Air Compressor Filter Sizing

[Vette10R]

Sorry to but I have been searching and reading on here and am coming up with more questions than answers. I recently got a 60 gallon compressor and would like to put the correct filters on. I'm ready to order whatever I need so I can get it installed asap so if you guys could help me design what I need that would be great!

The compressor has a max psi of 155 and there is a 3/4" outlet to connect to. So I understand that I need to run piping at least 25 feet from the compressor before I ad the filters. Do I run 3/4" pipe from the compressor to the filter? Then should I reduce to 1/2" or 3/8 filters? The hose reel that I have is 3/8 but I'm not sure if I should keep the line as large as possible up to it?

As far as brands it sounds like Wilkerson or Norgren are good brands to go with? Are new filters easy to obtain and replace as they get old and used? And do I want an auto drain or manual drain? I live in Minnesota so it gets cols here and my garage is only heated when I am out there so I don't need it freezing and getting damaged.

My main use is impacts, ratchets, air gun. I have never painted but may try a little in the future. What would you guys order if you were me? I'm sitting here with my credit card

 

[matt_i]

A cyclonic filter isn't a filter you expect to change elements in. It creates a swirling vortex with the air (using stationary fins) and the water being significantly heavier, will find itself stuck to the inside of the bowl. In other words it cannot stay inside the vortex and gets throw tangentially out.

An auto-drain on the above doesn't drain every single drop of water out. It takes some liquid level before the spring-balance can be tripped and the water will then get dumped. As such its not maintenance-free for a freezing environment. I would go for a manual drain, OR, pipe the drain into a piece of airline tubing, 10-12mm, something pliable, and cap it with a "push in fitting" cap or valve. This way there is a a place to store the liquid which won't fracture the bowl. I would keep the tank ball valve "off" or throw the breaker to "off" when you leave the shop. In case there was to be a problem with a burst line, you really don't want the compressor running until you come back to find it. The electric power utility will probably not care too much tho

 

[sberry]

In this type of garage would get a couple or 3 pieces of 1/2 black pipe. Reduce to 1/2 at the comp, add a ****** and ball valve, then hose barbs with a chunk of 1/2 air hose to the black for a simple manifold to a filter, followed with reg to a 3/8 hose reel

 

[sberry]

The reason many units came with a siphon tube drain was freezing. Most had a common petcock or plug on the bottom and a valve up top to the tube which certainly didn't get all the water out but simply laid there.
If there was no sump it could fill right up with ice a quite a ways before it would damage the tank.

 

[stonesfan68]

I presume that you have a 5HP compressor that delivers 15-20 CFM. I'd run 3/4" piping and reduce to 1/2-inch or 3/8-inch as needed at the hose reel or filter/regulator. You should order a separate 1/2-inch filter and regulator, or a "combo" unit. Wilkerson, Aro or Norgren are excellent brands. I'd personally skip the auto drain on these little units.

 

[mikhett]

I have used a SHARPE F88 on my 60 gallon 2 stage and I paint regularly.Never any moisture problems.I changed the filter after 8 years.

 

[Vette10R]

I have this unit here, its 11.5 cfm at 90 psi

http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/porter-cable-stationary-belt-drive-air-compressor-60-gal

 

[Vette10R]

In this type of garage would get a couple or 3 pieces of 1/2 black pipe. Reduce to 1/2 at the comp, add a ****** and ball valve, then hose barbs with a chunk of 1/2 air hose to the black for a simple manifold to a filter, followed with reg to a 3/8 hose reel

So I don't need to be 25 ft. from the compressor before I ad the filter?

 

[Finky198]

+1 on the Sharpe F88 works great little to no water in our lines...

They make very nice suff alot used in pro painting thats how I heard about body shop friend gave us a list of options cant remember Devillbliss or somthing like that is another decent one.

and to above if you have steel pipe and the span to do the run you could also double back if not but in my opinion rigid metal pipe is the best as it cools, removes water and stores volume. All of which are benificial to an Air system. u can use Hydraulic hose from TC as you seem to have on close connect the to you riser then to your span of pipe or 2 with a 6"-8' slope across aprox 25' span and a dip leg at the 2 lowest point IE the Tank drain and the other right before your Regulator/ Filter. then run you hose from there

A proper setup will last you a lifetime... But will the compressor? Just kidding Best of luck

 

[gnpenning]

As mentioned run the steel pipe with slope with drains first. Check out TP website they have some pictures and great info.

 

[sberry]

The TP drawings I have seen are more for plant design than small garage. The more pipe one has the more it will cool, not a law though.

 

[Finky198]

hey Sberry hows the Air compressor project coming along???

 

[Vegaman_Dan]

I've recently upgraded my air drying setup by adding an intercooler made from an AC condenser from a Chevy Suburban. It's as large as a normal radiator and does a great job. It's plumbed from the compressor head to the intercooler and then to the tank itself. The temperature at the top of the radiator is 250F+, but it drops to 80F at the bottom outlet, meaning I'm getting nearly room temperature air going into the tank and that helps a lot with getting the moisture out of the air and to the bottom of the tank where it can drain.

From there it goes to a filter and regulator. It then goes to 30 feet of copper tubing on the wall with three drain legs and a second filter. Then it gets distributed to the garage system. For painting, I still have a water trap on the end of the hose, but already I've seen only a tiny amount of moisture in the trap after several hours of use. It's not 100% moisture free, but I'd say it's now around 90%.

I may yet invest in a commercial air dryer, but those are just small refrigeration units with coils and drains on them to produce the dry air. I'm getting closer and closer to ideal with more time and progress.

 

[Vette10R]

What micron filters should I use? I see 5 micron, 40 micron .01 micron etc...

 

[Finky198]

I would say 40 micron is pretty general purpose filter. IF you plan on painting or plasma cutting then 5 or lower depending on how crazy you want to get...


I'd go with 5 micron and your pretty much cover for most tasks including avg painting.

The other route is to filter you main line to let say 40 or 5 depending on you usage and then get a secondary filter if you really plan on pro painting and so forth.


Make sure you have a water separator first, then your filter, and last but not least a Regulator.



? to Vegaman_Dan I have to question this hole idea. I have read and even participated
in the conversation regarding all of the "inter,after,and other cooler concepts".... ,but what I am not understanding is that after all of the extra plumbing your still getting water in the system (even though it may not be alot) it seem way over complicated for the end Result.

what type of water seperator and filters are u using??


In comparison our system a 7.5hp 80gal + 40gal with a 4' Riser to a 20' run 1" black main line sloped with 1 drip leg and a sharpe F88 (5 micron) and I get the less the an 1oz of water per week around (15-25hr of run time) out of the drip leg and filter combined we get nothing at the hose end.

So I understand the science behind it all but it really does't seem practical that your still getting water after all of that time and effort you've put in to your system...

maybe you can Teach me somthing new idk Rant over...sry for the Thread jacking

 

[sberry]

I use 2 simple filters in series for paint. I do the same for plasma.
My air is done. Anywhere I left old occasional rubber or equipment on I put a valve ahead of it. One of the orange hoses in the pic above goes around to connect to another 1/2 secondary manifold, goes to the hoist drops and to the paint booth. The little F/R is for paint guns.
You can see a little drip leg valve on the bottom, never any water at that point and I have a valve preceding this. I used it once in the last month, I turn it all off.
I had the tool and service air reel in another sopt till recently, saved me 60 ft of difficult pipe to move where both reels use it and it works just as well or better anyway. Let me change a circuit from70 for one part and 120 for another I rarely used to 40 for both and install the pipe at a level a guy can reach it.

 

[sberry]

Here is a pic when the first thing I did was move the reel then took everything out, added the locker seen in earlier pic and one can faintly see the paper machine under a rag, cut down and reman to fit under bench.
I really hadn't used the trash can in 10 yrs, none of that stuff was needed that couldn't be stuck in locker, was all repurposed elsewhere. Point was I guess that I havnt added a lot of special equipment and havnt been getting water. I have a receiver I made from 100# LP bottle where 2 comps to input and go out to my manifold.
I have 2 comps but use one, 3 tanks for about 200 gallons. I use 3 hp 2 stage. It gives predictable charge up time if I am on my toes can sand a long time, never got to wait or am well done with common tasks that I have the breaker off to my demand and backup unit.
This pic was early on, since been plumbed some and had drains added. Different sound protection but if I was going to do it again would fix up a blanketed room.
In most cases its not an issue but I did have some real restriction for big air guns in my system.

 

[Finky198]

Cool set up but sry I was confusing you with someone else...

 

[sberry]

No deal, I understand. Gives me a chance to show old pictures. I might figure out how to get a good all in one shot of what it looks like now as the semi finished system.

 

[Vette10R]

Ok I'm looking at Milton filters right now, I'm not seeing a water separator? Or is the filter a water separator? I'm a little confused still. Also it looks like they are auto drain, can I still manually drain it if needed? Then would I just need a regulator after the filter and I'm good? Sorry for the dumb questions I just want to make sure I order the right filters...

 

[Vette10R]

Would this be a good kit to buy? I added up all the fittings and valves and it comes to $62.75 before tax at my Home Depot so that would make the water separator and regulator around $72.25

http://www.tptools.com/Water-Separator-and-Regulator-Piping-Kit,7428.html?b=d*8092

 

[sberry]

That drawing is really part of a larger system. i didnt even put a drip in the blue one you see in one of my pics. The pipe is basically level and drops in to separator. There really needs flow beyond with those factory setups to drive condensate to a drip leg.

 

[Vette10R]

I think I am going to grab this for a start then get all the plumbing done. This should at least give me some piece of mind...

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_41031_41031