or Rivet Nut in the hole I used 5/16-18 threads
Have a helper to set the pads and plates
Run a bolt with washer into the hole. Don't have to tighten much just enough to hold together.
Compressor will not move.

I used this nut sert idea on my house compressor 5 hp 80 gal champion 10 years ago and does not move.

 

[iagsxr]

I have a 60 gallon upright at my car wash that I mounted on 4×4s to get up off the floor and to make it easier to get to the drain.

It moved around a little till it found a home. I used to move it back until it dawned on me that it never moved farther than it was. It's been sitting where it is a couple years, about 4" from where it started.

My point is, if it doesn't have to be exactly where you placed it it may move a bit initially then find a spot and stay there.

 

[sberry]

I put a sheet metal clip and a tapcon or dowel in the floor on one. Very minor. As far a I can see some wood under them is as good as any of the other schemes I have seen. I used simple 4x6 on side and 2x6 across to catch feet and wide enough to fit a pallet jack It left 8 inches under.
Ok, was wrong,,, all 4x6 and that may have been pieces I found so the length was what it was. The blue one is my back up and for hi demand. That one never moved. The breaker is off.
My main is 46 yrs old or so and in the last year had to bearing the motor and a cap took a dump. It had 1 odd bearing and an odd cap, we didn't stock them, the motor guy had 1. I should have pulled the cap cover when I did a brg, don't know why I didn't.
It was a busy spot and had simply reached over and flipped switches and we had air again till we scored parts.
I don't have to interrupt the service to remove one.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I put a sheet metal clip and a tapcon or dowel in the floor on one. Very minor.

I was going suggest a couple of Tapcons also. Small hole 3/16" or 1/4" and won't be real noticeable if you had to remove them and fill with some Sikaflex or Clear RTV. That small hole is quite different than a 3/8" or 1/2" anchor.

Whatever you do, I hope you get your issue solved.

 

[Kevin54]

Pieces of conveyor belt, section of rubber tires, pieces of stall mat all should work. Cut three or four pieces (one for each leg) and set the compressor on those, on the floor, and get rid of the skid. I have the honeycomb rubber that is glued on each side to a piece of 1/4" OSB, and my IR/80 has never moved. As a matter of fact, I have to kick the pads to get them to come off of the floor after they have been sitting a while. The pads can be bought through McMaster-Carr and places like Enco should also carry them. But I'd go for the small pieces of rubber first.

 

[sberry]

I put a sheet metal clip and a tapcon or dowel in the floor on one. Very minor. As far a I can see some wood under them is as good as any of the other schemes I have seen. I used simple 4x6 on side and 2x6 across to catch feet and wide enough to fit a pallet jack It left 8 inches under.
Ok, was wrong,,, all 4x6 and that may have been pieces I found so the length was what it was. The blue one is my back up and for hi demand. That one never moved. The breaker is off.
My main is 46 yrs old or so and in the last year had to bearing the motor and a cap took a dump. It had 1 odd bearing and an odd cap, we didn't stock them, the motor guy had 1. I should have pulled the cap cover when I did a brg, don't know why I didn't.
It was a busy spot and had simply reached over and flipped switches and we had air again till we scored parts.
I don't have to interrupt the service to remove one.

 

[sberry]

What does it say in the instruction manual about mounting it? I bet it calls for bolted down to concrete.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

I have a Crafstman oiless horizontal than unit I took the wheels off of. It sits on the classic rubber/cork/rubber sandwich pads. Doesn't move. For a vertical unit, something like the second item down from the top works well:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-vibration-control-levelers/=zzqk59

Tommy

 

[Jim Dawson]

What does it say in the instruction manual about mounting it? I bet it calls for bolted down to concrete.

Of course it says that but as I stated in the original post, I'm trying to avoid drilling into the concrete floor.

 

[FTG-05]

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Secure-Your-Water-Heater-Against-an-Earthqu/

www.seismic.ca.gov/HOG/waterheaterbracing_08-11-04.pdf

http://www.earthquakecountry.org/step1/waterheater.html

Add rubber to insulate the wall against vibrations as needed.

good luck!

 

[sberry]

Of course it says that but as I stated in the original post, I'm trying to avoid drilling into the concrete floor.

I really wasn't referring to you but wondering when it became a necessity to comb the planet for special feet for these?

 

[TMcCay]

I went to a local farm supply store and they sell stable mat off of a roll by the foot. I bought enough for a couple of projects and place a piece that I cut under my 60 gallon Quincy and it has yet to move. If I remember it was like $7 a foot. Money well spent.

 

[redmondjp]

Here is a simple, inexpensive solution: Leave compressor on the pallet. Get a helper to tip the compressor slightly, so somebody can lay down a piece of that rubberized shelf/toolbox liner on the floor underneath half the pallet. Then repeat for the other side. Done. Should cost about $3 for the rubber material. It's simple, cheap, and effective.

My 60 gallon compressor has been on its pallet since I bought it in 1990.

 

[Jim Dawson]

I bought a stable mat today from Tractor Supply. Should I remove the compressor from the pallet or put the whole mess on the mat? Also, how in the hell do I lift the compressor up to get the mat under it?

 

[redmondjp]

I bought a stable mat today from Tractor Supply. Should I remove the compressor from the pallet or put the whole mess on the mat? Also, how in the hell do I lift the compressor up to get the mat under it?

Leave it on the pallet. Cut mat into two pieces. Tip compressor up slightly one way and then to the other, and slip piece of the mat under each side of the pallet. Done.

 

[Jim Dawson]

Leave it on the pallet. Cut mat into two pieces. Tip compressor up slightly one way and then to the other, and slip piece of the mat under each side of the pallet. Done.

Thanks, I'll give that a try.

 

[Jim Dawson]

Leave it on the pallet. Cut mat into two pieces. Tip compressor up slightly one way and then to the other, and slip piece of the mat under each side of the pallet. Done.

I did exactly as you said and it appears to have fixed it. Thanks to everyone for all the suggestions.

I also put a ball valve on the drain line, much better.

 

[langss]

I bought a stable mat today from Tractor Supply. Should I remove the compressor from the pallet or put the whole mess on the mat? Also, how in the hell do I lift the compressor up to get the mat under it?

I found an Engine Hoist works out well.

 

[RayBob58]

Now, in my new garage it moves across the floor when running.

Turn it around and let it walk itself into the corner?

 

[jimindm]

We have season tickets to a junior hockey team here in town. We must have a hundred of their practice pucks that we have found near our seats.

I have used them many times for such things as this. They are a 3 inch round, by an inch thick, piece of vulcanized rubber. Very cheap to buy.

 

[gilwest]

The thick horse stall mat works perfect. I used a hole saw to cut 4 nice little pucks out. Works like a charm.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Jim Dawson]

Well, I spoke too soon, the mat didn't work after all. Today the compressor moved itself about 2 inches counter-clockwise.

 

[edsauto]

Just take a couple pieces of ratchet strap material, attach it to two of the feet, now just screw the two ends into the sill plate at the bottom of the wall.

There will be no vibration transferred through the strapping. It will not take much to just hold it in place.

Should be simple. Plain rope would be fine also.

Dan....

 

[2CRUZ]

It's not that big of a deal. I left my 80 gal. on the shipping pallet and just cut three pieces of plumbers tape and screw them to the bottom of the wall studs. It hasn't moved in two years.